Advice on my build - Barrel Length, Brake, etc

[planebuilder]

First off, thanks for a great site. I've been lurking for several years now and finally decided to join. Selfishly it's to ask for help, but I hope to help when I can. Anyhow, I'm needing help with the final details of my build.

<span style="text-decoration: underline">What I have:</span>

I'm starting out with a Remington 700P, 300WM, 26" barrel, Leupold Mk4 3.5-10x40 scope. . . . Pretty much a decent off-the-shelf rifle, but I’m looking for something that fits me better. I hate the ergonomics of the original H-S Precision stock. The palm swell is not comfortable for me, and I had to add a 2.5” spacer to my Pachmayer pad to correct my LOP. I have long monkey arms for my height (6’8” span, but I’m 6’3” tall), so I always felt cramped on the stock. I also added about 8-10 oz of shot to the rear of the stock to balance it, which worked great, but I am still uncomfortable.

<span style="text-decoration: underline">Here is where I am going:</span>
I have an XLR Evolution chassis on order, about 8-9 weeks out. After a ton of research, I have decided on the IOR 3.5-18x50 MIL/MIL scope (or 6-24x56, can’t decide). I’m headed to SWFA this Friday to take a look at both (live about 30 minutes from their shop). I’m about to send my bolt and barreled receiver to GAP to have them install the BO knob and a BO FTE Brake installed (or the GAP Titan, can’t decide).

<span style="text-decoration: underline">My Questions:</span>
I would prefer to have a shorter barrel, but don’t know what is too short. With the Titan or FTE, it will obviously be longer than 26”. Should I have the barrel cut down? If so, what length is a good compromise between maneuverability and velocity?

Is there much performance difference between the FTE and Titan? The Titan is ~$100 cheaper to have installed, but I love the FTE.

Should I use a 20 MOA base? I currently shoot reloads, 190gr BTHP Sierra MatchKing, 2950fs. My dope card reads 8.1 mil at 1000 yards, though I have never shot it this far. The 3.5-18x50 has 22 mil of adjustment, so I don’t think I need a 20 MOA base, but I thought I’d ask.

The IOR comes with rings, so I’ll just get the “highs” and hope they are high enough for the Evolution Chassis.

Am I missing anything? Tips, suggestions, comments are welcome. I’m new to this and have thick skin, so don’t be shy.

Thanks guys, I look forward to the advice.

 

[Dollman]

Re: Advice on my build - Barrel Length, Brake, etc

With my 300 WM 1000 yard target rifle I do use a +20 moa canted base. I went the opposite way with the barrel and had a 28" barrel made for it. It's a Krieger #9 contour. Kind of dedicated it to a 1000+ yard gun. I run a 1 in 11 twist barrel and it will support up to about 210 grain bullets. 210 grain BTHP long range Bergers have Sg (gyroscopic stability) of 1.56 with this twist. About the limit. I use the 190 grain SMK's and I get a muzzel velocity of average 3080 fps. My 1000 yard dope is between 6.8 mill and 7.2 mill depending on weather conditions and altitude.

I'm running a McMillan A-5 with a 1" Decel pad and an Elite Iron Max Tac brake. Felt reciol for me is near non existant. Total rifle wieight with scope is 17 lbs. 1 0z. Also have the adjustable stack plates on butt of stock. I was able to get corrtet LOP for my build by removing a few stack plates. In your case it sounds like you may need to add some. They are available from McMillan in a few thicknesses if you need to buy more. The platform your getting should have that option available too. After dinking with it for awhile it's very comfortable now.

I too harvested a Remington reciever for this build and had it trued when Krieger barreled the action. I also run a Jewell trigger which worked out to 1.8 oz. pull weight and it is sweet. Timney make a good trigger also. I run an 5-25X56mm FFP scope with a 34mm tube and am content with it. Seem to find it set between 19 and 21 magnification when shooting 1000 yards. So range of magnification with this scope works well for me. The IOR sounds good and you may consider the 6-24X56 if your eyes are older. Maybe not so good if you intend to hunt with it. Also, I have 56 Y.O. eyes that have seen better days. I ended up with 1-1/4" rings from Badger and they give me about 3/16" clearance to barrel with 56mm bell.

Barrel life was a little short of what I thought I would get out of it. I got about 1150 rounds through it when the barrel was shot out. Will be going on second barrel now. This time will run 1 in 10 twist as I want to try heavier grain bullets. I had the stock made with 4 flush cups two on the left side and two on the bottom. Also have a QD stud placed in the forstock for the Harris bi-pod. If you run an Atals have a small piece of picatinny rail mounted to the front of the forestock instead of the QD stud to mount it.

Currently having new 260 built for 1000 yard that will replace the 300 for that. The 260 has similar exterior ballistic characteristics as the 300 WM. 300 WM will still be used for this and further but not as much as it has been.

 

[planebuilder]

Re: Advice on my build - Barrel Length, Brake, etc

what is the advantage of the 20 MOA base on your build Fredrick? It sounds like you need less dope for 1000+ yards then I would, yet you still used one.

Am I incorrect in thinking that if scope can accomodate the dope for 1000+ yards that I dont need the extra 20 MOA?

 

[redirt78]

Re: Advice on my build - Barrel Length, Brake, etc

Its better to have a scopes reticle/erector closer to the center of the glass. Without a canted base you are closer to the turret's/erector's limits when dialing adjustments at long range.

Also, with a canted base you are putting more of your scopes usable elevation adjustment to good use instead of wasting it.

I'm sure someone can explain it better but maybe that helps answer your question.

 

[Dollman]

Re: Advice on my build - Barrel Length, Brake, etc

Probably could make it to 1000 without 20moa base with scope I went with, but I shoot past that from time to time. Also it was my first build and I hadn't decided on scope while it was in progeress of being built. So a included the +20 moa base. And the erector is closer to the center of the glass.

 

[planebuilder]

Re: Advice on my build - Barrel Length, Brake, etc

The 22 MIL for the scope is 11 MIL up and 11 MIL down, correct? So my 8.1 MIL for 1000 yards is getting close to the 11 MIL limit. With a 20 MOA base, I basically get an additional 5.5 MIL of "usable" adjustment. . . . . Is that what I'm hearing redirt?

 

[redirt78]

Re: Advice on my build - Barrel Length, Brake, etc

Exactly, thumbs up man haha. As an added bonus the clarity of your glass should be better at long range with the erector more centered (if I'm not mistaken)

 

[planebuilder]

Re: Advice on my build - Barrel Length, Brake, etc

Alright, I'll run a 20 MAO base.

Anyone have advice on barrel length and/or preferences of brakes (Titan or FTE)?

 

[ajwcotton]

Re: Advice on my build - Barrel Length, Brake, etc

The FTE brake is great for recoil reduction, but what a lot of people don't realize is that the OD of the barrel will have to be turned down to the ID of the Brake where the clamp portion is, It doesn't clamp on the threads but rather the skinney portion of the barrel.
I don't have the dimentions here, but I would go with a brake that is timed to the barrel and does not clamp, also get a matching thread protector so you can shoot where brakes are not allowed. This system will also work better if you want to at some point use a thread on supressor.
I shoot a 300 WSM and shoot some pretty mild 190 smk loads at about 2875 fps and thats out of a 23 incher with the FTE making it about 24 total.

 

[planebuilder]

Re: Advice on my build - Barrel Length, Brake, etc

I knew that about the FTE, and is partly why I'm looking at the Titan. I dont want to worry about refinishing the turned portion of the barrel (though I'm not sure if that is included in the GAP price for installation).