300 Norma Mag

Going back to sizing dies, my LE Wilson sizer will not allow me to bump the shoulder at all. I use Redding comp shellholders and screw the die in to make contact with the shellholder well before top of stroke to avoid camover. Even with the standard shellholder (+0) I’m not getting any bump, and cannot size brass fired in a different chamber to fit mine at all. I’m going to call them Monday, but what other issues have you guys found?
In my 300 norma improved i had to take a shell holder and grind it off about 8 thousand. I just took a diamond stone to shave off what I needed
 
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In my 300 norma improved i had to take a shell holder and grind it off about 8 thousand. I just took a diamond stone to shave off what I needed

I wonder if putting the die body in a 6-jaw chuck to take about 10 thousandths off the bottom would be accurate enough not to affect runout. And I wonder how hard that joker is…
 
I think Lapua 300 Norma cases is really tough imo. I have to run the ram twice to get the bump on my bullet central sizing die. I found that was working for me.
 
Going back to sizing dies, my LE Wilson sizer will not allow me to bump the shoulder at all. I use Redding comp shellholders and screw the die in to make contact with the shellholder well before top of stroke to avoid camover. Even with the standard shellholder (+0) I’m not getting any bump, and cannot size brass fired in a different chamber to fit mine at all. I’m going to call them Monday, but what other issues have you guys found?
What's the difference on fired brass from one chamber to the new one? Sounds like a pretty big gap. Use a belt sander to take down top surface of shell holder. Or machined own the face of your die.

You're not sizing on a zero press by chance are you?
 
What's the difference on fired brass from one chamber to the new one? Sounds like a pretty big gap. Use a belt sander to take down top surface of shell holder. Or machined own the face of your die.

You're not sizing on a zero press by chance are you?

No, I'm using a Redding Ultra mag press. I bought some once-fired brass, and it's a full 13 thousandths longer than new, and 5 thousandths longer than a new case fired in mine with a very light load. I can't get any bump on the brass I bought, and it won't chamber in my rifle. I may mess with a shellholder, but I'm definitely calling LE Wilson Monday, too.
 
You weren't asking me, but I am sizing 300NM on a Zero, and I'm having some problems, so I'm curious why you asked that. What is the problem with sizing on a Zero press?


Zero press using a conventional shell holder, I had to sand down my shell holders to get proper bump, as did a few buddies. I switched over to the A419 shell holder and all was well, but they don't make a norma holder. Not quite sure why my redding and rcbs holders wouldn't interface to give bump on the zero press. All my chambers are cut by a very good smith to go gauge +002, so 2 thou deep of gauge, I like a lil brass growth on virgin firing.
 
Going back to sizing dies, my LE Wilson sizer will not allow me to bump the shoulder at all. I use Redding comp shellholders and screw the die in to make contact with the shellholder well before top of stroke to avoid camover. Even with the standard shellholder (+0) I’m not getting any bump, and cannot size brass fired in a different chamber to fit mine at all. I’m going to call them Monday, but what other issues have you guys found?
When I've had dies that won't bump the shoulder. I've chucked those dies in a 4-jaw chuck, in the lathe, and faced off some of the die to create space. Indicating the inside of the die to .0005", before cutting. If you don't have a lathe maybe you know a guy that does. It is not a lengthy process.
 
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Zero press using a conventional shell holder, I had to sand down my shell holders to get proper bump, as did a few buddies. I switched over to the A419 shell holder and all was well, but they don't make a norma holder. Not quite sure why my redding and rcbs holders wouldn't interface to give bump on the zero press. All my chambers are cut by a very good smith to go gauge +002, so 2 thou deep of gauge, I like a lil brass growth on virgin firing.
Thanks, interesting. I have been able to achieve the bump I wanted, but I'm beginning to wonder if it's because my 1x fired cases are longer than they should be (ie a chamber cut too deep). But, they are factory AI rifles and barrels, and brass coming out of both measures the same.
 
Thanks, interesting. I have been able to achieve the bump I wanted, but I'm beginning to wonder if it's because my 1x fired cases are longer than they should be (ie a chamber cut too deep). But, they are factory AI rifles and barrels, and brass coming out of both measures the same.
I'd it's working, don't worry!
 
I'd it's working, don't worry!
Haha! Yes, words to live by, only it's not...
I've been working this problem for several months with no answer yet. Bottom line - both barrels will shoot factory Berger 215, 230, and 245gr ammo with no extraction issues. But as soon as I resize (I've tried both Redding Type-S and Micron dies), they chamber fine, but I have heavy bolt lift and clickers after firing. I'm using Retumbo and getting similar velocities as the factory ammo gives. I've gone way below the Berger-published loads for that powder, and the problem doesn't start to go away until I get down to something like 2600fps and 75gr of powder (I'm running 78gr in my 300PRC with the same bullet, getting over 2800, so something isn't right). I tried a pressure ladder with N568 just to see if it was the powder, but I got the same result. Out of the same jug of Retumbo, I'm running 78gr in the 300PRC (230gr bullet), and 88.1gr in my 338NM (300gr bullet) and getting appropriate performance and no pressure problems.

All of my 300NM brass to date has been Lapua, sourced from factory Berger ammo I fired in the rifle with no problems. I haven't tried any brand-new brass with a load that should give "appropriate" performance for the chosen bullet (meaning similar to factory ammo), but I just bought some and will see. I expect they'll work fine on first firing, and then the problem will return on the next firing.
 
I;m getting a 300NM barrel in this week. Using H1000 and 215 Bergers initially mainly becaue I have a bunch of both having shot 300WM for a good while. Lapua brass. From all I read a good starting point is about 84g and a top out 86-87ish grains Does that sound right to fellas using this combination?
 
From my notes (I ended up going with RETUMBO). Out of a 28" barrel using Peterson brass and 215's with 84.5 gr of H-1000 velocity was 3017 fps, ES 21, SD 7 for 5 shot's.

Is this a decent velocity for 215's? I'm getting 3057 fps with86.4 gr of RETUMBO.
I think you have about another 50-70fps in the tank, but if it shoots there, leave it.