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B14R setup

Not to be an enabler, but I would also get the Area 419 barricade stop that clamps to the Arca rail.
The rail I was looking at I think has one already built into the end (by the magazine to keep from front loading the mag). But I also have an MDT stop that is a spare from my ACC.

 
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I'll be going to my first match Sunday with a new B14R. I feel good about the rifle, scope, mount, and rings. I'm not quite shooting 0.5" groups at 50, but I have several 10 shot groups with CCI-SV and Wolf Match in the 0.75" range. Good enough for a first time out, and the rig is sighted at 50 and tested to 100. Roughly 300 rounds through with nothing to make me doubt the rig is solid and capable.

As stated before, I have the bipod that came with my Ruger Charger attached. Going with this for now, as I don't know yet what else is useful and reasonable.

This seems like the next step. Is there a reason to get the item with the barricade rail "kit"instead of just the rail and rear stop? I do not have a bipod that will work with either yet, so that is not a consideration. Does a forward barricade stop help? If I get a bipod with an ARCA mount, should I add the barricade stop to it? Does any extra ARCA mount allow you to do anything useful? Inquiring minds want to know.

ARCALOCK 14″ Universal Dovetail Rail - https://www.area419.com/product/arcalock-univ14/

(kit) ARCALOCK 14″ Universal Barricade - https://www.area419.com/product/arcalock/


My bipod is not quite krapp, but with no extendable legs, it's probably gonna need to be replaced. Atlas seems the best to go with, as Harris needs an adapter that brings it into the same cost range as Atlas.

Does the basic Atlas Bipod work well enough in the real world?

BT10-ARCA V8 Atlas Bipod - https://www.area419.com/product/atlas-bipods/

Is there another model iteration that has a real world benefit that would justify the additional cost?

Looking for guidance from people who have used these and can offer advice.
 
I'll be going to my first match Sunday with a new B14R. I feel good about the rifle, scope, mount, and rings. I'm not quite shooting 0.5" groups at 50, but I have several 10 shot groups with CCI-SV and Wolf Match in the 0.75" range. Good enough for a first time out, and the rig is sighted at 50 and tested to 100. Roughly 300 rounds through with nothing to make me doubt the rig is solid and capable.

As stated before, I have the bipod that came with my Ruger Charger attached. Going with this for now, as I don't know yet what else is useful and reasonable.

This seems like the next step. Is there a reason to get the item with the barricade rail "kit"instead of just the rail and rear stop? I do not have a bipod that will work with either yet, so that is not a consideration. Does a forward barricade stop help? If I get a bipod with an ARCA mount, should I add the barricade stop to it? Does any extra ARCA mount allow you to do anything useful? Inquiring minds want to know.

ARCALOCK 14″ Universal Dovetail Rail - https://www.area419.com/product/arcalock-univ14/

(kit) ARCALOCK 14″ Universal Barricade - https://www.area419.com/product/arcalock/


My bipod is not quite krapp, but with no extendable legs, it's probably gonna need to be replaced. Atlas seems the best to go with, as Harris needs an adapter that brings it into the same cost range as Atlas.

Does the basic Atlas Bipod work well enough in the real world?

BT10-ARCA V8 Atlas Bipod - https://www.area419.com/product/atlas-bipods/

Is there another model iteration that has a real world benefit that would justify the additional cost?

Looking for guidance from people who have used these and can offer advice
On one of rifle I initially bought the universal arca rail but it didn’t help with balancing out the rifle. I ended up exchanging the universal rail for the weighted one from Area 419 and needed four of the weights to counter act the butt weight so it balanced when sitting on a bag. It really depends on what barrel you have on the rifle, but most .22 rifles with the shorter barrels need extra weight forward to achieve the right balance. It makes a big difference with a rifle that balances vs one that doesn’t. A419 also sells a barricade stop that you can clamp to the rail and protect the mag.

I have yet to find a reason to add a barricade stop to my bipod. I usually jam the rifle into a bag and shove it up against the rear barricade stop for stability.

I also started with a Harris but eventually upgraded to an Atlas with arca clamp. I prefer the CAL model as it is a little wider at the base than the BT-10. The arca clamp gives you the ability to slide the bipod closer to the magwell on the clock which can be helpful on certain stages. Or it is way easier to take the bipod off quickly on the clock than the swivel stud clamp.

The Atlas may seem like a chunk of change, but it is way more affordable than the Cyke-pod, but you are giving up a little versatility so I guess you get what you pay for. But no reason why the Atlas won’t serve you well at most matches.
 
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Does the basic Atlas Bipod work well enough in the real world?

BT10-ARCA V8 Atlas Bipod - https://www.area419.com/product/atlas-bipods/

Is there another model iteration that has a real world benefit that would justify the additional cost?

Looking for guidance from people who have used these and can offer advice.
Can't wait to hear about your match, I think your setup won't hold you back.

For the bipod, the other one to look at is the MDT Grnd-pod. I don't have mine yet and not sure the differences between the MDT and the Atlas but it's worth a look. maybe someone else can chime in on differences.. it's about $200 with the ARCA mount so just a bit cheaper.

 
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Can't wait to hear about your match, I think your setup won't hold you back.

For the bipod, the other one to look at is the MDT Grnd-pod. I don't have mine yet and not sure the differences between the MDT and the Atlas but it's worth a look. maybe someone else can chime in on differences.. it's about $200 with the ARCA mount so just a bit cheaper.

That MDT looks very nice, thank you for the suggestion.
 
Well, first match went fine. Our MD hasn't posted scores yet, but I shot somewhere in the middle of the pack. My goal was to hit at least half of everything I shot at. I probably scored hits on maybe 60-65% of the possible shots. I hit the 6" at 175 yards 3 of 8, late in the match, after the wind had kicked up. I'll take it.

As everyone says, the B14R is by default heavy to the butt end. So I have the Area 419 weighted rail on order. Does anyone here have that same rail mounted under an OEM stock? How did you mount it? With factory stud holes, or drilled new ones, or both? If anyone could post a pic from the underside with some notes on what you did, I would appreciate it. I searched but didn't find an underside pic posted anywhere.

I have a drill press and associated guides/clamps, so if I need to drill to do this right, I am able. But helpful suggestions or hints would be much appreciated.
 
Well, first match went fine. Our MD hasn't posted scores yet, but I shot somewhere in the middle of the pack. My goal was to hit at least half of everything I shot at. I probably scored hits on maybe 60-65% of the possible shots. I hit the 6" at 175 yards 3 of 8, late in the match, after the wind had kicked up. I'll take it.

As everyone says, the B14R is by default heavy to the butt end. So I have the Area 419 weighted rail on order. Does anyone here have that same rail mounted under an OEM stock? How did you mount it? With factory stud holes, or drilled new ones, or both? If anyone could post a pic from the underside with some notes on what you did, I would appreciate it. I searched but didn't find an underside pic posted anywhere.

I have a drill press and associated guides/clamps, so if I need to drill to do this right, I am able. But helpful suggestions or hints would be much appreciated.

I mounted the Area 419 weighted rail onto a Manners stock that my CZ came in so can’t say for certain with your Bergara. On my stock the mounting holes in the rail did not line up with the swivel stud holes but A419 includes three T-nuts and screws with the rail so you can install you own T-nuts. A419 has a video on Youtube showing the install. Basically you drill a 1/4” pilot hole then use a 3/4” spade bit and counter sink the hole until the T-nut is at the right depth.
 
I'm following this build closely. I've also got a B-14R steel and it's topped with a Seekins 30 moa rail, Vortex PMR rings and a Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25x56 FFP. I recently added an Area 419 Arca Lock universal 14 inch rail. Both my girlfriend and I used it last weekend in a local PRS 22 match and found it performed well. Our performance? Well, we need some work. lol Any way, it still is butt heavy but I expect that to be the case until I can swap the barrel out for something much heavier. My overall plan is to mount it in a MPA Matrix Pro chassis and have a heavier barrel installed to get the balance closer to where it needs to be. To mount the Area 419 rail, I used the two bipod picatinny rail screws and the forward action screw (replaced OEM screw with a longer one). It's a nice package, but the balance isn't great... yet.
 
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I'm following this build closely. I've also got a B-14R steel and it's topped with a Seekins 30 moa rail, Vortex PMR rings and a Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25x56 FFP. I recently added an Area 419 Arca Lock universal 14 inch rail. Both my girlfriend and I used it last weekend in a local PRS 22 match and found it performed well. Our performance? Well, we need some work. lol Any way, it still is butt heavy but I expect that to be the case until I can swap the barrel out for something much heavier. My overall plan is to mount it in a MPA Matrix Pro chassis and have a heavier barrel installed to get the balance closer to where it needs to be. To mount the Area 419 rail, I used the two bipod picatinny rail screws and the forward action screw (replaced OEM screw with a longer one). It's a nice package, but the balance isn't great... yet.
My rail arrived yesterday evening. It sounds like you have the non-weighted rail with the single long slot to the front. Based on the picture, I can beleive that one was easily installed without modifying the stock. I bought the weighted rail that has three short slots plus two individual holes to the rear. After lining it up with the stock, it's clear that only the action screw fits directly with the factory stock. And the action screw provided is too long.

I'll try to remember to take some pics during the process of installing it for future reference for others, assuming I don't mess this up and end up with only embarrassment to post online. Going to try to find a shorter action screw tomorrow at the hardware store. If not, I'll cut down the one provided. Either way, I'll report the correct screw length for the action screw.

I'm also going to drill out two holes for the T-nuts to match the rail slots (or three, depends on how well two seem to hold the rail). Might be useful for others in the future to see how all of this lays out.
 
My rail arrived yesterday evening. It sounds like you have the non-weighted rail with the single long slot to the front. Based on the picture, I can beleive that one was easily installed without modifying the stock. I bought the weighted rail that has three short slots plus two individual holes to the rear. After lining it up with the stock, it's clear that only the action screw fits directly with the factory stock. And the action screw provided is too long.

I'll try to remember to take some pics during the process of installing it for future reference for others, assuming I don't mess this up and end up with only embarrassment to post online. Going to try to find a shorter action screw tomorrow at the hardware store. If not, I'll cut down the one provided. Either way, I'll report the correct screw length for the action screw.

I'm also going to drill out two holes for the T-nuts to match the rail slots (or three, depends on how well two seem to hold the rail). Might be useful for others in the future to see how all of this lays out.

Yes, I bought the non weighted rail. I figured that the weight this rifle would need to balance properly was more than the weighted rail would offer. I also didn't want to drill any holes in the HMR stock because after I get the Matrix Pro chassis (it's on order), I may sell the HMR stock. The action screw provided with the rail I bought was too long also, but I had others on hand and just cut one down to fit.

When you get the weighted rail mounted, let us know how it balances! I'm curious if I made the wrong choice. Wouldn't be the first time! lol :)
 
Well, I have some info. The action screw is 1/4x28 threads, and it needs to be 1 3/8" long to attach the weighted rail and not bottom out. Store had 1 1/4" and 1 1/2", and neither worked, so I ended up cutting down the one included with the rail. Polished the edges with a fine file, and it was good to go.

The factory studs are 3" apart, so I drilled new holes 3" apart, offset by 1.5" from the factory studs. Those lined up nicely with the rail slots.

IMG_1364.jpg


Installed. It still does not balance at the barricade stop, but it's a lot better, and I have not yet received the ARCA bi-pod. That should help as well.

IMG_1365.jpg
 
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My rail arrived yesterday evening. It sounds like you have the non-weighted rail with the single long slot to the front. Based on the picture, I can beleive that one was easily installed without modifying the stock. I bought the weighted rail that has three short slots plus two individual holes to the rear. After lining it up with the stock, it's clear that only the action screw fits directly with the factory stock. And the action screw provided is too long.

I'll try to remember to take some pics during the process of installing it for future reference for others, assuming I don't mess this up and end up with only embarrassment to post online. Going to try to find a shorter action screw tomorrow at the hardware store. If not, I'll cut down the one provided. Either way, I'll report the correct screw length for the action screw.

I'm also going to drill out two holes for the T-nuts to match the rail slots (or three, depends on how well two seem to hold the rail). Might be useful for others in the future to see how all of this lays out.
Thank you for taking the time to report back on what you find with the plates. I know the aluminum plate mounts up easily with the existing screws but wondered about the heavy plate and mounting. any photos and info you have would be great.

did you order the MDT GRND-Pod? maybe that will add enough weight if it's mounted all the way forward to get better balance?
 
Thank you for taking the time to report back on what you find with the plates. I know the aluminum plate mounts up easily with the existing screws but wondered about the heavy plate and mounting. any photos and info you have would be great.

did you order the MDT GRND-Pod? maybe that will add enough weight if it's mounted all the way forward to get better balance?

I do have that exact bipod on order, and based on what I see after moving that last brass weight to double up on the first, I think I will get balance with the bipod. It's close now. May not need that double up brass. Will holler when it arrives.
 
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If someone is looking at the factory stock they should look at the L3I heavy rail. It's solid steel so it's actually heavier than the weighted versions but also thinner. Plus it's cheaper :)
 
If someone is looking at the factory stock they should look at the L3I heavy rail. It's solid steel so it's actually heavier than the weighted versions but also thinner. Plus it's cheaper :)
It is all of those things you say, however it's also been out of stock for the roughly 6 weeks I've been putting together my new rifle. So I went with the Area 419.

I did get two of the newest mags from L3I. Haven't used them yet, but they look nice up close.
 
I'm slow but they're sitting on my bench lol. I'll get them listed today or tomorrow.

We even had some blems that will be unbeatable in pricing since the finish on them isn't as nice as I wanted.
 
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I'm slow but they're sitting on my bench lol. I'll get them listed today or tomorrow.

We even had some blems that will be unbeatable in pricing since the finish on them isn't as nice as I wanted.
Didn't know who this was. Glad I said nice things!

I also have the 10 MRAD mount from L3I. Another very nice piece of equipment.
 
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I'm slow but they're sitting on my bench lol. I'll get them listed today or tomorrow.

We even had some blems that will be unbeatable in pricing since the finish on them isn't as nice as I wanted.
Let us know on the blems, I know i'm interested. Also do you know how well the mounting slots line up with the Bergara HMR stock? would be nice to not have to modify the stock to fit it like the heavy Area419 rail. I can take measurements if you don't have one handy.
 
They line up in the front but you still have to add one point in the rear since we don't use the action screw on ours.
 
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Ok just measured. Action screw to rear swivel stud is 6 3/8”. Rear swivel stud to front swivel stud is 3”.

Action screw to the front of the stock is about 11” (it’s angled).
 

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Ok just measured. Action screw to rear swivel stud is 6 3/8”. Rear swivel stud to front swivel stud is 3”.

Action screw to the front of the stock is about 11” (it’s angled).
You are going to be fine on the two existing studs. That "V" shape at the rear of his rail is the empty spot where the Area 419 mounts via action screw. Since his rail does not mount there, you will have to drill at least one (or two if you are very concerned about movement) holes between the rear stud and the mag, and place t-nuts.
 
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Shown here is my b14r carbon perfectly balanced next to to rimx and a custom vudoo!! Weighs 12.3 lbs!! Bergara gets the most range time because it is not fussy on ammo. It will shoot both cci sv and tach-22 sun moa up to 100 yards fairly consistent!! Very cheap trigger time!!
 

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Shown here is my b14r carbon perfectly balanced next to to rimx and a custom vudoo!! Weighs 12.3 lbs!! Bergara gets the most range time because it is not fussy on ammo. It will shoot both cci sv and tach-22 sun moa up to 100 yards fairly consistent!! Very cheap trigger time!!

Nice, when my MDT bipod arrives, I'll post mine. Assuming it balances. If not, I'll post something about being a total loser who blew a lot of money on stuff that just didn't work right... Then just go shoot it anyway.

ETA - glad you made a comment about CCI-SV. Mine really does shoot that very well. Surprisingly well compared to 'better' stuff.
 
So what are your final specs on the build?

Bergara B14R, steel barrel
Vortex Venom 5x25x56
Vortex Precision Matched Rings, 1.10"
L3I 10 MRAD base
Area 419 weighted 14" rail, with weight closest to mag moved on top of one closest to muzzle
Area 419 barricade stop
MDT GRND Arca bipod
(not shown)
Anarchy Outdoors threaded bolt handle and knob
L3I Elite magazines
TriggerTech Diamond Flat (on order)

About 13.7 pounds total weight.

This was my attempt at an 'affordable' entry into PRS Rimfire. Easy to get carried away.
 
Bergara B14R, steel barrel
Vortex Venom 5x25x56
Vortex Precision Matched Rings, 1.10"
L3I 10 MRAD base
Area 419 weighted 14" rail, with weight closest to mag moved on top of one closest to muzzle
Area 419 barricade stop
MDT GRND Arca bipod
(not shown)
Anarchy Outdoors threaded bolt handle and knob
L3I Elite magazines
TriggerTech Diamond Flat (on order)

About 13.7 pounds total weight.

This was my attempt at an 'affordable' entry into PRS Rimfire. Easy to get carried away.

How difficult was it to change from OEM to the Anarchy Outdoors bolt handle and knob?
 
How difficult was it to change from OEM to the Anarchy Outdoors bolt handle and knob?

I called them to ask for hints, and the response was to watch the video where their guy just spins it right off the rifle... haha

It took a good 5-6 minutes of TLC with my Black and Decker heat gun on high right at the middle of the OEM handle. Then I crunched the OEM knob in a padded vice and spun the bolt itself. Knob came loose. Crunched the OEM handle in same vice, spun the bolt again, and the handle came loose. Between the heat and the vice, it is hard to get those off without leaving at least a few marks/spots. The bolt came through with no marks or other even minor damage at all.

Clean out the thread locker you just torched from the bolt, install, tighten, and go.

I bought the stainless instead of black handle, because as I feared, using a wrench to lock down that nut did slightly rub the edges of the nut. If it was the black handle, I would be afraid of stripping the black finish off the edges of the nut with the wrench.
 
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I called them to ask for hints, and the response was to watch the video where their guy just spins it right off the rifle... haha

It took a good 5-6 minutes of TLC with my Black and Decker heat gun on high right at the middle of the OEM handle. Then I crunched the OEM knob in a padded vice and spun the bolt itself. Knob came loose. Crunched the OEM handle in same vice, spun the bolt again, and the handle came loose. Between the heat and the vice, it is hard to get those off without leaving at least a few marks/spots. The bolt came through with no marks or other even minor damage at all.

Clean out the thread locker you just torched from the bolt, install, tighten, and go.

I bought the stainless instead of black handle, because as I feared, using a wrench to lock down that nut did slightly rub the edges of the nut. If it was the black handle, I would be afraid of stripping the black finish off the edges of the nut with the wrench.

I watched that video too and thought, yeah right. That was loosened beforehand.

Thanks for the tips. I figured there was thread locker used to install the bolt and you just confirmed it for me. I bought the black handle, so that will be fun! lol

Thanks!
 
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I watched that video too and thought, yeah right. That was loosened beforehand.

Thanks for the tips. I figured there was thread locker used to install the bolt and you just confirmed it for me. I bought the black handle, so that will be fun! lol

Thanks!

I'm not sure yet what position or alignment is best. Going with the position below to start. Also, I wish the knob stippling/milling was a little more aggressive. The knob is a little slippery (Little Bertha).

IMG_1380.jpg
 
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My B14r carbon in MPA chassis with weights
Vortex Viper 5x25x50 with 20MOA rail
Vortex scope bubble level
Anarchy Outdoors bolt lever and knob
A419 Hellfire Brake
Atlas Bipod
Precision Rifle ATR Thumb rest.
Bolt spring kit from Crossroads Precision.
Bix’n Andy tac sport trigger
1 converted mag with L3I extender.
 

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Bought it as a complete rifle and really liked it. Dropped it in a new MPA chassis this weekend and it balances really well and the adjustability makes it fit me even better.
 

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saw a couple of you are running the Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25 scope. Mine is on the way and realized I have a couple of sets of 30mm rings but not 34's. what height are you running and happy with?

I've got one offset Warne 34mm scope mount for an AR that I can use but was assuming standard rings would work. Might get a set of Burris XTR's with the adjustable cant if I can't find anything local.
 
saw a couple of you are running the Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25 scope. Mine is on the way and realized I have a couple of sets of 30mm rings but not 34's. what height are you running and happy with?

I've got one offset Warne 34mm scope mount for an AR that I can use but was assuming standard rings would work. Might get a set of Burris XTR's with the adjustable cant if I can't find anything local.

If you look above at mine, it has the Vortex 1.10" rings. I probably could have gotten away with the 1.00" rings. I have the Venom which is I think the non-lighted version of the Strike Eagle.
 
* picking up a B14r for myself and my daughter. Wanted to go with an R700 profile action so that I can set it up with a good trigger, stock/chassis,
Then just buy a barreled action and put it in a chassis or a stock like a KRG Bravo or Grayboe.

* scope base- I assume anything R700 SA pattern will work.
Yup.

* I did like that the L3i base is 10MRAD in keeping with MRAD vs MOA.
Does not matter. Will not affect choice of Mil or MOA scope.

* bipod- I have regular Harris bipods but it would be nice to have an ARCA rail and use my MDT bipod. Seems like the 14" Area 419 ARCA rail might be the best bet and not too difficult to attach to the HMR stock?
Covered by choice of chassis/stock. If you decide to go factory stock. There are loads of How-to's out there.

* Anything I'm missing out on or forgetting as I get this thing set up?
Ammo. Spend more time shooting it and you'll figure out what it needs.

* Anyone know why there isn't a B14R sticky?
As stated above, no one reads them. There is A LOT of info on the B14r, including stickies on Rimfire Central.

They are a great rig and easy to 'accessorize'. In my case it is not very picky on ammo, SK Standard+ runs well enough for matches.

View attachment 8139050
What acra rail is this? Is it a mlok rail to the bottom of the ridgeback? Did you drill any holes? Is it utilizing the front action screw like area 419s?
 
Where have all the aftermarket barrels gone? The Lilja is out of stock, and all the others I had bookmarked are no longer listed. Looking for a heavy match barrel, 20" or a bit more, with American muzzle threads.

What acra rail is this? Is it a mlok rail to the bottom of the ridgeback? Did you drill any holes? Is it utilizing the front action screw like area 419s?
Pretty sure I saw somewhere he said it is the sawtooth rail for it
 
* picking up a B14r for myself and my daughter. Wanted to go with an R700 profile action so that I can set it up with a good trigger, stock/chassis,
Then just buy a barreled action and put it in a chassis or a stock like a KRG Bravo or Grayboe.

* scope base- I assume anything R700 SA pattern will work.
Yup.

* I did like that the L3i base is 10MRAD in keeping with MRAD vs MOA.
Does not matter. Will not affect choice of Mil or MOA scope.

* bipod- I have regular Harris bipods but it would be nice to have an ARCA rail and use my MDT bipod. Seems like the 14" Area 419 ARCA rail might be the best bet and not too difficult to attach to the HMR stock?
Covered by choice of chassis/stock. If you decide to go factory stock. There are loads of How-to's out there.

* Anything I'm missing out on or forgetting as I get this thing set up?
Ammo. Spend more time shooting it and you'll figure out what it needs.

* Anyone know why there isn't a B14R sticky?
As stated above, no one reads them. There is A LOT of info on the B14r, including stickies on Rimfire Central.

They are a great rig and easy to 'accessorize'. In my case it is not very picky on ammo, SK Standard+ runs well enough for matches.

View attachment 8139050
What mag is that?
 
I actually really liked them. They have the original smooth body, a newer base plate, newer follower, newer spring. I reduced them to 13rds as well so I could use some more reliable parts lol
 
Wow, glad I stumbled onto this thread. I recently picked up a B-14R steel and was getting ready to make many of the mods already mentioned. But, after all this reading, I think I’m going to invest in a chassis for it instead. I like the original stock, but can’t help thinking that I will eventually get a chassis anyway, so rather than spend money on all these attachments now, I may as well put the money into a chassis now. I did put a A419 20moa rail on it and a Burris XTR III 3-18x50 scope with XTR rings so I could start shooting it.

Lots of good info here, I’m learning a lot, keep it coming.
 
When you say you cleaned the bolt, did you fully disassemble it?
You must remove ALL the factory spooge, and replace with quality oils and grease. I recommend grease for the shroud threads, lugs, cocking ramp, sears, basically any part that moves on another slowly and with pressure. Save the oil for parts moving at high speed such as the striker/firing pin. I use moly hp grease as it works wonders.
If you really want smooth, mix molybdenum disulfide grease with STP oil treatment, 50/50, and apply to exterior bolt body, then cycle in the action.
Are there any instructions anywhere that explain how to do this bolt disassembly?
All my previous experience with “detailed cleaning” involves 3 passes with a bore snake.