I think it will still work but I'd call them to make sure.
- Thread starter karagias
- Start date
I think it will still work but I'd call them to make sure.
The measurement difference is 0.185in; conveniently, the Nucleus recoil lug is 0.185in thick. There’s an additional couple thou of possible tolerance stackup but you can get ~0.010” of accommodation using the BARLOC. You’ll be good to go.
Note that barrel timing may be slightly off if you tighten onto the go gauge; you’re probably within the Go Gauge to Field Gauge range after tightening the BARLOC if you maintain barrel timing.
Edit; awesome, it looks like the BARLOC is for sale again. FWIW my rifle got knocked off my bench this afternoon and took a hard hit each to the muzzle brake and scope (Athlon Cronus BTR 4.5-29x56), and the first and subsequent shots after I picked it back up hit an IPSC at 1000yd. I have the nut variant BARLOC on a Savage prefit.
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- Feb 15, 2017
- 29
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Great! Thanks for clearing that up. I just picked up my action yesterday, I'll have to put it together today to see how it interfaces.
As for the BARLOC, I know the rumor is that it might loose zero if it is bumped. But has there been any sort of verification of this, officially? ARC's website still states that it hasn't been tested by them. You'd think that one would want to stomp out that rumor by testing, or if found valid, fix the issue as it erodes consumer confidence in the product. So far ARC has been all over getting the issues fixed with the Nucleus striker spring and the Archimedes release.
I just wish they would slow down with the release of new products to ensure they are completely ready to go....but that's like, my opinion man.
I'm not seeing any mention of Archimedes/M3 in that link.
Anyone willing to compare and/or try their Nucleus striker spring in their Archimedes, for science?
I have a Nucleus and have a 15, 19 and have ordered a 25 pound spring.
I plan on using firing pin spring weight and firing pin protrusion to tune my Archimedes. And with the extra cocking piece I have coming I should be able figure out the perfect, for me, feel.
The only primers I had problems with in my Nucleus is hard Military primers. Commercial primers are not an issue, so far.
I spent an afternoon measuring and adjusting. With the 15 pound spring and .032” firing pin protrusion my Nucleus has a pretty amazing bolt throw now. And so far no light strikes using FGMM primers.
I suspect adjusting the firing pin protrusion, using a lightweight firing pin spring and different co king piece I can duplicate it in the Archimedes.
I plan on using firing pin spring weight and firing pin protrusion to tune my Archimedes. And with the extra cocking piece I have coming I should be able figure out the perfect, for me, feel.
The only primers I had problems with in my Nucleus is hard Military primers. Commercial primers are not an issue, so far.
I spent an afternoon measuring and adjusting. With the 15 pound spring and .032” firing pin protrusion my Nucleus has a pretty amazing bolt throw now. And so far no light strikes using FGMM primers.
I suspect adjusting the firing pin protrusion, using a lightweight firing pin spring and different co king piece I can duplicate it in the Archimedes.
I believe it was more with the shouldered barrel version.
if preloaded as per directions I haven’t heard of any problems with the barrel nut version
ARC did some testing and found that they could produce POI shift with the Barloc. They also found that they could produce POI shift with shouldered barrels. Just depends on how hard you smack things around.
I've done some testing with my shouldered setup and what I found is that within reason (I tried to replicate what I thought would be the worst-case drop/impact in a match) there is no POI shift IF when you torque the screw down there is still a gap on the top side of the barloc. The same holds true with the savage nut styles where you torque the nut first to ensure a gap exists when the screw is tightened.
I did one of these last year and it’s my absolute favorite gun. Good to hear there are still some shorts left. Wish there were more longs.
Whoops, I had M7 stuck in ny head as Archimedes. The post you quoted has been struck through and edited.
- Feb 15, 2017
- 29
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Good info, thank you.
I put the barrel on yesterday, after setting headspace, tightening the BARLOC, my BARLOC clamp has no gap, and the two sides look to be touching against each other. You are right, when installing the BARLOC with Nut, you are to tighten the nut until you can fit the nut wrench in between the gap in the clamp, then torque the clamp screw to 90inlbs. I wonder if, with the shouldered barrel using the BARLOC clamp, that I'm not getting enough forcing function due to those two points touching under torque?
I saw a few months back that PVA had Bushings for shouldered barrels intended for Nucleus actions with BARLOC. I'm assuming these are so the customer can just torque the barrel to the action using a wrench, like a normal person.
One day turn around. I asked for a shipping label on Friday, received label and dropped off at UPS on Friday (same day), they received the action Monday, I received shipping notification on Tuesday. I sent a TT Pro trigger and they timed it at no charge with a 35 cocking piece. I'm having a hard time being upset.
I just received shipment notification as well. They received my full action and Geissele trigger yesterday at 11am. I'm thinking they may just be putting new bolts in them and getting them out the door. I can't see how they could machine them and get them coated in 24hrs.
Glad you guys are getting them back quick. Maybe they will start sending out the ones that have been paid for but were being held because of this
Got mine out today. Pre-fix as I'm running mine this weekend at the GAP Grind. Can definitely tell there's a bump to overcome on the final bit before turning the bolt down. Otherwise she ran flawlessly, throwing brass halfway across the range when running hard.
For those that have it in hand... what is the measurement for the threaded tenon depth of the action (i.e. ~.700” for Remington 700). Im trying to get a McMillan going for it but since they haven't had one they don't know for sure the length and my barrel is just a proof sendero blank at the moment. I am trying to figure out the barrel cylinder measurement for them. Uncut is measures 3.03 to the first taper
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Sir, I could not help but notice that your rifle seems to have some sort of metallic arm sticking off of it on the left hand side of the action. Perhaps the folks at ARC can correct this for you at the same time as they perform the other fix.
Edit: Lemme say G'damn to the folks at ARC... add me to the one day turnaround list. I sent in my complete action (to include the Calvin Elite), and while UPS took their sweet time getting it to ARC, Ted and the crew sure as hell didn't take any time getting it turned around... just got the shipping notification that it's headed back my way after only a few hours onsite. Bravo to the ARC team!
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Sir, I could not help but notice that your rifle seems to have some sort of metallic arm sticking off of it on the left hand side of the action. Perhaps the folks at ARC can correct this for you at the same time as they perform the other fix.
Yeah it's weird... All my rifles seem to be afflicted with that protrusion... I did give her a facelift though. She looks good at least.
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Got mine back today, smooooth. Probably smoother than my M5. It's going to be a fast action I think.
*** Edited After Cooling Off ***
Just got my action back and the bolt handle has substantial wear down to bare metal. I was pretty upset about this as the action was going into a gun being given as a gift. I called ARC and apparently this is the result of running the bolt while testing the trigger. They said this is supposed to be a wear point. I wish they would have treated the handle to help prevent this. It's an awfully expensive action to have bare metal visible with the bolt closed.
Just got my action back and the bolt handle has substantial wear down to bare metal. I was pretty upset about this as the action was going into a gun being given as a gift. I called ARC and apparently this is the result of running the bolt while testing the trigger. They said this is supposed to be a wear point. I wish they would have treated the handle to help prevent this. It's an awfully expensive action to have bare metal visible with the bolt closed.
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That picture is straight out of the box and I dont have a single bolt action rifles that has bare metal on the bolt handle from running the bolt.
I haven't sent mine in yet, but I'm pretty sure my bolt looks very similar just from cycling it. Mine you can't see when the bolt is closed and since the hardening they use is in the metal and not the finish, I'm not worried about it. I was planning on using mine anyway not entering it into beauty pageants.
Of note, when I covered the worn area with sharpie and cycled the bolt a bunch of times, it came back in the same spot.
I'm still not worried about it, but if you call ARC on Monday, I'm pretty sure they'll make everything right.
Edit to add the pic.
Of note, when I covered the worn area with sharpie and cycled the bolt a bunch of times, it came back in the same spot.
I'm still not worried about it, but if you call ARC on Monday, I'm pretty sure they'll make everything right.
Edit to add the pic.
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Mine is clearly visible with the bolt closed. It's right there on the top. No one is shotting in beauty pageants but this build was going to be surprise for my wife and I'd sure like to give her a rifle that didn't look used.
It sounds like you are suggesting ARC blamed the customer here.
Spife7980 sort of mentioned it as a possibility, but that's not ARC, thats just a member here trying to think of reasons for the wear line. I have a wear line just like that on my Ruger Precision Rifle after a bunch of range trips (but that entire rifle was cheaper than just the Archimedes action so I don't care). So, Spifes point is that it can be a wear point, not really placing blame, just bringing up the possibility.
Mine has some wear in that location from cycling.
It was the suggestion that it was there before being sent back. That is not a wear mark. There is no feathering, those scratches if happened during cycling would suggest to me a lay person in metallurgy that that contact area needs some work.
The suggestion that it doesn’t matter the condition someone returns your item. I grew up as “same or better condition”. Washed lawnmower or car tank full of gas. This idea that anyone should be content with less than that merely because their item isn’t a safe queen.
The suggestion that it doesn’t matter the condition someone returns your item. I grew up as “same or better condition”. Washed lawnmower or car tank full of gas. This idea that anyone should be content with less than that merely because their item isn’t a safe queen.
I added a pic to my last post. The one I have has a similar, but not as pronounced wear mark in the same place. I couldn't readily tell exactly where the rubbing is coming from. It's something different for sure, but there's never really been an action that works this way, so I'm sure there are going to be some differences.
But there really isn't any reason to get emotionally angry about it. Call ARC tomorrow and talk with them. I am confident that they will make everything right. I can totally understand the annoyance with the thing just being returned though.
But there really isn't any reason to get emotionally angry about it. Call ARC tomorrow and talk with them. I am confident that they will make everything right. I can totally understand the annoyance with the thing just being returned though.
I'm was looking at it closer and it looks to me that since they turned down the rear of the bolt a little bit it can now be push up to hit the action just barely. Looks like if the bolt handle was trimmed a few thousandths it couldn't reach the action to do this.
Correct one thing, up pops another... I'm an ARC fan but damn, I gotta admit this is turning in to a gaggle. Top it off, I paid my RH LA invoice almost a month ago and ARC still hasnt shipped it.
Edit: ARC shipped the action in its most updated revision approximately one month after payment.
Edit: ARC shipped the action in its most updated revision approximately one month after payment.
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The lever touches the action as it slides. There is a corresponding ramp on the action, the arm touches as the bolt slides forward and backward.
The extraction thing is what gets me, that was the key feature of the design, it feels like we got the trammel of Archimedes instead of the lever.
Talk to ARC on Monday. You already know what to do, but a few of you want to hen cluck around here instead.
It's clear that ARC has a strong history of taking care of their customers.
It's clear that ARC has a strong history of taking care of their customers.
I hadn't heard of anyone having extraction issues. Is that what you mean by this statement?
You should, the extractor cam on most actions gets the finish rubbed off of both surfaces. While the Arch doesn’t have an axtractor cam, can you not see that the bolt handle stops on the receiver body when in the full up position?
Yes, you’re out of line.
A few posts above yours.
I've read this entire thread thru a couple of times, and don't really see much on the Mausingfield. Do any of these issues apply to the new, M7 Mausingfield?
The action I received has 1/8" of free take up at the bolt handle before the lever does its magic and that only retracts the bolt ~0.031" and more than half of that is given away under the extractor.
I have no issues with my M7 so far. I haven't shot it yet though, still missing the barrel. But all functions seem very good.
Keep us posted.
Did you order directly from ARC? What was the lead time? I'm torn between the LRI Hunter, and the M7. I really want the M7, but not if there is a long lead time. I don't mind wating, but I'm not interested in a PVA John Hancock debacle .
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