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22 Nosler beating the hell out of my brass

Interesting - IMR 4064 is #101 on the burn rate chart and H335 is #86. Curious as to why you’re going to try a faster powder?

OFG
The truth; It's what I have as a stick pwd. Got some H335 I'm going to try and some 8208, hopefully tomorrow.
 
Yes in this day & age we have to pretty much use what we have on hand. H335 is a flattened ball powder, not stick. I have always had good 223 results with Varget (#108 on the chart) a stick powder. IMR 8280 is a short stick powder. Good luck with your loads.

OFG
 
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If you look back in the thread, I started with Varget with 55gr bullets, and it worked fine, it's when I went up in bullet weight AND using BL-C2 that the brass took a beating. I now have some 75 and 80 gr bullets I'm eventually going to get around to shooting.
 
If you look back in the thread, I started with Varget with 55gr bullets, and it worked fine, it's when I went up in bullet weight AND using BL-C2 that the brass took a beating. I now have some 75 and 80 gr bullets I'm eventually going to get around to shooting.
The Varget mention was pretty far back and my memory isn’t what it once was. As a matter of information I load 107 grain bullets with Varget in my 260 and H4350 (slower) for 130 and up. Generally heavier bullets do better with slower powders.

OFG
 
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The fatter case, lower pressure (than 5.56) less surface area and bolt THRUST is OK for bolt guns but the bolt thrust is NOT OK for ARs? The problem with ARs is the gas system. Nobody can seem to get the gas system to work.
Dogtown brass is made by Nosler. It is a little lighter and the neck thickness is less than Nosler Branded brass.
Modified 6mm Hagar brass is heavier and has a 6.8/Valk sized case head.
I can run some pretty stiff loads with a slower powder and heavy bullets without brass damage in a NO-GAS AR.
So, where is the problem?

Here's the brass from one 600 yd F-Open match. Lost 2 cases somewhere. Color coded the brass. View attachment 7419430
The problem is the increased bolt thrust on a reduced area. Part of the equation for bolt thrust is the diameter of the case, the larger the diameter, the more thrust. In the event that case head is the same diameter, that thrust is distributed over a wider area, in the case of a rebated rim, that thrust is concentrated in a smaller area. In addition, the AR platform begins unlocking when there is still significant pressure on the bolt face, not usually an issue but with the increased bolt thrust concentrated in a reduced area, it is an issue. (which you already know, per your post)
This isn't a problem with a bolt gun, as the pressure is zero when you open the bolt.
Do you cycle your no gas ar manually? If so, you have answered your own question.
The NOS-GAR solution is the best if you are looking for the small capacity increase over the valkyrie, otherwise, in an AR, go valkyrie and avoid the problems.
I built my 22 nosler on a remington bolt action I had laying around. We throated it long and seat the bullets out. 3100 with the 80's is VERY easy to accomplish. I tried the 88 eldm at 3000 but couldn't get them to shoot (1-7 twist).
I use 6.5 sta-ball powder, works very well with the heavy bullets.
 
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Got some 4350; both types, Hodgdon and IMR. Going to load with IMR today and Hodgdon tomorrow. Also going to use unadulterated Nosler brass.
 
Makes the 22-250 and 22 Creedmoor look more viable all the time.
 
To each his own; that's why there's so many choices. 22 Nosler is actually being tamed as I type. New brass, better choice pwd, it's exciting. Good luck on your choice.
 
Makes the 22-250 and 22 Creedmoor look more viable all the time.
Don't fit in an ar15 magazine, or fire from a small frame AR pattern rifle... Different strokes for different folks.
 
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