.308 Winchester

Do keep us posted. I've got a box of them myself, but I haven't loaded any yet. Waiting on my jug of varget to show up.
I was intrigued by the bullet, as well, until I found my gun likes the 169 SMK. Might be a fun exercise to load some up and see if they’d do well enough to be competitive.

I was looking at the Hornady data yesterday, and they don’t actually have load data for the 174 and Varget in the manual.
 
I was intrigued by the bullet, as well, until I found my gun likes the 169 SMK. Might be a fun exercise to load some up and see if they’d do well enough to be competitive.

I was looking at the Hornady data yesterday, and they don’t actually have load data for the 174 and Varget in the manual.

Just use the 176 ATip or 178 ELD data.
 
I did an extremely lazy load development for my 308, ended up loading:
44.0gr of Varget, 168gr ELD-Ms, .020 off lands, WRE LR primers, sellier bellot brass.
Over 55rounds my ES/SD looks like 50/13fps, getting 2499fps (average) from a 16" barrel.

Groups at 100y & 300y look pretty good but at 500y & 600y I'm getting a lot more vertical dispersion that I'd like.
If I wanted to bring this down what should I do?
-tune powder
-tune seating depth
-different projectile (might be at edge of stability)
-better brass
-better dies (FL Hornady dies, but thinking bushing dies)

I'm a little worried the 168 ELDs are on edge of stability at distance (Berger calculator would suggest this), so a different projectile could be worth trying.
Of course could try turning my load (seating depth and/or powder) and could try for a bit more velocity, don't want to change from Varget if I can help it.

My guess is my brass isn't great so should start there, and invest in better dies. No point in speeding time and money on a bunch of different tests if my brass isn't very consistent. But at same time a 50fps ES probably isn't all down to the brass.

Shooting on some electronic targets i some decent wind I'm happy with .7moa vertical at 300y, but 1.8moa of vertical at 600y isn't great.

300y
View attachment 8786136

600y
View attachment 8786135
I’d change brass or bullet, change nothing else pick one of those two, then go from there. Obviously better brass won’t hurt anything. Measure H20 capacity though, some brass like my M118 brass is lower than usual capacity, you might be higher in pressure than you expect at that powder charge.

Also in my experience the 169gr SMK outperforms the 168, but your dispersion being what it is, I don’t think is due to the projectile… your rifle either HATES the SMK projectile which I doubt, or something else is up.

How often do you practice?
What rifle?
What’s your rate of fire like?
 
I was intrigued by the bullet, as well, until I found my gun likes the 169 SMK. Might be a fun exercise to load some up and see if they’d do well enough to be competitive.

I was looking at the Hornady data yesterday, and they don’t actually have load data for the 174 and Varget in the manual.

Just use the 176 ATip or 178 ELD data.
In that weight class of bullet, I just dump 45gr of varget and don't liok back. Works pretty good in my rifle. My brothers trg22 likes it also with a 175 tmk.

In regards to @beetroot high es and vertical at 600, I'd probably be looking somewhere else. Myself, I really struggle with more traditional stocks. If I dont stay on top of myself, I tend to get vertical.

I shot this group at 600 with my 6 dasher and some really poor loads (they did group well at100) running an sd in the low 20's and es in the mid 50's.
20250914_102035.jpg
 
That 174 is 1.432" long. It's longer than a 176 Atip. Best used in binderless mags @ 2.950". At that load length I got up to 2850 in Sig Hybrids using PP2000
I need to check them in my chamber. 178 eldm are only jumping .005" loaded to 2.8"
I can't remember how much that leaves me in magpul mags. I think the vt is going to work for me though. If not, I'll feed them to the winmag.
 
I wouldn’t go right to 45grns with that bullet and brass combo. I’d start around 43 and work up personally. Probably find the load near 44 or so.
Sierra’s manual is 43.6 max, and I loaded 175’s to that with Hornady brass (largest case capacity in what I have). Loading 175 MKX in FC brass (IME similar to LC), I’m at 42.7, and while it’s not really pushing it too hard, it’s more than enough for white tails out to 300. That’s what I’d guess the Hornady 175 would top out at.
 
Sierra’s manual is 43.6 max, and I loaded 175’s to that with Hornady brass (largest case capacity in what I have). Loading 175 MKX in FC brass (IME similar to LC), I’m at 42.7, and while it’s not really pushing it too hard, it’s more than enough for white tails out to 300. That’s what I’d guess the Hornady 175 would top out at.
Sierra manual is well know to be under estimated for max. Hodgdon lists 45 at max and I always start at 43 and go up with any brass but LC. Never an issue.
 
I did not have my current chrono at the time with Varget, but I loaded the last of the box of 175 SMKs with 46.5 of CFE223 and it averaged 2575, which is on point or faster than any 175 factory I’ve shot.

Behind a 169, 44.4 of Varget and a CCI 200 lands my 20” gun at 2630, which is a good enough balance of velocity vs recoil for PRS. 44.8 gr and a WLR will gain 100 fps, but that’s more than I feel the need for and recoil is just enough more to make spotting enough more difficult to not bother.
 
I’d change brass or bullet, change nothing else pick one of those two, then go from there. Obviously better brass won’t hurt anything. Measure H20 capacity though, some brass like my M118 brass is lower than usual capacity, you might be higher in pressure than you expect at that powder charge.

Also in my experience the 169gr SMK outperforms the 168, but your dispersion being what it is, I don’t think is due to the projectile… your rifle either HATES the SMK projectile which I doubt, or something else is up.

How often do you practice?
What rifle?
What’s your rate of fire like?
The bullets in my post are 168 ELDMs, I did shoot some factory ammo with 168 SMKs (@2430fps) the same day at 600yards but the ES was 80fps and they sucked in the wind.

My barrel is a 1:12 twist and at 2500fps the 169 SMK isn't going to be particularly stable.
If I change bullets I'll likely drop down to a 155gr.

Rifle is a AI AT, was a fairly fast rate of fire not PRS match quick but I wasn't pausing between shots.
I wasn't seeing the groups open up as the string went on, but I could look out for that next time.
The rifle is pretty new to me, and I haven't shot much centrefire lately (a lot of rimfire though) but my recoil management was pretty good, the trigger pulls felt good. My shooting was no worse at 600 than it was at 300.

I'll try to bring down the ES from the current load (different brass and/or different sizing dies).
I should weigh the S&B brass and see if is as inconsistent as I'm making it out to be.
 
Get better brass. Your es/sd are high for hand loads. Make sure you are accurate with your powder charge also.

The bullet is not the issue as it is still accurate going transonic. The .020” is a good place for it.
I checked the weight and length of once fired brass, 10x Sako 9x Hornady 20x S&B.
The S&B brass is definitely all over the place when it comes to weight and length compared to the other two brands.
The SD/ES of the brass weights were as follows:
Sako: 0.46/1.4
Horn: 0.7/2.3
S&B: 0.9/3.1

I'm going to get a bushing die also, resizing some brass today the expander ball felt like shit on many of the case.
Much better on the Hornaday and Sako brass, but I really don't think that's helping either.

Do you rate the Hornady bushing dies, or do I just go straight for Redding/Forster?
 
I checked the weight and length of once fired brass, 10x Sako 9x Hornady 20x S&B.
The S&B brass is definitely all over the place when it comes to weight and length compared to the other two brands.
The SD/ES of the brass weights were as follows:
Sako: 0.46/1.4
Horn: 0.7/2.3
S&B: 0.9/3.1

I'm going to get a bushing die also, resizing some brass today the expander ball felt like shit on many of the case.
Much better on the Hornaday and Sako brass, but I really don't think that's helping either.

Do you rate the Hornady bushing dies, or do I just go straight for Redding/Forster?

I personally like forster FL dies with ball removed and then run a mandrel. But yes, forster dies are generally really good.
 
I checked the weight and length of once fired brass, 10x Sako 9x Hornady 20x S&B.
The S&B brass is definitely all over the place when it comes to weight and length compared to the other two brands.
The SD/ES of the brass weights were as follows:
Sako: 0.46/1.4
Horn: 0.7/2.3
S&B: 0.9/3.1

I'm going to get a bushing die also, resizing some brass today the expander ball felt like shit on many of the case.
Much better on the Hornaday and Sako brass, but I really don't think that's helping either.

Do you rate the Hornady bushing dies, or do I just go straight for Redding/Forster?
Don't overlook the rcbs matchmaster dies. I have a few sets and I like them. That said, my hornady dies have never done me wrong. I did have to polish my redding 243AI die to slick it up a little.

In my non bushing dies I polish the expander down a few thou and finish expanding with a mandrel. It just feels better to me.
 
You don't run bushing dies, to avoid overworking the neck?
So I'm fairly new to reloading. Less than 2 years. I don't recall what I had read and researched back then. However, something had led me to believe that bushing dies "might" impose some potential issues, maybe donuts. I don't recall.

Another theory, a bushing will make the OD uniform, thus leaving any inconsistencies on the neck thickness to be transferred to the ID. This is what's in direct contact with your bullet so I would prefer the ID inconsistencies be ironed out and pushed out to the OD.

Even though I'm not very experienced, my results have been pretty good. I have also not proved or disproved the things I read online. I think even if you use a bushing die, considering your process is good and components are good, you should be able to get adequate results.
 
So I'm fairly new to reloading. Less than 2 years. I don't recall what I had read and researched back then. However, something had led me to believe that bushing dies "might" impose some potential issues, maybe donuts. I don't recall.

Another theory, a bushing will make the OD uniform, thus leaving any inconsistencies on the neck thickness to be transferred to the ID. This is what's in direct contact with your bullet so I would prefer the ID inconsistencies be ironed out and pushed out to the OD.

Even though I'm not very experienced, my results have been pretty good. I have also not proved or disproved the things I read online. I think even if you use a bushing die, considering your process is good and components are good, you should be able to get adequate results.

That’s all BS about bushing dies. I have been using bushing dies in multiple calibers for over 20 years and load very accurate ammo. Look around the internet and you will find someone saying the way you do it is wrong also. The internet is like that. You have to find what works for you and use it. I use what give me excellent results and is the least amount of work. Why I stopped deburring the flash holes.

I checked the weight and length of once fired brass, 10x Sako 9x Hornady 20x S&B.
The S&B brass is definitely all over the place when it comes to weight and length compared to the other two brands.
The SD/ES of the brass weights were as follows:
Sako: 0.46/1.4
Horn: 0.7/2.3
S&B: 0.9/3.1

I'm going to get a bushing die also, resizing some brass today the expander ball felt like shit on many of the case.
Much better on the Hornaday and Sako brass, but I really don't think that's helping either.

Do you rate the Hornady bushing dies, or do I just go straight for Redding/Forster?

Hornady bushing dies work well. I use them with my 6ARC. The others work also. I still have some of both and they do the job. With any of them you setting up the shoulder bump and using the right bushing for proper neck tension will be the most important things. Also most come with an expander ball and a thin ball to just hold the depriming pin in. Use the thin ball as you don’t want to set neck tension and then drag a ball back through opening it up.
 
Hornady bushing dies work well. I use them with my 6ARC. The others work also. I still have some of both and they do the job. With any of them you setting up the shoulder bump and using the right bushing for proper neck tension will be the most important things. Also most come with an expander ball and a thin ball to just hold the depriming pin in. Use the thin ball as you don’t want to set neck tension and then drag a ball back through opening it up.
Yeah that's how I've always set mine up.
I've only used Redding in the past but can't get a FL bushing die locally (not in the US), but Hornady are available.

Another option would be to remove/grind down the expander ball and then run a mandrel through.
I've never used a mandrel before as typically use a bushing die with good brass (Lapua).
 
Yeah that's how I've always set mine up.
I've only used Redding in the past but can't get a FL bushing die locally (not in the US), but Hornady are available.

Another option would be to remove/grind down the expander ball and then run a mandrel through.
I've never used a mandrel before as typically use a bushing die with good brass (Lapua).

Yeah the Hornady will work fine. And until I see a problem where I would need a mandrel and an extra step then I am just sticking to my FL bushing dies.
 
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I did an extremely lazy load development for my 308, ended up loading:
44.0gr of Varget, 168gr ELD-Ms, .020 off lands, WRE LR primers, sellier bellot brass.
Over 55rounds my ES/SD looks like 50/13fps, getting 2499fps (average) from a 16" barrel.

Groups at 100y & 300y look pretty good but at 500y & 600y I'm getting a lot more vertical dispersion that I'd like.
If I wanted to bring this down what should I do?
-tune powder
-tune seating depth
-different projectile (might be at edge of stability)
-better brass
-better dies (FL Hornady dies, but thinking bushing dies)

I'm a little worried the 168 ELDs are on edge of stability at distance (Berger calculator would suggest this), so a different projectile could be worth trying.
Of course could try turning my load (seating depth and/or powder) and could try for a bit more velocity, don't want to change from Varget if I can help it.

My guess is my brass isn't great so should start there, and invest in better dies. No point in speeding time and money on a bunch of different tests if my brass isn't very consistent. But at same time a 50fps ES probably isn't all down to the brass.

Shooting on some electronic targets i some decent wind I'm happy with .7moa vertical at 300y, but 1.8moa of vertical at 600y isn't great.

300y
View attachment 8786136

600y
View attachment 8786135

Save money on the dies for the moment.


Start by replacing the brass.
Believe it or not, the Hornady brass is way better. Not that I'm recommending you use it, but it is better.
FC brass would be a great improvement.

Lapua? Well, you know where I'm going.

The FC brass is easy to find. Look on the ground at your local range. Find someone who shoots it from a bolt gun and take 20pcs home to experiment with.
You'll be surprised. It might not last for 10-20 loadings, but the price is right.
If you get improvements, then it'll be worth looking into Lapua.
 
Save money on the dies for the moment.


Start by replacing the brass.
Believe it or not, the Hornady brass is way better. Not that I'm recommending you use it, but it is better.
FC brass would be a great improvement.

Lapua? Well, you know where I'm going.

The FC brass is easy to find. Look on the ground at your local range. Find someone who shoots it from a bolt gun and take 20pcs home to experiment with.
You'll be surprised. It might not last for 10-20 loadings, but the price is right.
If you get improvements, then it'll be worth looking into Lapua.
Yeah, the more I research/think about it I'm thinking the brass is shit.
Sizing the 3 different types of brass at the same time suggested the S&B brass wasn't great and the weights just confirmed it.
Might hang on to the SB brass for hunting ammo (don't care if I loose it).
If I can find a cheap deal on once fired Hornady I'll go that way (new Hornady cost more than Lapua), or I'll get new Sako or Starline brass.

If I get premium brass (Lapua, Peterson, Alpha etc) then I'll get new dies at the same time.
 
I've tried to use the S&B brass in the past. Decades ago, it was made by Norma and it was good stuff.
Currently, their brass is inconsistent in weight and hard as a rock.
I threw away 700 pieces of it so no-one could try and use it.

The Hornady stuff was a major improvement.
If you have Sako brass, try a limited amount, it should show a good improvement in accuracy and SD.
It sizes like butter also.


There's nothing wrong with the Hornady dies you're using.
Stick with them until you're at a point where you think there's more accuracy to be had. Generally, the dies aren't the issue anyway.

One of my 308s showed me it loved the 168 Sierra at just over 2.700.
I had grabbed the set for another rifle that liked 2.807 and loaded them. It shot like shit until I realized my mistake. Cramming then down another .107 brought it back to life.

Don't but new dies just yet.


I just bought a Proof carbon 223 barrel.
I wanted a new set of bushing/micrometer dies for it, but honestly I can't justify the expense when I already have 4 proven sets of 223 dies.
If the barrel doesn't shoot, it won't be because of the dies. (Or brass, or projectiles)
 
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That’s all BS about bushing dies. I have been using bushing dies in multiple calibers for over 20 years and load very accurate ammo. Look around the internet, and you will find someone saying the way you do it is wrong also. The internet is like that. You have to find what works for you and use it. I use what give me excellent results and is the least amount of work. Why I stopped deburring the flash holes.
Again, I have not personally proved or disproved any of these comments found on the internet. I was simply replying to the question asked about why I do it the way I do it. I was very inexperienced back then, I read some things that may or may not be true, and I decided to go a certain route. The route I went has given me really good results.

That's why I also mentioned that he will most likely have adequate results even with a bushing die, given that his components are up to it and his reloading techniques are good. Too many people here having high success rates with bushing dies and non bushing. Same with mandrel vs no mandrel.
 
Again, I have not personally proved or disproved any of these comments found on the internet. I was simply replying to the question asked about why I do it the way I do it. I was very inexperienced back then, I read some things that may or may not be true, and I decided to go a certain route. The route I went has given me really good results.

That's why I also mentioned that he will most likely have adequate results even with a bushing die, given that his components are up to it and his reloading techniques are good. Too many people here having high success rates with bushing dies and non bushing. Same with mandrel vs no mandrel.

That’s why it’s not good to keep repeating the same rumors on the internet. Some people take them as fact.
 
That’s why it’s not good to keep repeating the same rumors on the internet. Some people take them as fact.
I thought I was pretty clear with my wording that what I heard/read was not conclusive and I had not proved/disproved anything, so draw your own conclusions from that pretty much.

I agree to just provide misinformation in bad faith isn't a good idea because someone can take it as fact. If I wasn't very clear, that wasn't my intention.
 
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I checked the weight and length of once fired brass, 10x Sako 9x Hornady 20x S&B.
The S&B brass is definitely all over the place when it comes to weight and length compared to the other two brands.
The SD/ES of the brass weights were as follows:
Sako: 0.46/1.4
Horn: 0.7/2.3
S&B: 0.9/3.1

I'm going to get a bushing die also, resizing some brass today the expander ball felt like shit on many of the case.
Much better on the Hornaday and Sako brass, but I really don't think that's helping either.

Do you rate the Hornady bushing dies, or do I just go straight for Redding/Forster?
Only input I have on dies, is going from Lyman to Lee to Hornady... much much nicer dies, even has the floating bullet guide thing in the Hornady die that makes sure to align the projectile before it starts seating. Also just felt smoother, and my groups tightened up over the OLD lyman dies from like I duno early 00's to the Lee's both felt and seemed pretty minimum effort compared to the Hornady. Never used Redding. Maybe that helps, maybe not.
 
Anyone with a go-to load for 168 tipped matchking? I've got like 200 of them and some winchester brass, varget and h4895. Would like to try them out at 1000 so was thinking 44-45 grains of varget or 42-42.5 H4895 and 2.830" to start with.
That’s one of the Sierra projectiles I bought when doing real load development. I couldn’t get them to shoot like I wanted, but otherwise load it similar to a 168/169 SMK.
 
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Anyone with a go-to load for 168 tipped matchking? I've got like 200 of them and some winchester brass, varget and h4895. Would like to try them out at 1000 so was thinking 44-45 grains of varget or 42-42.5 H4895 and 2.830" to start with.
I’d say you’re right in the ballpark. 168gr TMKs shoot great for me. My go-to load is 44.5gr N150 in Lapua brass, but undoubtedly, Varget would work just as well. I have found N150 to match Varget grain for grain in my .308. To be honest, in my barrel, I have not found a powder that shoots poorly with 168gr TMKs.

John
 
So I'm fairly new to reloading. Less than 2 years. I don't recall what I had read and researched back then. However, something had led me to believe that bushing dies "might" impose some potential issues, maybe donuts. I don't recall.

Another theory, a bushing will make the OD uniform, thus leaving any inconsistencies on the neck thickness to be transferred to the ID. This is what's in direct contact with your bullet so I would prefer the ID inconsistencies be ironed out and pushed out to the OD.

Even though I'm not very experienced, my results have been pretty good. I have also not proved or disproved the things I read online. I think even if you use a bushing die, considering your process is good and components are good, you should be able to get adequate results.
I have both Forster bushing dies and FL sizing dies honed for my Lapua brass. Both work, but I prefer the custom honed dies (without the buttons) followed by a pass through a mandrel. Many ways to skin a cat and not sure I could shoot the difference, but that’s the route I chose many years ago.
 
When they first came on the market , I along with probably many others called Sierra asking if they had any load data for their TMK . The answer I got was just use the data listed for the SMK's. Also, same answer when the 169 SMK hit the market.
That's a crap answer if you ask me, along the lines of, "it will probably be fine".
 
My brother was launching the temu 175 smk from his trg22 yesterday at a thousand with pretty impressive consistency.

45gr of varget, 2.8" oal, AAC brass, not sure what primer. I think cci 250.

We're about 80' above sea level. Da was 1680.
 
Anyone with a go-to load for 168 tipped matchking? I've got like 200 of them and some winchester brass, varget and h4895. Would like to try them out at 1000 so was thinking 44-45 grains of varget or 42-42.5 H4895 and 2.830" to start with.
1760901485708.jpeg


These were 168 Berger Hybrids but I use the same for 168 TMK'S.

XM21 clone with a 20" Krieger barrel.
43.0 grains of 2520, Lapua brass, and CCI BR primers. 2" groups consistently at 300 yds. Confirmed single digit ES with a MagnetoSpeed.