where did u find that weight kit??
- Thread starter Peter Laurvick
- Start date
Dependabilt SideTrak LightWeights: AI Keyslot (AT-X)
Dependabilt SideTrak™ Weight Kit - Keyslot (AT-X)
www.sawtoothrifles.com It might be common knowledge but what type of lube and cleaning schedule are people using with their AT-Xs, particularly in dusty areas?
I really like G96 but even the lightest coat feels like glue near the end of a match. I have also experimented with Otis dry lube but it also didn't seem to stay slick for too long.
I really like G96 but even the lightest coat feels like glue near the end of a match. I have also experimented with Otis dry lube but it also didn't seem to stay slick for too long.
I have been using Sentry dry lube 'Tuf-Glide' for years with excellent results. Goes on wet, does not attract dust anywhere near as much as grease or normal oil.
Thanks! Amazon had a hypodermic needle looking unit of it for a reasonable price.
Not sure what everyone else does but I wipe the bolt and bolt raceway (?) down with brake cleaner, soft brush and rag to get the mix of dust, grease, carbon, and what not out before re-lubing. That's usually every 100 rounds or so.
I think cleaning needs of the action depends on your environment. I don't deal with cold temps or blowing moon dust in Florida so I just wipe down the bolt with a rag and apply a few dabs of grease from a tub of auto grease and that's worked just fine for me for a few years of shooting an AI and many more years with a Tikka before that. Now if your dealing with tough environmental conditions you might need to do something different.
I'm just going to hide in the corner with my "guud enuff" CLP that worked well enough for me over the years. I wonder if it might reduce my bolt lift to 11.5lbs if I switched to one of those preferred lubricants???
Of course, I'm at the point in my life where if the weather gets bad enough to create a dust storm I'll just go sit inside the house...but I seem to recollect not having too bad a time with desert sand and dust on a mildly lubricated M16A4/M4 as long as I kept up with it.
Of course, I'm at the point in my life where if the weather gets bad enough to create a dust storm I'll just go sit inside the house...but I seem to recollect not having too bad a time with desert sand and dust on a mildly lubricated M16A4/M4 as long as I kept up with it.
I toss slip 2000 on mine. Sometimes I use rem oil. Sometimes I use red head grease on the bolt.
Rem oil on the outside of action/barrel
Butches gun oil inside the barrel after cleaning
In Australia we have all kinds of issues depending on the season (like most places), it gets very dusty in our area during warmer months, the fine grit that clogs triggers and messes with magazines followed by mud in winter and everything else in between. I generally try to keep action fairly dry by avoiding oil and grease, opting more for dry lubricants to avoid gumming up sensitive areas and pulling crap into the action.
Bolt guns get the same treatment:
Wipe down the entire action inside
Pull the barrel and top NV cover at times to get into the barrel locking threads from the front end also as required
Clean the chamber area of fine debris
Clean out the bolt stop raceway on both the bolt body and action insides
Bolt face, under extractor, ejector
Use tuf-glide on bolt stop raceway
Lube barrel prior to re-inseting
Rub tuf-glide onto bolt lugs, bolt body contact points, camming area of bolt handle, bolt stop, action area behind trigger sear etc.
Run bolt a handful of times to get lube into all the relevant areas
Then simply wipe dust and crap off as required down the track, before cleaning and doing it all over again periodically.
Nothing outrageous, I generally just wipe them down and use a silicone impregnated cloth, then wipe most of that off to get rid of the slippery sheen.
Welllllllllllllllllllllllll crap. *****Fixed in post 5,975*****
My AT-X firing pin started going home on its own when I close the bolt. I suspect that the comp trigger is gummed up, so cleaning it will be my first course of action as soon as I get some time off.
I was right in the middle of recording myself (no homo) shooting a 10-round string at 650. I'm somewhat tempted to figure out what my problem is, and then create the video. I've got some internet searching to do for now though.
Round count is 422. Dry fire estimate is about 200. This rifle has seen zero rough field conditions, usually getting pulled out of the safe to shoot a few groups and then back again.
Half of my barrel cleaning was with the barrels removed.
Hopefully this is an easy fix and I get to share that easy fix for the next guy to find on his internet search.
My AT-X firing pin started going home on its own when I close the bolt. I suspect that the comp trigger is gummed up, so cleaning it will be my first course of action as soon as I get some time off.
I was right in the middle of recording myself (no homo) shooting a 10-round string at 650. I'm somewhat tempted to figure out what my problem is, and then create the video. I've got some internet searching to do for now though.
Round count is 422. Dry fire estimate is about 200. This rifle has seen zero rough field conditions, usually getting pulled out of the safe to shoot a few groups and then back again.
Half of my barrel cleaning was with the barrels removed.
Hopefully this is an easy fix and I get to share that easy fix for the next guy to find on his internet search.
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You could also call AINA at 540.368.3108 and talk to a tech.
That would be a logical idea.
However, after my call, message, and no return call regarding a barrel issue I had with my factory 6.5CM barrel - I'm out of the desire to repeat that process.
Not that I hate AI...I'm just enjoying my one and only less and less. Hopefully it is a stupid simple fix as easy as cleaning/blowing out the trigger - as I am a stupid simple person.
What year rifle?
Might have to make trigger heavier. That’s worked for custom bolt actions anyway.
I haven’t looked in the box for mine recently but do they come with multiple springs? Think there was mention of issues with it being to light in the past.
Yeah, there was an extra spring packaged. I think that it was the light one though and my "heavy" one is installed. It is actually too light for my numb fingers. More than one occasion I pulled through the wall just trying to register it.
I need about a 2lb trigger at it's lightest. Most of my stuff has a gorilla-like 3lb trigger.
I'm 90% hopeful this can be cured with a blast of (not even going to mention it) and then blown out by compressed air. I'll take the bolt apart too, but with the firing pin going home as I cock the action I'm pretty confident there is an interface problem at the trigger sear (or what I would call the sear...don't have a schematic in front of me).
That is likely the case! Let us know how it works outYeah, there was an extra spring packaged. I think that it was the light one though and my "heavy" one is installed. It is actually too light for my numb fingers. More than one occasion I pulled through the wall just trying to register it.
I need about a 2lb trigger at it's lightest. Most of my stuff has a gorilla-like 3lb trigger.
I'm 90% hopeful this can be cured with a blast of (not even going to mention it) and then blown out by compressed air. I'll take the bolt apart too, but with the firing pin going home as I cock the action I'm pretty confident there is an interface problem at the trigger sear (or what I would call the sear...don't have a schematic in front of me).
^^^hmmm. I would think this would be something someone elae has ran into at this point with these atx. Kinda crazy
There were several gripes about the comp triggers going down in either this thread (maybe around page 90), or one of the other AI threads.
An AI rep said that it was all but one time due to operator error in adjustment. I have found a couple similar issues with basic Google searches, but I still don't have the time to deep dive.
It isn't a first time for sure. I did find an Australian guy who had some issues and cleaned his out with brake cleaner on YouTube. He got ~900 rounds though in matches before he was getting light strikes 50% of the time. Mine has been babied.
My firing pin drops as you lock the bolt...similar to if you close the bolt while holding the trigger.
I've not messed with a thing, but I'm about to.
As someone mentioned a light trigger could be the culprit had the trigger been adjusted and if so do you know what pull weight it is at? Sorry if you mentioned it and I didn't catch it.
Welp, it was most simple fix in the world. I'll go back and edit my original "issue" post once I finish typing this. Hopefully if someone else runs into an issue, they find this and it too helps them quickly fix their problems. Hell, the tool that they need is literally inside their cheek riser.
Pulled my rifle apart. Very first thing I noticed...BOTH screws that hold my trigger in were lose...as in wobbly/at least two full rotations loose. Somehow they came undone (Capt Obvious statement). That problem was remedied pretty quickly. Firing pin no longer releases when the bolt is closed. *For the record, I checked all of my screws when I bought the rifle last summer with a torque wrench, and nothing was loose. I have never removed or adjusted my trigger until this evening. Loctite is your friend.
While out, the trigger - while pretty clean on the outside, got a thorough cleaning and light lubrication. It was certainly dirtier on the inside than the outside, but at no point did there appear to be enough grime to effect the sear...so back to simple fix #1.
I did adjust the trigger a tad heavier for the second stage and for my numb fingers...it is golden now. I don't know how frigging light it was from the factory but at my now noticeably heavier pull it is 1lb first stage / 13oz second stage.
I am absolutely going to mention this potato-level problem I had on video, along with what to check. If it can happen to a moron like me, it can happen to other morons as well.
Pulled my rifle apart. Very first thing I noticed...BOTH screws that hold my trigger in were lose...as in wobbly/at least two full rotations loose. Somehow they came undone (Capt Obvious statement). That problem was remedied pretty quickly. Firing pin no longer releases when the bolt is closed. *For the record, I checked all of my screws when I bought the rifle last summer with a torque wrench, and nothing was loose. I have never removed or adjusted my trigger until this evening. Loctite is your friend.
While out, the trigger - while pretty clean on the outside, got a thorough cleaning and light lubrication. It was certainly dirtier on the inside than the outside, but at no point did there appear to be enough grime to effect the sear...so back to simple fix #1.
I did adjust the trigger a tad heavier for the second stage and for my numb fingers...it is golden now. I don't know how frigging light it was from the factory but at my now noticeably heavier pull it is 1lb first stage / 13oz second stage.
I am absolutely going to mention this potato-level problem I had on video, along with what to check. If it can happen to a moron like me, it can happen to other morons as well.
Typed your answer as you were typing your question man
. I had never adjusted the trigger prior. I would guess it was somewhere around 1lb first stage (still is) and probably 6oz or less on the second stage. It is 13oz now on the second stage after about 1.5 rotations on the screw.If you make a video going over your issue and remedies like you mentioned it would be much appreciated!Typed your answer as you were typing your question man
Frank did a podcast where he spoke with Scott (from AINA) who said it was extremely important to keep it clean of any lube, cleaning fluid, oils etc.
He said almost every single issue they've had was messed with by the owner or gummed up with cleaning product.
I'd imagine cleaning it out with brake cleaner, contact cleaner or lighter fluid regularly would be a good idea for comp trigger owners.
I think I will add a regular 400 round interval of pulling it apart, cleaning the trigger and bolt, and applying blue Loctite to the screws.
Admittedly, I'm a 700/70 pattern action bedded into a stock guy. I imagine the chassis guys are probably more familiar with checking mounting hardware. It is easy enough to remedy.
I certainly spent more time yesterday researching what other people were having problems with on the forums than I did breaking my rifle down and solving my own issue. Lesson learned there.
