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.308 brass cleaning

rickp

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
I read through all the Hand Loading articles and I've even tried some of the suggestions the author mentions.
One of them being the use of a ultrasonic machine to clean the brass. The machine I used was a cheap $40 machine. Now I'm not sure if that had anything to do with the results but the machine did a VERY poor job at cleaning the brass.

So my question is, how important is it to clean the inside of the case and if important, what are you guys using?

I have a Dillon tumbler and it does the job well for cleaning cases, but according to one of the articles, this method of cleaning doesn't really address the inside of the case and also has a tendency to harden them, which I guess is a no no. Again, how critical is this step in loading for accuracy for distance of 1000 and beyond.
 
Re: .308 brass cleaning

I have used every type of cleaning out and I have since gone back to the tried and true treated corn media in a vibratory cleaner. Stainless and ultrasonic are both effective means of cleaning but I hated the wet process. I just never felt the cases were well dried for at least 24 hours.
 
Re: .308 brass cleaning

I use an ultrasonic cleaner filled with a vinegar & water mix, then a run with baking soda & water.

Read here: http://www.6mmbr.com/ultrasonic.html

As far as drying goes, I think it was 427Cobra on here that introduced me to this method: put some rubbing alcohol in a bucket and dunk the wet cases. The alcohol displaces the water and dries in seconds.
 
Re: .308 brass cleaning

I use the Harbor Freight Ultra Sonic. I don't usually prime the same day I run them. If I run them through the cleaner first thing in the morning I can put them outside to dry (air and sun)and prime that night, but by my regular process I let them dry for a couple of days or so before I prime. I run big batches of brass at a time so it might be a night or two of cleaning before I get to priming.

I've read about putting the brass on the air conditioner to dry (hot moving air) but haven't been that impatient for brass.
 
Re: .308 brass cleaning

How much cleaning do you HAVE to do? To make ammo that works, all you really need to do is get the crud and abrasive stuff off the outside of the brass - stuff that got on the brass when it hit the ground or bounced around in a dirty bucket, etc, not debris from actually being fired. If you don't get this stuff off, you will eventually run something into your sizing die that will scratch the steel which in turn will then start scratching every piece of brass that goes through it. I've got a die that was ruined like that. Plus you'll also start dragging the same abrasive crud into your gun.

I admit I like clean, shiny brass so I do a lot more than is really necessary. When some folks would tumble in a vibratory tumbler for 2-3 hours, I would run it for 24 hours. Now I use the stainless steel method but the initial costs was around $250 - again, more than really required.

I've never seen a study that proves how much, if any, accumulated powder and primer residue affects the performance of the ammo. But it's kind of intuitive that the more crud that builds up inside the case, the more your case volume will be affected. And the more primer residue that builds up in your primer pocket, the more difficult it will be to get consistent primer seating and ignition.

When I switched over to the stainless steel method, I cut open some old brass for comparisons and there was a huge difference in how clean the insides and primer pockets were compared with the vibratory tumbler - even after my 'excessive' tumbling. It's hard to say how much my ammo performance was improved, if any, but it's just another way to eliminate possible inconsistencies. At some point I'm probably being too anal about this kind of stuff, but that could be said for any number of things lots of us do to prep our brass. If you're going to be shooting at extreme ranges, eliminating inconsistencies is the name of the game. With all that said, the best shooters in the world relied on vibratory tumblers for decades and did just fine.

I've heard people repeat that bit about hardening the brass, but I don't buy that at all. Flexing and stretching the brass is what hardens it. It's really called 'work hardening' and the brass doesn't get worked by tumbling and abrading oxidation off of the surface.
 
Re: .308 brass cleaning

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So my question is, how important is it to clean the inside of the case and if important, what are you guys using?</div></div>

I'm not sure that it makes that much difference to accuracy but I sure would feel better about knowing that the cases were clean inside and out.

I've been kicking around getting a stainless set up to use like every third firing or so. I sounds like a pain in the ass to use every time but I have a brother that reloaded some 30-06 rounds roughly eight times for his Garand and tapped a case neck down on the table and large flakes of crud came out. That can't be good. I know he tumbled the hell out of them too.

I think a combination of tumbling and stainless is would be the best of both worlds for me. Less dicking around but clean = more shooting and no worrying if they are clean.

I have a 1000 Lapua cases that have been shot twice. One more and I'll have to invest in the stainless set-up. Money, money, money. Addictions are expensive!
 
Re: .308 brass cleaning

I don't care what they look like on the outside, that does nothing for me or the consistancy needed. I just want a good clean inside.

That was a good point made, is there any data on how a clean inside improves things?

Can someone explain the SS media way or where to get the stuff?

Txs
 
Re: .308 brass cleaning

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rickp</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Can someone explain the SS media way or where to get the stuff?

Txs </div></div>

There are a couple of long threads here in this reloading section about the SS cleaning. In the beginning the media was a custom thing but now it has become more available. Sinclair carries kits with everything you need at a reasonable price (compared with other vendors).

Basically you get 5 lbs of the SS media and a big Thumbler's Tumbler. Add dish soap and a another special soap made for hard water(LemiShine), add your brass, fill the rest of the tumbler with water and turn it on for 4 hours. You get the cleanest brass inside and out that you've ever seen. The inside shines as bright as the outside.
 
Re: .308 brass cleaning

Rickp, send Suaponte here on the Hide a PM and he will give you the contact info to get the SS media. As mentioned there's a couple of long threads here about SS media. You will find Susaponte's comments on those threads. I have been using it for over a year and love the results.
 
Re: .308 brass cleaning

i just use a vib tumbler and crushed wallnut with .177 BB's thwown in with a good ammount of cut n polish car polish.

after 30> 45 min the brass is very clean and no lube is needed for neck sizing.

another 2 hours in the tumbler and the brass is as good as new, even with a good shine inside of the cases (from the .177 BB's)
 
Re: .308 brass cleaning

Ultrasonic works well just make sure on your final round in the cleaner you use distilled water. Then dry the cases well, I anneal right after to make sure the cases are dry.
 
Re: .308 brass cleaning

Rick,
Wich one are you using? I just ordered one from harbor freight. Hopefully not the same one as you!
smile.gif


Dave
 
Re: .308 brass cleaning

If I'm being anal (which I usually am) I'll ultrasonic clean with dish-washing liquid, vinegar and distilled water. Then rinse under clean water. After a quick shake in a dry towel, they go into the tumbler with treated corn media. 1-2hrs later I got a bunch of purdy cases.