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2022- Best .22 LR Suppressor?

I’ve got the Griffin Resistance with the added taper mount blast baffle. Cycling the bolt on my 20” savage is louder than firing. Very impressed with how quiet is. However I need to shoot it more to see how I feel about it for prs style match accuracy.
I don't see the point in wanting to use a suppressor for competition; you'll be wearing ear pro along with everyone else anyway. Having a can hanging off the front adds length for movement on barricades more of a challenge.
 
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People wear ear pro at .22 PRS events? Lol
Yes, usually a requirement for the range/match rules. If you think "it's just a .22lr, don't need no stinking ear pro" you are a damn fool that deserves the tinitus you will get if you don't have it already.

Before you call me a pussy, I grew up shooting without eye or ear pro, all day long with centerfire, rimfire, shotgun...grew up on an open air tractor with the exhaust blaring in my ears...the tinitus I have is well deserved, can't go to sleep at night without a movie playing to drowned out the "white noise".
 
Yes, usually a requirement for the range/match rules. If you think "it's just a .22lr, don't need no stinking ear pro" you are a damn fool that deserves the tinitus you will get if you don't have it already.

Before you call me a pussy, I grew up shooting without eye or ear pro, all day long with centerfire, rimfire, shotgun...grew up on an open air tractor with the exhaust blaring in my ears...the tinitus I have is well deserved, can't go to sleep at night without a movie playing to drowned out the "white noise".
I wasn’t gonna call you anything. Just watching .22 matches all over I don’t see the majority people wearing ear pro.

Pretty sure that’s a “selling point” tor the .22 style matches.
 
I wasn’t gonna call you anything. Just watching .22 matches all over I don’t see the majority people wearing ear pro.

Pretty sure that’s a “selling point” tor the .22 style matches.
I've never been to a match that everyone wasn't wearing ear pro. Granted, being on the east coast, it's nanny state rules to protect the host...
 
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you are a damn fool that deserves the tinitus you will get if you don't have it already.
Yeah 20k .22 as a youngster f ed my hearing. All supersonic rounds are ear damaging.


That said I don’t think subsonics are damaging and I run a can on comp guns center fire or run Fire
 
Yes, usually a requirement for the range/match rules. If you think "it's just a .22lr, don't need no stinking ear pro" you are a damn fool that deserves the tinitus you will get if you don't have it already.

Before you call me a pussy, I grew up shooting without eye or ear pro, all day long with centerfire, rimfire, shotgun...grew up on an open air tractor with the exhaust blaring in my ears...the tinitus I have is well deserved, can't go to sleep at night without a movie playing to drowned out the "white noise".
It's always surprising to me how many folks don't wear ear pro when shooting .22 events. The only time I don't wear ear pro is when shooting subsonic .22LR suppressed. Even then I may use it with a semi auto due to port pop. Typically I'm one of maybe 25% of the guys in the squad wearing some form of ear pro.
 
I don't see the point in wanting to use a suppressor for competition; you'll be wearing ear pro along with everyone else anyway. Having a can hanging off the front adds length for movement on barricades more of a challenge.
I agree with you, but if it balances ever so slightly better with a little more weight on the front and shot well, I would consider that a decent trade off for being a bit longer and unwieldy.
 
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Would love to hear a comparison between the Mask and the TBAC. Feels like these are the top two rimfire cans currently.
I own both... They're both phenomenal cans. They are both extremely quiet, and well-built. I have noticed that my Ranger 22 shoots a bit better with the TBAC, but that could just be harmonics of the barrel preferring one can over the other. I've noticed this phenomena with centerfire rifles preferring a different weight/model suppressor over another, as well. As far as DB volume (sound) between the TBAC and Mask, they're pretty much identical with CCI SV. As was mentioned, the TBAC is slightly longer, and slightly lighter in weight. But it's really just a pick which one you prefer, or is in stock, you'll probably end up with both sooner or later, anyway. Rimfire cans are rarely a "one and done" thing, as most people own multiple .22's in both rifle and pistol.

The only gripe I have about the TBAC, is the baffle alignment notches are not very definitive, and are fairly subtle. And if you're not paying attention while reassembling the baffle stack, you could accidentally rotate one too far and they would not be perfectly aligned, which could potentially damage the baffles when compressed. The Mask has blatantly obvious notches that only fit 1 way, and it's nearly impossible for them not to fit into the same direction. I only say "nearly" impossible, because as we all know, there's some idiot somewhere that would try to reinstall the stack with a hammer if the cap won't fit. 🤦🏼

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New video is up of the TBAC 22 Takedown can on the new Ruger MK-IV SSH, shooting 8" gongs at 100 yards... This thing is hollywood quiet...And accurate!

 
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New video is up of the TBAC 22 Takedown can on the new Ruger MK-IV SSH, shooting 8" gongs at 100 yards... This thing is hollywood quiet...And accurate!


I have the same combo going together. Should be sweet. Also working on a Vudoo 360 in the background

Just curious…I already emailed TBAC but the takedown should come with a tool to remove the end caps??? Or is that something you purchase separate. I opened the box and see nothing 🤷

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I have the same combo going together. Should be sweet. Also working on a Vudoo 360 in the background

Just curious…I already emailed TBAC but the takedown should come with a tool to remove the end caps??? Or is that something you purchase separate. I opened the box and see nothing 🤷

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It comes with a little 3d printed plastic tool, but I would order the one from Spire Gunworks. I have his tools for all my cans that he makes them for. We follow each other on IG, and i've even helped him with some measurements for some new wrenches in the future. 😉 He makes top-quality stuff.

I have one for my Mask and my 22TD, and I highly recommend the "standard" (closed end) version for both. I wouldn't go with the open-ended version, it could slip off and scratch your can.

 
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Agree 100% on the CLR @padom but I have found (on my Mask) some lead build up on the clipped area of the baffles so I tumble to knock if off. IF the baffles look super crudy the get a 45 minute soak in the CLR to soften any carbon then into the tumbler! Come out looking like new!
Gonna have to try CLR.
 
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No experience with the TBAC can...but the mask is awesome. I've had it since pre covid and have a case thru it now. No first round pop is real. I noticed though if I go over a brick thru her...she shits bad where she eats, gets hefty and take down makes you 2nd guess if the baffles are ever coming apart again. if you clean closer to every 1/2 brick...she's g2g
 
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Gonna have to try CLR.
Works well but be mindful of the end caps. Air drying can cause light rust. I usually do a CLR soak, then a few cycles in the ultra-sonic with distilled water, and then into a 250F oven to drive off all the water. After that I assemble, lightly oil and wipe off the exterior, and good to go! The Mask is pushing 5 years old and the end caps are no long black... More of a sniper gray.
No experience with the TBAC can...but the mask is awesome. I've had it since pre covid and have a case thru it now. No first round pop is real. I noticed though if I go over a brick thru her...she shits bad where she eats, gets hefty and take down makes you 2nd guess if the baffles are ever coming apart again. if you clean closer to every 1/2 brick...she's g2g
I've gone 2000+ rounds on one of my Masks before and it gained an ounce. The baffles that will come apart go into the CLR. The one that won't? Into the CLR until they do. A half hour usually does the trick.
 
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Works well but be mindful of the end caps. Air drying can cause light rust. I usually do a CLR soak, then a few cycles in the ultra-sonic with distilled water, and then into a 250F oven to drive off all the water. After that I assemble, lightly oil and wipe off the exterior, and good to go! The Mask is pushing 5 years old and the end caps are no long black... More of a sniper gray.

I've gone 2000+ rounds on one of my Masks before and it gained an ounce. The baffles that will come apart go into the CLR. The one that won't? Into the CLR until they do. A half hour usually does the trick.
How long do you soak your mask baffles in CLR? I just got a gallon of it off amazon to try to clean my Ti centerfire cans.
 
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How long do you soak your mask baffles in CLR? I just got a gallon of it off amazon to try to clean my Ti centerfire cans.
The Mask baffles usually get 30 to 45 minutes and it softens everything up nicely.
 
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The Mask baffles usually get 30 to 45 minutes and it softens everything up nicely.
I used the CLR soak for my Rugged Obsidian 45 baffles (17-4 SS), piston, and spring last night, and soaked them for about 30 minutes. The carbon just pretty much wiped off. Impressive! I will try by Mask baffles next cleaning session, and soak them for 0:45 - 1 hr just to get any old stubborn lead off of them.
 
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Did my ocd research on my last 22 can purchase. Seems to be enough mask and tbac fans that it’s just a toss up. I went tbac, and i’m very happy with it. Doesn’t mean I wouldn’t have been happy with a mask though.

Flip a coin and get the timer ticking.

I only do a deep clean on the tbac after I run a case of ammo (5k rounds). Every ~500 or so I’ll quickly scrape out the clumps and reassemble. Not really a time saver just trying to minimize chemical usage.
 
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I have the Mask and the TBAC as well as a handful of others. The thing I don't understand is why the Rugged Oculus is never mentioned. It's my favorite rimfire can. It tested the most accurate on a Vudoo over a reasonably large sample size which was all recorded in Excel and analyzed. In fact it was the only one I tested that essentially didn't change precision. All of the others except the Griffin Optimus micro enlarged group size. The Griffin is a neat can as well, but it's almost not a rimfire can and spends most of it's life on one of my 223s. I will say, that I don't really have a need for the reduced length (k-can) adaptation that allows you to shorten it and would buy more of them if they would make it without that at a cheaper price point, but I could certainly be in the minority on that one. It's easy to clean and feels very robust compared to most others and doesn't require any o-rings either.
 
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It comes with a little 3d printed plastic tool, but I would order the one from Spire Gunworks. I have his tools for all my cans that he makes them for. We follow each other on IG, and i've even helped him with some measurements for some new wrenches in the future. 😉 He makes top-quality stuff.

I have one for my Mask and my 22TD, and I highly recommend the "standard" (closed end) version for both. I wouldn't go with the open-ended version, it could slip off and scratch your can.

Got my wrench from TBAC. Ordered the open ended one you linked above. Figured it be handy to have for getting can off if the mount end gets stuck on host
 
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Got my wrench from TBAC. Ordered the open ended one you linked above. Figured it be handy to have for getting can off if the mount end gets stuck on host
I always buy the closed-ended ones, but I suppose the open-ended would come in handy in that instance.

Overall quality and fitment, what's your thoughts?
 
I always buy the closed-ended ones, but I suppose the open-ended would come in handy in that instance.

Overall quality and fitment, what's your thoughts?
I just ordered it. Closed end would be best for taking apart for sure. I have a Ruger identical to what you posted in your video. Figure if it get stuck on there or my rifles the open end would get them off where the closed can’t. I’ll use the TBAC tool for taking can apart in general. Unless I have issues with it
 
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I just ordered it. Closed end would be best for taking apart for sure. I have a Ruger identical to what you posted in your video. Figure if it get stuck on there or my rifles the open end would get them off where the closed can’t. I’ll use the TBAC tool for taking can apart in general. Unless I have issues with it
I don't even use my TBAC tool. LOL It's still sitting in the box with the can at the dealer waiting on approval. But I always carry my Spire tools with me, incase I need to disassemble them.
 
Anyone have thoughts on how the Oculus stacks up to the Mask or TBAC? Given Dead Air (at least temporarily) has severe manufacturing issues and zero CS support anymore, the Oculus is intriguing. This is coming from a wolfman, nomad, nomad l and sierra 5 (yes it blew up) owner. My reading has let me to believe that the baffles in the Oculus are a little more study and fit snugger in the tube, whereas the Mask gets some buildup in the tube that needs cleaning after time. Curious how the Oculus is on FRP since the Mask pretty much has zero. If it can match the Mask in lack of FRP and is quieter, the added length and weight don't bother me.
 
Anyone have thoughts on how the Oculus stacks up to the Mask or TBAC? Given Dead Air (at least temporarily) has severe manufacturing issues and zero CS support anymore, the Oculus is intriguing. This is coming from a wolfman, nomad, nomad l and sierra 5 (yes it blew up) owner. My reading has let me to believe that the baffles in the Oculus are a little more study and fit snugger in the tube, whereas the Mask gets some buildup in the tube that needs cleaning after time. Curious how the Oculus is on FRP since the Mask pretty much has zero. If it can match the Mask in lack of FRP and is quieter, the added length and weight don't bother me.
I’ve written a few times comparing them. I have them all and a few others. Most baffle systems like the three you mentioned have minimal FRP. That being said on a small sample of rifles, but including a Vudoo, I have a very noticeable POI shift with my first round out of the Mask. The Oculus is slightly heavier I believe but to me that’s the only downside.
 
My one and only .22 suppressor is the OSS RAD-22.
Only had it a year, so not the most experienced owner, but it's quite, hasn't caused any accuracy issues, and comes apart easily to clean.

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I’ve written a few times comparing them. I have them all and a few others. Most baffle systems like the three you mentioned have minimal FRP. That being said on a small sample of rifles, but including a Vudoo, I have a very noticeable POI shift with my first round out of the Mask. The Oculus is slightly heavier I believe but to me that’s the only downside.
Appreciate the datapoint on accuracy with the Mask. Which one to you seems quietest at the muzzle? All three are in stock - might need to order one before heading to bed.
 
If I could have one of each or two Oculus, I’d have gone two Oculus. To me they aren’t all that close. I don’t have a meter of any kind but they’re all pretty similar in sound reduction.
 
If I could have one of each or two Oculus, I’d have gone two Oculus. To me they aren’t all that close. I don’t have a meter of any kind but they’re all pretty similar in sound reduction.
Ordered. Thanks for the data.