Have you guys seen any issues with mounting these rails using the front action screw ?
Wondering about possible accuracy issues.
Wondering about possible accuracy issues.
- Thread starter Fair chase
- Start date
It really depends on the shape of the bottom of the stock and how it matches up to the bottom metal. Some stocks are perfectly flat and flush with the bottom metal and fit up great. I have done a few Greyboe Renegades and had to put the stock in the mill and fly cut the bottom of the stock for the full length making it perfectly flat and flush fitting with the bottom metal. This has worked out very nice and has had no effect on accuracy.
Going on a bergara HMR
I don't use the front action screw for 2 reasons. First, my bi-pod can't go back that far without hitting the magazine, so it's wasting a couple inches of rail. Shifting it forward gives me rail space at the front without loosing rail at the back. Second, if I need to take my action out I don't have to take the rail off first.
There is no need to remove the rail if you remove the action, the rail stays in place aside from one fastener.
Put one on a HMR PRO and it works well. Used the front action screw but needed a new screw. Factory one is too short and the one provided was too long. Trimmed the screw down and it works well. It works very well on the tripod for getting close to the magazine for balance.
I have not seen any change in accuracy by adding the rail and using the front action screw.
Erin
I have not seen any change in accuracy by adding the rail and using the front action screw.
Erin
Thank
Another vote for not using the front action screw. I'm no engineer but I like the idea of my front screw pinching my bottom metal into the bedded pillar into the action and that's it. Adding another layer of aluminum just seems like I am adding just a bit more flex into what I think is the most important action screw on the rifle. I also like to be able to remove my bottom metal without removing the whole arca rail. I guess I might be able to remove the screw and then pull the bottom metal out from the back and tilt it... but why mess with it. Mount your arca rail far enough in front of you action lug to not mess with the bedded area and use those fancy included locking nuts with the teeth that bite into your stock material to keep them from spinning. Pre drill your holes to the size that fits the bolts you're using, then from the barrel side of the stock use the spade bit that is slightly larger than you nut to counter sink the nut just far enough to not interfere with your barrel channel and deep enough that your bolts will screw all the way in.
I've shot many thousands of rounds with a rail attached via front action screw, and have never seen a shred of difference in accuracy. Of course a person can convince themselves that it may have an impact, but we have never observed it, nor even had someone report it.
“Im no engineer”.
But Jon Addis is, and a badass one at that.
if he says its good to go, I would trust him....
But Jon Addis is, and a badass one at that.
if he says its good to go, I would trust him....
When the rail is mounted to the action screw you can't take your bottom metal off, you lose a little bit of the functional length of the rail because I can't slide my bipod all the way back without it interfering, if I was trying to use my tripod and mounted it all the way back it would hit when I panned, you have to modify the length of your front action screw, not all stocks have a flat section to mount the rail flush using the action screw, and even 419 recommends washers or a spacer to fill the gap if you have one. Again I'm no engineer, but you don't have to be to figure that out. I'm not saying mounting to the action screw doesn't work... I'm just saying I prefer to mount it moved forward a bit.
