Re: .45 1911 Cast Bullet Dilemma,
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just cast 230gr RN bullets out of wheel weights. I water quenched them, lubed, ran through sizing die and loaded. I never had an issue. As stated above you shouldn't need a gas check for the .45acp.</div></div>
My casting/reloading process is quite similiar. I use a 195-200 LSWC beveled-base 4-gang SAECO #68 mold. The weight will vary according to lead content of the wheel weights. The shape is akin to the fabulous H&G 68. The beveled base on the bullet is nice because it makes locating the bullet in a tightly flared casing easier than the flat base does. I also quench my cast bullets by dropping them directly into water (away from the melting pot!!!). Quenching adds just a little hardness. I prefer the SAECO mold because it's heavier, steel, and holds a constant temp longer than the Lee molds. The steel "stands a beating" more than the aluminum--hit the sprue plate and the mold stays put with the steel's weight--do that with aluminum molds and you fight to hold the mold in its' place in space because it's so light. (with the aluminum molds, [even 6-gang] you'll need a second mold at some point anyway so's you can swap out the hot mold--when the first mold gets really, really hot, you'll start smearing lead across the top with the cutting sprue, and you wanna avoid that. By the time the SAECO gets that hot, you'll wanna break anyway. And the heavier steel mold is nice to have if you're dropping bullets into a bucket. I've found that the higher I drop, the faster I can work; if I have to be concerned about 'placement' [and not wetting the mold!!! at the same time] it slows me down. I drop into a 5gal bucket from a good table-height--a minimum momentum of movement is aided by the heavier mold.)
I'll go with a 1-20 ratio linotype-to- wheel weights *when* I have linotype. If I don't have it conveniently on hand, I'll just use straight wheel weights and not worry about leading. It's never severe enough to bother me (and I'll go through 4-500 rounds between cleanings. Chore-boy (or any other scouring) copper pad for pots and pans is 'WAY more economical than a Lewis Lead Remover kit for cleaning lead out of a barrel. Find yourself a source of PURE copper scouring pads... they're harder and harder to find, but I still found some at the local Walmart last year. Bring a magnet with you so's you can prove your scouring pad isn't a copper-coated steel mesh--though that won't really hurt the barrel's lands and grooves IF your cleaning rod spins as you push the mesh through the bore. Steel/copper should be avoided if you're using a cheaper cleaning rod that doesn't spin in the handle. All you need is an old worn out brush attached to your rod. Wrap the mesh around it so's it's really hard to push-pull through, and start scrubbing (dry). Do it long enough so the barrel gets warm in your hand and inspect. Make sure to push/pull completely through on each stroke. No worries even with pure lead wheel weights with this cleaning method--so long as you size your barrel first and then lube and size your bullets .001-.002" over.
You can drive the un-"tinned" bullets at ~850 fps with no worries; an old favorite is 5.4 - 5-7 WW231. Anything comparable will work; for a time I think I was using 5.2-5.4 of 700X--but I disclaim these numbers--use your head (no offense meant) and consult some legitimate references for lead loads as (of course) I'm not trustworthy for quoted loads.
Ya cain't hardly drive a 200-230gr 45acp hard enough to require gas checks unless you're suicidal.
p.s... "Brinell hardness"? We don't need no stinkin' Brinell hardness scale... not for 45acp, not really--unless you really just gotta know. Wheel weights at 1/20 are so hard I can't scribe them with moderate pressure with a steel nail, so I don't worry about it.
As to lube, *any* legitimate lube will do--bee's wax, red, blue, green--you'll have to experiment and see which smells and smokes "too much" for your tastes vs.your budget. Outdoors I almost never care except in the still calm of the hot summer when the odor and smoke just hangs... excepting for bee's wax, any colored lube is good enough for me on those days, and BW is just fine all the rest of the time when there's a 3-5mph breeze.
