AIAE barrel nut

[madman23]

Any one use a barrel nut system for AI barrel changes? PVA has them to upgrade the older AI models. Can use the Barloc also. Seems easier than taking the chassis apart.

 

[madman23]

Well, every one must have all the latest AI's. Still love mine. Going to do a barrel change soon. I might have to buy the barrel nut and Barloc, and see how it works.

 

[jtake]

If you do, keep us updated so those of us with AE's know of our options! Thanks!

 

[madman23]

Will do. I will get a hold of PVA and order a barrel nut. I'll take some pics and see how it goes.

 

[.505gibbs]

Why a barrel nut? AT barrels are reverse compatible with the AE. Just so you don’t have to remove the action from the chassis?

 

[madman23]

ATY's have a screw on the action to take them apart. There is no screw on the AE. You have to take the barrel and put it in a vice and use a wrench to remove the barrel.

 

[Kiba]

Even with a barrel nut or barloc setup, you'll have to loosen the action screws or remove the action from the stock during a barrel change anyways because the front action screw on an AE is in the recoil lug and not in the action. Things are going to move around if you loosen the barrel without loosening the action screws first as the action and rear action screw will no longer be attached to the recoil lug and front action screw. It's not like a Remington where both action screws go into the receiver.

Also, with the front action screw being in the recoil lug, proper barrel torque is going to be important to keep the recoil lug securely sandwiched in place to keep things from moving around under recoil.

While I sold them both a while ago, both my AE Mk3's were within the normal AI dimensional specs for prefits, so barrels were easy to find. Some AEs have a bit more dimensional variation from the recoil lug face to bolt face than AW/AT/ATX/AXMC's because of additional tolerance stacking with the recoil lug.

 

[.505gibbs]

ATY's have a screw on the action to take them apart. There is no screw on the AE. You have to take the barrel and put it in a vice and use a wrench to remove the barrel.

I was aware of that. I just figured most people would prefer a shouldered prefit over a barrel nut.

 

[.505gibbs]

Even with a barrel nut or barloc setup, you'll have to loosen the action screws or remove the action from the stock during a barrel change anyways because the front action screw on an AE is in the recoil lug and not in the action. Things are going to move around if you loosen the barrel without loosening the action screws first as the action and rear action screw will no longer be attached to the recoil lug and front action screw. It's not like a Remington where both action screws go into the receiver.

Also, with the front action screw being in the recoil lug, proper barrel torque is going to be important to keep the recoil lug securely sandwiched in place to keep things from moving around under recoil.

While I sold them both a while ago, both my AE Mk3's were within the normal AI dimensional specs for prefits, so barrels were easy to find. Some AEs have a bit more dimensional variation from the recoil lug face to bolt face than AW/AT/ATX/AXMC's because of additional tolerance stacking with the recoil lug.

This part makes sense. I have re-barreled two ae rifles with at barrels and did not have any issues. Screwed them on and torqued them. Checked headspace and both were good to go.

 

[LeftyJason]

You guys are over thinking this. Everyone knows you don't need fancy stuff for an AI. Jacob Bynum is proof of that.

Jacob Bynum is the barrel change boss

I think that is an AW.

 

[GIXXER2000]

It only takes me maybe 20 min to swap barrels in my AI-AE. I also don't get carried away with the torque either. I use 85fp and call it good.