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Annealeez or??

TommyD11730

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 11, 2020
366
86
OK do I'll admit it I'm slacking in the annealing department. A drill, a torch and a metronome have been my tools of choice. I know, like I said I'm slacking.
I'm also broke so I'm trying to up my game on the cheap, so to speak.
I saw the Annealeez and was wondering, is it that much better then what I'm doing currently?
My current complaints are I have occasionally had a neck here or there require more force to size via a mandrel. That usually transfers over to the same when seating so I'm guessing my neck tension varys from case to case.
So, love or hate the machine?

Thanks!

 
I recently picked up an AGS annealer. It works great for what it is. It requires a little more attention than the anneleez, but having an open flame it's probably not a bad idea anyway.. I wanted to get into something because the drill and socket method was pretty inconsistent for me as well. Depending on what size cases you are trying to anneal some small modifications are needed. There are a few videos on YouTube that demo it.
 
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OK do I'll admit it I'm slacking in the annealing department. A drill, a torch and a metronome have been my tools of choice. I know, like I said I'm slacking.
I'm also broke so I'm trying to up my game on the cheap, so to speak.
I saw the Annealeez and was wondering, is it that much better then what I'm doing currently?
My current complaints are I have occasionally had a neck here or there require more force to size via a mandrel. That usually transfers over to the same when seating so I'm guessing my neck tension varys from case to case.
So, love or hate the machine?

Thanks!


....before you make a final decision, recommend you check out this thread:

 
To answer your question, yes it’s that much better than the drill method. I use to use the drill but then finally got the AnnealEez and it’s much more consistent. Plus it’s not very expensive compared to others and works very well. Been using mine for many years now.
 
I got the Annealeez this year.
Things I like...
You can load the "hopper" with alot of cases (over 100 6.5CM) and it does all the work.
It's pretty fast.
Its consistant from case to case.
Digital readout is a repeatable setting.

Things I wish were better.
The DRO should be in Seconds.
The aiming of the flame is just OK.
Concerns over gas pressure changing the flame temperature.

It's not an AMP but it didn't cost $1100.

I received mine very quickly and the customer service when I inquired about other wheels and a catch tray was excellent.
 
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I should clarify...
The DRO is a speed setting for the wheels, it would be nice if it was time in the flame. I use 750 degree tempilaq for the initial setting and then intermittently throughout the cases. Whether it is time or speed is irrelavent.
The DRO looks much more user friendly than the old dial setting.
 
I got the Annealeez this year.
Things I like...
You can load the "hopper" with alot of cases (over 100 6.5CM) and it does all the work.
It's pretty fast.
Its consistant from case to case.
Digital readout is a repeatable setting.

Things I wish were better.
The DRO should be in Seconds.
The aiming of the flame is just OK.
Concerns over gas pressure changing the flame temperature.

It's not an AMP but it didn't cost $1100.

I received mine very quickly and the customer service when I inquired about other wheels and a catch tray was excellent.
Get a a “magic arm” attachment off Amazon to hold the torch. Much better and more precise for the flame aiming. Cost maybe $10.
 
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Get a a “magic arm” attachment off Amazon to hold the torch. Much better and more precise for the flame aiming. Cost maybe $10.
I use "Noga" magnetic indicator bases with the hydraulic arm at work. I'm sure they would work great for this. I've only worked with one caliber so far so ease of adjustment or lack there of has been a non issue.
 
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Get a a “magic arm” attachment off Amazon to hold the torch. Much better and more precise for the flame aiming. Cost maybe $10.

This! It's very easy to move around for various cases, as well. I switch wheels and move the arm to adjust the torch often. Pretty easy to do. This is of course for the Gen 2 Annealeez... I see it was recently updated to the Gen 3 where the torch is no longer part of the unit
 
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Thanks for the reply's guys. Each machine has its merits. Speaking of, has anyone built a feeder for the EP machine?
 
Well you could always order an Annie by Fluxeon for consistency as induction is pure consistency. But you’ll be on a 4month+ waiting list. Or you can search for DIY Induction annealer and build one for $150 or so?
 
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Well you could always order an Annie by Fluxeon for consistency as induction is pure consistency. But you’ll be on a 4month+ waiting list. Or you can search for DIY Induction annealer and build one for $150 or so?
You know funny as it may sound I have an induction "heater" already. Have had it to heat automotive hardware. From day one I found it underpowered and it would take forever to heat hardware. I put it in the pile of tools I never use and put it aside.

A few weeks ago I took it out, thinking it could be the basis for a DIY tool. I cut the lead short and wrapped it around a deep socket to form the coils.
Those coils in a dark room take 13 seconds before the brass shows any glow.
So, either my tool is cooked or I'm doing something very wrong.
 
I’ve been down the automotive DIY induction heater annealing road about 10-15 years ago & every once in a while someone on here looks at adapting one of these units for annealing.

Take it from someone who’s invested the time and effort... just buy a purpose built machine and it’s one less headache to fuck with.
 
You know funny as it may sound I have an induction "heater" already. Have had it to heat automotive hardware. From day one I found it underpowered and it would take forever to heat hardware. I put it in the pile of tools I never use and put it aside.

A few weeks ago I took it out, thinking it could be the basis for a DIY tool. I cut the lead short and wrapped it around a deep socket to form the coils.
Those coils in a dark room take 13 seconds before the brass shows any glow.
So, either my tool is cooked or I'm doing something very wrong.
I can only imagine it’s a wattage issue maybe? Not sure wattage on an AMP? I’d imagine it’s upwards of over 1000. Probably 1300-1500W. Annie has a built a 1300W one as well.
 
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You know funny as it may sound I have an induction "heater" already. Have had it to heat automotive hardware. From day one I found it underpowered and it would take forever to heat hardware. I put it in the pile of tools I never use and put it aside.

A few weeks ago I took it out, thinking it could be the basis for a DIY tool. I cut the lead short and wrapped it around a deep socket to form the coils.
Those coils in a dark room take 13 seconds before the brass shows any glow.
So, either my tool is cooked or I'm doing something very wrong.
Tried thus route as well. Invested a lot of time in it with failed results. Went with a bench source annealer.
 
OK do I'll admit it I'm slacking in the annealing department. A drill, a torch and a metronome have been my tools of choice. I know, like I said I'm slacking.
I'm also broke so I'm trying to up my game on the cheap, so to speak.
I saw the Annealeez and was wondering, is it that much better then what I'm doing currently?
My current complaints are I have occasionally had a neck here or there require more force to size via a mandrel. That usually transfers over to the same when seating so I'm guessing my neck tension varys from case to case.
So, love or hate the machine?

Thanks!

I started with a salt bath set up. Enjoyed it for tinkering and low volume shooting. Hated it for high volume because it added a whole other drying step and it was slow to begin with.

I tried a torch and socket for a whopping 20 cases and said hell no.

I got an annealeeze, mine must be the V2.0 because the torch is still attached to the machine. I enjoy it over the first two methods as far as speed. Its not bad to set up either. I have 20 scrap cases I will use to set the machine up each time they help me get the torch aimed and speed set. Then I just use tempilaq to fine tune the speed with my real cases. I will say getting the torch aimed its a bit of a chore. Heaven forbid you bump it or its hose either. I am going to look into the magic arm mentioned above.
 
I'm a big fan of my Bench-Source. Its fast, repeatable, and easily adjustable. The only downside is you have to be present.
 
That EP 2.0 annealer looks very interesting.
Anyone else use this?
I'd like to know experiences with this.
 
 
That EP 2.0 annealer looks very interesting.
Anyone else use this?
I'd like to know experiences with this.
...for those of us on a fixed retirement income, you can't go wrong with the EP 2.0, glad I got one, only thing I have to buy after purchase is gas, no wheels for caliber change, no s/w updates, nada! I use it for 300BLK, 6ARC, 556, 308. Thanks Elfster!

...images of my "straight from the bag Starline 6.5G" that I annealed prior to converting to 6ARC brass.. ;-)

...FWIW, the drum also prevents the outer flame heating up the case body beyond the shoulder and may also act as a heat sink to prevent over travel too, just my $0.02...

That EP 2.0 annealer looks very interesting.
Anyone else use this?
I'd like to know experiences with this.