noteworthy? It may be a vanilla version but any good?
Hard to look at Colt Deltas with such bad quality.
Hard to look at Colt Deltas with such bad quality.
Sidearms & Scatterguns 5" Ruger 10mm?
- Thread starter SporterII
- Start date
The Ruger 10mm 1911 is a very nicely built solid pistol just like the Ruger .45 1911 pistol.
It offers a great blend of value and performance.
However before you buy one you need to check out the SIG P220 Elite in 10mm (A bit hard to find)
https://www.ballisticmag.com/2015/07/21/gun-review-sig-sauers-p220-match-elite-10mm-handgun/
When you are shooting Extra high power 10mm loads like from Underwood ammo, the 1911 frame just isn't up to it quite as well & you'll find shooting side by side the SIG one just feels a bit better with hot loads.
Now if you plan to run mild to standard 10mm loads then for the money the Ruger is an excellent pistol
On the cheaper 1911 side, the Rock Island 10mm ones are well priced & featured, but don't like hot ammo without some work.
Then you can move up to the STI ones either in 1911 or 2011 frames
I would however give that SIG one a check at the same time as the Ruger one depending on what ammo you want to shoot.
In my case I settled on the SIG and the STI because if I'm not going to shoot nuclear hot loads then what was the point of 10mm?
One note just for fun is that .45 super out of a 6" barrel has similar penetration to 10mm assuming similar copper bullets and nuclear hot loads.
It offers a great blend of value and performance.
However before you buy one you need to check out the SIG P220 Elite in 10mm (A bit hard to find)
https://www.ballisticmag.com/2015/07/21/gun-review-sig-sauers-p220-match-elite-10mm-handgun/
When you are shooting Extra high power 10mm loads like from Underwood ammo, the 1911 frame just isn't up to it quite as well & you'll find shooting side by side the SIG one just feels a bit better with hot loads.
Now if you plan to run mild to standard 10mm loads then for the money the Ruger is an excellent pistol
On the cheaper 1911 side, the Rock Island 10mm ones are well priced & featured, but don't like hot ammo without some work.
Then you can move up to the STI ones either in 1911 or 2011 frames
I would however give that SIG one a check at the same time as the Ruger one depending on what ammo you want to shoot.
In my case I settled on the SIG and the STI because if I'm not going to shoot nuclear hot loads then what was the point of 10mm?
One note just for fun is that .45 super out of a 6" barrel has similar penetration to 10mm assuming similar copper bullets and nuclear hot loads.
I have the rock island and the only thing I can say bad is that it throws brass into orbit. I heard this is normal. Is this true with the 10mm 1911s? I tried a 23lb recoil spring and it didn't help much.
It's common, but it's not "normal". Tune the gun correctly to solve it; that does not include a 23lb recoil spring. Go back to a 17-18 lb recoil spring to avoid battering the barrel lugs, then install a flat bottom firing pin stop and an extra power mainspring (hammer spring). The reason for setting it up this way is to better make use of the hammer cocking effort to delay unlocking and slide speed. This lets the gun live longer and makes it nicer to shoot. Sigs are much harder to tune for hot loads in my experience.
It's important to realize that most 10mm ammo from the big manufacturers is really nothing more than 40 S&W in a longer case, and that most factory guns are set up to run this ammo. Otherwise they'd have a lot of complaints from people saying their gun won't cycle. When you shoot full power 10mm in a gun set up like that though, you get violent ejection, increased recoil, and sometimes other issues.
As to the Ruger - I'd choose that one before a Delta Elite, and my choice has nothing to do with price. Heresy to some, but based on experience.
That was exactly the route I was going next I just haven't messed with it since this summer. I pulled that 23 lb spring after 1 range trip of a few mags. It was clear that it didn't help much. Thanks for the help. I agree that factory 10mm is weak. The sig stuff seems right in line with 40 s&w loads. My reloads are hot, 180 fmj with bluedot and pulled 180 hst with longshot. I agree with above, if they aren't loaded hot, no sense in going 10mm.
For 10mm and penetration through metal barriers and then on to stopping power after that:
Underwood 140 grain solid copper, 1500fps 700ft lbs. energy. Will punch through a 1/10th inch steel plate and then hit what's behind it with as much power as a 9mm +P+
If you like to burn up your chronograph, they have 100 grain 1825fps 740 ft. lbs. energy.
If you want to put down some big mean critters they have 220 grain hard cast lead at 1200fps 703 ft. lbs. energy.
Underwood 140 grain solid copper, 1500fps 700ft lbs. energy. Will punch through a 1/10th inch steel plate and then hit what's behind it with as much power as a 9mm +P+
If you like to burn up your chronograph, they have 100 grain 1825fps 740 ft. lbs. energy.
If you want to put down some big mean critters they have 220 grain hard cast lead at 1200fps 703 ft. lbs. energy.
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