im trying to get set up for moly resin. the norels site recomends the badger 350. anyone here disagree with that?
Gunsmithing air brush recomendations
- Thread starter 42769vette
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Re: air brush recomendations
I used a Badger 350 for MolyResin numerous times and have been really pleased with it. No complaints here.
I used a Badger 350 for MolyResin numerous times and have been really pleased with it. No complaints here.
Re: air brush recomendations
I have used the Badger 350 and was quite pleased. I found a local deal on a Paasche Model H that worked just superbly as well.
I do find a dual action brush (mine is a Badger 155) to be a smidge better for the finer areas, such as in corners or slots, as it allows me to better control product flow coming into and out of the delicate areas.
Be advised though, the dual action trigger mechanism does take more practice to get proficient with.
If you think a dual action brush might be something you'd like to try out, Harbor Freight does sell a copy of the 155. Try a dual action without a huge investment, and the brush did seem to work.
I have used the Badger 350 and was quite pleased. I found a local deal on a Paasche Model H that worked just superbly as well.
I do find a dual action brush (mine is a Badger 155) to be a smidge better for the finer areas, such as in corners or slots, as it allows me to better control product flow coming into and out of the delicate areas.
Be advised though, the dual action trigger mechanism does take more practice to get proficient with.
If you think a dual action brush might be something you'd like to try out, Harbor Freight does sell a copy of the 155. Try a dual action without a huge investment, and the brush did seem to work.
Re: air brush recomendations
I have a Badger that I have been using for Norell's for about a year now to finish upwards of a hundred slides plus a number of rifles.
I am starting to see signs of problems related to the rubber O-ring in the nozzle as it seems to have loosened up causing erratic spray at times.
This is probably a maintenance part that I have ignored until now so I wouldn't necessarily see it as a problem with the Badger specifically.
I have a Badger that I have been using for Norell's for about a year now to finish upwards of a hundred slides plus a number of rifles.
I am starting to see signs of problems related to the rubber O-ring in the nozzle as it seems to have loosened up causing erratic spray at times.
This is probably a maintenance part that I have ignored until now so I wouldn't necessarily see it as a problem with the Badger specifically.
Re: air brush recomendations
How often are you going to use it? I bought one for scale modeling projects that sees use often. If you are really going to use it I suggest Iwata. If it is for every once in a while then a badger or cheap paasche should be fine.
Josh
How often are you going to use it? I bought one for scale modeling projects that sees use often. If you are really going to use it I suggest Iwata. If it is for every once in a while then a badger or cheap paasche should be fine.
Josh
Re: air brush recomendations
Two issues with the 350, the knurled knob has a tendency to loosen and fall off. A little Loctite is a good idea. The fluid cap i.e. nozzle needs to be well cleaned esp. around the threads before stowing. MEK is harsh on rubber & nitrile, just keep that in mind, there's an o-ring under the air plunger. Other than that, it's an adequate air brush for the job. If you're doing this full time, then you need to consider something better like an Iwata as suggested.
Two issues with the 350, the knurled knob has a tendency to loosen and fall off. A little Loctite is a good idea. The fluid cap i.e. nozzle needs to be well cleaned esp. around the threads before stowing. MEK is harsh on rubber & nitrile, just keep that in mind, there's an o-ring under the air plunger. Other than that, it's an adequate air brush for the job. If you're doing this full time, then you need to consider something better like an Iwata as suggested.
Re: air brush recomendations
i wont be doing it often. just for myself, friends and family. id guess 5 times a year, noone does anything gun related in my area so if i end up doing it more ill upgrade and keep the cheap one for a backup.
i wont be doing it often. just for myself, friends and family. id guess 5 times a year, noone does anything gun related in my area so if i end up doing it more ill upgrade and keep the cheap one for a backup.
Re: air brush recomendations
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CS223</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Two issues with the 350, the knurled knob has a tendency to loosen and fall off. A little Loctite is a good idea. <span style="font-weight: bold">The fluid cap i.e. nozzle needs to be well cleaned esp. around the threads before stowing. MEK is harsh on rubber & nitrile, just keep that in mind,</span> there's an o-ring under the air plunger. Other than that, it's an adequate air brush for the job.<span style="font-weight: bold"> If you're doing this full time, then you need to consider something better like an Iwata as suggested.</span> </div></div>
This is consistent with my experience thus far. Given the amount I use this thing probably an upgrade is in order.
I've likely just worn the damn thing out.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CS223</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Two issues with the 350, the knurled knob has a tendency to loosen and fall off. A little Loctite is a good idea. <span style="font-weight: bold">The fluid cap i.e. nozzle needs to be well cleaned esp. around the threads before stowing. MEK is harsh on rubber & nitrile, just keep that in mind,</span> there's an o-ring under the air plunger. Other than that, it's an adequate air brush for the job.<span style="font-weight: bold"> If you're doing this full time, then you need to consider something better like an Iwata as suggested.</span> </div></div>
This is consistent with my experience thus far. Given the amount I use this thing probably an upgrade is in order.
I've likely just worn the damn thing out.
Re: air brush recomendations
Check out TCPglobal and they have an assortment of airbrushes for great prices.You can get any paint supplies there.I bought some cheap airbrush from there It is the Master G43 and it does good.But they carry others as well.The dual action to me is better because if you put it on too wet you can you just the air to help dry before it starts to run.
Check out TCPglobal and they have an assortment of airbrushes for great prices.You can get any paint supplies there.I bought some cheap airbrush from there It is the Master G43 and it does good.But they carry others as well.The dual action to me is better because if you put it on too wet you can you just the air to help dry before it starts to run.
Re: air brush recomendations
I used a Badger 350 for several years with good results for Norrell's, DuraCoat and Cerakote. As stated, if you are using MEK you will end up replacing O rings in it periodically. I got tired of that and bought a $100 Iwata dual action which has been fantastic. It breaks down quickly and easily for cleaning and I have much more comtrol over air and paint flow.
I also stopped using MEK. Acetone will work just as well for cleaning your brush. I don't know that acetone is any easier on your body than MEK but I've read so much about how nasty MEK is I decided to stop using it.
I used a Badger 350 for several years with good results for Norrell's, DuraCoat and Cerakote. As stated, if you are using MEK you will end up replacing O rings in it periodically. I got tired of that and bought a $100 Iwata dual action which has been fantastic. It breaks down quickly and easily for cleaning and I have much more comtrol over air and paint flow.
I also stopped using MEK. Acetone will work just as well for cleaning your brush. I don't know that acetone is any easier on your body than MEK but I've read so much about how nasty MEK is I decided to stop using it.
Re: air brush recomendations
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I also stopped using MEK. A<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">cetone will work just as well for cleaning your brush.</div></div> I don't know that acetone is any easier on your body than MEK but I've read so much about how nasty MEK is I decided to stop using it.</div></div>
Didn't know that. Thanks for the tip.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I also stopped using MEK. A<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">cetone will work just as well for cleaning your brush.</div></div> I don't know that acetone is any easier on your body than MEK but I've read so much about how nasty MEK is I decided to stop using it.</div></div>
Didn't know that. Thanks for the tip.
Re: air brush recomendations
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Phylodog</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I also stopped using MEK. Acetone will work just as well for cleaning your brush. I don't know that acetone is any easier on your body than MEK but I've read so much about how nasty MEK is I decided to stop using it. </div></div>
MEK is the primary carrier solvent in Molyresin, acetone & MEK are very similar except acetone flashes off & evaporates faster. Neither are good for you, unfortunately not even the heavier nitrile gloves hold up to MEK. Wear a respirator, ventilate and limit contact as much as possible by using the natural bristle brushes to clean up with.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Phylodog</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I also stopped using MEK. Acetone will work just as well for cleaning your brush. I don't know that acetone is any easier on your body than MEK but I've read so much about how nasty MEK is I decided to stop using it. </div></div>
MEK is the primary carrier solvent in Molyresin, acetone & MEK are very similar except acetone flashes off & evaporates faster. Neither are good for you, unfortunately not even the heavier nitrile gloves hold up to MEK. Wear a respirator, ventilate and limit contact as much as possible by using the natural bristle brushes to clean up with.
Re: air brush recomendations
I got a Pasche from TCglobal. Works well with duracoat.
I got a Pasche from TCglobal. Works well with duracoat.
Re: air brush recomendations
i got a cheap one from tc gloval. i wanted one i coule hook to a air compressor so i didn't have to worry about running out of air in the middle of a project.
thanks folks
i got a cheap one from tc gloval. i wanted one i coule hook to a air compressor so i didn't have to worry about running out of air in the middle of a project.
thanks folks
Re: air brush recomendations
Go with iwata you will be happier.
Go with iwata you will be happier.
Re: air brush recomendations
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 42769vette</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i got a cheap one from tc gloval. i wanted one i coule hook to a air compressor so i didn't have to worry about running out of air in the middle of a project.
thanks folks </div></div>
I bought a small oilless compressor (3.5L?) that runs a lot, but never runs out of air using my air brush.
I figured that my shop air would need filters and driers, etc to make sure the air was clean enough.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 42769vette</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i got a cheap one from tc gloval. i wanted one i coule hook to a air compressor so i didn't have to worry about running out of air in the middle of a project.
thanks folks </div></div>
I bought a small oilless compressor (3.5L?) that runs a lot, but never runs out of air using my air brush.
I figured that my shop air would need filters and driers, etc to make sure the air was clean enough.
Re: air brush recomendations
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mark Housel</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 42769vette</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i got a cheap one from tc gloval. i wanted one i coule hook to a air compressor so i didn't have to worry about running out of air in the middle of a project.
thanks folks </div></div>
I bought a small oilless compressor (3.5L?) that runs a lot, but never runs out of air using my air brush.
I figured that my shop air would need filters and driers, etc to make sure the air was clean enough. </div></div>
are you telling me i cant hook this up to my current compressor due to the air not being clean enough
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mark Housel</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 42769vette</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i got a cheap one from tc gloval. i wanted one i coule hook to a air compressor so i didn't have to worry about running out of air in the middle of a project.
thanks folks </div></div>
I bought a small oilless compressor (3.5L?) that runs a lot, but never runs out of air using my air brush.
I figured that my shop air would need filters and driers, etc to make sure the air was clean enough. </div></div>
are you telling me i cant hook this up to my current compressor due to the air not being clean enough
Re: air brush recomendations
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 42769vette</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mark Housel</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 42769vette</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i got a cheap one from tc gloval. i wanted one i coule hook to a air compressor so i didn't have to worry about running out of air in the middle of a project.
thanks folks </div></div>
I bought a small oilless compressor (3.5L?) that runs a lot, but never runs out of air using my air brush.
I figured that my shop air would need filters and driers, etc to make sure the air was clean enough. </div></div>
are you telling me i cant hook this up to my current compressor due to the air not being clean enough </div></div>
I don't know what you have as a compressor so I'm not saying that.
It's just that when I first started spraying Norell's I was reading somewhere that regular shop compressors can leave oil/moisture in the air and cause problems.
I just went on that and bought the little compressor for my air brush on that basis.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 42769vette</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mark Housel</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 42769vette</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i got a cheap one from tc gloval. i wanted one i coule hook to a air compressor so i didn't have to worry about running out of air in the middle of a project.
thanks folks </div></div>
I bought a small oilless compressor (3.5L?) that runs a lot, but never runs out of air using my air brush.
I figured that my shop air would need filters and driers, etc to make sure the air was clean enough. </div></div>
are you telling me i cant hook this up to my current compressor due to the air not being clean enough </div></div>
I don't know what you have as a compressor so I'm not saying that.
It's just that when I first started spraying Norell's I was reading somewhere that regular shop compressors can leave oil/moisture in the air and cause problems.
I just went on that and bought the little compressor for my air brush on that basis.
Re: air brush recomendations
Take a look at either the Iwata LPH80 or Sharpe Finex FX1000 Mini HVLP Guns instead. My Airbrush is an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and I use it for small detail work. I use the Sharpe FX1000 for all other coatings to include Polane T (Duracoat), KG Gun Kote and Cerakote. The Sharpe and LPH80 are very close.
My experience is that with an airbrush being used for larger jobs the coating isnt as even or smooth as it is with the HVLP guns. For me, I'm fighting dry spray with the airbrush on larger surfaces.
Take a look at either the Iwata LPH80 or Sharpe Finex FX1000 Mini HVLP Guns instead. My Airbrush is an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and I use it for small detail work. I use the Sharpe FX1000 for all other coatings to include Polane T (Duracoat), KG Gun Kote and Cerakote. The Sharpe and LPH80 are very close.
My experience is that with an airbrush being used for larger jobs the coating isnt as even or smooth as it is with the HVLP guns. For me, I'm fighting dry spray with the airbrush on larger surfaces.
Re: air brush recomendations
Roscoe is correct. If you are doing larger jobs a HVLP gun is a much better route. The finish will come out much nicer and more consistent. Best advice I can give you for either is make sure you clean it super good after each use. If not you will have an expensive paperweight. Clean guns are key to good finishes.
Roscoe is correct. If you are doing larger jobs a HVLP gun is a much better route. The finish will come out much nicer and more consistent. Best advice I can give you for either is make sure you clean it super good after each use. If not you will have an expensive paperweight. Clean guns are key to good finishes.
Re: air brush recomendations
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Take a look at either the Iwata LPH80 or Sharpe Finex FX1000 Mini HVLP Guns instead. My Airbrush is an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and I use it for small detail work. I use the Sharpe FX1000 for all other coatings to include Polane T (Duracoat), KG Gun Kote and Cerakote. The Sharpe and LPH80 are very close.
My experience is that with an airbrush being used for larger jobs the coating isnt as even or smooth as it is with the HVLP guns. For me, I'm fighting dry spray with the airbrush on larger surfaces. </div></div>
+1
i use the Iwata HP-CS Kustom airbrush, LPH-80 mini gun and LPH-400LV full size gun.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Take a look at either the Iwata LPH80 or Sharpe Finex FX1000 Mini HVLP Guns instead. My Airbrush is an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and I use it for small detail work. I use the Sharpe FX1000 for all other coatings to include Polane T (Duracoat), KG Gun Kote and Cerakote. The Sharpe and LPH80 are very close.
My experience is that with an airbrush being used for larger jobs the coating isnt as even or smooth as it is with the HVLP guns. For me, I'm fighting dry spray with the airbrush on larger surfaces. </div></div>
+1
i use the Iwata HP-CS Kustom airbrush, LPH-80 mini gun and LPH-400LV full size gun.
Re: air brush recomendations
The link in the post above by MinorDamage is where I get all my airbrush supplies, good folks to deal with. They also carry parts for just about every airbrush made. If you order an airbrush only, most don't come with a air hose so make sure you get the hose in the deal. I would also recommend getting the small inline filter that goes between the airbrush and hose, it's small and doesn't get in the way; especially if you don't have any other filters in the system.
The link in the post above by MinorDamage is where I get all my airbrush supplies, good folks to deal with. They also carry parts for just about every airbrush made. If you order an airbrush only, most don't come with a air hose so make sure you get the hose in the deal. I would also recommend getting the small inline filter that goes between the airbrush and hose, it's small and doesn't get in the way; especially if you don't have any other filters in the system.
Re: air brush recomendations
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I know you already ordered one, but it may be better to see if you can send it back and get one with a higher build quality</div></div>.
I'm confused by this?
Before I make a mistake and buy from the place offering the best deal on a particular model.
Isn't Iwata a <span style="font-weight: bold">brand</span> of airbrush?
Why would there be a difference in Iwata airbrushes depending on who you buy them from?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I know you already ordered one, but it may be better to see if you can send it back and get one with a higher build quality</div></div>.
I'm confused by this?
Before I make a mistake and buy from the place offering the best deal on a particular model.
Isn't Iwata a <span style="font-weight: bold">brand</span> of airbrush?
Why would there be a difference in Iwata airbrushes depending on who you buy them from?
Re: air brush recomendations
If you are referring to my post then Iwata is a brand of airbrush and who you buy from is up to you. I just stated that these are the folks that I deal with and they are a good company to deal with. I use several different brands of airbrushes for different uses; Iwata, Paasche, and Badger. To answer your question an Iwata is an Iwata no matter who you buy from, I just like this company and they are very dependable.
If you are referring to my post then Iwata is a brand of airbrush and who you buy from is up to you. I just stated that these are the folks that I deal with and they are a good company to deal with. I use several different brands of airbrushes for different uses; Iwata, Paasche, and Badger. To answer your question an Iwata is an Iwata no matter who you buy from, I just like this company and they are very dependable.
Re: air brush recomendations
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Old Salt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you are referring to my post then Iwata is a brand of airbrush and who you buy from is up to you. I just stated that these are the folks that I deal with and they are a good company to deal with. I use several different brands of airbrushes for different uses; Iwata, Paasche, and Badger. To answer your question an Iwata is an Iwata no matter who you buy from, <span style="font-weight: bold">I just like this company and they are very dependable.</span> </div></div>
Ah, that of course makes perfect sense.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Old Salt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you are referring to my post then Iwata is a brand of airbrush and who you buy from is up to you. I just stated that these are the folks that I deal with and they are a good company to deal with. I use several different brands of airbrushes for different uses; Iwata, Paasche, and Badger. To answer your question an Iwata is an Iwata no matter who you buy from, <span style="font-weight: bold">I just like this company and they are very dependable.</span> </div></div>
Ah, that of course makes perfect sense.
Re: air brush recomendations
Well while we are on this topic. I have been thinking of getting one myself for Duracoat...
I've gathered most people go with the dual action. What is a decent starter airbrush without breaking the bank. Say 100.00 or less for a setup minus a compressor. I have a compressor in my garage that I can set pressure down.
Well while we are on this topic. I have been thinking of getting one myself for Duracoat...
I've gathered most people go with the dual action. What is a decent starter airbrush without breaking the bank. Say 100.00 or less for a setup minus a compressor. I have a compressor in my garage that I can set pressure down.
Re: air brush recomendations
Harder and Steenbeck Colagni. Comes with a large nozzle set and needle and a smaller for more detail. 2 for 1 with teflon seals so dont worry about the rubber O rings.
Harder and Steenbeck Colagni. Comes with a large nozzle set and needle and a smaller for more detail. 2 for 1 with teflon seals so dont worry about the rubber O rings.
