300WM - Barrel Life w/ Reduced Loads

MMH

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Mar 17, 2013
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The 300WM suffers from short barrel life. How much could the life be improved by going to significantly reduced loads? For instance, a 208gr. @ 2600fps or a 178gr. @ 2800fps would put it closer to a 308 load than a 300WM.

I understand that it would not be an efficient load - looking at load books it would take close to 60 gr. of powder. But, would it be possible to develop an accurate reduced load?
 
I run 210gn Berger’s, 69.5gns ADI 2213sc, at 2724fps out of a TRG 42. Currently at 3010 rds through it with no noticeable decline in accuracy (still sub 1/2 Moa). Not sure if this helps
 
I already have a 308. Maybe I should ask the question a slightly different way. How far should I reduce loads to optimize barrel life in a 300WM & what is the potential barrel life with these reduced loads?
 
I already have a 308. Maybe I should ask the question a slightly different way. How far should I reduce loads to optimize barrel life in a 300WM & what is the potential barrel life with these reduced loads?

You’re burning a lot of powder, you’re not going to see a significant increase in barrel life from reducing a charge. Using a cooler powder will do more than reducing charges. You’ll get the best barrel life with in 300WM with H1000.

If you want to preserve the barrel then just shoot a different rifle instead of burning up the 300WM if you don’t need it’s capabilities. If you’re considering downloading your charges to save barrel life then you obviously don’t need 300WM capabilities.
 
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You know what would save the barrel life completely? Run those loads in a different 308 rifle instead.

Seriously, why have a 300WM just to neuter it? Get a 308.


Or he could get an '06 and run those 210s at 2700 give or take 50 fps depending on barrel length. His barrel should last around 5k-6k before he starts to a see a decline of accuracy depending on how he shoots. I'm running 210 SMKs out of a 22inch Rock right at 2700 fps, the load is a hammer!
 
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Not only that, but I think the slower powders like H1000 and Retumbo are far easier to tune and give lower SD than most or all faster ones. That said, there is NO WAY I'm going to burn up my .300WM anytime soon.

I hunt mine. I don't shoot it in competition. The round count on mine is under 500, and most of that is load development (I've switched a few times) and just plinking with it on the 1,000 yard range for fun. Even then I think I've only shot something like 50 over the course of most of a day. Mine is a full palma, but it still heats up fast, and I won't risk a heat injury, so I do a lot of switching to another rifle while it cools. I'll only fire it in anger at a beast a couple of times a year. I am pretty sure my kid will inherit it still holding under a minute with plenty of life.

I don't shoot in LR/ELR competitions, but as I understand it you're shooting more like 60 rounds rather than over 200. That ought to be several years of competitions rather than one season.

If you hunt a .300WM like me your grandkids will be killin' shit with it. I think it also might help if you shoot 210s or 230s that use less powder.

You can always re-barrel it if it lets go. Barrels are expendable.
Is there a correlation between how fast a powder and how hot it is? How would Retumbo compare to H-1000?
Very close.
 
I don't think so. I think it's all hot, but it's how many grains that seems to make it hot or not. I have read somewhere a rule of thumb about pounds of powder through the barrel being an indicator of life. Surely, shooting a lot and heating up a barrel is the worst thing you can do that shortens the life the most. I think the best thing you can do for barrel life is to shoot slowly and give ample time to cool between shots. I honestly think it helps to keep the rifle in the shade between shots too.

Obviously this is a no go in a match rifle, so barrels become an expendable resource and you stop caring about them so much. That certainly colors everything for me.
 
So, the purpose of my rifle is a combination hunting/long range rifle. I do not think that I will use it for competition because even my 308 heats up more than I like when shooting F-class. I want to shoot it enough where I am VERY comfortable w/ THAT specific rifle. I will have my hammer/hunting loads developed, but throughout the year want to use more mild loads for practice (maybe even w/o a muzzle break).
 
I understand your wants/concerns, but it's more than being comfortable with the rifle. You need to know that load. Whenever you shoot you're gathering, recording, and/or confirming so when you squeeze that trigger you know how that bullet will behave at that range in those conditions. To me that's where the confidence/comfort comes in. Switching loads like that isn't a great idea IMHO. You are much better served with a trainer in a sub caliber, and finding the optimal load for your .300WM and then getting to know it like the back of your hand. If you have good dope on the .300WM the skills with the .308 will translate.

I've seen guys have their match rifles go down mid match, share a rifle with a squad-mate, and shoot just as good when that squad mate has good DOPE for that rifle. The skills transfer. We all have preferences, certain things we like better, favorite reticles, etc., but you are not going to be a rock star on one rifle, and suddenly suck on another if the DOPE is good. Just my opinion.
 
I understand your wants/concerns, but it's more than being comfortable with the rifle. You need to know that load. Whenever you shoot you're gathering, recording, and/or confirming so when you squeeze that trigger you know how that bullet will behave at that range in those conditions. To me that's where the confidence/comfort comes in. Switching loads like that isn't a great idea IMHO. You are much better served with a trainer in a sub caliber, and finding the optimal load for your .300WM and then getting to know it like the back of your hand. If you have good dope on the .300WM the skills with the .308 will translate.

I've seen guys have their match rifles go down mid match, share a rifle with a squad-mate, and shoot just as good when that squad mate has good DOPE for that rifle. The skills transfer. We all have preferences, certain things we like better, favorite reticles, etc., but you are not going to be a rock star on one rifle, and suddenly suck on another if the DOPE is good. Just my opinion.
We understand each other. Most of the practice on my shooting skills will be on my 308 or even 223. The practice w/ the 300WM will be to get very comfortable w/ that rifle. I am thinking that I can get allot of good practice w/ a mild/medium load (212 gr. @ 2700 or so) and get enough practice w/ the hunting load (where I will want every advantage i.e. increased velocity w/ same bullet, lets say 2950 fps instead of 2700). When I practice, I continually run the ballistic program to understand if my ballistic solution is on, and if not, which parameter needs to be calibrated. When I move up to the hunting load (which I will have some practice with via load development & final pre-hunt practice), then everything will stay the same except for velocity (would be shooting the same bullet at lower velocity), any miss in wind speed calls will result in slightly less error as compared to shooting the lower velocity loads.
 
You're not going to get very comfortable with a rifle running a significantly slower/reduced load than you're standard load.

To be comfortable with a rifle you should understand the ballistics of that rifle and you're changing that. I good rifleman should be able to pick up any rifle and be proficient with it unless the ergonomics are just super shitty. Knowing your dope on the fly is much harder.

If you're really that concerned, set up all of your rifles with the same stocks/chassis and the same optics.

My take on this whole thing is that you have rifle ADHD like me and just need to mess with something.