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An active duty AR commentary.

ut755ln

Rub some dirt on it
Supporter
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 24, 2011
525
361
Houston Texas
I mentioned in the other thread about my son and he said it would be alright if I shared what he is working with right now and he had some follow up commentary on the "throwing some shade" thread. He is currently assigned to Land Warfare in the USN. His duty weapon is a combination of a lot of parts and not an all original rifle. He has been training quite a bit for CQB and this is what he shared.

1) The lower and upper are both Colt
2) The barrel is a replacement, he thinks Lilja but it has been rattle canned and it is hard to read.
3) He has a badger ordinance gas block, DD is also common.
4) The rail is a DD cheese grater pic style at 12, 3, 6, 9. Some guys prefer a beefy mlok but he is not sure who manufactures it.
5) The flash hider and can are both surefire but he sees KAC commonly as well as a few others.
6) Iron sites are apparently optional, he has seen KAC (200 to 600) most commonly.
7) The stock and handgrips are all variable, it kind of depends on what the shooter prefers.
8) Usually the buffer system is H1 mil spec.
9) Most of the triggers are Geissle SSA
10) Because it is CQB, most of the sites are red dots and holos. The most common is EOTECH and Aimpoint. He mentioned that they almost universally use risers so that they can keep their head upright. Apparently several brands based on user preference.
11) They mostly use PEQs
12) Some like having an offset red dot or offset iron sites. The RMR is the dominant choice here.

I am pasting this part for y'all.

" I read the thread and other than a couple of people teasing about some very low end stuff, all the rifles are fine. I can't believe you sold the KAC and the BCM, there was nothing wrong with either of them. I have had two armorer courses so far and I don't know that I am completely comfortable building a weapon from parts that I would have to rely on in a fight. We have access to a wide range of vendors and for the most part they all work as long as they have good testing and are true mil-spec. Almost everyone uses a traditional lower, not an ambi. It's because we keep our trigger finger parallel to the barrel and indexed so we don't want secondary controls in the way. Also it is adding another failure point. All of the rifles that I have shot would be considered over-gassed based on my conversation with you. This is by design as we prefer dependable functionality in very adverse conditions. Because they asked, most of our equipment currently in use started life manufactured by either Colt or FN. There are clearly some guys here who can get more out of the equipment than I can but the rifles are 1 to 1.5 MOA."
 
The average adult heart is 3.5" wide, the skull 5.7" wide. Their 1.5 MOA is 2-3X good enough to get the tasking accomplished.
 
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"All of the rifles that I have shot would be considered over-gassed based on my conversation with you. This is by design as we prefer dependable functionality in very adverse conditions. "
Absolutely, & that makes perfect sense..................they need reliability, don't pick up the brass to reload it & don't care much if it gets beat up a little.

Reliability trumps striving for the ultimate in being "soft shooting" in that situation.

MM
 
But muh gucci bolt release!
I know right

I get a huge laugh out of the mall ninjas talking about transition technique etc. with the next greatest and latest 'AR enhancement product'
 
My duty weapon (LE) is as simple as I could make it within the parameters that I wanted.
It's reliable, accurate, a little heavier than I would like.
I don't have a bunch of Gucci shit on it, I did have to replace the bolt, as I was having issues with it.
Todays "tacti-cool" crowd would look at derision on the setup that Gordon used, but it worked.
 
If you really know what you are doing you can tweak your reciprocating parts a bit to get smoother shooting and reliability.
Light polishing with the correct shaped white Arkansas stones to all the trigger interfacing surfaces does magic to the "gritty" milspec trigger setups. If one is feeling spicy, you can change the trigger sear nose angle to make it just on the "captive" side when the hammer engages it like a good 1911 trigger. Not for the inexperienced as you can easily change the angle to where the sear nose won't properly engage the hammer and ruin the parts.
 
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military-grade-meme.jpg
 
These were my sentiments exactly when I was in. Now (at least in my head), I differentiate between "military grade" and "military spec."

Features don't add quality, and with respect to the OP's mention of building a parts gun, individual parts that are "within spec" is no guarantee of proper tolerances.
 
How much of that was due to average troop demographics and costs/availability and preferred gov contracts?
 
I’ll give a little on this topic. If you have a few tools (good torque wrench, headspace gauges, torque driver) and a little knowledge you can build a very nice gun.

These days I don’t trust any of the makers to build a gun I don’t have to run in with a case of ammo.

Pick high quality parts, get high quality outcomes.
 
I’ll give a little on this topic. If you have a few tools (good torque wrench, headspace gauges, torque driver) and a little knowledge you can build a very nice gun.

These days I don’t trust any of the makers to build a gun I don’t have to run in with a case of ammo.

Pick high quality parts, get high quality outcomes.
I’ll second on this comment. With the right knowledge and tools, you can build almost as good as you can buy. I’ll probably catch shit for this comment, but if you spend the money on quality parts and make sure they are properly fitted it will shoot good.
 
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I’ll second on this comment. With the right knowledge and tools, you can build almost as good as you can buy. I’ll probably catch shit for this comment, but if you spend the money on quality parts and make sure they are properly fitted it will shoot good.
I don't disagree. This whole thing has turned into me building a SBR with my son.

I have a Noveske Gen 1 lower
BCM Parts kit
Geissele SSA Trigger
VLTOR upper with forward assist
Noveske BCG
Geissele Super 42 Braided Wire Spring with H1, H2 and H3 buffers
Geissele MK 4 Rail 10.5" (I like the combo Pic and MLOK)
Badger MK 12 .75" Gas Block
Magpul CTR Stock
Dead Air Brake to go with my Sandman

We are discussing barrels but it will likely be 11.5 or 12.5". We are also looking at slings but it will likely be some kind of two point that can convert to one point. It is already pretty clear that it will not be as pretty as if I bought a premade rifle. The upper, lower and rail are all different shades of black so it will get rattle canned.
 
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I don't disagree. This whole thing has turned into me building a SBR with my son.

I have a Noveske Gen 1 lower
BCM Parts kit
Geissele SSA Trigger
VLTOR upper with forward assist
Noveske BCG
Geissele Super 42 Braided Wire Spring with H1, H2 and H3 buffers
Geissele MK 4 Rail 10.5" (I like the combo Pic and MLOK)
Badger MK 12 .75" Gas Block
Magpul CTR Stock
Dead Air Brake to go with my Sandman

We are discussing barrels but it will likely be 11.5 or 12.5". We are also looking at slings but it will likely be some kind of two point that can convert to one point. It is already pretty clear that it will not be as pretty as if I bought a premade rifle. The upper, lower and rail are all different shades of black so it will get rattle canned.

You may already know this - if so ignore me.

When I build a gun I do a few things that help it immensely from the build standpoint:

1. Get a dimpling tool for the gas block that aligns with the gas port.
2. Use a torque wrench on the castle nut, and then stake it with a pointed punch.
3. Select the highest quality buffer tube you can. People with great smooth uppers, good BCGs, etc wonder why their gun is rough. It’s the inside of the buffer tube doing it.
 
I don't disagree. This whole thing has turned into me building a SBR with my son.

I have a Noveske Gen 1 lower
BCM Parts kit
Geissele SSA Trigger
VLTOR upper with forward assist
Noveske BCG
Geissele Super 42 Braided Wire Spring with H1, H2 and H3 buffers
Geissele MK 4 Rail 10.5" (I like the combo Pic and MLOK)
Badger MK 12 .75" Gas Block
Magpul CTR Stock
Dead Air Brake to go with my Sandman

We are discussing barrels but it will likely be 11.5 or 12.5". We are also looking at slings but it will likely be some kind of two point that can convert to one point. It is already pretty clear that it will not be as pretty as if I bought a premade rifle. The upper, lower and rail are all different shades of black so it will get rattle canned.
Pretty is relative in regards to flawless function and performance……….to keep at least
 
3. Select the highest quality buffer tube you can. People with great smooth uppers, good BCGs, etc wonder why their gun is rough. It’s the inside of the buffer tube doing it.
I always add a slight amount of lube to my fingers and run it along the outside of the buffer and the buffer spring. Not so much that it will collect dirt but enough to help it glide.

Otherwise you can bet that the aluminum buffer tube will start to get scratched and get that gritty sound and feel after use. Has worked great for me.
 
I always add a slight amount of lube to my fingers and run it along the outside of the buffer and the buffer spring. Not so much that it will collect dirt but enough to help it glide.

Otherwise you can bet that the aluminum buffer tube will start to get scratched and get that gritty sound and feel after use. Has worked great for me.
WD-40 Specialist PTFE Dry Lube is my preference for that, Hornady OneShot is another that works well.
 
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WD-40 Specialist PTFE Dry Lube is my preference for that, Hornady OneShot is another that works well.
After the cold weather thread I went and got ahold of some Everlube 620C (mil spec dry film lube, molybdenum sulfide based), it's definitely not your average thing to apply and not quite as slippery as WS2, but once applied and left to bind it doesn't have WS2's propensity to come off via contact with sticky surfaces (like tape) as it has a phenolic resin binding agent.
I used a preval sprayer (same ones that duracoat sells in the kits) and followed the dilution instructions before applying to the buffer spring and some other bits. Definitely use a respirator, aersolized toluene is not a fun time. but other than needing to be done in a well vented space with a respirator, it's kind of like using any old spray can.

Once dry, it created a very noticeable improvement in smoothness of function, and should last the life of the spring easily.
 
Pretty is relative in regards to flawless function and performance……….to keep at least
My son said this rifle will be a little tamer than his work guns largely because of the gas port. I am 90% confident that he said my new rifle will be .70 and they use .75 or .80.

To answer another DM question, they do not normally use adjustable gas blocks. They do monkey around with different buffer weights but like he said up above most of their CQB weapons are over gassed.
 
You may already know this - if so ignore me.

When I build a gun I do a few things that help it immensely from the build standpoint:

1. Get a dimpling tool for the gas block that aligns with the gas port.
2. Use a torque wrench on the castle nut, and then stake it with a pointed punch.
3. Select the highest quality buffer tube you can. People with great smooth uppers, good BCGs, etc wonder why their gun is rough. It’s the inside of the buffer tube doing it.
I am with you on 1 and 2, I have never given number 3 any thought. At this point I can't remember where the buffer tube came from but now I am curious and I am going to look at it vs other options.

I also have never done what others suggested about a really light lubricant, I will check into that as well.
 
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just make sure you have a quality lpk and bcg. I only use colt, fn, AO, and DD for these. Lowers, uppers, rails etc are ALL governed by the laws of diminishing returns so pick the rollmark you like. This isn't 1995 or even 2010 and the disparity in companies producing parts has narrowed greatly, CS matters here.

oh and gunboards are probably the worst place to get advice from as there are way way too many know it alls that really don't know anything. Building a rig is easy, building a rig with quality parts is easy, there is no voodoo magic to ARs. Tools matter, buy good tools and get to work.
 
You may already know this - if so ignore me.

When I build a gun I do a few things that help it immensely from the build standpoint:

1. Get a dimpling tool for the gas block that aligns with the gas port.
Hi,

@ut755ln

If you end up heeding this advice but don't feel like ordering a tool you're going to use one time, hit me up & you can borrow mine... I'm pretty sure I have them for ⅝", ¾" & ⅞" gas journal sizes... I think they've all been used, you guessed it... Once, haha!

Sincerely,
J-Ham
 
I am with you on 1 and 2, I have never given number 3 any thought. At this point I can't remember where the buffer tube came from but now I am curious and I am going to look at it vs other options.

I also have never done what others suggested about a really light lubricant, I will check into that as well.
THe PWS buffer tube, BCM, Colt etc all have good finishes. You can feel inside for spiral machining marks and determine you have a shit one - if its smooth as butter you are GTG.

The second cause of unacceptable operating friction is poor interior finish of the bore inside the BCG. Its something to check if the bolt moves with some grit.

Eventually the gun will wear most problems out and leave you with a smooth rig, but if you want something trustworthy out of the gate better starting surface finishes will help lower your initial friction in the operating system, resulting in more friction budget for fouling.
 
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My son said this rifle will be a little tamer than his work guns largely because of the gas port. I am 90% confident that he said my new rifle will be .70 and they use .75 or .80.

To answer another DM question, they do not normally use adjustable gas blocks. They do monkey around with different buffer weights but like he said up above most of their CQB weapons are over gassed.

The government published buffer spec amd ammo recommendation save headaches when doing cqc clones. First failure to pickup the mext round and the debate begins new poorly or tigh bcg will cause the same stoppages. Its pretty easy with a little thought to determine the casue. Never had an issue on any build with milspec buffer if you use the gov recommendation