Am I expecting to much???

[regency]

I shoot Knights and LMT.

They are both about 1 MOA guns on a good day, sometimes 1.5 MOA. You have to remember on these gas guns, they are made for getting multiple rounds down range quicker than a bolt gun, and that lends itself to urban (closer range) environments.

I want reliability 1st with my semi auto rifles then accuracy. I want accuracy 1st in my bolt guns because I know they don't typically ever jam. It's painful when my friends show up to the range with cheap factory guns or guns they pieced together and they have jams and feed issues. It makes for a long day.

I shoot Federal 175 gold match through my semi's and don't deviate from it. I actually have more of it stacked in my closet over 5.56 ammunition.

 

[B Man]

Do you hold the trigger at reset and load the bipod, both while staying on the glass? This has helped several friends tighten up a little. I had same scenario with a similar rig, and converted to 65cm. It’s a simple barrel swap. I think I picked up a 22” B.A.D. for $250, game changer.

I do. And tried some different pressures loading the bi pod.

Lot's of great comments but I will only focus on two...

As has been mentioned....ammo...try a different lot etc...

Barrel...how does it clean? Are you getting a lot of copper fouling out of it? If so...that's one thing to look at.

Check the muzzle crown for any damage.

How was the barrel made? If it's a button made barrel and the muzzle is threaded it is common for the bores to open up on button barrels. Last place you want to see the bore get looser/bigger is at the muzzles crown. If it opened up....you can't fix it. Other than to cut it off the threads and recrown it but I wouldn't thread the muzzle again.

Shoot it with out the muzzle brake or thread protector on it. If these are loose it will cause harmonic/vibration issues and cause accuracy issues as well.

If the muzzle brake is screwed on to tight...you can also distort the bore and again if the bore is distorted right at the muzzles crown...it will cause accuracy issues.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels

Thank you Frank. I will shoot it with nothing attached to the barrel and see how it does. So far everything (load testing) was done with the thread protector and then swapped on the break just to try it out.
It is a Rainer Arms Ultramatch mod 2 so I would guess it is button rifled. But I’m not certain.

I shoot Knights and LMT.

They are both about 1 MOA guns on a good day, sometimes 1.5 MOA. You have to remember on these gas guns, they are made for getting multiple rounds down range quicker than a bolt gun, and that lends itself to urban (closer range) environments.

I want reliability 1st with my semi auto rifles then accuracy. I want accuracy 1st in my bolt guns because I know they don't typically ever jam. It's painful when my friends show up to the range with cheap factory guns or guns they pieced together and they have jams and feed issues. It makes for a long day.

I shoot Federal 175 gold match through my semi's and don't deviate from it. I actually have more of it stacked in my closet over 5.56 ammunition.

Appreciate that. Hovering around 1moa would keep me happy for what I wanted out of the gun.

I just received 500 125gr Speer tnt bullets to load for just some range use and work on fundamentals more so we will see. I have a couple loads it seemed to like with premium bullets I can drop in it at times to see if I’m improving with it. Me or the rifle we’ll see because the inconsistency has to be one of us.

 

[Frank Green]

Pretty sure it's button rifled. I'd have the muzzle checked to see if it opened up.

The 125gr Speer bullets probably not going to be your best option especially for checking for accuracy. Bullet jump most likely will be pretty long and work against you.

 

[B Man]

Just to update because all of you were very generous to take time and try and help. I took some time away from the rifle before going back and trying some more loads in it and shooting it. I did spend some trigger time behind it with the 125gr Speer bullets just focusing on fundamentals and not as much grouping it. I think that helped. I also went back to the drawing board and tried another load that it obviously has a taste for. I haven’t gotten out past 400 yards yet as our range is a bit of a mess from some recent land work but I could manage to 400 to try it out. Everything is very consistent now which is all I wanted from it. It’s holding 1 moa or less out to 400 yds and hope to stretch it on out later. I’ll share two groups one was 250 yards the next 400 yards from the other day. Again, thank y’all.

 

[912173]

I've always wondered if the Knight's and LMT rifles being geared towards serious reliability leads them to having less than optimal specs for max accuracy. I figure more generous dimensions in the chamber and bigger gas ports could be part of it. I've always heard of large frame guns not liking hot ammo and maybe over gassing slams things around enough to effect things, even with fgmm. This is just a guess, I just always hear of guys struggling to get pretty groups with those premium rifles. I just helped a guy build an aero m5e1 with a faxon barrel and that thing is easy to shoot under an inch with. Of course it has a muzzle brake, we dialed the gas down to optimal and maybe the chamber is more accuracy friendly.

 

[captain_toad]

I pretty much only shoot .308 semiautomatics (all platforms). I'd recommend that you bring a smorgasbord of ammo (147s, 155s, 168s, and 175s) and note how the gun functions with each. I find that cycling has a massive impact on downrange accuracy. You'll know which it prefers based on recoil, ejection, and consistency (not necessarily performance) on paper.

The Tavor 7 has been a great example of this—MEN 147s print at ~1.5–2 MOA, 175s have huge vertical stringing, and 168s have minor vertical stringing. I have over 40 types of factory match ammunition and that gun's performance is remarkably similar across manufacturers.