Anyone care to critique this?

[want2Baccurate]

Hi everyone, I would like to submit to you my plans for a precision rifle build based off of a Savage 110 DM receiver I have...

What I intend to do with the rifle: target shooting on paper/steel from 100-500 yds regularly. I would really like to stretch it out to 1000+ yds and have fun as well.
Not actually a hunting rifle, but would like it to be light enough to fill the role if I ever decide to.
Mainly I just want a fun gun in .30-06 Spr. to try and shoot little groups in far away targets.



Stock: Manners Composite MCS-T $415
-have them install pillars and 2 sling studs $45
-ask if more grip surface can be molded on
-OD Green MCS camo <span style="color: #3333FF">anyone have a picture of this?</span>
<span style="color: #FF0000">I chose this stock because I like the looks of m40 stocks, but wanted a higher cheek without hardware.</span>

Barrel:Shilen Savage Replacement Barrel, 26", Varmint contour, 1-10" twist, .30-06 Spr, stainless match grade $374
-ask if they will set the recoil shoulder for .300" thick lug.
-ask them to bead blast ($35) if its necessary for painting.
<span style="color: #FF0000">I chose this because it was the only match quality replacement barrel that was completely ready to go.</span>

trigger: Rifle Basix trigger, SAV-1, set for 3lbs $84
<span style="color: #FF0000">I may be able to stone the stock trigger, but I am afraid of wearing into softer metal. current pull is 7.5lbs.</span>

accessories: bed action, bed scope bases, Callahan recoil lug .300" CM $27

Scope base: Undecided. I dont know what would be best, maybe Farell 20moa cant, or NF 20moa. What do you guys think?

Scope rings: Again, undecided. Was considering Badger Ordnance rings. What do you guys think?

Scope: USO. I plan to buy used, so anything I can get that is good. I would like to at least have a SN-3 3.2-17x44 Ergo, GAP ret., 1/10 mil dials. Anything past that would be good.
<span style="color: #FF0000">how good is USO CS? If I have a problem with a used scope, will they cover me?</span>

Should be close to $1100 into the rifle minus optics.

Do you guys have any input? I tried to spend a lot of time reading on here before posting. Any suggestions?


This rifle started as a 111F package rifle. I think the action will be a good base for a precision gun. I would like to help contribute to the site by possibly doing some buildup articles where I post changes to the stock rifle, and how they change the way it shoots. What do you guys think of this idea?

 

[want2Baccurate]

Re: Anyone care to critique this?

After thinking about it some last night, here is my proposed plan for the 111F...
1. stiffen the factory stock to see if there is an accuracy difference.
2. stone the stock trigger to see how a lighter pull effects performance.
3. milsurp vs. factory ammo- see how new factory ammo groups versus milspec.
4. bed the action. should I also include bedding the chamber area? this will show the effects of a solid platform.
5. free floating stock vs. bedded stock. free float, then just a barrel band, then full barrel bed to see how each effects a sporter barrel.
6. new scope rings/ one piece base in order to see how flex from cheaper components in this area affects accuracy.
7. new scope. How does the rifle perform with better quality glass that tracks better, and does not change zero due to recoil.

I was thinking about moving the new scope higher up the list, as well as rings and base. Should I add anything to this list? what should be the order?

 

[Luke]

Re: Anyone care to critique this?

Few ideas to bounce around:

Why not make it a .300WM? Good supply of components and excellent long range capabilities. There's a reason benchrest shooters use 300WM's and not 30-06's...

Badger 20MOA base and Seekins Ultra-low rings make a great combo to mount a SN-3.

You can adjust the stock trigger, but overall you'd be better off installing a drop-in aftermarket trigger (Rifle Basix, Sharp Shooter Supply, etc.).

Don't mess around with the factory stock. It's a piece of crap, and even if you modify it, it will simply be a stiff piece of crap...

If this is only going to be used as a range gun a 26" barrel is just fine. If you want to use it as a hunting or tactical rifle something around 22" would be more practical, without a great loss of muzzle velocity.

Sling studs: 3 are usually preferred (2 for sling, 1 for bipod) If you're going to carry the rifle with a sling, I prefer to have the sling studs installed on the side of the stock, so that the rifle sits flush along my body and don't have a bolt handle or trigger guard jabbing me...

If you don't have a good quality scope that tracks correctly or holds it's zero, definitely move that up the list. You'll never know how accurate the rifle is if the scope doesn't work properly. You'll always be second guessing the scope and the rifle... eliminate the variables.

If you use a good quality one-piece scope base you shouldn't need to bed it. It wouldn't hurt to bed it..but probably isn't necessary.

 

[want2Baccurate]

Re: Anyone care to critique this?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Luke</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Few ideas to bounce around:

Why not make it a .300WM? Good supply of components and excellent long range capabilities. There's a reason benchrest shooters use 300WM's and not 30-06's...
<span style="color: #3333FF">I chose the .30-06 because it is my favorite rifle caliber of all time. I know there are other calibers that will perform better, but I just love the old .30-06</span>
Badger 20MOA base and Seekins Ultra-low rings make a great combo to mount a SN-3.

You can adjust the stock trigger, but overall you'd be better off installing a drop-in aftermarket trigger (Rifle Basix, Sharp Shooter Supply, etc.).
<span style="color: #3333FF">Is there a trigger replacement that is a complete trigger assembly, not just the trigger alone?</span>
Don't mess around with the factory stock. It's a piece of crap, and even if you modify it, it will simply be a stiff piece of crap...

If this is only going to be used as a range gun a 26" barrel is just fine. If you want to use it as a hunting or tactical rifle something around 22" would be more practical, without a great loss of muzzle velocity.
<span style="color: #3333FF">I read up on barrel lengths for a while trying to decide what would be best. I think I read that I will lose 50fps per inch cut off. Do you think a 22-24" barrel will keep 200+gr. projectiles supersonic at 1500yds.?</span>
Sling studs: 3 are usually preferred (2 for sling, 1 for bipod) If you're going to carry the rifle with a sling, I prefer to have the sling studs installed on the side of the stock, so that the rifle sits flush along my body and don't have a bolt handle or trigger guard jabbing me...
<span style="color: #3333FF">How do sling studs on the side effect your shooting from a sling? is it easier or harder?</span>
If you don't have a good quality scope that tracks correctly or holds it's zero, definitely move that up the list. You'll never know how accurate the rifle is if the scope doesn't work properly. You'll always be second guessing the scope and the rifle... eliminate the variables.
<span style="color: #3333FF">I think that is my current dilemma. It came with a simmons or something from the factory, but I feel like it shifts zero after a few rounds.</span>
If you use a good quality one-piece scope base you shouldn't need to bed it. It wouldn't hurt to bed it..but probably isn't necessary. </div></div>


Thank you for the information.

 

[Luke]

Re: Anyone care to critique this?

Concerning barrel length and velocities in a 30-06 Montana Marine is the man to ask:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MontanaMarine</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've been shooting and reloading both the 308 and 30-06 for several years now.

In equal length barrels, the 30-06 is good for about a 200 fps gain over the 308 with like bullets.

I started out with my 308 and 30-06 both with 26" barrels, now the 308 is 20.5", and the 30-06 is 22.4".

Some comparative velocities I get with current barrel lengths

110 VMax:
308: 3200
30-06: 3570

130 TTSX:
308: 3100
30-06: 3340

155 Scenar:
308: 2800
30-06: 3030

208 AMax:
308: 2540
30-06: 2700

As to accuracy, my Douglas-barreled 1/10 twist 30-06 is consistently .5 moa accurate, with everything I've tried from 110 to 240 gr bullets. Get a good barrel and have it installed by a good 'smith, you will have an accurate rifle.

</div></div>

The Sharp Shooter Supply trigger is a complete trigger. I've had good success with it.

 

[want2Baccurate]

Re: Anyone care to critique this?

thank you . I will try to do a search of the screen name and find some older posts.

 

[want2Baccurate]

Re: Anyone care to critique this?

After looking through several of MM's posts on the .30-06, it looks like I could get away with a shorter barrel and still reach out to 1000+yds. I just wonder how much energy the bullet will have at this range. I dont have/ know of a program to figure this information out. Anyone care to do it for me, or post a link so I can do it myself?
I wonder what the energy would be at 1k if the bullet was 208gr., 22" bbl, and MV of 2500fps.

 

[want2Baccurate]

Re: Anyone care to critique this?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: want2Baccurate</div><div class="ubbcode-body">After looking through several of MM's posts on the .30-06, it looks like I could get away with a shorter barrel and still reach out to 1000+yds. I just wonder how much energy the bullet will have at this range. I dont have/ know of a program to figure this information out. Anyone care to do it for me, or post a link so I can do it myself?
I wonder what the energy would be at 1k if the bullet was 208gr., 22" bbl, and MV of 2500fps. </div></div>

In case anyone was wondering, I searched through MM's old posts and found several references to 1200+ ft/lbs energy past 1k. He consistently states a 100fps loss in velocity by shortening his barrel 3.6 inches. This is with moly bullets though. How much velocity will a moly bullet add?

 

[buffybuster]

Re: Anyone care to critique this?

While there's nothing wrong with a 30-06 shooting 208AMAX's, if it were me, I'd take a hard look at .284Win. Though you would giving up the possibility of shooting surplus ammo (no loss in IMO, as only accurate ammo is worth shooting in a precision rifle), but less recoil and significantly better LR ballistics are the payback.

 

[want2Baccurate]

Re: Anyone care to critique this?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: buffybuster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">While there's nothing wrong with a 30-06 shooting 208AMAX's, if it were me, I'd take a hard look at .284Win. Though you would giving up the possibility of shooting surplus ammo (no loss in IMO, as only accurate ammo is worth shooting in a precision rifle), but less recoil and significantly better LR ballistics are the payback. </div></div>

I know it is kind of contrary to what some of the people want to do on this site, but I love the .30-06 caliber. It has been my favorite since I was a kid. The more I read on this site, the more I see new solutions for long range shooting in the form of very flat shooting cartridges. I may one day rebarrel to one of these if I become bored with the .30-06, but I dont see that happening soon

I do like the idea of a 6.5mm bench gun though...