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Suppressors Top 22 LR Cans

If you want to use it on a pistol, get something lighter than a Mask. It’s big and heavy (relatively), and pretty restrictive. It’s great on a rifle. On a pistol it could lose an inch, an ounce or two, and a good deal of backpressure.
 
Huxwrx has a new 3D printed can coming out. They had it at shot show. Right around 3oz or so, flow through design. Sounded really good on the various videos being released.
 
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I forgot about that. The M&P 22s are threaded for a standard AR length bird cage or other muzzle device. When I first got the suppressor I called TBAC and they recommended the Dead Air adapter. I spun it on with a slight dab of blue lock tight and have had no issues since.
Tikka T1X has .490" threads vs the .400" rimfire standard. Made it difficult to screw on a can that had been fired on a standard barrel. The threads past .400" got carbon in them. A .090" shim solved the problem nicely. No adapter required.
 
Tikka T1X has .490" threads vs the .400" rimfire standard. Made it difficult to screw on a can that had been fired on a standard barrel. The threads past .400" got carbon in them. A .090" shim solved the problem nicely. No adapter required.

Not expensive to purchase a 1/2-28 thread tap.. clean the carbon out of those threads in 2 seconds. I have all taps in the drawer and have used them many times for this very reason..
 
Not expensive to purchase a 1/2-28 thread tap.. clean the carbon out of those threads in 2 seconds. I have all taps in the drawer and have used them many times for this very reason..
Well, a shim doesn't require any seconds... But my post was to the guy who's barrel threads were too long for his can to seat against the shoulder.
 
Yeah, the real problem is when the barrel threads are longer than the suppressor threads, because then the protruding portion of the barrel threads will fill with carbon and lock the can in place. (It's a feature, not a bug!) I strongly recommend using a shim in such cases that is thick enough to ensure that the muzzle does not protrude past the interior surface of the end cap.
 
The DIP etc and safety:
 
Yeah, the real problem is when the barrel threads are longer than the suppressor threads, because then the protruding portion of the barrel threads will fill with carbon and lock the can in place. (It's a feature, not a bug!) I strongly recommend using a shim in such cases that is thick enough to ensure that the muzzle does not protrude past the interior surface of the end cap.
My Ranger 22 has long barrel threads. Works fine with the Mask HD, but not with the TBAC. So I run one of these all the time.

 
My big tip: buy all-titanium cans. CLR doesn’t damage titanium. Stainless is second-best…CLR may etch it after some soaking time (be careful with SS threads). Don’t buy anything aluminum as CLR will eat it.
 
My big tip: buy all-titanium cans. CLR doesn’t damage titanium. Stainless is second-best…CLR may etch it after some soaking time (be careful with SS threads). Don’t buy anything aluminum as CLR will eat it.
You're not wrong, for some people. I like my Mustang most of my four rimfire cans for pistol use. It's good that we have so many choices.