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Adams Arms 7.5" 5.56 w/XLP kit for shortest suppressed set up?

jasonfaz

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 27, 2011
871
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43
Erie, Colorado
Curious if anyone out there has put together a 7.5" 5.56 rig using the XLP kit with intent to suppress? I just finished one up and am fuming f'ing pissed. I'm also hoping to get some feedback on what further modification I could try before calling Adams Arms. Here's the deal:

I tend to gravitate towards projects that are challenging but also maintain the core aspects of a reliable and accurate rifle system. My original intent was to build the shortest possible 5.56 that can be suppressed without running into muzzle pressure issues that would affect the performance or structural integrity of my suppressor. I figured while I'm at it, I'll go as light as possible without giving up things I personally consider important enough to sacrifice for added weight. One thing I've always despised about piston rifles are the enormous outside diameters of the handguards to accommodate the operating system components. Personally, I move more fluidly and control the rifle dramatically better with slimmer profile handguards. I felt I could make the KAC URX4 - one of my favorite rail systems - work with the 1.55" ID and 1.65" OD. The keymod slots are machined concentric across the entire hand guard which was important as it made it much easier to shorten and maintain the intent of the original design. It's also relatively light for a heptagonal keymod design and it's strength to weight ratio is fantastic.

I spent about 3 weeks doing the machining, blasting, re-coating & testing for drive rod clearance, proper bushing and spring seating, etc. before putting the last run of milling to the test. Ended up with a hair under 4.5mm in clearance between can and end of rail, 1.5mm between guide rod/top of gas block and top of rail, and bushing/spring were seated nicely. Right about here is where I had stopped after the first two rounds of machining after taking note of areas I needed to remove more material. I played it safe to safeguard against reducing the structural integrity of the handguard. This time however, outside of detail work - smoothing edges, trimming burrs, etc. - I was gtg on all dimensional aspects and excited to do some live fire testing after installing my M4-2000. I proceeded to install the brake and was concerned with the spacing between the gas plug and where the threads on the barrel begin. I finished installing the brake and included .051" in shims and ratcheted on the can. It's at this point where neighbors a few miles away likely heard me yell Ffffffuuuuuuuuucccckkkkk!!!!

This is how the adjustment mechanism on the end of the gas plug looks. You depress the button on the top to move the selector and adjust gas settings...
E7529543-093F-415A-81D3-1C07CC081CD1.jpg


THIS is how nicely this system mates up...
67C5EA51-90D0-4593-ABDD-709D6FD58F7C.jpg


Hmmm, not thinking that's going to work out very well. I did specifically ask Adams Arms via email about the compatibility of the XLP kit with a std pistol length gas set up on a 7.5" tube. They said gtg. They also sell an XLP pistol length kit now - yet they didn't a month ago when carbine length was the shortest gas system available in an XLP kit. Before I go bashing a MFGer for selling something I'm convinced won't work sold as it is on a system they do indeed market it for I figured I would grab some opinions of those who have some ideas on a fix or who have run into some similar issues on highly modified projects. Any input is greatly appreciated! Thanks gents...
 
Looks cool! I didn't realize the AAC M4-2k was rated below 10.5". Thought only the Silencerco Saker (and Specwar 762), DeltaP Brevis, Ops Inc, and various Liberty cans were.
 
Thanks. Wish it actually functioned.

The M4-2k is rated for 10.5". That rating is based off of many factors associated with the host weapon. The 'rating' is based off of specific heat & pressure tolerances, projectile construction & stability requirements, timing and reliability factors, etc. All of which can vary drastically depending on the operating system of your rifle, barrel, chamber, ammunition used, and many more things. But I digress....

To the original point, everything I can find shows 7.5"ers using the Gen 2 railed GB that appears shorter in length and provides clearance of 1/8" from the start of the threads on a 7.5" barrel with a std thread pitch of 1/2-28 tpi. Pretty curious to see how this one plays out. Will be calling AA in the morning and will post results. Threaded on a buddy's direct thread TBAC and it wouldn't even fit without making contact with the gas plug. Would have been a really nice, compact set up if it would've worked out....
 
Here's a better view of the gas block in relation to the upper as a whole. Should give it some scale. It's a LONG gas block...

661A6003-0679-4C0A-A376-5AF44E96392C.jpg


D90ED618-7F6A-4C39-86FE-E84EDD10A087.jpg


Super compact and feels like it'd be quite a bit easier to quickly transition than an un-suppressed 14.7" even with the can. Almost 3 inches shorter as they lay here...
30B6F924-898C-4A60-A1A2-080AC14A68BA.jpg
 
Well A couple things.

7.5 are toys. The ballistics are so anemic, that its not even worth trying to build it.

7.5 are unreliable. Pistol Gas/piston systems are just to short, violent and fast. The wear is accelerated incredibly fast on these systems.

You should never risk a can on something lower than 10.5. Its not just the concentrically of the bore, but the stabilization of the round. 7.5" is just not long enough to stabilize many rounds.

You are also destroying your suppressor. They are a consumable item, and your accelerating the wear and erosion on your blast baffles. You can is going to get worse and worse, MUCH faster than using it on a longer barrel. The sacrificial "baffle" on your FH is not going to do much to slow this down compared to a longer system.


Your better off with a 10.5 or 11.5 system with a shorty/mini can. You will have much better ballistics, much better reliability, your can will last much longer and will balance better.
 
The reliable functional 7.5" upper is the unicorn of AR15's.

Largely mythical.


ETA: Crap, I just agreed with Cobracutter. I must be wrong (despite my own personal experience with 7.5's.)
 
I do understand the anemic ballistic performance of 7.5"ers. It really matters not when your shooting paper. I disagree that running a low pressure 223 load through a 7.5 with the addition of a piston chamber the same size as my wylde chamber will produce any substantial pressure differences in my can's blast chamber over that of my 10.5. As I've also already mentioned, I'll easily stablize 55-70 gr projos in a 1-7" twist and additional free bore in the wylde chamber in a 7.5" tube as long as I select the appropriate projectile - which I plan to do. I do indeed also love my 10.5 switchblock. Its fucking wonderful, and not at all the point, but thanks for the suggestion. Jesus Christ CC, the point of the thread is getting opinions and ideas around getting this thing to run outside what one feels about the legitimacy of my application. You're still my boy though blue, and at least I agree with you on the Elcan SpecterDR! ��

Gman, you're right brother, they are "mythical" in the sense of getting one running reliably and accurately. Hell, I just want to try and few things and test that theory but this block is literally standing in my way.
 
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Then why build one? You have a $2K toy that is not really for for anything but shooting super underpowered ammo from a reliable platform that will not stabilze.

You would have been better off building a .22/Mp5/Krink/10.5-11.5AR clone or something that works well from a short barrel (7.62x39 is fantasitc from short barrells)

There is soo much unburnt powder and flame, that you are going to erode your can fast as shit. You better be relacing that FH on the regular beacuse you need that sacrifical blast baffle to keep your can from getting destroyed even faster then it will with a pistol length barrel.

Stabailization requires length, and you will find if you shoot alot, than many bullets will not reliabily stabalize with a super short barrel. This is a Large reason why can manufs won't warranty anything less than 10-11.5. In addition, VERY few if any reputable barrel manufactures make barrels under 10.3/10.5 for 5.56 so there is a good chance of baffle strikes from an untrue bore. Untrue bore + unstabalized bullets = $1000 tube of metal ruined.



Your trying to unfuck something that is fucked from the start. Your pissing time and money down the drain on this "project". You will have plenty of idiots coming in here telling you to do this or that, but they will be wasting more time and money from you.

Lots of people have tried 5-8" uppers over the year, and they all get sold off beacuse they eventualy realize what people like me are telling them.

Sorry if I sound harsh, its just the reality of the situation.
 
I can't offer much help, only support. I have a 7" barreled 5.56 and I love it. I didn't buy it for the accuracy but it is a blast to shoot!! Don't worry about all the nay sayers man, you'll get it and it's going to rock!


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Aww c'mon Cobra. You're hurting my feelings man. ? nah, I'm building one because I want to and because it will be real, real fun. There's a lot of functional reasons specific to the application I have indended for this too, but I digress.

I, once again, do agree with everything you've said from a stabilization, blast baffle tolerances, barrel quality and powder burn standpoint. Generally speaking that is. The barrel is a match stainless WOA w/Wylde chamber, 1/7 twist from a special run of 20 they had a couple months ago. Comfortable with the quality.

I tested over 15 projectiles using 6 different powders in a 7" un suppressed rig to test stabilization and powder burn rates. There were multiple projos from 45-63 gr that I was comfortable trying in a suppressed 7.5 as a result. The 50 gr TTSX was one of the best. Has a GSTAB of 2.440. With 13.5 gr of Alliant BD and the 50 gr TTSX at .812" I would get 2275 fps and 19.3K PSI BP. The polymer tip helped spin concentricity during stabilization and muzzle pressure wasn't anywhere near tolerances that would F a can's structural integrity especially after factoring in piston chamber pressure run off. Hell, I'd be able to stabilize that boolit with a 1 in 8.15" twist all factors held constant.

Another large reason for warranty practices would include the fact that any suppressor MFGer will only warranty something if they feel there is manageable risk in doing so while taking into account all possible options. They'll warranty a can on a 10.3" min because there's a hell of a lot more margin of error regardless of what the shooter is feeding the gun than their is with a 7.5". The more variables one must take into account the more risk there is to manage.

Do you believe that no one runs a 7.25" POF, a 7.75" PWS or an 8" LWRC suppressed? Curious what experiences have been like of those that do have experience running any of those suppressed.

Anyway, got any ideas on how I can create me some clearance on this thing without modifying the piston itself?
 
In case anyone else is thinking about putting together a piston rig with the XLP kit and a 7.5" tube, I've verified with AA that it won't work if you plan to run a suppressor or a brake that has a 1.25" OD or more. You'd have to go with the standard picatinny railed gas block. The XLP GB and plug are 2.5325” in overall lenth, while the Picatinny Block and std gas plug are 2.2865” in overall length. The minimum barrel length you can run with an XLP with pistol length gas is 7.8".

I guess I'll be milling out a slot for the railed GB now. Yippie...
 
Back in the early 60s my brother working as a mercenary in I believe Panama carried a briefcase with a 9mm suppressed machine gun with the trigger in the handle. He said the only way you new that it was fired was all the smoke that would billow out when you opened the briefcase to change magazines. (No noise). Why does it have to be a 5.56?
 
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I do throw the G19 in a chassis on occasion and it is ridiculous quiet but this isn't really a 'build the quietest', it's a 'build the shortest'. A couple reasons around why I'd personally like to go .223 are, 1. I have 20k+ pieces of brass, a bunch of powder and projos laying around. Might as well put those to use. (I also rather enjoy the process of working up different loads.)
2. I like the trajectory and accuracy potential of the 50 gr TTSX @ 2275-2325 fps out to 200-250 yds over a 90-158 gr 9mm pistol bullet.

The main reason though is ultimately in the challenge of building the shortest set up -without sacrificing accuracy and reliability - for sub 300 yard target clanking. Are other calibers better suited? Probably, but in my opinion, they won't be what the title of this thread states......the shortest possible package in doing so. I'm certainly not going through the NFA process just to settle on an MK18 or any other 10.3/5" variant just because people say so. Dont get me wrong I'll shoot the hell out of it, but how does one improve upon a design, or further the development of a science or technology without challenging some well known capabilities here and there? If ounces are pounds to the lightweight rifle guys, then inches are miles to me.

At the end of the day, I just love to shoot and I want to hone that skill into one that displays the kind of proficiency that is only possible after putting 500K rounds down range. With all of the components I already have I can shoot exponentially more with a .223....
 
Aww c'mon Cobra. You're hurting my feelings man. ? nah, I'm building one because I want to and because it will be real, real fun. There's a lot of functional reasons specific to the application I have indended for this too, but I digress.

I, once again, do agree with everything you've said from a stabilization, blast baffle tolerances, barrel quality and powder burn standpoint. Generally speaking that is. The barrel is a match stainless WOA w/Wylde chamber, 1/7 twist from a special run of 20 they had a couple months ago. Comfortable with the quality.

I tested over 15 projectiles using 6 different powders in a 7" un suppressed rig to test stabilization and powder burn rates. There were multiple projos from 45-63 gr that I was comfortable trying in a suppressed 7.5 as a result. The 50 gr TTSX was one of the best. Has a GSTAB of 2.440. With 13.5 gr of Alliant BD and the 50 gr TTSX at .812" I would get 2275 fps and 19.3K PSI BP. The polymer tip helped spin concentricity during stabilization and muzzle pressure wasn't anywhere near tolerances that would F a can's structural integrity especially after factoring in piston chamber pressure run off. Hell, I'd be able to stabilize that boolit with a 1 in 8.15" twist all factors held constant.

Another large reason for warranty practices would include the fact that any suppressor MFGer will only warranty something if they feel there is manageable risk in doing so while taking into account all possible options. They'll warranty a can on a 10.3" min because there's a hell of a lot more margin of error regardless of what the shooter is feeding the gun than their is with a 7.5". The more variables one must take into account the more risk there is to manage.

Do you believe that no one runs a 7.25" POF, a 7.75" PWS or an 8" LWRC suppressed? Curious what experiences have been like of those that do have experience running any of those suppressed.

Anyway, got any ideas on how I can create me some clearance on this thing without modifying the piston itself?

A buddy of mine has one of the PWS MK107Mod1 pistols. Waiting on his Saker 556 to get back from warranty (mount issue. Nothing major).