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Hunting & Fishing 10' fishing kayaks?

FUNCTIONAL

Dirty Civilian
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Feb 19, 2012
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    Eastern, NC
    Been toying with picking up a fishing kayak for some of the smaller bodies of water, quick trips and something to take camping (not kayak camping). Fresh water fishing, no salt.

    10' simply for weight and not having to pick up any type of rack, just throw it in the truck bed and go.

    Kind narrowed it down to these three in this order but open to suggestions.

    Feelfree lure 10v2
    Feelfree moken 10 v2
    Pelican catch 100

    Thre only attractive part about the lure over the moken is thre better seat. I don't mind the FF ready consol but there are other ways to skin that cat. Is the cost increase worth it from moken to lure? I like the rudder ready of both the feelfrees over the pelican.

    If anyone has used these especially against eachother please weigh in.
     
    bonafide here. Very stable, heavy but manageable. Tracks good, for a wide, stable platform. $$$. Really comfortable for long days on the water. Just throwing out another option, no experience with the ones listed, sorry.
     
    I have a jackson coosa hd. Allows for standing which allows me to double it as a paddle board. Makes for targeting fish easy
     
    I am not familiar with the models that you posted, but....What size are you? Weight and height. The extra 2' can make a big difference if you are on the larger side, but it is really the width of the kayak that adds stability.
    Also, what size is your truck bed? I have a 12' Perception Pescador, and I have no trouble transporting my kayak, or my buddies 14' jackson cuda with the tailgate down, and a couple of lashing straps. Note of caution here, you are better off using lashing straps than ratchet straps so that you don't overstress the hull and crack it. You can use ratchet straps, but go easy on them.
    I fish the Columbia River in for white sturgeon, and I am 6'1" and about 230 lbs so I really appreciate the stability of a larger kayak. I would recommend getting a model with an accessory rail so that you can easily mount anything you decide you need later, like pole holders in a different location, or a shotgun mount if you take to hunting ducks in it.
    Also something with lawn chair seating makes it a bit easier to stand without tipping when you are on the water. A strap tied to the bow of the boat to pull on as you stand makes this easier as well.
     
    If you are serious about kayak fishing I can almost guarantee you will regret a 10' yak. I'd look at the 12' options. A hitch mounted bed extender is cheap and will allow you to haul just about anything yak wise. The Pelican is trash. Their higher end models are decent started yaks but would still avoid 'em if you can. The Feel Free yaks are good, generally heavier than similar boats from other makers. Look at Jackson and Native for other options. If you have the budget, the Hobie Compass or Outback.
     
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    I am not familiar with the models that you posted, but....What size are you? Weight and height. The extra 2' can make a big difference if you are on the larger side, but it is really the width of the kayak that adds stability.
    Also, what size is your truck bed? I have a 12' Perception Pescador, and I have no trouble transporting my kayak, or my buddies 14' jackson cuda with the tailgate down, and a couple of lashing straps. Note of caution here, you are better off using lashing straps than ratchet straps so that you don't overstress the hull and crack it. You can use ratchet straps, but go easy on them.
    I fish the Columbia River in for white sturgeon, and I am 6'1" and about 230 lbs so I really appreciate the stability of a larger kayak. I would recommend getting a model with an accessory rail so that you can easily mount anything you decide you need later, like pole holders in a different location, or a shotgun mount if you take to hunting ducks in it.
    Also something with lawn chair seating makes it a bit easier to stand without tipping when you are on the water. A strap tied to the bow of the boat to pull on as you stand makes this easier as well.

    Im 5'7 and 160lbs (hopefully this will get me to drop some too). My truck bed is 5.5' (crewmax tundra). With even a 12' I'm looking at over half out the ass end. With long drives to yankee land in ny to visit the inlaws im also trying to keep it to 10' so i can strap it to the top of my bed cover (diamondback) and not over the roof for some low backroad bridges.

    I was looking for the accessory rail in my search which the lure and moken have. Im fairly handy and can likely mount what's needed to the pelican but at the price the pelican almost isn't worth it over the moken.

    As far as budget the Lure 10 is about at the top of what i wanted to spend. After a decent paddle and other little shit for it i know it can add up quick. I will look at those other brands harder though.
     
    At your height and weight you can probably be pretty comfortable in a 10' yak. Where you will see a real advantage to the longer kayak is in tracking when you are making a long paddle. The longer the kayak, the easier it is to paddle straight. Stability comes in large part from the width of the kayak. But the wider it is while being short, the greater tendency it will have to turn while paddling, especially paddling against current or wind. Naturally a wider kayak is also less hydrodynamic, meaning you have to paddle harder to get where you want to go. On small bodies of water that isn't a real big deal.

    In your original post, you said you would be fishing smaller bodies of water. I think what your definition of small, how long you will use it for at a time, and how often you will use it will determine your length. If smaller bodies of water means bass fishing 5-10 acre lakes or floating down a small river to a take out vehicle 5 times a year, then you will probably be happy with a relatively wide 10' kayak. You can save some money and storage space, and still get out and have some fun. If you are hitting larger reservoirs or paddling up a river to float/fish down river, and doing so for a full day at a time, and doing so every weekend then the benefits of a 12' would be noticed. As one1bravo said, if you get serious you will want at least a 12'. Trailer hitch bed extenders are not too expensive.

    If your lady likes to fish, but only occasionally, then buying a 10' boat to get your feet wet, and figure out what you really want out of a boat isn't a bad idea. In a year you could buy the bigger boat you want, and have the 10' for her to go out with you.

    You don't need to go too crazy for a paddle. I have an Aquabond I bought on sale for $75 (5 years ago). I am sure there are competing brands that will also serve your purpose and you may be able to get for cheaper. When you start to get much above the $100 price point you start paying a lot to get a reduction in paddle weight. If you are paddling for long lengths of time, then the weight makes a difference. If you are mostly fishing, and only doing so for 3-4 hours at a time, then the more expensive paddles are hard to justify. My fishing buddy upgraded to a Hobie, and I used his $400-$500 Werner a few times. It was definitely nicer, but for what I do, I cannot justify that extra coin. On the subject of paddles, a paddle that is slightly too long is generally better than a paddle that is slightly too short.

    As one1bravo said, the Hobies are where it is at for fishing from a kayak. It is amazing how much faster they are with the foot pedal, plus you can move while you fish. They are also very stable. There is no way I am spending that money at this point in my life though. The Hobie kayaks are also heavy as sin.

    The nice thing about an accessory rail is that you can move the accessory around if a fishing buddy, in-law or ladyfriend hops in to take it out for a spin. I also move my pole holder position a fair bit when I change fishing styles. If I am trolling a lure I like my pole holders in a different spot than if I am anchored up bait fishing. When you mount front pole holders or something of the like they are semi-permanent in their placement. If I destroyed my kayak tomorrow, the two hard requirements I would have would be an accessory rail, and a lawn chair/raised type seat with ample back support.

    You will also probably want to install an anchor trolly at some point. Even if you aren't fishing in current, the anchor is nice for keeping wind from blowing you around on small lakes. The anchor trolly makes it so that you can move the anchor point up and down the boat to position it where you want it and for easily retrieving the anchor. It is also a good diy project.

    Best of luck on getting what you want.
     
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    Been looking at the Vibe Sea Ghost 110. Comes with rudder, great storage, decent seat, good price.

    Will I notice a difference in paddling between the 11 and 10' yaks? Really cannot go 12'...just measured with my truck and its going to be a long ass package sticking out the back...extender or not.
     
    I'm using an Ascend H10 hybrid kayak. Kinda like a kayak sized canoe. It's pretty stable and paddles well.
     
    Been looking at the Vibe Sea Ghost 110. Comes with rudder, great storage, decent seat, good price.

    Will I notice a difference in paddling between the 11 and 10' yaks? Really cannot go 12'...just measured with my truck and its going to be a long ass package sticking out the back...extender or not.
    Vibe has decent reviews and seem to be a pretty good value.

    You can haul it just fine with an extender, I promise. I hauled a 14' Pro Angler in a 5' bed Chevy Colorado. I would buy as much boat as you can afford versus getting a starter boat and having to upgrade, used would be better to be able to recoup most or all of your cost if you decide you don't like it. If any dealers near you do demo days (not likely at the moment with the way things are right now) I suggest attending and getting in everything they will let you.
     
    IMO look at short aluminum canoes as well. You can find 12’ canoes that weigh about 50 lbs and are super durable. You can carry more than a kayak as well.
     
    Ive done several Boundary Waters trips in my 12' Old Town Dirigo with lots of time spent fishing. I've kept my eyes on all the kayaks I see at the big box stores and they just don't compare. Mines over 10 years old so I can't say with how they are made now, but their Vapor 10' weighs 47lbs and is pretty open for landing fish I looks like.
     
    For anyone wondering how this turned out....

    I have a Bonafide RS117 in Venom on the way and snagged a Perception Rambler 9.5 for the wife in seafoam.
     
    We have Perception Rambler 9.5's here and love them. $250 each at REI on sale. Great value at that price. No frills but don't need them in some things. I think Perception makes some fishing kayaks that are pretty good.
     
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    We have Perception Rambler 9.5's here and love them. $250 each at REI on sale. Great value at that price. No frills but don't need them in some things. I think Perception makes some fishing kayaks that are pretty good.

    Yup, on sale at great outdoor provision here in NC. Shell get to test it out before we commit 100% but im sold on the RS117 on my end.

    Can you stand at all in the Rambler?
     
    Keep your eye out for a Hobie fishcat also. They are a lot more stable than some of the kayaks.
    Screenshot_20200505-165447~2.png
     
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    Oh wow there's a bunch of great information here! I've also been toying with the idea of a fishing Kayak and quite frankly there are so many options but I think I've narrowed down my choice to a Big Fish 120. In regards to PFD however, I'm at a loss. I'd be really interested in suggestions for PFD with the main key feature being safety!
    thanks
     
    I wanted one and actually looked into buying one. The thing is I live in Hawaii and with my luck I’d end up stranded in the middle of the Pacific Ocean lost.
    I would need all the emergency rescue gear, gps, sat phone, and after adding everything up it was very expensive.
    so now I’ve settled with buying fish from the grocery store.
    Funny thing was my wife was all for me doing it, knowing fully the great luck that I have. That and the extra life insurance policy she took out on me made me think twice.
     
    not sure where you live, but if theres any chance of hitting the ocean i would go 12 ft or longer. i run a 12 and a 15 in the ocean. the 15 ft i can put my rods in the hull for beach landings.
     
    not sure where you live, but if theres any chance of hitting the ocean i would go 12 ft or longer. i run a 12 and a 15 in the ocean. the 15 ft i can put my rods in the hull for beach landings.
    Im about 20 min from some of the inland fingers in eastern NC but will be moving to northern Raleigh shortly. 99.9% freshwater and id be suprised if i did any salt water with this. 11.7 seemed thre best compromise between what i wanted to fit in my truck and what's "ideal" for kayak fishing. If i need more than this ill just launch the Tracker.
     
    You should have a blast in that thing. Congratulations on making a decision and getting delivery. Now it is time to get some line wet.

    Thanks bud! Im stubborn but i think i took a lot of the advice here. I do plan on spending quite a bit of time in this thing and although really not expensive for a kayak "splurged" for this one. The guy also gave me a really good deal (well under 200) on a carbon fiber adjustable length paddle. I was suprised how much of a difference a few ounces makes in a paddle.

    Anchor trolley and fish finder are on the list already.

    Wife is going out to family until wednesday so im going to get a lot of time on this to see how she goes!
     
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    A couple tips for your anchor. There are a lot of anchor trolley diy videos out there. I won't claim to be able to instruct you how to set it up better than the youtube videos. You can save a little bit of money by collecting the pieces from the hardware store yourself but there are also kits out there.

    Most kayak anchors come with the rope attached to the top of the anchor. Depending on what environments you anchor in, it can be extremely beneficial to connect the rope to the bottom of the anchor, run the rope along the shaft of the anchor and then zip tie the rope to the connection point at the top. This allows the rope to pull on the anchor from the top so that it still digs into the bottom, but if you get an anchor claw stuck under a log or large rock then when you pull the zip tie will break and allow you to pull the anchor from the opposite direction. Pulling from the bottom, the claws will naturally fold in when you pull and be less likely the catch on things/release from whatever it is caught on. I keep a stash of 50 lb break strength zip ties in my kayak to replace the broken zip ties. It doesn't happen often, but I do occasionally get my anchor stuck under a boulder, and I am glad that I have a break away zip tie. I am able to hold in current on the Columbia River with the 50 lb break strength, I would not go with any heavier break strength. If you only fish small gravel and mud bottom lakes this probably won't be an issue for you.

    Buy a float for the end of your anchor rope. It doesn't have to be large, but if for some reason you need to drop anchor in a hurry, you want to leave a spot and come back to the exact same location or if you accidentally drop the anchor over board without having it tied off, then the float is nice to have.

    Buy a pack of cheap paddle leashes off the net for anything that does not float and you do not wish to drop in the drink. Ironically enough I almost never have one on my paddle, but I do keep them attached to poles that I am not actively fishing, and the milk crate full of gear that sits behind me.

    With respect to the fish finder. I am not telling you not to get one, but I would fish the kayak a few times to figure out if you really want one. I have a Fish Hunter 3d, and I bought it and thought I would use it a lot, but I rarely use it. Not because there is a huge issue with it, just because I find that it is more trouble than it is worth most of the time.
     
    With respect to the fish finder. I am not telling you not to get one, but I would fish the kayak a few times to figure out if you really want one. I have a Fish Hunter 3d, and I bought it and thought I would use it a lot, but I rarely use it. Not because there is a huge issue with it, just because I find that it is more trouble than it is worth most of the time.

    Excellent tips on the anchor and zip ties. I was just going to do a small cement cylinder since i assumed i couldn't crank on a stuck anchor like a normal boat. I like your idea much better.

    As for the finder im mostly getting it for depth and the gps/mapping part. The Garmin Strike Plus has some nice features that map lake bottoms and you can drop pins to mark spots. Ive never used a fish finder to find fish... just contours/depth.
     
    Make sure you practice drills getting in it if for some reason you end up falling in/flipping it. And look up how to add some flotation to important things like rods and whatnot....don’t want a $200+ outfit going to Davy Jones locker cuz of some bonehead boaters of a sudden squal
     
    Nothing wrong with a cement cylinder if you choose to go that route.

    The zip ties on the anchor is a nice trick I learned after moving to the Northwest. I use it on my motorboat as well, but you bump the zip tie weight up to 150-200 lb break strength. If we have a decent amount of anchor line out when motorboat fishing we pull the line with an anchor ball and an anchor lift. Not hard to break the zip tie if you still have the line tied to the cleat and a decent sized motor.

    Slightly off topic, and I don't know if it is relevant to you, but the other fishing trick that I learned after moving up here was the egg loop knot. It has become my preferred knot for catfishing. It doesn't matter if I am fishing cut bait or livers. It holds baits including soft baits like livers extremely well even in current and leaves the point on a circle hook nicely exposed. Despite growing up in Missouri where catfishing is king I had never seen anybody use it. I can't tell you the number of times I saw people (myself included) putting chicken livers in pantyhose. When moving spots or changing baits it is a pain to get the pantyhose off the barb. I can just put the bait in the loop, and it stays. Much quicker to rebate than trying to get pantyhose off of a barb, less stuff to forget to bring, and less stuff to accidentally litter.

    People up here actually don't really use the egg loop knot for catfish or sturgeon either. They use it for keeping cured salmon eggs on the hook when salmon or steelhead fishing. I have caught ~250 lb sturgeon with it on 80 lb mono leader and not had any problems with it breaking.
     
    I always just tied the rope to a rear cleat and put the gas motor in drive. Never had one stuck bad enough that it wouldnt come loose that way. Kayak....thats another story.

    And a nice tip i'll keep in mind but I dont do any catfishing. 99% is LMB and SMB fishing for me except the one time a year I travel north for northern pike and musky.

    We had sturgeon in the hudson river back when I lived in NY. Was always jealous of the DEP that got to go out fishing all day and fish for sturgeon to tag them. I asked quite a bit to take me with them since I worked at the marina they operated out of but it was a pretty hard no. lol