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Any Bicyclists here to give advice?

HodgdonExtreme

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 10, 2014
928
11
KHSV
My wife would like to buy a road bike. She's not looking to race the Tour de France, but she has been competing in triathalons, and her Giant mountain bike is entirely unsuitable.

REI has a 2013 Scott Contessa Speedster 15 on clearance for $950. Seems like a solid "entry level" bike that may not be the lightest/best on the market, but a pretty suitable machine for her.

Any other suggestions? Budget is less than $1500. Less than $1000 is better.
 
I would strongly suggest she find someone to do a fitting before buying anything. That's what I did. I found an independent guy who took measurements of me and video to determined what size/shape frame I should use. Then he gave me a list of different makes & models in my price range that would be a good fit. Then you can go buy new, or watch for those models on craigslist and get one a few years old for much less money.
 
At REI, the "fitting" consisted of finding a frame size that left the main crossbar ~1" under the crotch. Sounds like there's more to it than that.

Is this something any bicycle shop can do, or do you have to know or find "the guy"?
 
I really suggest taking a look at eBay. Fit is #1, but if you have an idea of a frame size for her size and height, you can get a really great deal if you know what you're looking for. Having said that - if it's a first bike, I too would go to a good fitter. REI would be one of my last choices for a bike purchase. Lastly - of the clients that I've worked with, I also recommend a road bike if it's going to be her only bike. Some new triathletes find a tri bike a bit intimidating, although they are certainly faster than their "road-specific cousins".
 
My advise would be for her to join a club. People are constantly updating their gear. Some clubs are sponsored by manufacturers or local bike shops. Find a bike that fits her properly, consider it a long term investment in comfort and possibly avoiding injury.
 
Find a good bike shop and get het fitted. You can always buy the bike somewhere else.
 
Bicycles have come a long way.
When I got into it many years ago, few companies made affordable yet competitive bicycles.
Cannondale and Specialized were two of the big names that one could buy a very competitive factory bike.

Hell, Schwinn got into the game offering quality bikes with Shimano 105 and ultra 600 equipment.

Then other companies started offering quality entry level bikes, one of those companies was Giant.
Here, they offer what appears to be an excellent entry level bike:
Avail 3 (2014) | Giant Bicycles | United States

I have no idea what shimano's levels of groupo's are now. Back when I rode, it was 105, 600, 600 ultra and dura-ace.
Campagnolo was the cream of the crop then, but plenty of pro's were riding with dura-ace.
 
+1 on getting a professional shop fit. Usually costs $100-150 which any good shop will deduct from the cost of the bike. If you get a shop fit and want to buy the bike elsewhere, pay the cash and get a written copy/diagram of the geometric measurements, then you can buy a frame anywhere on the basis of those measurements, and build it out with the components of your choice.
 
Yes, REI is not where I would shop. I would go to all the shops in your area and inspect and ask questions. I have been riding for...40 years. A tri specific bike is designed to have low wind resistance while riding single. A traditional road bike is a little more comfortable, and is designed for high speed in a group setting. Personally I would look at $1,000 to $1,500 used bikes as well as new ones. Ask and look, but buying from REI is likely to waste some money.

Both my bikes are about 10+ years old, but are upgraded and still very competitive to current new bikes. But they do cost $4k each... I recommend carbon fiber or titanium frames. Aluminum bikes usually/always have a harsh ride. Go and read the bike forums on the inet, she will learn a lot.
 
If she really is gung-Ho about biking and triathlons she really needs to get a good ride and get used to it. +1 on a good bike shop and +1 on getting into a club. Personally get a descent Trek. For $1000 you should be able to get at least part carbon fiber which will help tremendously on road fatigue. Getting properly fitted will also help prevent/lessen road fatigue as well as prevent injury. I spent $2000 on a fully carbon Trek with lifetime warrantee on the frame and have been happy with it ever since. You can't go wrong with a good brand and great support from your local bike shop.


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Ugh.

I feel like the schmuck that comes onto the snipershide saying "I want to a sniper rifle for shooting out to 1000 yards, what kind of rifle and scope should I get".

Soooooo.... I think we're looking to get her an FN SPR type bike. Not a Savage or an SPS tactical. Something above entry level, but not an AI. Hope you understand the analogy. Just as you can pick your favorite action, barrelmaker, bottom metal, pick a great gunsmith (like SAC) and have an awesome custom rifle, I realize the same can be done with bikes.

Trouble is, we don't know enough about them to start picking out parts for her. We didn't even realize there were triathalon specific bikes.

Sounds like step one is going to a reputable bike shop and getting her fitted.
 
Others have already said it, but pay $100 or maybe a little more and get a GOOD bike fit. Most important thing to do.... If your not comfortable on the bike it affects everything, especially if she is getting into longer tri's. The short sprints not so much, but once you get into ironman distance it's huge.


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...and most folks put too much emphasis on components. I've ridden the new 105 and it shifts nearly as well as my Ultegra or Dura Ace.


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Weight is important, however proper fit, reliability are mission critical. My favorite bike is an old chromoly double butted steel frame. It just feels right, no wheel wobble during fast downhills, corners well, tight geometry makes it a bit bouncy, a few scrapes here and there.
 
Also you will need another Fist full of dollars for the extras. Riding shorts are a must have. Pedals and shoes could set you back a few hundred. seat bag to carry extra tube and patch kit. air pump, a good helmet, some flasher lights for the back ( they may keep her from becoming road pizza). Couple extra water bottles. Couple jerseys and some socks. Tire liners to help prevent flats (if you ride you will get flats, ask anyone who rides) So another $8 or 900.
The bike is just the beginning of expenses
 
Pearl izumi outlet nearby for clothing? Look around - Performance has fair prices for womens tri stuff. A place called Competetive Cyclist has a great series of measurements you can do which will get you close. Do what they say, how they say. I live 60 miles from the nearest bike shop, so when my wife wanted a new bike Competetive Cyclist stepped up. REI is ok, just like performance. But if you want to see some decent stuff look at Excel Cycles in Colorado and competetive cyclist.

Womens seats are different than mens. otherwise it is about the measurements. I think you will be able to find something either near Detroit or the peninsula for a decent cycling shop. It is worth its weight in gold, shop local if you can. they should take care of you and make you feel welcome, otherwise, move on. Don't worry about group, Shimano 105 is awesome just like SRAM stuff in the lower levels for beginners.
 
+1 on the good fitting and finding a good bike shop

weight of the bike/components isn't as important as some make it until you are way up in the racing ranks think of it this way I weigh 207 the bike and related items (flat kit,bottles,computer etc.) is maybe 10-11% of that my ideal weight is around 185 where will the best gains be made? yep more diet and miles on the road now when I get down to single digit BF and losing races by seconds well then that sweet 16 Lb. road bike I was looking at will be considered..
I have passed a lot of lighter bikes and gotten dropped by a guy on a mountain bike as with most speed related sports it is HP/Weight ratio or as we put it watts per Kg. so yeah bike A can weigh a KG more but if rider A puts out 25 more watts the bike weight is a non issue.

Much like shooting, buy once cry once but like shooting buy sensibly and with research,the deeper you go into it the more there is to learn about it and you will be very happy with your investment, my first road bike went 16,000 miles in 10 years the new one is just starting to feel "comfortable"
12 years ago I bought a CycleOps Fluid trainer I lost track of the hours and miles and gallons of sweat I have put on it training indoors during bad weather it shows no signs of wearing out any time soon....

Fittings will aid in efficiency and ward off injuries,as she is looking at Tris the same goes in the running department, good shoes and perhaps a gait analysis to head off any run related injuries either I am sure there is a local club for more info I was lucky when I started out in Florida and fell in with the St.Pete Mad Dogs what a fun bunch and freely shared info/coaching others along.

Like a good rifle or piece of gear this will be an investment so look at it from a 3-5 year standpoint if she gets bitten by the bug there will be lots of gear, 3 sports worth
 
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Fitting the bike is most important. Even more so with a Tri bike since seat position is different than std road bike. Best place to buy is where all the racers buy their gear. Not all bike shops are equal in this regard.


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??? Im not looking to buy but the discussion sparked a question. Why is it that carbon fiber is less fatiguing than aluminum, or titanium? I should think the tires insulate you from most of the vibration. Just wondering. With traffic as bad as it tis Id be scared shit to go on the road.
 
??? Im not looking to buy but the discussion sparked a question. Why is it that carbon fiber is less fatiguing than aluminum, or titanium? I should think the tires insulate you from most of the vibration. Just wondering. With traffic as bad as it tis Id be scared shit to go on the road.

The tires are pumped up to around 100 psi, for low rolling resistance, and so transmit much of the feel of the road. Carbon, steel, and titanium all absorb road shock quite a bit. I do not know why they do and aluminum does not. Steel is a very comfortable ride, and very stable. Titanium is much like steel, but very light weight. Carbon fiber also works well, but is often damaged in a crash.

A quality used Titanium frame would be excellent, but is cost prohibitive for her on a new bike. I am sure that once she starts looking, she will develop some idea of what she likes. New bikes provide a lot for their money, and keep improving year after year.

s
 
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Thanks everyone for all the advice so far. She has an appointment with a professional fitter this coming week.

Once we know what size frame she'll need, we'll see if we can dig up a used bike with suitable frame and Shimano 105.

I'm certainly no expert, but I'm feeling less overwhelmed than even two days ago!

Ive looked into tri-bike vs road bikes. It seems like tri bikes are for the "serious" triathalete, in particular for the longer distance (Olympic+ distances) tris. It seems the key difference is how it works your muscles, and helps retain strength for the running event.

She is not looking to win tris, rather compete with herself, using equipment that is good enough so that she herself is the limiting factor.

So, do you think she should be looking at tri bikes or road bikes? The fitter will also be discussing this with her.

Thanks again everyone!
 
Any Bicyclists here to give advice?

Thanks everyone for all the advice so far. She has an appointment with a professional fitter this coming week.

Once we know what size frame she'll need, we'll see if we can dig up a used bike with suitable frame and Shimano 105.

I'm certainly no expert, but I'm feeling less overwhelmed than even two days ago!

Ive looked into tri-bike vs road bikes. It seems like tri bikes are for the "serious" triathalete, in particular for the longer distance (Olympic+ distances) tris. It seems the key difference is how it works your muscles, and helps retain strength for the running event.

She is not looking to win tris, rather compete with herself, using equipment that is good enough so that she herself is the limiting factor.

So, do you think she should be looking at tri bikes or road bikes? The fitter will also be discussing this with her.

Thanks again everyone!

Personally I would go with a road bike and put on clip on aero bars or get aero bar built in. Also get a seat post to give a wide range of seating positions.

You are right. Tri bikes are setup to maximize the use of certain muscle groups for peddling versus running thus saving muscle fatigue when comes to the run.

Most entry level groups use road bikes.


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For the record, I raced MTBs for decades (thus the XTR handle) never sponsored so I had to do all my own maintenance, you learn a lot about your bike when you work on it yourself. As a part of that I've logged 10s of thousands of miles in training in the saddle on a road bike, and spent a whole lot of time with roadies.

First she needs to decide whether or not she wants to go with a Time Trial (TT) style frame that most serious competitive Tri athletes use or if she wants to go with a more traditional road style frame for a while. If she has never really ridden on a road frame, I'd suggest a traditional geometry to start with. The ergos on a TT/Tri bike are awkward until you've been up on bikes for a while and they are purpose built. In rifle terms this is the difference in getting a dedicated single feed target rifle or having something that can do more than one task. If she is going from a MTB to a road bike the speed difference on the road is going from a 45-70 to a 308. If you have never ridden on a road bike with 18mm tires inflated to 115lbs you cannot imagine how easily they roll compared to MTBs.

What ever she decides get it fitted somewhere. Big Box stores are usually not the place for that. There is a lot more to fitting than stand over height.

Get the best groupo you can afford. I personally I would not use less than Shimano 105. Groupos are kind of like glass, you don't realize how good the "good stuff" is until you have to go back, and then you pitty the fool that has to use that stuff.

Someone up top mentioned aero bars. If she is seriously competitive she will eventually want something like that, but figure the bike out first. The aero bar position limits your bike handling ability, that is why they are not allowed in mass start events in competitive cycling. Going to aero bars is like going to a better BC bullet in competition shooting, it isn't going to get you a lot of points, but it may move you up on the one or two people above you.

I had some cycling friends who did some tri's and what they told me was that in their first couple of races they lost more time in the transition to the bike than they could possibly have made up just getting into their shoes.

Personally I would never buy an aluminum road bike frame. I'm not a sprinter or even a racer. They are cheaper, but aluminum as a rule is very stiff, so it is efficient, but it is harsh. You feel every texture of the road surface. I ride steel frames, in todays racing world I'd go carbon fiber if $$ were not an option. For any pedal pushers out there I have two road bikes, a steel Colnago Master with full Campy Record groupo (all of it polished aluminum not the ghetto black stuff they went to in the last decade or so) and a Bridgestone RB-1 with an Ultegra 6500 groupo.


I could go on a lot more, but it gets esoteric after a while. Just like shooting, at this point you don't need to get into the minutiae of components and bikes. Just like shooting, once the equipment is functional for the purpose it's not about the equipment, it's the rider. Once she is on any kind of road bikes the changes you may make will be measures in a handful of seconds here or there and not huge chunks of time.

Last peice of advice - Heart Rate Monitor, train with one!
 
I agree with the above, buy a road bike and for a triathlon use the clip on bars. The road bike will be best for a personal workout.
On components, I like Campagnolo Chorus, but Shimano is also good. I have all Campy, even the pedals. These parts last and last.

-Steve
 
You received a bunch of great advise and it looks like you are taking advantage of it. Finding a good bike shop and the ability to be correctly fit for the bike is key. A good entry level bike in your price range should not be a problem and give her the ability to upgrade components in the future. Biking can be a lot like shooting, once you really get into it, you will be on the search for the perfect end result. In a couple seasons, this one can be retired to "bad weather" riding and buy a new high end one for training, and a fixed gear for spring training and really bad weather! I have 4 out in my garage now, I just need to get my fat ass back on one ASAP! Maybe this thread will be my motivation. Good luck to her, great sport.
 
XTR's advice is spot on, and he won some man love from me by bringing up the legendary Bridgestone RB-1, have one hanging in the garage, what a sweet bike.
Also echo his comments about beer can frames, I would stretch your $$$ as much as possible to get into a carbon bike if at all possible.
Road geometry, no TT stuff, add clip ons if needed, I never had a TT specific bike and no one noticed when I passed them during the bike leg.
Start the bike portion w your shoes clipped in ahead of time, just sayin. BTDT.
 
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XTR's advice is spot on, and he won some man love from me by bringing up the legendary Bridgestone RB-1, have one hanging in the garage, what a sweet bike.
Also echo his comments about beer can frames, I would stretch your $$$ as much as possible to get into a carbon bike if at all possible.
Road geometry, no TT stuff, add clip ons if needed, I never had a TT specific bike and no one noticed when I passed them during the bike leg.
Start the bike portion w your shoes clipped in ahead of time, just sayin. BTDT.

Ha! Yes shoes clipped in is a big must do especially if you are like me and do duathlons (water and I sometimes have a disagreement) where typically the courses are run - bike - run. You are right about clip ons as they are really meant to be straight stretches. I personally don't use them. If need be I bring my hands toward the steer tube, tuck the elbows and try to flatten my back. Lastly no one said much about clipless pedals but they are a godsend and a must. I like mine with a little bit of float just so I can wiggle my feet without inadvertently clipping out.


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Get fitted by a local shop that will assemble the bike. My local guy says for entry bikes this is the way to go. He fitted me. I had it shipped to him for assembly and was gtg.
If you are the least bit mechanically inclined, the Girl just got a Motorbecane from Bikes Direct, the Grand Record.

Save up to 60% off new Road Bikes - Motobecane Grand Record

she assembled it herself and it's pretty Shit Hot for the money, $600
 
DON"T BUY NEW.

Seriously, there are a ton of bassicaly brand new bikes out there for sale, bought by people who rode a few times and stashed it in the garage.

Decide what price/range features you want and start there.
Go to a Shop and get fitted. Once you find out what size frame you/she is for each manufacture, you have a better idea what to look for.
Most Carbon frames are carbon frames. Focus on componets. High end componets are where the money is.
Check out craigslist and lowball some people there. Once you buy one, take it to a shop for a once over and tune up. They will adjust all the componets and check them for function. Tell them some bullshit story about how your uncle/aunt gave you their old bike and you are looking to get into the sport so they don't rape you on setup/tuneup fees
Remember that most people buy a bunch of shit and lose interest or decide road biking is for homos (I spent about 4K before I realized how much I hated it).

Buy used and give your self some outs if you have to sell it 6mos to a year down the road. Or if she sticks with it, is going to want a new bike or the latest greatest and won't lose your ass on the upgrade when you sell it.
 
Find a good bike shop and get het fitted. You can always buy the bike somewhere else.

Exactly. People figure if they can reach the pedals, all is well. This is so wrong. For many reasons, you're entire body must be properly fit to the bike. The geometry must be exact for her body.
 
Cobracutter above is right:

1. She'd be better off with a tri-bike, but those are expensive.
2. You can find some great deals on used bikes. Watch craigslist and/or ebay.
3. Components are where the real money and difference is made. I'd rather have a low-end frame and high-end components rather than the other way around. (within reason)

Here are some examples of bikes that might fit her needs and your budget if all else fails.

Trek Madone 2.1 T - Gregg's Cycles $1300
Specialized Roubaix Compact - Gregg's Cycles $1400
Specialized Tricross Elite Disc Compact - Gregg's Cycles $1500
Specialized Alias Sport Tri - Women's - Gregg's Cycles <-- or this one. :)
 
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Yea keep in mind, you can use a normalish road bike and still do TT, but its going to be hard to use a TT bike to do long rides and other disciplines. Just thinking about riding a TT on a half or full century makes my ass ache.
 
Just to clarify a bit, with the Bikes Direct,

The girl assembled the bike, took it around the corner to the local shop, (very big popular shop) and had them check it out, and fine tune her derailers, it cost her $15 for the safety check and they fit her there, which she always gets her stuff fitted. (she went with a different style pedal then she had been using and made sure they fit her to them. ) Her Specialized from there was close to $2k, and she was much happier building her own for $600. Hell they have $10k+ bikes there, it's the Accuracy International of shops. Still they treated her the same bringing in the bike she built herself vs buying one from them. No difference.
 
XTR's advice is spot on, and he won some man love from me by bringing up the legendary Bridgestone RB-1, have one hanging in the garage, what a sweet bike.
Also echo his comments about beer can frames, I would stretch your $$$ as much as possible to get into a carbon bike if at all possible.
Road geometry, no TT stuff, add clip ons if needed.QUOTE]

XTR and Seuss are spot on and I will join the Bro mance over the RB1. Its the only road bike I still have.

Dont shy away from a steel frame. They dont fail catastrophically like carbon fiber, the are smoother than many aluminum frames and dont cost what a Titanium frame will. If she stays with the sport this will only be a stepping stone so get something about right. If you go used or mail order then have it checked and fitted as LL suggests.

The motor(her) is the biggest part of this equation so spend what you can (time and money) but dont sweat it. A buddy and I were in a race( he was on his high dollar custom Ti and I was on the lowly steel RB-1.) and we were both blown out the back by a bunch of guys with TdF conditioning. Pretty sure the bike had little to do with our miserable performance.
 
Lotta good info here, but I'll chime in with my $0.02 (and likely a bit more).

Proper fit is HUGE. And by this, I don't just mean frame size, it also has to do with the lengths of the different tubes of the frame's & the bike's geometry (frame angles). This is because 2 folks of the same height can have completely different builds. Like me, I'm 6' & have a LONG torso, so when looking at bikes, I want a longer top tube, & often enough, a long stem as well.
Also, as I'm a big guy, so I run with wider than stock/average handlebars. This is because I have a wide chest, & the wider bars let me open up my chest more when riding, so that I can get closer to fully expanding my lungs easily... and thus, ride faster. I was Shocked, & quite happily Amazed when I first made the switch. 3cm wider bars made a HUGE difference.
A long top tube does the same for me also (letting me stretch out, & fully expand my lungs), in addition to it's allowing me to get my torso more horizontal & aerodynamic when riding.
The same logic applies fit wise to mating a bike to the various key body parts of a rider's specific physical build.

On the frame materials thing, again, some of it goes to fitting the material to the rider. Me, I prefer aluminum & stiff frames. The why being, again, I'm big. Not a giant per say, nor fat, but big by cycling standards @ 6' & 210lbs. Which is about 1.5x the norm for serious & or pro riders. So my Cannondale helps to soak up the bumps for me, where as it'd jar a fly-weight rider. PLUS, it lets transmit the extra torque of my 1.5x cyclist body to the rear wheel, instead much of my pedaling energy & torque being absorbed by the frame flexing back & forth whenever I really stand on the pedals. This used to happen when I rode a top quality, steel, Bianchi. Ugh! The latter was a great bike, but comparatively was like a piece of well cooked spaghetti compared to my current bike, & some other, stiffer, rides.
Also, how big of an issue are pot holes & the like in your AO? I ask as some materials handle crappy roads better than others in the long run. Ditto on the type of wheels which you ride, & their spoke number + lacing pattern.

Regardless of what she/you guys choose, much like in shooting, there'll be a lot of extra accessories to buy, which you may not have figured on right off. Likely the first would be a spare set of wheels or three. Say a set or two to train on, & or beat on, depending on how you view it. And a racing set or two.
Some of them will likely be of different materials & designs. Especially the rims portion; road bike style, semi-aero, full aero. And of different weights & durability. The super svelte ones being for competition, but typically more delicate...
I mention wheels, as aside from the frame set, they're the biggest weight factor on the bike. Particularly, as they're rotating mass. So every extra gram in the wheels + tires is a BIG thing every time you go to accelerate. Much as is the case when choosing running or hiking footwear. It's a heck of a lot easier to run 6 minute miles in Nike's than in Danner's.

You CAN get a lot of Spectacular deals in used bikes, or when a store's clearing out last year's or 2012's models & the like. Particularly if you've done your homework on what you're after, & have a cheat sheet of what your top 3 choices are in terms of each component/part of the bike. Including the frame set (see the geometry bit above).
And like building a rifle, if you've got a touch of extra coin, you can for example, pick up a low mileage bike which has a frame that was all the rage 2 years ago, but has what are now "so, so" components. Then add & upgrade things as you go along/find out what you like. Which is where, once she gets into riding in a club & or competitively, she'll get lots of chances to try out other folks gear, including the way high end stuff, & get a sense of what she likes & what she doesn't.

HTH, & good luck both shopping, + riding & competing.

PS: Sometimes it helps with the bottom line $ wise, if you find a bike that fits the bill, in a shop. Then you also buy a helmet, shoes, shorts, lights, repair kit, etc... all at the same place, then you can quietly haggle with them for a package deal. Especially if they know you'll be a repeat customer, particularly for accessories & upgrades. As well as that you'll spread good things about them in the cycling/tri community via word of mouth.
 
buy used

My suggestion is buy used. check the forums classifieds. Go with a name brand. as far as components are concerned, the dura ace of 5 years ago is this years tiagra.
The biggest tip i can give is learn how to tune your own derailers and true your own wheels, its simple and makes for a good ride.
 
Research, research, research, then buy used. Many cyclists have to have the latest and greatest and dump fantastic bikes for very little. My $4000 Trek Madone cost me $600, the previous owner just had to have the newest model. I have outfitted my entire family with a road bike and a mountain bike for pennies on the dollar. Of the 11 bikes I currently own for me and my family, only one was purchased new.

Learn how to fit and tune your own bikes, it is not rocket science. There are just a few variables and they can be overcome. I suffered with numbness issues for years by having my bike fitment done by "experts". I even quit cycling because of it. Desperate to get back into shape, I resumed cycling, learned how to fit my own bike and solved my longstanding numbness issue and have enjoyed thousands of miles of happy riding.

Don't fall for the light weight lure. Unless you are racing for a win, who cares if you have a couple of pounds extra on your bike. Most cyclists will fret over 1.54332 lbs on their bike but ignore the extra 25 lbs on them. I purposely don't train with my Trek Madone, in favor of my Specialized Cylocross bike, loaded with a couple of bags of gear. I take everything I may need with me in case of a failure as I ride and live in the country and help is nowhere. The added bonus is the weight helps my conditioning.
 
Great advise. I also have a Specialized Cyclocross bike, with a bag under the seat and an extra water bottle. It is great for training, and for long rides... I find the longer frame negates the stiffness of the aluminum, so it is especially comfortable to ride. I use road slicks on it for normal riding, but I also change out the wheels and tires (using the wide cyclo tires) for bad / winter weather and for riding on the dirt. I do race triathlon as well, but I race to "complete", not to "compete". The TriCross bike is very easy to tune, and to adapt to varioius riding purposes. It's kinda like the multi-purpose rifle that we want to shoot long-range and hunt. It won't be a dedicated 1000-yd gun, but it comes close... and it isn't the "best" for hunting, but performs well in that role.

I recommend a good relationship with a local bike shop (my LBS is about 60 miles), but they will help you with any problems and an annual tune-up or inspection. You can also go there, try out several types of bikes since each will fit and feel different, select what you like, and then either find a used one (Craigslist is your friend), or buy there. Having a professional fitting is essential, especially for the shoe-pedal fit, and also the seat - saddle. Everything else can be adjusted little by little to get a comfortable fit.

Good luck with your purchase.
 
I'd suggest not getting a tri-bike, unless she is just seriously geeked out on triathlon. A road bike with clip on aero bars would be a much more comfortable and wiser choice.

If she is FAST, and chasing that next level, tri-bike all the way.

Eff all this "get fitted" nonsense. You can easily figure out what size she would need with a little searching, if not, I can probably tell you given her deminsions.

They cycling world is a highly inflated one. If you'r budget is sub $1500, you're right there in decent entry level bike land, or mid level used. I say buy USED and take someone elses hit. These things bleed value like you wouldn't believe. I have a 2010 Felt DA that retailed around $9k new, I doubt I could get $4k for it now....

Once you get a bike, then take the fitment advice. Go to a bike shop that has a GOOD REP for fitting, not just the one closest to you. A proper fit will run you around $125-200 depending. It is worth it if she plans to spend a lot of time on the bike.

Search Craig's list and Ebay. Specialized Allez and Roubaix are super comfy bike. Get carbon if you can, way more comfortable, and lighter. Look at Trek Madone and Felt's AR series as well. Ton more, those just off top of my head. My wife has an Allez and loves it. We made the mistake of going tri bike first with her (Felt B-16), and she hated it.

Frank's advice is sound too. Bike's direct can get you an off brand frame, built with high end components for stupid cheap. Resale will reflect that though, and I couldn't tell you much about the frame's quality.
 
After yesterdays ride I will recommend getting to like diesel fumes. Seems like the young punks with diesels like to gas you more now, seems like it has gotten worse over the years. None of them have enough between their legs to stop afterwards. I would enjoy giving them a face full of mace before a swift kick to the groin.
 
Don't forget every good bike needs a good accessory. May I suggest a velo dog or leg harness equipped with a solid glock 19?!? For the trek madone mentioned above for the price you pay you should get a complimentary gun of your choice and holster


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I have been hosting a pit stop for a bigger (300-400 riders) local bike race the last few years. I have found these racers to be the rudest people I have ever met in the world, and I have traveled extensively. Get your wife a new rifle and go compete in some tac matches. Avoid the bike people!