Allow myself to introduce...myself.

LOMartin

Private
Minuteman
Jul 28, 2010
20
0
39
Florida, Coral Gables
Hello,

New to long range shooting, my head spins thinking of all the variables at this point. From South Florida only have access to 100yards range locally.

I shoot mostly with the AR platform in .223(noveske) and .308(LMT MWS). Also use a 700SPS Tac but it still needs glass.

Great site you have here, all my searching on Google would lead me here so I decided to join.


Larry O M. . .
 
Re: Allow myself to introduce...myself.

Sweet bud. If you are ever in Colorado, look me up. I'll take you to a sweet rifle range, and when I'm in Florida, you can take me scuba diving. Deal?

Welcome aboard!
 
Re: Allow myself to introduce...myself.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LOMartin</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks all.

Krav69, I'll trade you a nice Long distance Rife Range Day for a day out spearfishing. </div></div>

That'll work!!!!!!
 
Re: Allow myself to introduce...myself.

If you're limited to 100yd, a .22LR can give you some of the same wind calling/feel as shooting a centerfire at a greater distance. I use a distance comparison estimate of between 2x and 4x. It's cheaper too.

Greg
 
Re: Allow myself to introduce...myself.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you're limited to 100yd, a .22LR can give you some of the same wind calling/feel as shooting a centerfire at a greater distance. I use a distance comparison estimate of between 2x and 4x. It's cheaper too.

Greg </div></div>


Greg,
I'm just getting into shooting my .22 past 25yards I still have MUCH to learn about calling wind and such. My plan is to set the .22 up just like my primary and practice from there. The photo below shows a 25yard 30round group using bulk ammo shooting off a bench pretty fast. Compared to what have I seen on the site I understand I have lot of work ahead of me.
photo-3.jpg

Thanks,
Larry O M.
 
Re: Allow myself to introduce...myself.

Well, being fast and accurate at the same time is sorta like a specialty. For what most of us here do, it's maybe a lot better to slow the pace on down somewhat, and make each shot count and deliberate.

Your shot patterning isn't all that bad, and would seem to me to be horizontal due to the influences of trigger finger pressure on the side of the pistol grip, and maybe some wind effects as well. Clean up on the former (no contact by the finger on anything but the front of the trigger, and don't pull it to either side), pay good attention to a consistent cheek position on the stock, and proceed from there.

I'm cooking up a project to downsize our club's 200yd FV200 target to half size, and place it at about 80yd for .22LR work.

How did I arrive at 80yd? Well the C/F and R/F have similar times of flight at those two distances, which can make the simulation a bit more symmetrical.

I also tend to think the degree of challenge is in the same ballpark.

Greg
 
Re: Allow myself to introduce...myself.

Greg has some very good points, just to add one more, along with your stock weld with your cheek. IF you have a very cheap scope, you may have Parallax.
Remember, consistency IS accuracy!!! Do the SAME thing EVERY time!!!

Welcome!!!
 
Re: Allow myself to introduce...myself.

Yes, parallax is a key and seldom properly understood component of chronic and unexplainable inaccuracy.

If you can yes/no wag your eye behind the eyepice and the backround and reticle tend to shift relative to each other, you've got it. If the eye is in a different place for each shot, well, you're aiming each shot at a different place. Get <span style="font-style: italic">that</span> act together and your groups could get a lot smaller. Rounder, for sure.

If your scope has a front focus feature, adjusting focus has probably been combined with adjusting parallax, since the two are (somewhat) related. Adjusting focus can alleviate the 'unstuck' nature of the background and reticle, but sometimes less expensive optics forces this to occur at the expense of a somewhat less than ideal focus. IMHO, it's better to stomp the parallax flat than accept some and get a razor sharp image.

Some scopes (typically fixed power and/or hunting scopes) have no focus or parallax adjustment, but all scopes are compensated for parallax, and these are typically factory set/compensated for an arbitrary distance, usually either 100 or 200 yards or meters.

Even if parallax correction is unadjustable (or just bad), maintaining a very consistent cheek weld can overcome the problem. It's just that the average MKI Homo Sapiens can find this pretty difficult to master really well.

Greg