**6 Creedmoor**

owyheerat

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It has nothing to do with performance and everything to do with confidence. I simply shoot 6 Creed better than I do BR.

105s at 2,800 vs 105s at 3,000 makes very little difference down range. Maybe a tenth or two in wind past like 700 yards or so, I just prefer the Creed.

I still have the BR and I’ll still shoot it. I’ll just shoot the Creed more often at matches.
That makes sense. Thanks for the clarification.
Good luck next season
 

scott_gresham

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I just getting back into reloading for my 6 creedmoor, and, sadly, I am at the point of having to buy new consumables. Does anyone have any experience with Vihtavouri N540 with berger 105 match hybrids? I can get 8lbs of viht for a reasonable price, but I have only ever used 4350. It is listed on the viht site as one of the recommended powders, I just wondered if anyone had experience with it.

TIA!
 

schroed62

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They list some info for N540 and 105 Berger on the Vihtavuori rifle reloading data website.
Had the same thoughts of trying N540 but H4350 has not disappointed.
 
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CK1.0

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I wanted to update the thread with what I'm seeing as far as barrel erosion when running kind of slow (~2850fps) and using a healthy bullet-jump (~.100"). This barrel has never been run hotter than that, and bullets have never been closer than 0.100" off the lands since new (other than a handful when new and testing jumps).

FWIW, I'm using the Deep Creek method of finding the lands. On the suggestion of @MilSpecOkie I'm using the exact same piece of brass and bullet to do my measuring, and I will use the same ones for the rest of the barrel's life.

@reubenski pointed out that I might be screwing up my measurements by measuring when the barrel is dirty, and he's right, so looking back, I'm kind of throwing out the measurements I took earlier in the barrel's life because I didn't have anything in my notes indicating whether I was measuring a clean barrel or not (and I can't remember).

Also, think my autocomplete has been deleting the word "near" in my last couple posts earlier in the thread when I'd write "near 2000rds" because after seeing it, it made me paranoid, and I had to go back through my notes and make sure I haven't got the barrel's actual round count screwed up... sorry for any confusion (I confused myself too). The barrel truly has "near 2000rds" on it now at an actual 1800. It was easy for me to verify this because I'm now out of Federal LRP's, which I only had 2000 of, and after getting rounds 1801-2000 ready and loaded, I had to get into a case of CCI 200's to load rounds 2001-2100.

tempImagepPVXaf.png

So now, what I do know is:

I cleaned the barrel/chamber at 1500rds, took a measurement, and got a CBTO of 2.241" using a 112gr Barnes Match Burner.

This morning, with 1800rds on the barrel now, I had a chance to clean the barrel/chamber and take another measurement, same exact brass and bullet as before and got a CBTO of 2.243".

So, while not exactly scientific, I'm a lot more confident in my results this time around with these last two tries, and so far the results are still fairly surprising, in that my results show less than ~0.001" of erosion per 100 rounds - when typically 6mm Creedmoor barrels erode at a rate of 0.006-0.007" per 100rds (per Cal @ www.precisionrifleblog.com who's about as a reliable source as anyone, https://precisionrifleblog.com/2020/03/24/how-fast-does-a-barrel-wear/).

I hate cleaning guns, so I won't promise I'll check it again at 1900rds, but I do plan to clean the gun and measure again after 2000rds down the tube, and I'll again update the thread with those results in case anyone else cares...
 
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howler

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I’m newly reloading 6CM for precision (hope to start competing in PRS once I get load development dialed in) using Lapua brass for a PVA cut barrel.

In an attempt to save a few bucks and out of conscience because it was local, I got a hornady “custom grade” die set and an expanding mandrel (.241”) from 21st century innovation. I’m using the full length sizer to bring the case down, with the expanding ball removed, then the mandrel to make the inside neck as concentric as possible with ~.002” neck tension (dipping case neck in graphite line before the expander).

The problem I’m seeing is I think the FL die is making the neck too small, .265” outside diameter with the total case thick was accounting for .030” of that (so .235” inside diameter before expander mandrel), because after I run the expander mandrel the lip has a bell flair out to .277” until it goes down to the expected .271” outside diameter maybe ten thousands below the lip. Chamfering/deburring isn’t removing the blow out lip and it’s still pretty noticeable.

Do I just cut my losses and switch to the Redding FL bushing sizer with .268” (for use with mandrel) or .271” for no mandrel?

Edit: messed around with it more this evening. Turns out the flare was from lack of lubrication. I’d been using graphite powder dip to lube the necks before the expanding mandrel, but apparently that wasn’t working well as the flare went away once I gave the mandrel a nice rub down with unique case lube. Still on the fence about switching to a Redding bushing die, but I guess I’ll see how these cases go before I make a decision either way.
 
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MilSpecOkie

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I’m newly reloading 6CM for precision (hope to start competing in PRS once I get load development dialed in) using Lapua brass for a PVA cut barrel.

In an attempt to save a few bucks and out of conscience because it was local, I got a hornady “custom grade” die set and an expanding mandrel (.241”) from 21st century innovation. I’m using the full length sizer to bring the case down, with the expanding ball removed, then the mandrel to make the inside neck as concentric as possible with ~.002” neck tension (dipping case neck in graphite line before the expander).

The problem I’m seeing is I think the FL die is making the neck too small, .265” outside diameter with the total case thick was accounting for .030” of that (so .235” inside diameter before expander mandrel), because after I run the expander mandrel the lip has a bell flair out to .277” until it goes down to the expected .271” outside diameter maybe ten thousands below the lip. Chamfering/deburring isn’t removing the blow out lip and it’s still pretty noticeable.

Do I just cut my losses and switch to the Redding FL bushing sizer with .268” (for use with mandrel) or .271” for no mandrel?

Edit: messed around with it more this evening. Turns out the flare was from lack of lubrication. I’d been using graphite powder dip to lube the necks before the expanding mandrel, but apparently that wasn’t working well as the flare went away once I gave the mandrel a nice rub down with unique case lube. Still on the fence about switching to a Redding bushing die, but I guess I’ll see how these cases go before I make a decision either way.
I’d try the Hornady die like you planned on and see how far down the neck gets sized. If it takes it down to say .255 and you have to size it back up .010” or more I would get a bushing die instead. Hornady bushing dies work just fine for me. If you have an annealer then I wouldn’t worry too much about it as it’s not going to over work the brass anymore than most FLS dies.
 

giumau1

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    I’m newly reloading 6CM for precision (hope to start competing in PRS once I get load development dialed in) using Lapua brass for a PVA cut barrel.

    In an attempt to save a few bucks and out of conscience because it was local, I got a hornady “custom grade” die set and an expanding mandrel (.241”) from 21st century innovation. I’m using the full length sizer to bring the case down, with the expanding ball removed, then the mandrel to make the inside neck as concentric as possible with ~.002” neck tension (dipping case neck in graphite line before the expander).

    The problem I’m seeing is I think the FL die is making the neck too small, .265” outside diameter with the total case thick was accounting for .030” of that (so .235” inside diameter before expander mandrel), because after I run the expander mandrel the lip has a bell flair out to .277” until it goes down to the expected .271” outside diameter maybe ten thousands below the lip. Chamfering/deburring isn’t removing the blow out lip and it’s still pretty noticeable.

    Do I just cut my losses and switch to the Redding FL bushing sizer with .268” (for use with mandrel) or .271” for no mandrel?

    Edit: messed around with it more this evening. Turns out the flare was from lack of lubrication. I’d been using graphite powder dip to lube the necks before the expanding mandrel, but apparently that wasn’t working well as the flare went away once I gave the mandrel a nice rub down with unique case lube. Still on the fence about switching to a Redding bushing die, but I guess I’ll see how these cases go before I make a decision either way.
    For you to consider, the SAC modular sizing die for the creedmoors... it's a lifetime investment worth every penny.

    more info here
     
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    reubenski

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    I’m newly reloading 6CM for precision (hope to start competing in PRS once I get load development dialed in) using Lapua brass for a PVA cut barrel.

    In an attempt to save a few bucks and out of conscience because it was local, I got a hornady “custom grade” die set and an expanding mandrel (.241”) from 21st century innovation. I’m using the full length sizer to bring the case down, with the expanding ball removed, then the mandrel to make the inside neck as concentric as possible with ~.002” neck tension (dipping case neck in graphite line before the expander).

    The problem I’m seeing is I think the FL die is making the neck too small, .265” outside diameter with the total case thick was accounting for .030” of that (so .235” inside diameter before expander mandrel), because after I run the expander mandrel the lip has a bell flair out to .277” until it goes down to the expected .271” outside diameter maybe ten thousands below the lip. Chamfering/deburring isn’t removing the blow out lip and it’s still pretty noticeable.

    Do I just cut my losses and switch to the Redding FL bushing sizer with .268” (for use with mandrel) or .271” for no mandrel?

    Edit: messed around with it more this evening. Turns out the flare was from lack of lubrication. I’d been using graphite powder dip to lube the necks before the expanding mandrel, but apparently that wasn’t working well as the flare went away once I gave the mandrel a nice rub down with unique case lube. Still on the fence about switching to a Redding bushing die, but I guess I’ll see how these cases go before I make a decision either way.
    Try using the Hornady die as it is intended. With the sizing button. It is over-sizing the neck because it's relying on the button to open it back up. Plus it's designed for Hornady brass which has thinner necks more than likely. But you want to use Lapua brass and a mandrel from another company. If that's what you actually want to do, I'd recommend using a bushing FL die so you can tune the sizing to match the brass and mandrel.
     
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    ReaperDriver

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    I just getting back into reloading for my 6 creedmoor, and, sadly, I am at the point of having to buy new consumables. Does anyone have any experience with Vihtavouri N540 with berger 105 match hybrids? I can get 8lbs of viht for a reasonable price, but I have only ever used 4350. It is listed on the viht site as one of the recommended powders, I just wondered if anyone had experience with it.

    TIA!
    No experience with the N540, but I'm having amazing success with IMR 4451 and 105 Hybrids in both my 6 CM Bolt (AI AT - Proof barrel) and my new JP 6CM upper. My bolt gun also really loves the 109 LR Hybrids with 4451 as well. I find that powder is a great substitute for H4350 and is typically more often available.
     
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    Big Timber

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    I've used it with hornady lrp and Lapua srp brass. I didn't have any hangfires in either brass , but my sd was greater then either rl26 or h4350. My sd was in the teens with sta ball, which for me is good enough for plinking ammo.
     
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    scott_gresham

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    I've used it with hornady lrp and Lapua srp brass. I didn't have any hangfires in either brass , but my sd was greater then either rl26 or h4350. My sd was in the teens with sta ball, which for me is good enough for plinking ammo.
    I had the same high sds with staball and lapua srp brass with berger 105s. I would be fine with the sds with hornady pills, but not those berger gold nuggets.
     

    TheOfficeT-Rex

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    I also got hangfires with staball 6.5 and peterson SRP brass, but it's been cold lately.
     

    XikoPlavi

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    Im gonna run 6creed eventually (meaning in my bolt gun put a threaded barrel on). Right now I’m doing 6.5 creed on that gun and a gas ar10.

    So, I’ve been stocking up on 6mm stuff (bullets, brass). Got the SAC Creedmoor dies and Redding comp bushing for the 6.5. (Have not switched to the sac yet).

    This thread seems to show that most use SRP brass lapua , even Peterson. I see some using hornady LRP.

    I wanted to get Peterson LRP but can’t find in stock yet.

    Is it safe to say most shoot SRP for 6creed or is LRP preferred.

    I have a good Amy of lapua SRP

    I was gonna get some of both (I know most people just stick with one or the other BUTTT I’m trying both and wanted Peterson)?

    Is large the better bet (if so why does lapua not make large)?
     

    acourvil

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    When I first got my 6 Creed, I used large primer. Then small primer was easily available, I never really saw any performance difference. If you are shooting hot loads, there may be a benefit to small primer because pockets and web area have more material and should be more resistant to expanding. But i have never shot hot enough loads where I think it would make a difference..
     
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    Hickswr

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    Im gonna run 6creed eventually (meaning in my bolt gun put a threaded barrel on). Right now I’m doing 6.5 creed on that gun and a gas ar10.

    So, I’ve been stocking up on 6mm stuff (bullets, brass). Got the SAC Creedmoor dies and Redding comp bushing for the 6.5. (Have not switched to the sac yet).

    This thread seems to show that most use SRP brass lapua , even Peterson. I see some using hornady LRP.

    I wanted to get Peterson LRP but can’t find in stock yet.

    Is it safe to say most shoot SRP for 6creed or is LRP preferred.

    I have a good Amy of lapua SRP

    I was gonna get some of both (I know most people just stick with one or the other BUTTT I’m trying both and wanted Peterson)?

    Is large the better bet (if so why does lapua not make large)?

    The only advantage to LRP brass is if you don’t have SR primers but have LR primers.

    If you already have Lapua 6CM brass then you already have the best brass available.
     
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    XikoPlavi

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    Thanks. Yeah have 500 lapua 6mm already. I may not even mess with the LRP then. I am aware of hot loads doing better in SRP for pressure. That’s the same with 6.5. I guess I just don’t get why most people use large for 6.5creed

    So far I’ve reloaded my 6.5 with large only but I do have smalls for the 6.5 also

    Anyway, thanks
     

    XikoPlavi

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    And BTW I can’t find any 4451 powder around but I’ll keep looking
     

    just browsing

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    Anyone have a good load with 4350 and 110 A-Tips?

    Actually hoping to run them a little slower, between 3000-3050 to see how they do recoil wise.
     

    rancher5

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    Anyone have a good load with 4350 and 110 A-Tips?

    Actually hoping to run them a little slower, between 3000-3050 to see how they do recoil wise.
    ATips and 40.5 H4350 = 3098fps, I did no load development, shot bugholes, I,d dial powder back so my speed is around 3050. This a KRF prefit barrel for a Sake 26" .Its a fast bullet compare to 115 DTACs which Iv usually shoot.
    of course start lower work up.
     

    impactaddict

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    With all the talk about 6CM at Dasher speeds, I thought I would give it a try too.

    Rifle: AIAT --> 26" Benchmark
    Powder: 39.5gn H4350 --> 2890fps
    Primer: CCI 200
    Brass: Hornady 6CM --> .001 neck tension
    Bullet: 115DTAC non-moly --> .005 jump
    SD: 7.6

    In all my other rifle loads, I use Berger bullets. Jump testing finds a standout and I'll roll with it so that was the plan with the DTAC. Testing did not seem to go well at first, so I worked my way back to the lands from a 20thou jump. Ended up with a very slight jump at .005 - so I'll roll with that for now. Was really hoping for a long jump. I guess they just like minimal jump in my barrel. Does anyone else have this experience with DTAC?

    I will mention that I could watch the bullets print holes on paper, so I'm excited about the possibility of spotting trace in my scope. I've never shot a round where this was possible.
     

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    Kentucreed6

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    With all the talk about 6CM at Dasher speeds, I thought I would give it a try too.

    Rifle: AIAT stock --> 26" Benchmark
    Powder: 39.5gn H4350 --> 2890fps
    Primer: CCI 200
    Brass: Hornady 6CM --> .001 neck tension
    Bullet: 115DTAC non-moly --> .005 jump
    SD: 7.6

    In all my other rifle loads, I use Berger bullets. Jump testing finds a standout and I'll roll with it so that was the plan with the DTAC. Testing did not seem to go well at first, so I worked my way back to the lands from a 20thou jump. Ended up with a very slight jump at .005 - so I'll roll with that for now. Was really hoping for a long jump. I guess they just like minimal jump in my barrel. Does anyone else have this experience with DTAC?

    I will mention that I could watch the bullets print holes on paper, so I'm excited about the possibility of spotting trace in my scope. I've never shot a round where this was possible.
    I’ve shot Dtacs at 2850-2890 and around 3000fps. I always jumped them from .060-.090 on a fresh barrel and never adjusted for life of barrels. At the lower speed it’s much nicer to shoot and spot trace and impacts. There’s no real performance loss at the lower speed
     
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    impactaddict

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    If targets would have printed with a longer jump, I would have rolled with that. Nothing did any good from .02 - .09 so I abandoned it. Maybe prematurely?
     

    CK1.0

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    I'd advocate trying the longer jump again, worth a try... chances are (and this goes for all of us, all of the time) the groups we see on paper are as much about how good of a day we're having, as much as anything else we're up to... that's why it's probably a good idea to try anything/everything again just to be sure it wasn't a fluke before getting locked into cement.

    I've shot thousands of DTAC's (when we could get them 😩) and they worked from .060" off and further back for me, think the last barrel I ran them in liked them with around ~0.080" of jump IIRC. YMMV.

    And as I've already been sort of preaching, I still totally dig running the 6CM like a Dasher... accurate and fun, and haven't missed a shot yet that I could blame on the round moving too slow lol.




    >-> To follow up on post #594 - between working too much and shitty weather, I just got my current barrel up to 2000rds.

    I had a mishap with my original piece of brass and bullet I was using to measure throat erosion (dropped it and it took a good hit off the floor, then nearly couldn't find the sucker, and then ruined the bullet because I forgot to chamfer the case when resetting it). So no data for rounds 1800-1900 as I'd planned.

    Cleaned the barrel/chamber at 1900rds, measured distance to the lands with a new brass/bullet combo using the Deep Creek Method, and got 2.248" BTO (BTO measured using the Hornady comparator with 243 insert).

    Shot another 100rds, rounds 1901-2000.

    Cleaned the barrel/chamber again, measured distance to the lands with the same brass/bullet combo as at 1900rds (using the Deep Creek Method and Hornady comparator again), and got 2.249" BTO (maybe 2.2495", or add another .0005" to be more conservative, say 2.250" ).

    So, seems crazy, but by never running this barrel faster than 2900fps, never loading closer than .100" off the lands, I'm only seeing ~.001" - .002" of throat erosion per 100rds... and I'm still hitting 1/2moa plates at 1000 yards and don't seem to be having any more hardship than usual hitting anything else out to 1250.

    I haven't shot any honest to goodness 100 yard groups, or groups on paper, period, in forever... I plan on doing some of that in the near future and checking up on how the barrel is printing/performing in that respect soon.
     

    High Desert duck

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    Quick up date on the 6 creedmoor I’ve been rpunning for last 6 months. Out of projectiles so I’m going back to my 25gt. Pulled the barrel last night after measuring erosion and giving it its first patch since 100 rounds. as I posted earlier the erosion has been super consistent at .015 per 250 rounds.

    total shots now 1251. erosion over the last 250 rounds more than doubled to .035. The last 150 were Berger 105 boat tail at 3110 jumping .005 at the beginning of this set and ending at a jump of .040, 250 rounds later.

    Had a couple of longer (900 yard) shots fall .2 mil short. Didn’t get the chance to chrony or group it as I didn’t have any more loaded. But I think it was going south. I missed some small targets that I normally would have hit but who knows but I could have been me. I still have the barrel I might throw it back on later this year and check it out.
     
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    Snaz

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    Reworked some loads to account for a year/1200 rounds of throat erosion. I've shot 200 rounds of Hornady 108 ELD-M factory ammo and 1k rounds of 110gr Atips w/41.4 gr of H4350 0.030" off of the lands.

    By my figures, I had 0.032" of throat erosion in those 1200 rounds.

    I measured the distance to the lands w/a Hornady tool, then loaded 41.4gr @ 0.030, 0.060, & 0.100" off of the new measurement. Surprisingly, the 0.100" off of the lands shot the best, picture below.

    AI AT 24" 1-8 twist Bartlien bbl
    110gr Atips
    41.4gr H4350
    Lapua SRP twice fired
    CCI 400
    CBOL: 2.235"
     

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    EMengden

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    Hey Everyone, I am working up a load for my new MPA BA PMR Pro in 6CM. I have done an initial seating depth test, and found that the rifle really likes .050 - .060 off the lands, so that is where all my rounds are are seated. I just did a 12 round load/ladder test this afternoon, and want to share my results for some feedback. I dont want to go any higher in velocity and want to keep it below 3000fps, which my test has done. I am wondering if I should try out a 5 round load test between 42.2 and 42.4, or possibly between 42.8 and 43.2 (see chart). Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks!

    Components are: Hornady 108 ELD-M, Hornady brass, CCI 200 primers, WinStaball 6.5 powder. Brass is all FL sized, trimmed, chamfered.

    1646258310377.png
     

    NH4X

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    Hey Everyone, I am working up a load for my new MPA BA PMR Pro in 6CM. I have done an initial seating depth test, and found that the rifle really likes .050 - .060 off the lands, so that is where all my rounds are are seated. I just did a 12 round load/ladder test this afternoon, and want to share my results for some feedback. I dont want to go any higher in velocity and want to keep it below 3000fps, which my test has done. I am wondering if I should try out a 5 round load test between 42.2 and 42.4, or possibly between 42.8 and 43.2 (see chart). Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks!

    Components are: Hornady 108 ELD-M, Hornady brass, CCI 200 primers, WinStaball 6.5 powder. Brass is all FL sized, trimmed, chamfered.

    View attachment 7819205

    Relaying data per 2022 Hodgdon Annual Manual : 43 gr is their max @ 3080 fps , 59,500 psi ,24" barrel ,same brass, WNLR primer ,same bullet .

    Barrel may speed up ,may not as it gets rounds through it.

    Some pick a speed ,and play with seating depth , others find where it groups best with powder charge ,then play with seating depth . Your choice . When I worked my load, I wanted 3000 fps or a tad over. I started .020 off ,got to speed ,but groups weren't quite as good as I expected. Set bullet .010 off ( 108 eldm ) and groups got as small as me and my rifle are capable of producing ( real small , I'm happy ).

    Thoughts were asked for, and furnished ....nothing more or less. Just one man's experience. Best of luck to you ,and happy shootin .

    Iffin ya already know the above ,disregard this post........I was bored.
     

    CK1.0

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    Hey Everyone, I am working up a load for my new MPA BA PMR Pro in 6CM. I have done an initial seating depth test, and found that the rifle really likes .050 - .060 off the lands, so that is where all my rounds are are seated. I just did a 12 round load/ladder test this afternoon, and want to share my results for some feedback. I dont want to go any higher in velocity and want to keep it below 3000fps, which my test has done. I am wondering if I should try out a 5 round load test between 42.2 and 42.4, or possibly between 42.8 and 43.2 (see chart). Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks!

    Components are: Hornady 108 ELD-M, Hornady brass, CCI 200 primers, WinStaball 6.5 powder. Brass is all FL sized, trimmed, chamfered.

    View attachment 7819205

    FWIW, I'm one of those "pick a speed" guys who doesn't believe in "nodes"...

    ...and you probably shouldn't be doing this yet unless you've already got ~150rds on the barrel (because it's going to speed up before it settles down).

    So, with that out of the way: if you only shot 12 rounds, then you don't have enough data to make a determination about anything.

    You do have a coarse idea of how many grains equals roughly what speed you get, pushing that bullet in that barrel (which honestly, from my point of view, is all you need really).

    Traditionally, if you're looking for one of those mythical "nodes", you'd need to shoot some more strings (the more the merrier, or at least: more shots = more data) to make sure none of those speeds were flukes and/or to make sure you're getting something that you can discern as repeatable. Remember, to acquire enough data that it actually enables you to make any kind of truly informed determination you'd have to shoot the barrel out.. but don't let facts deter you, just pick a number: like... 2-3 more strings of 12 should suffice..?

    Then, and only then, will you be able to discover the magic velocity flat spot that exists somewhere in there, even when a varied amount of powder (fuel) is used (of course, pay no mind to the fact that the velocity staying the same with either less or more fuel being used makes zero sense, and that no one can seem to find any evidence that any expert in combustion and/or actual Rocket Scientist, living or dead, believes in, or has mentioned such a phenomenon)? But, we're looking for nodes, not more facts, so...

    ...shoot a few more strings, look at your ouija board data graphs of the statistically-speaking, minuscule sample of shots you recorded, and then you can make a better guess determination of where your node is... after you've burned up some more components.

    Oh yeah, if you don't already have a scale that measures to 0.002gr/0.001g resolution, chances are the small sliver of data you have collected is too imprecise to be usable, so you'll have to do the whole thing over again once you get a better scale.

    I'm sorry if I sound like a snarky jerk, I don't mean to, just sharing a different point of view is all... LOL!

    I advocate picking a known-safe, lower-to-middle of the road charge weight, and shooting for fun for a while, then when your barrel has settled in, figure out how fast you want to go and then do your best to make sure every charge you drop weighs the same down to the kernel (or as close as you can get to that), ...can pretty much bet you'll end up in "your own node" that way. Good luck!
     
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    CK1.0

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    2100rds on the barrel, not seeing anything that says it's time to pull it yet...

    Lapua LRP 22-250 case (necked up with a .241 mandrel and fire-formed into 6CM)
    41gr Sta-Ball
    112gr Matchburner
    CCI 200 LRP
    CBTO 2.145" (jumping .103" to the lands)


    1,250 yards IPSC

    tempImageyZnq6W.png


    32022 strelok.PNG

    750 yards small IPSC

    tempImageNeo6Qk.png

    750 yards mini IPSC

    tempImageEnSjNh.png

    300 yards (pulled a couple, could've been better, only shot one, it's not the barrel's fault that I suck at groups)

    Ballistic-X-Export-2022-03-17 17:03:59.097700.jpgBallistic-X-Export-2022-03-17 17:03:03.513222.jpgtempImage5iUulp.png
     

    EMengden

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    Jan 21, 2012
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    Connecticut
    Hi Everyone,

    I was able to get my hands on a good amount of H4350 through Midsouth this past week, and put together an initial load test. Instead of only doing one shot per powder charge, I did 3 shot groups. All but one group shot under .5", so I was pretty pleased wit those results. Below is a chart of my results, and based on my numbers and plotting, I think it looks pretty promising between 40.2-40.4 and 41.6-41.8. I would actually prefer to stay in the 40.2-40.4 range to try and preserve some barrel life. I think these results look much better than what I was getting in my previous post, using Win Staball. Let me know your thought. All bullet, group, SD info is below. Thanks.

    1648256351754.png


    1648295905726.png

    20220326_130004.jpg
     

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    FatBatman

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    Jan 19, 2021
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    Hi Everyone,

    I was able to get my hands on a good amount of H4350 through Midsouth this past week, and put together an initial load test. Instead of only doing one shot per powder charge, I did 3 shot groups. All but one group shot under .5", so I was pretty pleased wit those results. Below is a chart of my results, and based on my numbers and plotting, I think it looks pretty promising between 40.2-40.4 and 41.6-41.8. I would actually prefer to stay in the 40.2-40.4 range to try and preserve some barrel life. I think these results look much better than what I was getting in my previous post, using Win Staball. Let me know your thought. All bullet, group, SD info is below. Thanks.

    View attachment 7835521

    View attachment 7835753
    View attachment 7835946
    Few questions
    1 what is the barrel length
    2 how many rounds on the barrel
     

    Roksliding

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    Feb 19, 2020
    18
    7
    Wisconsin
    108eldm
    Lapua brass (once fired) trimmed 1.91
    Br4
    38.4 h4350
    2.225 to ogive
    2900fps sd4 es8
    1/2” at 100
    26” 1 in 7.2 twist gap ppr barrel

    Hoping to get 2k rounds on it.
     

    FatBatman

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    Jan 19, 2021
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    Pennsylvania
    24" barrel with 200 rounds
    From what I am seeing there 40.0 or 40.8 shot good groups. Tring to pick a charge wieght based on an ad of 3 shots is not a great indicator. Load more of the charge wieghts you would prefer and shoot it if the groups are also good load 15+rounds to check sd
     

    Movistar

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    Feb 20, 2017
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    Hey guys I’m looking for a little friendly gun guy advice if possible. Using new brass vs same lot 1x fired brass I am getting flat primers on the 1x fired with the same load as the new brass. Why would 1x fired be flat and new isn’t with the same formula? Anyone know why that is?

    Just the facts ma’am:

    - AI ASR
    -24 inch Proof CF barrel suppressed
    -60 degrees F & 2500 FASL
    -brass is Lapua SRP all the same lot.
    -both new and 1x fired were sized using the same Whidden bushing die.
    -105 Berger hybrid
    -seated to 2.795 COAL
    - charge is 40.00 of RL16 all the same lot and same bottle loaded at the same time.
    - CCI 450 primer
    -rounds fired the same day all in succession. 1x was fired first. I fired 10 to test speed vs my new brass speed.
    -all brass new and 1x fired trimmed to 1.915
    -new brass is 3030 FPS and 6 SD
    -1x fired brass is 3047 FPS and 9 SD
    -accuracy was identical

    Photo = new brass on the right. 1x (now 2x fired) on the left.

    4E7941DC-8C13-4F3F-9C24-AA8A8786E3AF.jpeg
     

    CK1.0

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    Why would 1x fired be flat and new isn’t with the same formula? Anyone know why that is?

    Generally, on reloaded rounds, flattened primers are a sign of pressure... but, I've also heard it said that one can get flattened primers from rounds that are undersized for the chamber (this is how I've heard flattened primers with factory rounds get explained).

    The theory with factory stuff and flattened primers is: that since the cases are short for the chamber, the primers get pushed back and out of the pockets and slam/compress against the bolt-face.

    So, not my theory, but if that's the case, maybe you're bumping your shoulders too far back on your reloads..? Probably worth breaking out the ol' comparator and checking your bump and at least ruling that out I guess...

    40gr of RL16 seems pretty normal/safe, so I'd look into your bump, and then, instead of COAL, maybe double-check your cartridge base to ogive (CBTO) just to make sure you're not unknowingly jamming the bullet into the rifling and adding any extra pressure that way..?

    (FWIW, IMHO COAL isn't a dependable measurement, because the only thing most of us care about with COAL is whether it'll fit in a magazine or not lol, otherwise CBTO is more repeatable and useful, not to mention, easier to measure).
     

    Movistar

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    Feb 20, 2017
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    Interesting. Thank you for the response. I am also full length resizing the new brass before using it
     

    CWik

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    Jun 26, 2020
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    Im gonna run 6creed eventually (meaning in my bolt gun put a threaded barrel on). Right now I’m doing 6.5 creed on that gun and a gas ar10.

    So, I’ve been stocking up on 6mm stuff (bullets, brass). Got the SAC Creedmoor dies and Redding comp bushing for the 6.5. (Have not switched to the sac yet).

    This thread seems to show that most use SRP brass lapua , even Peterson. I see some using hornady LRP.

    I wanted to get Peterson LRP but can’t find in stock yet.

    Is it safe to say most shoot SRP for 6creed or is LRP preferred.

    I have a good Amy of lapua SRP

    I was gonna get some of both (I know most people just stick with one or the other BUTTT I’m trying both and wanted Peterson)?

    Is large the better bet (if so why does lapua not make large)?
    Hey @XikoPlavi – Just saw this post and I have a few hundred, once-fired Peterson 6.5 Creedmoor LRP brass that I don't plan on using. Love it, but I have more Lapua at the moment, so I'm sticking with that. Let me know if you're interested – looking to find a good home for these guys.
     

    MRamsey

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    Feb 2, 2019
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    Posting results for IMR 4955 enduron powder. Not much info for loads out there but figured I’d share my preliminary results. Max charge listed with Hodgdon is 43.5 @ 2.770 OAL
    Berger 108 BTHP 2.800 OAL
    Lapua SRP (new only pushed out .003 when FF)
    CCI 450
    Origin action
    Proof CF TL3 prefit (HLR Lug)
    Rex Silentium can
    Shot at 100 yrds
    FA183834-75BD-4EEF-8561-9281E772BEB6.jpeg
    CD105FE5-719D-4D5E-A7D1-03578475E3B0.jpeg
    1D548EA2-7A7E-417B-92EC-2D37216107E8.jpeg

    No pressure on any of it
    **Edit**
    I passed on this powder. Loaded 10 at 43.3 5 for the chrono and 5 for a group without and it was nothing spectacular. About a 9 SD and groups in the 3/4”-1” range. As reported from others just seems to want to throw a round. Another note is my suppressor would get much hotter than with the same rounds fired with H4350. Settled on 40.9 gr 4359 and got an SD of 5 with a half “ group going 3050fps. Wish I could have done more testing with this but the knowledge of how well 4350 does I didn’t see the need to burn components chasing this one.
     
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    Snaz

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    •AI AT 27" 7.5T Bartlien bbl
    •112gr Barnes MatchBurner
    •40.2gr RL16
    •CCI 400s & Fed 205s
    •Lapua SRP once fired brass
    •0.040" off the lands @ CBOL: 2.205"

    Only goal was accurate load over 3k fps. Hopefully, I'll get a few more rounds out of this barrel by not pushing it quite as hard.

    Well, seems like I always pull a shot, no matter what I do..
     

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