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6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

sobrbiker883

sobrbiker883

Lt. Colonel
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 18, 2003
7,112
207
Gilbert AZ
#1
I'm having a 6.5CM screwed together here shortly and am debating whether or not to have it threaded and a POF triple port brake timed fo it.

I'm going 26" as I want 139 Scenars or 140 Amaxs to boogie along at 2800-2825 with ease. I've also considered doing 24+brake.

I shoot my 308 and 7-08 without and have no problems driving the rifle to spot my own hits, so is the brake just going to be something top piss everyone else off that I shoot with ot do those of you that run the really see a benefit?
 
#2
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

if you don't need one with 7mm-08 you are just pissing off your fellow shooters. to me the only reason to use a brake is spotting shots from akward positions, you damn sure don't need it for recoil reduction. i have brake on my 7mm-08 strictly to help in solo spotting plus i had to have it threaded to run my can sometimes so i figured why the hell not.

send it!!!
 
#3
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

For me, a brake is primarily about not losing your target after you pull the trigger, and not necessarily making the recoil softer on my shoulder (though that is a consideration - more later).

It's nice being able to spot for yourself. Especially in an area where competent spotters are few and far between.

I'm on all manner of blood thinners because of a heart attack (at 33 years old no less), so I bruise extremely easily. Even the slightest tap makes me look like I've was pounded by a baseball bat.

A brake helps to alleviate that some.

Though not a 6.5 CM, I use a brake on my 6.5 Grendel, and the felt recoil isn't much more than my 17 Remington or 20 Tac. Seeing my hits (misses?) at 600 yards in order to make my own corrections is a result of the brake.
 
#4
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

As you are a match shooter, and I assume the rifle is for such, a brake will be of some benefit reacquiring targets quickly.

Besides, the guy to your right and left are running em. Who gives a shit where your muzzle blast lands? I sure don't.
 
#5
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

As for recoil.... you don't need one. It will just make you loud and annoying.
If you want to stay on target easily and spot hits/misses then go with a break.

I think on the SA calibers its pure shooters preference.
 
#6
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Team-Send-It</div><div class="ubbcode-body">to me the only reason to use a brake is spotting shots from akward positions, you damn sure don't need it for recoil reduction. </div></div>

That's what I'm wrestling with. Recoil has nothing to do with it, trying to follow up and transition target to target say, support side from a barricade is where I really may use it.

Maybe I'll go 24+brake. I'd think I should still be able to hit 2800-2825 with 140's...
 
#9
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sobrbiker883</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Maybe I'll go 24+brake. I'd think I should still be able to hit 2800-2825 with 140's... </div></div>

You could do that easily with a .260. Jus sayin'
smile.gif
 
#12
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Swan</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sobrbiker883</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Maybe I'll go 24+brake. I'd think I should still be able to hit 2800-2825 with 140's... </div></div>

You could do that easily with a .260. Jus sayin'
smile.gif
</div></div>

And just as easily done with the Creedmoor.

I am not a fan of brakes as I have been blasted with them but I have been thinking about braking my .308 for the same reasons. I just don't like to blast people. Guess I am more considerate of other match shooters than some.
 
#16
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

The POF brake I already have is quite effective, I'm not too woried about what brake to use if I do.


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mike</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Get a brake, plain and simple. The target reacquisition is worth it any way you slice it. </div></div>
This is why I was thinking of doing it, since this rifle is a Tubb contour in a A3 stock its not "heavy artillery" like my 308 is. I've shot unbraked with the exception of my POF rifle and haven't had problems (but I'm also always a bridesmaid and never a bride, so I'm looking at where I can make up time/acquisition).


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rob01</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> <span style="font-weight: bold">
I am not a fan of brakes as I have been blasted with them </span>but I have been thinking about braking my .308 for the same reasons. I just don't like to blast people. Guess I am more considerate of other match shooters than some. </div></div>

-that's exactly where I'm coming from as well. But with more and more shooters blasting me these days, its almost a "if you can't beat 'em, join 'em" scenario.

I'm not going supressed, so the cost of threading would only be for a brake and I'm still at a financial point where every time I look at something I think I "need" I automatically convert the expense into how many boxes of bullets and pounds of powder. But I already have the brake, and am getting buddy pricing on the metalwork.....
 
#17
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

I have a brake on everything except my .223's, I dont shoot at matches often though so I dont have to worry about neighbors. I wouldn't change it either, even my 25-06 shooting 100 smk's has a brake, it almost doesn't move when it goes off. I can see Prairie dogs pop at 100yds through the scope, so obviously spotting misses is easy.
 
#18
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

Get it threaded, and also get a thread protector. That way if you some how feel that you are being annoying, you can run without the brake.
As far as shooting comps and pissing people off, the creedmore with a brake is going to sound tame compared to the 300 win Mags with a brake, and no one feels that they should shoot without a brake.
SScott
 
#19
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jerkface11</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'd shoot it first. </div></div>

If a smith is going to thread my barrel, it is going to be while its indicated and set up for the crowning, not taking an extra trip back....
 
#20
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sunnyside Scott</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> and no one feels that they should shoot without a brake.
SScott </div></div>

Oh yes they do...
 
#21
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

I am with 427Cobra, get a Tubb. I have one on my 260 which is what I take to matches. All the guys I shoot with have brakes and we get in a line and get to shooting. The blast doesn't bother us anymore.

Just like anything else, shouldn't you train to overcome your weaknesses?
 
#22
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

Steve,

Put me down as one of those guys that hates shooting next to a braked rifle in comps.

Last year I took a two day LR course with Sean Little (Hogstooth here on the Hide). I was partnered up as spotter with a nice gentlemen shooting a braked AIAW in 300 mag. After about 250 rounds, over two days, I was beat all to hell. My ears were ringing for a good week afterwards, and I'm still shaking debris from my kit a year later. In short, it was brutal.

I certainly understand someone with a physical problems, needing a braked rifle. But having one just to make your competitor uncomfortable as you are, is a poor reason, IMHO.

I think the physical damage done to the guy shooting next to you, trumps being able to see your hits. Of course if you only shoot by yourself, it does not matter.......

Just IMHO and YMMV,

Bob
 
#23
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

It seems to me that some breaks are worse than others.

I can shoot next to a Badger FTE in .308 and it doesn't seem to bother me much.

My hunting rig with a BOSS in 7RM will wake you up in the morning!
 
#24
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

26" with a brake. If you don't like it then take it off. easy enough.

BTW, if I knew all I had to do was to put a brake on for you to stop shooting next to me I would have done it a long time ago
grin.gif
 
#25
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

I can feel the love brothah!

You talking 26" plus brake, or 26 including brake? What's your CM barrel?

I'd love to go 24 if I was sure I could get 2800-2825 with 139 Scenars and H4350...but I should probably do 26 and just pull the brake if I don't like it.

 
#26
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

My Creedmoor is 28 and my 260 is 26 total, 25 + 1 for the brake. I think I already told you this but I would definitely brake it and go at least 26" of barrel. Worry less about velocity and more on what shoots the best. If you do a 24 you'll avg. it around 2700-2750 which is just fine.
 
#27
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

I don't feel the brake is necessary esp since you can spot your hits with the other rounds mentioned. Never had a brake on my three cm's and never felt I needed one.
 
#28
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

I like brake's. I run them just about all my rifles...even .223's (AR's). Nothing to due with "shoulder" recoil....but for fight picture and spotting my own shots.

As for them being loud...well you should be DOUBLING UP on your hearing protection whenever you shoot. Having just plugs or just muff's on is NOT enough protection when shooting. Speak to your doctor about it.
I wear electronic muffs even when I am hunting. I have lost enough hearing over the years to load noises that I am very careful about it now days.

And I shoot next to people with braked rifles a lot...I do not have an issue with it...again...proper hearing protection is your friend.

You could always have a nice thread protector made so you could run with the brake off when you want to. But after shooting with the brake I bet you will run it more often then not. Just my opinion.

Let us know what you decide on.

Take care,Stan
 
#29
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

I'm running a 30" with no brake. I can usually see my hits at 300 yd or farther, just depends how I'm positioned. I like what Matt suggested and not worrying about the velocity as much. I've got a couple different loads worked up for mine and they are all .5 MOA or better and all perfomed very well out to 1000yd as well. My lighter loads are around 2750 and my hotter loads in the 2850's using H4350. 26" should net you around 2750-2800 which is more than enough IMO.
 
#30
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Snipedogg</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I can usually see my hits at 300 yd or farther, <span style="font-weight: bold">just depends how I'm positioned.</span> </div></div>

Strong side prone, given a few seconds I can usually spot my hits at 100 and out, but the more I shoot, the less I shoot strong side prone with time...

I'm gonna do 26" threaded and go form there.
 
#31
Re: 6.5 Creedmoor-brake or no?

good choice give yourself options. i have tried alot of brakes and honestly for nonremovable brakes i liked the badger thruster the best and it is only $50. removable no doubt roll with the r&d precision it is light and effective.

good luck man. remeber velocity doesn't get you hits accuracy does. i would rather have a rifle that shoots 1/4moa 150fps slower than a load that shoots 1/2moa
 
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