• New Contest Starting Now! This Target Haunts Me

    Tell us about the one that got away, the flier that ruined your group, the zero that drifted, the shot you still see when you close your eyes. Winner will receive a free scope!

    Join contest

Annealing: just getting started

ronas

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 28, 2010
575
0
71
Charleston, South Carolina
I've set up my annealing machine for 223. Using 400 degree tempilaq for checking how hot case head gets. It is less than 400 starting from base of case to 3/4" up towards the top.

I'm using 650 degree tempilaq to check shoulder temp. Problem is it never turns clear it just burns and turns black. Even tried puting it inside neck with same result.

Both tempilaqs temps are what are recommended by manuf.

Below are a few that I have done. Not sure if they look right or not. Any opinions?
p1010323.jpg
 
Re: Annealing: just getting started

Those look good to me. Color around the shoulder/neck, and NO color on the bottom of the body/casehead is all your looking for. I do the torch and tip method, myself.
 
Re: Annealing: just getting started

When my cases get to the point that I should anneal them....
I throw them out and buy more that are already properly prepped, like Lapua.
wink.gif
 
Re: Annealing: just getting started

Check the case lips. Press them easily against a board and if the neck collapses then you overannealed. It will also show up on the chonro as inconsistent velocity.
 
Re: Annealing: just getting started

I guess it looks ok. Do the press test to see if they collapse.

I have found other than that, velocity is what indicates a job well done.

Whats the setup? How many torches? How long are the cases under a flame for?
 
Re: Annealing: just getting started

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Whats the setup? How many torches? How long are the cases under a flame for?</div></div>

Bench Source machine, 2 torches, 3.2 seconds. Flame not touching brass but close, flames are about 3/4" to 1" long.

Definately do not collapes if tightened down with vise grip. If anything I might move flames closer to case for a little more annealing.

I did take a vise grip and put an annealed case in it then screwed it down tighter. Did the same with unannealed case. The annealed cases seemed more springer, less hard, more resilient than the old unannealed cases which are very very hard in comparison.
 
Re: Annealing: just getting started

Based on what you say I think your at least "in the safe zone".

Nothing will go boom in a bad way when you pull the trigger.

See how it all goes, at least you now have the equipment, you can always fine tune the timing and flame length.
 
Re: Annealing: just getting started

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Graham</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When my cases get to the point that I should anneal them....
I throw them out and buy more that are already properly prepped, like Lapua.
wink.gif
</div></div>

sounds good , did you notice the new lapua cases ( not in the blue box) come with the case mouths already deburred ?
 
Re: Annealing: just getting started

Follow David's directions to trust the Tempilaq....

Those cases look good, perhaps a 1/10" farther down the case than what I do for .223.
If your Tempilaq is turning black, you're laying it on too think. Try using some thinner. You just want enough on it to put a little color on it, not coat it like you would with paint. Also, be sure your cases are super clean before you anneal. I use stainless media so the annealing won't bake on the carbon inside the caseneck. Works well.