Gunsmithing Badger M2008 owners and gunsmiths.....Help please!

jasonk

Very Snipery
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 23, 2007
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Vancouver, Washington
Okay, here's what I know....follow the timeline.
<span style="text-decoration: underline">
Last 9 months:</span>

Got the action, installed barrel, installed CG Jackson trigger, etc etc. Shot the rifle for months with no issues to speak of (as far as this question is concerned).

Shot a match in Phoenix in February, it shot great, flawless.

Switched to a new stock, shot about 5 rounds, no issues and then stored for a while with no use.

Removed the CG Jackson (it's gone now so I can't compare in person) and installed 2 Remington triggers. It wouldn't work right, thought it might be the triggers, maybe the action....maybe both.

Installed a Timney trigger, in my garage while dry firing it "appeared" to work normal just cycling the action, pulling the trigger, repeat, repeat, etc.

<span style="text-decoration: underline">Jump to today:</span>

Went to the range, had well over 50% of the 17 or so rounds I attempted to fire, "click" and dent primer.....but no "BANG". Big bummer!! <span style="text-decoration: line-through">Studied closer, it appeared that when I pulled the trigger the bolt handle would jump. That seems odd to say the least, does everyone's do that??</span>
After the disappointing less than 50% firing ratio, I had 8 rounds left. For 4 rounds I would chamber a round and then just barely lift the bolt handle til I felt it move, then shoot. The next 4 rounds shot perfect!! But then for 4 more rounds I put the bolt handle all the way down and those 4 shot perfect...what the hell??!!

<span style="text-decoration: underline">So, I'm thinking a couple things:</span>

Is the trigger housing narrower on the Rem trigger and the Timney, causing the cocking piece to rub on it as it releases forward?

<span style="text-decoration: line-through">It appears when the bolt/f.p. is cocked and handle all the way down that the shroud is not square to the action, like the bolt handle is going to far down and tipping the bolt/shroud/cocking piece to the right. Is that possible?</span>

I thought briefly that maybe the cerakote on the lugs changed how they lock into the breech ring, but that would cause it to not go far enough, not to far.

So, any ideas? <span style="text-decoration: line-through">Other M2008 owners, does your bolt handle jump? </span> Gunsmiths, is there a fix for this?

I will call Badger tomorrow, missed them today, just curious what others guns are doing. I included a video for explanation too.

Thanks,
Jason

 
Re: Badger M2008 owners and gunsmiths.....Help please!

Jason, When dry firing the bolt moves on every bolt gun i own. the spring has nothing to stop on and the energy has to go somewhere i figure. they DONT jump when i something in the chamber for it it smack against. Put a FIRED case in there and see what it does.

I have had the same problem with a RB trigger. ended up being not enough overtravle so the sear engagement would drag and it would click, but no bang. Might try that? Other than that i dont know what to tell ya, and it was random
smile.gif
 
Re: Badger M2008 owners and gunsmiths.....Help please!

Jason,

Did you get the updated firing pin spring? I had similar problems awhile back and Marty mentioned they had a run of out of spec firing pin springs. I sent mine in for them to swap the spring and inspect and when it came back it was much stronger, totally different dry firing, and no issues so far.

Todd
 
Re: Badger M2008 owners and gunsmiths.....Help please!

ToddM, thanks for that info, I had no idea.

Chiller....appreciate the pm!

Glen, go to hell, I just hit that number with THIS post...now I know something!
laugh.gif
Okay, Glen was right, I'm a moron, it doesn't jump with a fired case in there!!

Okay, now to just figure out what's going on with the random click/fire/click.

Sounds like Marty at Badger may have the answer for me tomorrow.

J
 
Re: Badger M2008 owners and gunsmiths.....Help please!

Jason,

Let us know how it turns out, hopefully it's just the weak spring issue.
 
Re: Badger M2008 owners and gunsmiths.....Help please!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jasonk</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Spoke with Marty @ Badger.

Sending in my bolt, they have a few modifications to make on the bolt/firing pin as well as replace the firing pin spring. </div></div>

is it an update or just something they are going to try on yours?
 
Re: Badger M2008 owners and gunsmiths.....Help please!

This isn't isolated; it happened to a friend of mine. His was a GAP built rifle on the Badger action and it was a bit complicated going between GAP and Badger. Eventually it was resolved by Badger.
 
Re: Badger M2008 owners and gunsmiths.....Help please!

I had this exact problem with my rifle and the problem was, for me anyways, was the trigger, it was a timney and it was allowing the firing pin to drop just a slight amount, it was just enough to not allow full firing pin strike, I now have a std rem trigger and even though I only have a handfull of rounds through it, it seems to functioning fine.
 
Re: Badger M2008 owners and gunsmiths.....Help please!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RWSGunsmithing</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I had this exact problem with my rifle and the problem was, for me anyways, was the trigger, it was a timney and it was allowing the firing pin to drop just a slight amount, it was just enough to not allow full firing pin strike, I now have a std rem trigger and even though I only have a handfull of rounds through it, it seems to functioning fine.</div></div>

See, I was thinking this too, my CG Jackson worked flawless, the Rem's had issues, the Timney is 50/50.

Thought dremeling away just a little bit of the trigger housing up around where it would drag against the cocking piece/firing pin.

May still do that too.
 
Re: Badger M2008 owners and gunsmiths.....Help please!

Ive noticed the same on a few different actions, comes down to tollerances between action-firing pin and trigger.
The Barnard SM's work straight away with a Timney or a CG, but the part of the firing pin that contacts the trigger sear has to be stoned to get it to work with the jewel triggers most of the time,
There are that manmy triggers available that will fit Rem 700 type actions and there are differences with them all, some or the available actions that will take these triggers are slightly more compatible to whichever trigger it may be than some of the others.

Some have the bent (or notch whatever you want to call it) on the sear further forward, this can, depending on the strength of the firing pin spring, length of the firing pin travel etc, reduce the travel enough to give light strikes.

It becomes a pain in the arse when timing a bolt mounted 3 position safety catch.


Marty will surely sort it out for you.

I think the way to go is to recomend a particular trigger model, maybe a couple of models for use with a certain action and advise that modifications maybe required for the rest.

none of it is a major drama, just involves a little fitting work, maybe a stronger spring to cover all eventualities.

Pete
 
Re: Badger M2008 owners and gunsmiths.....Help please!

The timney I was using would not even set one round off. It truly was a PAIN!! I'm sure I went to the range 5 or 6 times thinking I got it this time, nope-wrong! so I just started replacing things and tring stuff till I got it.
 
Re: Badger M2008 owners and gunsmiths.....Help please!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RWSGunsmithing</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The timney I was using would not even set one round off. It truly was a PAIN!! I'm sure I went to the range 5 or 6 times thinking I got it this time, nope-wrong! so I just started replacing things and tring stuff till I got it. </div></div>

What was the last thing that you replaced when it started working?
 
Re: Badger M2008 owners and gunsmiths.....Help please!

The Trigger.

I too thought it was dragging so I replaced it, but with another timney. I was soo PO'ed so the last time I went out for the day I grabbed a factory trigger out of a parts bin and went out and long and behold the dang thing worked. shot 5 out 5 wich was better than the 0 or 5 I had tried the times before.
 
Re: Badger M2008 owners and gunsmiths.....Help please!

Figured. Next question.
Anyone got specs on the action.
Mostly the mag opening dimensions and if it can be used for WSM calibers.
I think I want more than is fesibly possible.
 
Re: Badger M2008 owners and gunsmiths.....Help please!

The bolt notch in your stock may not be deep enough to allowin the bolt to go in to full battery.
Close your bolt and try to slide a piece of paper under the handle.
 
Re: Badger M2008 owners and gunsmiths.....Help please!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: montana</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Figured. Next question.
Anyone got specs on the action.
Mostly the mag opening dimensions and if it can be used for WSM calibers.
I think I want more than is fesibly possible. </div></div>

Bolt face is the issue. Call Marty at Badger.
 
Re: Badger M2008 owners and gunsmiths.....Help please!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RWSGunsmithing</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What is there to change? </div></div>

Ummm... the update that they're doing to Jasonk's bolt??
 
Re: Badger M2008 owners and gunsmiths.....Help please!

Yeah, if nothing else the needed modifications they did to Jasonk's bolt (above and beyond the firing pin spring) when he sent it in and the pending update they are going to offer at no charge to owners of the first generation that Jason spoke of.

Plus whatever other changes (if any) they made to the design over the 9-10 months it took them to get another batch done.
 
Back from the dead...

Just thought I'd close the loop on this, as there are a lot of M2008 owners out there, and as bombproof as the action is, they'll be around a long time.

As has been hashed out pretty well already, the non "U Sear" 510 tends to cause light strikes in these actions.

However, the Timney 510s (either "U" or not) are also prone to not allowing the striker to fully release. This is because of relationship between the cocking piece and the sear.

Essentially, the cocking piece hangs down so far that a Timney 510 sear often can't get down far enough out of the way to allow the cocking piece to fully pass.

This can be fixed by either grinding/sanding a little material off the bottom of the cocking piece, or be grinding/sanding a little material off the top of the sear.

If you inspect the rear engagement surface of the sear, you can see how much of engagement you're getting between the CP and the Sear. As long as you've got at least ~.030", you've got plenty, so grinding down the top of the sear will provide more clearance for the CP - but also decreases sear engagement.

In several cases, I've been able to correct the problem by removing .020" off the top of the sear, still providing over .050" sear engagement.