Looking at dipping my toe into the NRL22 world. Have a Bergara B14R carbon and can use some advice setting it up. Planning on keeping it in the factory stock for now. Have a Trigger Tech Diamond trigger coming in. Looking at a Seekins 20 MOA base. I think I'm going to put a Razor Gen III 6-36 on it. I know it's too much scope, but I haven't mounted that on anything yet so it's the easiest for now. Any advice on ring height? I've had good luck with Seekins on my other rifles and would prefer to stay with that brand. Any other suggestions on how to get going? I've already scheduled a lesson with someone who shoots in the series.
- Thread starter finnimus
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I'm using Seekins High Rings with an Outer Limits 20 MOA base for this S&B 12-50x56 PMII and have plenty of clearance. Good luck with the TT Diamond, I had one and it didn't work good in my B-14R, I ended up going with a Bix TacSport Pro as shown.
B14R
AIAX
Rings to fit the chassis from the .308 that was in it "TPS highs". The taller the better with this chassis set up. Cut down PRI 20 MOA N.V. rail for a scope base.
This set up worked great for my daughter to shoot locally. Being able to adjust everything on the fly to fit her and then me was a perfect.
I have a set of NF 1.25" rings that would probably be perfect for your factory HMR stock if your interested.
I also have a SWFA that I should list as well.
AIAX
Rings to fit the chassis from the .308 that was in it "TPS highs". The taller the better with this chassis set up. Cut down PRI 20 MOA N.V. rail for a scope base.
This set up worked great for my daughter to shoot locally. Being able to adjust everything on the fly to fit her and then me was a perfect.
I have a set of NF 1.25" rings that would probably be perfect for your factory HMR stock if your interested.
I also have a SWFA that I should list as well.
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I have 2 B14R in factory stock, with TT Diamond. set up with 20 moa base, Burris XTR Signature rings with 30 moa in the inserts. Vortex Strike Eagle 5 X 25 with this set up I can dial from 25 yds to 500yds. There is no limit, on scopes with a rimfire, just the money you can spend. you can use 1" to 1.24" XTR.
What was wrong with the TT Diamond?
What age is appropriate for the matches? Not necessarily for competition, but environment (language).
How can I figure out how far my adjustment can take me? 36.1 MRADs of total elevation, 120 MOA on the scope.
It had trouble cocking. I had to increase pull weight to approximately 5 lbs.
The strike eagle has 31 mils. If you use moa in the rings inserts, you should be good to 500yds. I have 2 mils to go down and 29 to go up.
TT Diamond works fine in mine. It seems to be a case by case basis (probably tolerance stacking).
Any age should be fine. I would hope your squad would behave and any match director worth their clipboard would enforce age-appropriate language.
I had my daughter at the range when she was very young and there was definitely some language that I didn't agree with. If your missing a target don't be that guy that lets out a string of words you wouldn't normally say. At the last event she said to an older gentleman, there are women and children here and he was very quick to adjust his language. Most guys are just happy to be out for the day and don't want to make anyone uncomfortable.
To the second question Strelok Pro is $10 and worth every penny. You can run theoretical numbers or try D.O.PE prior to touching off a round.
I have shot the carbon in multiple seasons. NRL22 and NRL22X matches mostly.
You might wanna find a arca rail for your gun to give your factory stock a wider footprint for barricade work. Or consider swapping out the stock.
The bullshit you hear about balance or lack of balance is a total crock of shit. The big scope you have will make it top heavy. But if you swap out to a heavier stock....it will balance. Or you can add weight as everyone else does to make it balance.
This rifle balances fine. And its not as retarded heavy for the positional portions or stages with movement. And it shoots every bit as good as any steel barrel out there.
I’m running that same scope on my b14r in Seekins 1.26” Extra Height rings on an EGW 20MOA rail. Could probably go a little lower on the rings. I’m also running a TriggerTech Diamond 2 stage with no issues at all.
Thanks for this info. As I was doing my calcs I forgot to factor in the barrel slopes down.
First statement cracked me up. I bought Strelok to use with one of my center fire long range guns. Thanks for the reminder to use it. The vortex has 36mils of adjustment. The 20 MOA rail buys me another 5 or 6 mils. (36/2)+5= 23 mils of turret adjustment. 400 yards is 26.2 mils, 500 is 37.4 mils. What are you guys seeing as practical max in competition? I'm using lapua center X as an example.
What are some of the more popular stocks for the B14r? Anything to stay away from?
What made you go high and why two stage?
I was concerned about clearance with the 56mm objective and barrel and also wasn’t sure if the night vision bridge on the chassis would be an issue if I went too low. Probably unfounded as there’s a good size gap there. The height under the scope tube is just enough to get my data card holder onto the pic rail so not sure lower rings would allow me to do that.
I went with the two stage out of habit…tens of thousands of rounds of 3pos smallbore on Anshutz model 54 actions with two stage triggers back in the day. This is a different sport but old habits die hard
I have not heard of any to stay away from. Just be prepared to adjust magazine fitment, primarily bolt catch and feeding angle. There are chassis/bottom metal that can adjust, aftermarket magazines that adjust, and ways to adjust the factory magazines. There's other threads that cover this topic. It can be an issue with rimfire-sized chambers and big 'ol AICS-sized magazines. Even VGW and RimX can fall prey to this malady.
I have had my B14r in Remington factory HS Precision, Grayboe, and XLR Envy Pro with no issue other than mag angle.
Yeah the little lady is not shy to say what's on her mind. Product of a father who has always brought her along to ranges and gun shops. She needs to learn how to dial that in, but at least she's not shy about speaking her mind
. As for the AX, It wouldn't be my first choice as they are a might expensive for a .22.
When I dropped it in and ran they mag it functioned flawlessly. No jams or fitment issues as others have said are prevalent with chassis swaps. A KRG Bravo might be a good option or a XLR.
The built in magwells are a blessing and much easier to tune. If she's going to play I might as well give her a leg up. It's only $$$
200 yards is easy with Lapua or any other decent ammo. Past that it's all on you and mother nature. 400 yards is doable, but costly as you'll never hit every time regardless of your set up. When there is wind involved.22 gets wild which is why I love shooting it more than C.F. on most range trips.
A drop reticle pays off for shooting switchy wind.
A drop reticle pays off for shooting switchy wind.
The great part about Bergara mags is the loading. You just push the rounds in and shoot. V22's are finicky about round placement and loading procedures. I had a friend recently sell his V22 to pick up a Bergara. There was very little that the B14 left on the table in head to head comparison.
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/krg-bravo-with-arca-pic-nv-rail.7130867/
This one checks all of the boxes for a great little chassis and the price is right.
This one checks all of the boxes for a great little chassis and the price is right.
I happen to think the HMR stock is excellent for a factory precision stock. You have almost everything you need to get started, just need to bolt on an ARCA rail and go. If you’re gonna shoot off tripods (NRL22 doesn’t, can’t recall what the rules are in NRL22X) you might one that extends past the forend, a 14” would serve well. If you want to keep it all under the forend, a 10” is a perfect fit. Buddy just grabbed an Area 419 rail with barricade stop, said it fit great with no stock modifications required, just pull the two sling studs and use two 10-32 screws (provided with the rail) to lock it on. Fair warning though, the LOP is about right for me with all the spacers out, and I’m of average adult male height; your little lady might be best served with a shorter LOP than the stock can offer, but options are limited in the youth-length LOP market, honestly don’t recall what’s out there. Otherwise the HMR stock is great. You don’t need anything else unless you want to start bolting on a lot of accessories.
I’ve gone to 2-stage after shooting a single stage awhile; I like that it mentally activates the trigger control and breathing processes once I intentionally take up the first stage. I’ve found myself using the first stage to reset on a bad position; come off the first stage, reset the position, then take up the first stage again to begin the shot process again. Plenty of folks prefer a single stage though, this is just why I’ve landed on them.
Another big advantage if you use the factory stock is, you’ll have absolutely no mag fitting issues. But there are lots of shooter’s using the KRG. I don’t know how much work is involved fitting mags perfectly to the KRG.
I was perusing the Bergara site and they have a competition model that uses an MPA BA chassis. I might go that route because it looks adjustable and has some connection to the factory for support.
Thanks. Will start looking into this.
Any suggestions on ammo?
Break it in with whatever decent stuff is easily available to you.
After that if wanting consistency for 5000 rounds at a time it's send it off to Lapua's test center and buy a case of whatever shoots well in it.
Quality subsonic is the only stuff worth your time for accuracy. “Budget” options are Norma and (used to be) CCI Standard Velocity. Mid-pack options are the mid-class Eley and SK stuff; I forget the Eley ones but SK Std+ (yellow box) is the Lapua entry level and SK Rifle Match (red box) is the next step up. Have heard mixed reviews about their other offerings; I’d steer clear unless you really just love tinkering. The high-end stuff takes you into the top-shelf Eley and Lapua options, and if you want to spend 30-40 cents per round for the best accuracy (mostly ES/SD), then agreed that the Lapua testing center is your answer.
ETA: There are other decent budget options, I just forget what they are. I only buy SK at this point, mostly because I hate shopping and the decision churn of chasing ammo lots, and because most of my misses are still me, not the ammo. No need to spend 40 cents for those misses instead of about half that lol
The trigger tech loads the sear with the striker spring weight. This means it's harder to get it to actually adjust to desired weight if you're going light. Most guys that use a TT are shooting a heavier pull weight.
The b&a isolates the sear from the striker. The striker spring loads it, but the trigger only sees the weight from the springs keeping the balls from moving.
It's hard to explain, but there's good videos out there on the operation.
I run a b&a at 12oz. It's sweet but it is different. The main thing everyone notices the first time is the very crisp break but no back wall. After the trigger breaks it has some travel so you're theoretically not influencing the rifle hitting a hard stop.
It's nothing I didn't get used to in about 10 trigger pulls, and I've since bought 3 more.
I gave my TT's to my Dad as he really likes them, but he also doesn't have a bergara.
Age depends on the individuals at your matches/ranges. I have had the conversation with my kids on adult words and don't worry about it. I've been known to let some choice strings fly in the garage at times, so I'm not going to judge others.
Recognizing it all depends on what my specific rifle likes to shoot, is this the order within the manufacturers?
SK: Long Range Match (tan) > SK Rifle Match (red) > SK Standard Plus (yellow)
Lapua: Center X > X-Act > Midas+
Eley: Tenex > Match
Not exactly. The SK LRM has a higher MV than the other two you listed; that’s how SK sorts their ammo basically, by MV into product lines, then by consistency into individual products. Red and yellow boxes are in the same family, tan box is a different family.
For SK: RM > Std+
For Lapua: X-Act > Midas+ > Center-X
For Eley: Tenex > Match
