Suppressors Anyone else have issues with carbon on their threads?

[newguy2k3v2]

Namely on my 338p-1, refitted with ultra guts and using ba mounts. I have to make sure to remove and install the can with the muzzle down or carbon will get knocked off the brake and blast chamber and stick in the threads.
It wouldn't be a big deal if it weren't for the can feeling like it's fully seated but it's not because of the carbon. I've had to put witness marks on the can and brakes to make sure it's actually seated against the taper.
This is on a SRS shooting 308, 6.5, 300wm and 338lm with varget, h4350, h1000 and retumbo. I know h1000 is dirty but I'm getting this shooting varget and h4350 exclusively as well.

 

[SDet]

When did you last clean it?

 

[newguy2k3v2]

When did you last clean it?

Other than using a toothbrush to clean the threads never. It probably has 4-500 rounds through it but I bet it was carboned up by the first 100. Never had the issue when it was direct thread or with any other can.

 

[Zak Smith]

Hi,

I've found that shaking out the can after I remove it every time and at least brushing or blowing off the brake will prevent what you're seeing.

 

[ken4570tc in WY]

I use high-temp anti-seize to keep the carbon out when shooting. I just got in the habit of keeping the muzzle down when removing my suppressor, brush clean then re-lube before putting the thread protector on. This leaves enough anti-seize on the clean threads for the next time I use the can.

 

[Threadcutter308]

I use high-temp anti-seize to keep the carbon out when shooting. I just got in the habit of keeping the muzzle down when removing my suppressor, brush clean then re-lube before putting the thread protector on. This leaves enough anti-seize on the clean threads for the next time I use the can.

+++

 

[newguy2k3v2]

I use high-temp anti-seize to keep the carbon out when shooting. I just got in the habit of keeping the muzzle down when removing my suppressor, brush clean then re-lube before putting the thread protector on. This leaves enough anti-seize on the clean threads for the next time I use the can.

I always used antisieze with it direct threaded But with the brake it just gave the carbon bits something to stick to. I've been putting a few drops of oil on the threads since.

 

[ken4570tc in WY]

Since Kroil is known to cut through carbon, also Marvel, either should would work just as well.