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Are the FN SPR enthusiasts extinct?

I purchased my SPR used off gunbroker a decade ago. It had a jewell trigger in it. I recently researched how to get it back to factory trigger. I did a google search on adjusting the factory trigger. There are several hits and a few are from the hide.

I moved on and will keep the jewell. So I did find out that timney, jewell and a couple others are drop in replacing the factory components. Most of them are adjustable and good break.

Not sure how light or heavy you like your trigger pull. Mine is set at 2#s
 
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I've built three rifles off the SPR actions 1, 308 with an 18 inch barrel McMillan stock jewel trigger, probably the funnest gun I own it just does everything well. I built a 260 Jewell trigger factory McMillan stock it's also tack driver, and a 300 WSM That are use for hunting , Kills everything just fine. I really like the SPR actions they're smooth and bulletproof
 
So I shot mine today and this happened. Sending it in too Greg for repairs. Greg is working up a spare firing pin not counting the one with the bolt bushing work. Looking for spare parts for this rifle sucks. Unless ya'll know something I don't know. Really just looking for firing pin spring, extractor, ejector, etc. In other words bolt parts. everything else has been changed out or being changed out. Any help appreciated.
 

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I haven’t actually tried to interchange firing pins, extractors, and ejectors between my pre 64 Win 70s or my FN SPR but they look like they are exactly the same. FWIW my FN SPR action craters primers that look like yours with known safe loads in both 308 and 6.5 CM but I’ve never had a pierced primer in the over 4,000 rounds that I’ve put through my action.

For parts I’ve found Midwest Gunworks has almost any FN SPR part you could want including bolts.
 
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Thanks, I looked up Midwest but they didn't have anything of relevance. I figured there is a correlation between pre 64, but don't want to assume and order what won't work. Can't even find a schematic, but I did email FN, so will see what they say. $100 to mitigate a pierced primer is money well spent to me.
 
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A3G here. I use it monthly for a long range precision match shooting from 560 yards out to 1,100. I am admittedly about the only one shooting .308 still. Everyone else is 6.5 or some wildcat.

I looked at aftermarket triggers quite a bit before I stumbled on M*Carbo’s website. A $12 spring and 15 minutes dropped my factory trigger from 4.5 pounds to 1.5 pounds with no take up or creep. It’s amazing. I wish that I had found it years before. His website even has a video on how to install it and how to adjust the takeup and creep.

I to want the CDI bottom metal, but have also avoided it because of the milling required. My factory bottom metal is also glass bedded by GAP, and I don’t know if swapping the bottom metal out after that will effect anything.
 
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I looked at aftermarket triggers quite a bit before I stumbled on M*Carbo’s website. A $12 spring and 15 minutes dropped my factory trigger from 4.5 pounds to 1.5 pounds with no take up or creep. It’s amazing. I wish that I had found it years before. His website even has a video on how to install it and how to adjust the takeup and creep.
Do you know if it'll work with regular model 70s?
Would you care to share a link?
 
Has anyone here replaced or adjusted their FN SPR trigg


Did the same a while back. Top notch work (obviously) and super fast turnaround.

I replaced mine with a Rifle Basix. It wasn’t hard once I got past the tree sap they put on the nuts. Great trigger.

I picked up my SPR from Tac Cord years ago. It appears they are no longer in business.

Come to think of it, I still have my A3 bedded stock (replaced mine with an A5) if anyone wants it.
 
Thanks, I looked up Midwest but they didn't have anything of relevance. I figured there is a correlation between pre 64, but don't want to assume and order what won't work. Can't even find a schematic, but I did email FN, so will see what they say. $100 to mitigate a pierced primer is money well spent to me.

Pre 64 M70 actions are actually long actions so the bolt parts won't interchange with the FN SPR.

Looking at your pictures I don't see much of a problem. It looks like you have flat primers which is probably adding exaggerating the primer flow. Primer cratering is fairly common, unless you're shaving primer cup into the primer channel or piercing primers I probably wouldn't worry too much about it.
 
Thanks, I looked up Midwest but they didn't have anything of relevance. I figured there is a correlation between pre 64, but don't want to assume and order what won't work. Can't even find a schematic, but I did email FN, so will see what they say. $100 to mitigate a pierced primer is money well spent to me.


All of the post 84 short action Winchester Model 70 parts will interchange with any of the spr/pbr actions and Midwest has decent supply of them


Firing pins, trigger sear, and safety parts need to be fitted and timed to work correctly on Model 70s
 
I’m a spr/70 guy as well. I have some with the internal box mag, the factory dbm, the fn to, and the cdi conversion. Calibers range from 22-250ai to 358win and a few in between. My main comp gun had been an spr in 260 or more recently, 260ai for over a dozen years. One reason I went with the cdi after the tbm on that one is because the shoulder width of the 260ai made the rounds jam in the tbm mags if I put more than 6 in a 10 rounder. The 5s had no problems.

My oldest son runs a 6.5-47 with internal box mag. My youngest runs a 22-250ai in an xlr evolution. I opened up the bottom of the action so it runs ai mags too.

The simplicity of the triggers is a huge plus. I do have a couple with jewell triggers though and those run amazing as well.
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My 260ai
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the green is the 22-250ai and the blue is the 6.5-47.
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308 on top, 358 next and the future 243? Will be the bottom one.
 
Pre 64 M70 actions are actually long actions so the bolt parts won't interchange with the FN SPR.

Looking at your pictures I don't see much of a problem. It looks like you have flat primers which is probably adding exaggerating the primer flow. Primer cratering is fairly common, unless you're shaving primer cup into the primer channel or piercing primers I probably wouldn't worry too much about it.


I don't have this issue with any rifle I have. Custom, factory, or other. The load was not hot by any measure. If the primers look flattened to you, its the picture only. In hand they are not. If this issue is "fairly common" in your experience. I would have a look at your rifles or reloading methods. My thoughts, nothing more.
 
All of the post 84 short action Winchester Model 70 parts will interchange with any of the spr/pbr actions and Midwest has decent supply of them


Firing pins, trigger sear, and safety parts need to be fitted and timed to work correctly on Model 70s


No bolt parts available for the controlled round feed FN action on their web site. One bolt is available.
 
I don't have this issue with any rifle I have. Custom, factory, or other. The load was not hot by any measure. If the primers look flattened to you, its the picture only. In hand they are not. If this issue is "fairly common" in your experience. I would have a look at your rifles or reloading methods. My thoughts, nothing more.

I meant that cratered primers are fairly common in factory actions. My SPR does not crater primers but I wouldn't worry about it if it did.
 
I meant that cratered primers are fairly common in factory actions. My SPR does not crater primers but I wouldn't worry about it if it did.
Buzz’s blue on was blanking primers on a pretty mild load. Small primers though. Bushes the bolt and problem solved
 
I know this is an older thread but I also have a first gen FG serial. Great rifle. I have a couple of dbm for sale 308 if anyone is interested.
 
I literally bought a new in the box action yesterday from a friend. It'll be the mule for a new DBM. From there, I'll put a gun together on it for whatever.

New DBM will happen soon. :)
Well that's interesting, especially considering that my SPR is sitting in your shop right now while I try to figure out what to do about a stock.
 
i keep thinking i need to sell my SPR but a dozen years ago i waited a long time for the McMillan stock and its got my name engraved in the barrel channel, and now my long-time gunsmith friend who did the work for me is retired and the man who did the bottom metal and inletting at CDI has passed away. just too hard to turn loose of it.
 
FN SPRA2/A4 ser. FN19XXX here. Made in late 2008/ early 2009 left the factory the same year according to FN CS. it's a good shooting rifle for sure. I won't sell it.
 
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@LongRifles Inc. Chad, I'm looking forward to seeing your DBM! Can you make the inlet compatible with the CDI DBM? That way those of us with the CDI bottom metal can replace it with yours without having to fill or mill our stocks.

I still love shooting my FN SPR action, it's as smooth and reliable as any custom action that I've ever seen. It's not my only 6.5 CM rifle so my last barrel lasted 4 years. So what if I have to send my rifle off to get rebarreled every 4 years.
 
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How about something that doesn't require action modification. Or is that just a given?
 
I owned a GAP built SPR for years. I bought it off the old Hide for a great price with only 150 rounds on the barrel. I sold it a couple months ago and regretted it pretty much instantly. They're great guns.
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bought a brand new in box FN spr action only and used it to build my latest hunting rig. FN action, manners, 18” krieger 6.5 creedmoor, cdi bottom metal “rip Jeff”, tbac ultra 7, Leupold vx5 hd and just tuned the FN trigger myself. Love the action the rifle is ridiculously accurate and solid as a rock. Loading Barnes lrx127
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Not dead here!

I love my SPR.

I built it a couple years ago. SPR receiver from GunBroker, Benchmark Sendero 8 twist @ 23" , a Manners T4 with a magnetic adjustable ckeekrest of my own design, bolt knob made from the benchmark blank stump and a FN TBM mag kit.
(I did a write-up on my magnetic adjustable cheek-rest in the Snipershide DIY subforum).

I've bushed the firing pin to .062" to cure the primer cratering.

The stock trigger on these can be made into a fantastic trigger with a little milling, polishing and a spring replacement.

It's a great shooter. On a good windless, low mirage overcast day, it shoots impressive 100 yard groups. It's fun for banging steel out to 1000ish yards.











5 rounds @ 100 yards. .1 mil grid on the target.
 
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Definitely not dead on my end. I have an A5M XP 20" that's very nice, overall. I need to tune the trigger a bit (I like my triggers on the heavier (2.5lb or so) side, and like a 2-stage even better, but haven't tracked down a reasonably priced, current-production 2-stage for the SPR yet. As it sits, the trigger is heavy (my uncalibrated finger says close to 3.5 or 4lbs) with about 1/16" of creepy takeup. It works, but would benefit greatly from some tweaking.
 
I owned a GAP built SPR for years. I bought it off the old Hide for a great price with only 150 rounds on the barrel. I sold it a couple months ago and regretted it pretty much instantly. They're great guns.View attachment 7319612

If it helps, I bought the rifle because I regretted selling my first FN SPR, my first real long-range rifle. I guess the cycle continues?
 
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No not dead at all, my FN SPR started life as a match prize rifle built by AJ Brown, with a Manners T3 stock and Bartlein 308 barrel . I bought it from Nomad here on the Hide in 2010 and it's since been rebarreled twice in 6.5 Creedmoor, had Joe Ducos install a KMW Loggerhead adjustable cheek piece, had an Area 419 rail added, and gotten new paint from LRI. It's now wearing a Kahles K624i w/SKMR3 in Seekins rings, a PVA Jetblast brake, and a Proof stainless 1-8 barrel. It's been one the two rifles I shoot in our monthly local precision rifle match and it's won a few of those. This rifle is truly a product of Snipers Hide because I first heard about Joe Ducos and LRI right here. I also bought the Atlas bipod in the Atlas CAL pre-order announced here on the Hide by Kasey, the RRS BTC-Pro because RRS announce it here, the Area 419 rail because of learning about it here, I bought the Kahles K624i from Doug at CameralandNY, and I bought the PVA Jetblast after seeing a post on it from bohem.
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@m1match I was just thinking the other day that I would probably enjoy my FN more if I had more of a hunting stock on it....That T3 looks great...I was thinking of getting a TA for the narrower forend.

My FN isn't dead!!! (but it sure is cheap and easy to change barrels on my Bighorn TL3 and ARC Mausingfield). Around Christmas time I loaded up all my match ammo for it for the season (I only use it for a couple matches), and since the Dillon was set up I pumped out a couple years worth of practice ammo.
 
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@Kimber.204 I like the wider fore end of the T3 but that's just me. The other rifle that I shoot matches with is a 6.5 CM ARC Nucleus in a Manners T2A, also with a wide fore end. The main limitation that I found with the T3 is it doesn't come from Manners with an adjustable cheekpiece. I shot mine using a Triad Tactical stock pad for about 7 years until I got tire of it and sent the stock to Joe Ducos to install KMW Loggerhead adjustable cheekpiece hardware.
 
The factory FN TBM kit doesn't require a receiver modification. The mags are reasonably priced, and feed smoother than AICS mags.

I have a tbm setup on my spr a1 and for some reason the damn thing has issues feeding the last two round. The nose of the bullet ends up jamming into the top of the receiver and rim of the round kicks down. I tried stretching my spring and it didn’t help. If I push up in the mag with my hand it seems to feed fine. So question is, do I need to bend my feed lips on mag or have the stock inletted deeper.
Still love my spr, damn good shooting rifle.
 
Thanks to whoever bumped this thread back up. I can finally say I now have some thing worthy of posting in this thread lol.

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First group I ever shot with it is below. Wind was extremely crazy with strong gusts that day. That group was shot using FGMM 168. I also shot a 5 round group with PRIME 175 that was 3/4 MOA but way more vertical on the prime than the FGMM.

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According to a previous owner of the rifle, the specs are as you see below:

FN SPR
.308WIN
PTG reamer
Shilen Select Match 10 twist @22.5"
McMillan A2 stock

I added the following:

Lil bastard
Sig Tango6 second Gen 4-24x50
EOTECH PRS rings (these were some spares I had laying around.

I'll be moving my ZP5 in seekins rings over to this rifle.
 
Definitely not dead on my end. I have an A5M XP 20" that's very nice, overall. I need to tune the trigger a bit (I like my triggers on the heavier (2.5lb or so) side, and like a 2-stage even better, but haven't tracked down a reasonably priced, current-production 2-stage for the SPR yet. As it sits, the trigger is heavy (my uncalibrated finger says close to 3.5 or 4lbs) with about 1/16" of creepy takeup. It works, but would benefit greatly from some tweaking.

If I have some time I might make a vid tomorrow on how to tune the original trigger. This is for just in case you don't buy the Mcarbo spring.

The rifle I bought from you had a decent trigger pull (with some VERY MINIMAL creep) at first but after many dry fires, the creep became very very noticeable. I took the trigger off and found the culprit right away. The spring it had was to small on its inside diameter so the screw that goes in the middle of the spring was making contact. I could feel the threads little by little as I pulled the trigger.

I looked through my win70 parts and found a spare trigger spring. I put it on and it became a million times better.
 
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I own three SPRs. The first one (pictured below) was an old department rifle that came equipped with a Leupy Mk 4 M3 10x. While obviously used, it had not been abused. The group in the photo was my first hand load for it, and measures .419" if I remember correctly. It was the fastest load development I've had. The bullet used is a 165gr NBT for hunting. That load tracks dead nuts to 500 yards with the 168gr turret on the Leupold.

I've also found two NIB examples; an A1 and A2. I'm actually quasi-farting around with load development for those right now, but they are a bit more finicky. The A1 shoots the same NBT load at 1 MOA.

The DBM isn't great, and usually leaves a scrape on the brass. The trigger isn't great, but can be made serviceable with just a couple minutes' time. However, these rifles are pretty bombproof and can be found for a great price usually.
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The heart break continues. I knew I should have snagged 2 of the mcmillian from midwest when they were going for 300 or something insane like that. missed that opportunity.
My only complaint about the mod70 sa is that there dont seem to be any economical stocks for it. I was hoping that the.mcmillian me line would have something but no luck.
I may get two hogues from midwest just to have something to build on.
I wish someone made a mini chassis style stock for it which was in the 500 dollar mark
 
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I literally bought a new in the box action yesterday from a friend. It'll be the mule for a new DBM. From there, I'll put a gun together on it for whatever.

New DBM will happen soon. :)
3 FN SPR actions to be built, will be watching the LRI site for updates on the FN SPR / Win 70 DBM.
 
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I have a tbm setup on my spr a1 and for some reason the damn thing has issues feeding the last two round. The nose of the bullet ends up jamming into the top of the receiver and rim of the round kicks down. I tried stretching my spring and it didn’t help. If I push up in the mag with my hand it seems to feed fine. So question is, do I need to bend my feed lips on mag or have the stock inletted deeper.
Still love my spr, damn good shooting rifle.

I'd lean toward the inlet needing to be deeper.

When I inletted mine for the TBM, I was unable to find any published specs for the inlets/pillars relative height and angle.

I ended up experimenting with the bottom metal/receiver and making, then adjusting the height and angle of the pillars before I generated toolpaths to cut the inlet. Chances are, the dimensions I used vary from what others use.

I saved a drawing of the inlet dimensions somewhere. I'll look around for it.


Ok,
Here is what I did, and mine feeds better than any bolt action I've used, ever. These are just quick n dirty drawings. You'll have to forgive that I didn't put much effort into following the GD&T handbook ;). I pretty much saved this info for my own use only:





Who did your inlet?
 
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The heart break continues. I knew I should have snagged 2 of the mcmillian from midwest when they were going for 300 or something insane like that. missed that opportunity.
My only complaint about the mod70 sa is that there dont seem to be any economical stocks for it. I was hoping that the.mcmillian me line would have something but no luck.
I may get two hogues from midwest just to have something to build on.
I wish someone made a mini chassis style stock for it which was in the 500 dollar mark

It doesn't get any more economical than this...


or if you already have the bottom metal

 
I'd lean toward the inlet needing to be deeper.

When I inletted mine for the TBM, I was unable to find any published specs for the inlets/pillars relative height and angle.

I ended up experimenting with the bottom metal/receiver and making, then adjusting the height and angle of the pillars before I generated toolpaths to cut the inlet. Chances are, the dimensions I used vary from what others use.

I saved a drawing of the inlet dimensions somewhere. I'll look around for it.

Here is what I did, and mine feeds better than any bolt action I've used, ever. These are just quick n dirty drawings. You'll have to forgive that I didn't put much effort into following the GD&T handbook ;). I pretty much saved this info for my own use only:





Who did your inlet?
Ah this is probably where my problem is. I didn’t have the rifle inletted at all. I just swapped the factory bottom metal over to the tbm bottom metal.
I did have to open up the intel a little to get the bottom metal to fit in the stock but I didn’t mess with pillar height or angle. I dint have the resources to do that.