American Rifle Company New Archimedes Action, New Xylo Chassis, and major Mausingfield revision

craigos

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The DOC adjustment - seems a bit weird. A T25 on the RHS and a dial knob on the LHS - seems like the dial knob on the LHS , when the T25 screw is loosen sometimes lowers and increases DOC as there are teeth, but seems to not engage half the time. Anyone figured it out
 

CavScout85

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The DOC adjustment - seems a bit weird. A T25 on the RHS and a dial knob on the LHS - seems like the dial knob on the LHS , when the T25 screw is loosen sometimes lowers and increases DOC as there are teeth, but seems to not engage half the time. Anyone figured it out
Don't mess with the rhs t25. Just loosen the dial knob on the left a few turns, then pull out on the right hand side knob and turn to the adjustment you want.

Then tighten lhs knob, it is there to tighten everything up and prevent cheekpiece wiggling around.
 
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craigos

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I finally assembled my rifle (got my 6GT barreled Archimedes action back on Fri late night) so spend yesterday putting her together and i noticed my buttpad was missing a chunk of rubber (about 3/4" x 1/8" on lower RH side edge of the buttpad) - received the chassis a month again but it sat in the box untouched for the last 4-6 weeks as GS was spinning my barrel. I didnt even notice it til i went to take a pic for this forum ... Pinged ARC (they are great to work with always).
 

karagias

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I'm really liking the brown grips. Would you guys prefer that we supply them with no finish at all. It's obviously easier for us but it also gives you the option of finishing them with your own custom touch. That was the original plan but would is hydrophilic (absorbs moisture) and can change dimensionally as a result. It's no problem for folks in dry climates. Nevertheless, Minmax Polyshades does a nice job keeping the grips dry and it comes in many colors in both satin an gloss. A small can is really inexpensive.

Will someone please checker a pair? It's gonna happen...

Ted
 
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chrome

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I'm really liking the brown grips. Would you guys prefer that we supply them with no finish at all.
Big Yes to the above. Usually brown/black dont go together right, at least thats what my wife says. But on Xylo, its fucking hot.

It's obviously easier for us but it also gives you the option of finishing them with your own custom touch. That was the original plan but would is hydrophilic (absorbs moisture) and can change dimensionally as a result. It's no problem for folks in dry climates. Nevertheless, Minmax Polyshades does a nice job keeping the grips dry and it comes in many colors in both satin an gloss. A small can is really inexpensive.

Will someone please checker a pair? It's gonna happen...

Ted
Thanks for the tip on the minmax polyshades.
 

gnochi

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It is gonna happen, and hopefully so will G10 or micarta grips. ;)
On this note - G10 side panels are fine, but if they continue to the rear it has a small tendency to send glass fibers into your palm. Not recommended.

I find myself strangely attracted to the brown, too. The only “aesthetic improvement” I can see beyond that is going a few shades lighter to gunmetal instead of black.
 

Steel head

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I'm really liking the brown grips. Would you guys prefer that we supply them with no finish at all. It's obviously easier for us but it also gives you the option of finishing them with your own custom touch. That was the original plan but would is hydrophilic (absorbs moisture) and can change dimensionally as a result. It's no problem for folks in dry climates. Nevertheless, Minmax Polyshades does a nice job keeping the grips dry and it comes in many colors in both satin an gloss. A small can is really inexpensive.

Will someone please checker a pair? It's gonna happen...

Ted
Ted, I build fly fishing rods with wood reel seats.
We stabilize our woods by submerging them in resins under vacuum.
It makes them very durable and stable without making them look ugly.

A set of cocobolo Grips would be the bomb!
 
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Cascade Hemi

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I'm really liking the brown grips. Would you guys prefer that we supply them with no finish at all. It's obviously easier for us but it also gives you the option of finishing them with your own custom touch. That was the original plan but would is hydrophilic (absorbs moisture) and can change dimensionally as a result. It's no problem for folks in dry climates. Nevertheless, Minmax Polyshades does a nice job keeping the grips dry and it comes in many colors in both satin an gloss. A small can is really inexpensive.

Will someone please checker a pair? It's gonna happen...

Ted
I prefer them unfinished. I don't like the tool marks so after sanding a set of mediums out all I had to do was add oil. My grips actually came out pretty dark but still distinctly brown.
 

Kimber.204

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With the Covid-19 restrictions loosening a bit I was finally able to get to the range with my Archimedes / XYLO combo. I'd been doing a bit of dry firing with the XYLO and a Bighorn barreled action, but I ordered the Archimedes a couple weeks ago.

XYLO:
I really love this stock. After sighting in I played with different butt stock and hand stop positions for standing/sitting/prone slung up with my shooting coat on (shooting NRA HighPower). Here are my thoughts after a 50rd practice match:
  1. The stock is solid, the butt stock locks up and doesn't move. I was getting a little squeak in the butt pad, but then realized I hadn't tightened one of the screws when I lowered the butt pad for standing.
  2. The butt stock adjustments are easier than my Eliseo Tube Gun even though the Eliseo design allows for more movement overall. But the additional movement isn't really missed. I can shoot High Master scores with my non-adjustable service rifle, so the amount of adjustment the XYLO allows for in the butt stock is perfect for fine tuning.
  3. The magazine lock up is great. I fumbled the mag release in my prone rapid stage. I would really like a wider paddle ...sort of like a Hawkins DBM or a JAE-700. I'll probably make one on the 3D printer when I get a chance.
  4. In prone slow fire this gun just didn't move. I couldn't believe how steady the gun was (I ate greasy/salty fast food and caffeinated soda before going to the range, so I was quite surprised). The grip and the flat forend were almost perfect.
  5. The grip, even with the larger grip, is still a little too small for me. I shot it with the standard grip on, but I'm going to take the large grip and bondo it to fit my hand a little better. I want more material in the hollow of my hand, I feel like, but can't confirm yet, that this will give me a little bit more control.
  6. In standing, with the butt pad adjusted down I need a little more height under the forend. I've got a tapered riser in the 3D printer right now that I'll drop an Anschutz rail into. I set it up so that I can add aluminum or steel spacers between the riser and the stock for additional height (and weight).
  7. For my purposes I wish it weighed a little more. I see that ARC now has chassis weights available on their website, and I might look into that, but I'll wait to play with it once my riser is installed and working. Regarding weight, I'm only running a Medium Palma or Rem Varmint contour....for my purposes the heavier contours make it too muzzle heavy.
  8. I also noticed a little resonance or pinging when firing a shot. I haven't had an aluminum chassis before, so I don't know how common that it. I have shot McMillans/Manners/J Allens and never had that issue. The J Allen, while aluminum has a molded skin that helps to dampen noise and vibration. I'm sure with additional weight that this issue would be eliminated.
Archimedes:

I became interested in this action as soon as I spent some time behind my Mausingfield (M7). My Mausingfield has a heavier bolt lift than my Bighorn TL3, but when you close the bolt it feels like the Mausingfield sucks the bolt out of my hand and closes on it's own....it's amazing. (as a side note the TL3 is basically a 50/50 bolt so it has a lighter lift when opening, which is great, but it takes just as much force to close it, not a big deal, just different.....I can still run it fast and clean the sitting and prone rapid fire targets). So, with the Archimedes I was looking for a lighter bolt lift and still no force to close the bolt. When I pulled the action out of the box I was disappointed....it was stiff to say the least, and if felt much heavier than my Mausingfield bolt. I know how my TL3 improved after a few thousand rounds, so I didn't let it worry me too much. Everything was lubricated correctly and after about 60 rounds and almost double that amount of dry firings the bolt is running much smoother. Now it is a notably lighter bolt lift than my Mausingfield, still heavier than the TL3. The force required to close it is less than the TL3 and about the same as the Mausingfield. I do notice the slightly shallower angle for the bolt lift, and I like it. The bolt starts moving backwards before the M7 or TL3 have reached the top of their strokes. I have not quantified this, but I think it may be my fastest action to operate. A note on triggers - I'm using a Tubb T7T. After I adjusted the pull weight for the stages it has you adjust the sear engagement as well. Doing this helped even more with feel of the bolt operation on the Archimedes. So, which is my favorite of these three.......I don't know honestly, ask me in a few thousand rounds. I'm not in a hurry to offload any of them, and I have no issues getting rid of something that I'm not going to use. I do think that I'll be ordering another bolt head for the Archimedes so that I can put my 220 Thunderbolt barrel on it though.

@karagias you and your team are doing a great job....your products are top of the line in design and finish and they're almost all in stock right now. Keep up the good work.

Regards,
Ross
 

craigos

craigos from Scout 2015
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I finally assembled my rifle (got my 6GT barreled Archimedes action back on Fri late night) so spend yesterday putting her together and i noticed my buttpad was missing a chunk of rubber (about 3/4" x 1/8" on lower RH side edge of the buttpad) - received the chassis a month again but it sat in the box untouched for the last 4-6 weeks as GS was spinning my barrel. I didnt even notice it til i went to take a pic for this forum ... Pinged ARC (they are great to work with always).
Thanks to ARC - their CS is second to none.
 

craigos

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We've been using Minmax Polyshades, gloss ebony and rubbed with a brown 3M Scotch Brite pad.

Ted
I like the finished ones personally, i bought the large grips and will try and refinish as above. My covid project :)
 
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leftyk82

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Can anyone get a measurement with the large grips? Looking for distance of trigger shoe to rear-most part of the grip, please. Bonus points if you have a T7T.

1591125862790.png
 

Kimber.204

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Here's some pic's of my setup.
The grips shown are the large...I'm playing with them deciding if I want to add to them or not with some Bondo. I wanted to coat them in the mean time and I used Obenauff's heavy duty leather preservative (basically bees wax and tree resin). I did two coats working the wax in with my fingers and letting it dry before wiping it off. I expect that when it gets hot (or I'm in the middle of a 20 min slow fire string) that it will get tacky. But I only expect that to happen once or twice. You can also see I have my T7T pushed all the way forward. I wanted to try having to reach for the trigger a little bit, and with the generous first stage on the T7T trigger it's not noticeable at all. My skinny finger has no issue getting where it needs to be even during rapid fire.

You can also see the stock riser that I 3D printed. It is about 13 inches long ....too long for my printer, so I printed it in sections and created dovetails in SolidWorks. My first guess and the required gap was good. The parts slid together with a little force, and wouldn't come apart without similar force. Right now it's bolted to the forend of the XYLO, but I'll probably make another one with t-nuts for the Anschutz rail. Speaking of rails, I had an old rail laying around and it is in the bottom of the stock riser. Unfortunately it is a Freeland rail so my Anschutz rail accessories won't fit...new Anschutz rail already inbound. The riser helps out with scope height in standing and sitting (for NRA Highpower). I haven't fired it yet in prone. It may not help me in prone much, so I may need/want the ability to remove it easily. I was trying to create a metal chassis version of a MasterClass HighPower stock.....and I think I succeeded. For a reference, the magazine is an ARC ten rounder.

Enjoy,
Ross

IMG_20200602_134009864_HDR.jpgIMG_20200602_134019989_HDR.jpg
 
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Boatninja

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I'm really liking the brown grips. Would you guys prefer that we supply them with no finish at all. It's obviously easier for us but it also gives you the option of finishing them with your own custom touch. That was the original plan but would is hydrophilic (absorbs moisture) and can change dimensionally as a result. It's no problem for folks in dry climates. Nevertheless, Minmax Polyshades does a nice job keeping the grips dry and it comes in many colors in both satin an gloss. A small can is really inexpensive.

Will someone please checker a pair? It's gonna happen...

Ted
Somebody has probably already said it but I have sanded mine down and oiled natural and get a lot o attention at the range. I also have some exotic woods , I’d like to be able to change them up just like I do my barrels.
 

Cascade Hemi

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Somebody has probably already said it but I have sanded mine down and oiled natural and get a lot o attention at the range. I also have some exotic woods , I’d like to be able to change them up just like I do my barrels.
I bought a medium set and it was a perfect fit for my hand...until I sanded out the tooling marks and now it feels too small. I have large grips on my bench that I also sanded out and are waiting on a second coat of Linseed oil. Linseed oil makes the grips fairly dark. I over did the oil on the first set of medium grips and they're very dark. The second set of large grips are a little lighter.
 

Kimber.204

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What cocking piece are you using with the T7T?
When I ordered my Archimedes a few weeks ago, I asked if I should send my trigger (T7T) in so they could get the right cocking piece and they told me that I could, but the standard should work just fine....and it works flawlessly.
 

craigos

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When I ordered my Archimedes a few weeks ago, I asked if I should send my trigger (T7T) in so they could get the right cocking piece and they told me that I could, but the standard should work just fine....and it works flawlessly.
sent in my T7t, my geissele super700 and my BnA tacpsort on my arch -- the t7t and bna used the default cocking piece, the super 700 needed a different one.
 

clyancey

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Anyone know of or working on an integrated mirage sheild that could mount solidly enough over the barrel to accept some down pressure from off side hand during positional shooting? Figured it could be made of a stiff kydex possibly, or 3D printed. Or am I the only one mulling this over? I know they have the Night Vision mount, but its a bit big/heavy and short to be a good mirage shield.
 

b6graham

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Anyone know of or working on an integrated mirage sheild that could mount solidly enough over the barrel to accept some down pressure from off side hand during positional shooting? Figured it could be made of a stiff kydex possibly, or 3D printed. Or am I the only one mulling this over? I know they have the Night Vision mount, but its a bit big/heavy and short to be a good mirage shield.
Kydex attached to mlok shouldn't be hard at all. or the holes that are above.