Someone was telling me that instead of leaving a barrel fouled, clean out all gun oil just before shooting with isopropyl alcohol. He said the gun oil affects the first few shots until it burns away and that is what shooters call fouling shots. Does that work and is there any danger to shooting a dry bore? Thanks in advance.
Gunsmithing Bare steel?
- Thread starter Long_Trang
- Start date
Re: Bare steel?
Thanks Gary. I'll do a search for the other aspects of cold bore shooting. So, there is no danger to the bore from firing metal on metal without something between the bore and the bullet, ie..carbon fouling or gun oil?
Thanks Gary. I'll do a search for the other aspects of cold bore shooting. So, there is no danger to the bore from firing metal on metal without something between the bore and the bullet, ie..carbon fouling or gun oil?
Re: Bare steel?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Khan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks, mnshort. I'll ponder that one for a while. </div></div>
My best WAG...
He may be thinking that if the bore is oily, then the chamber would also likely be oily.
Something like oil in the chamber can create excess bolt thrust as the chamber walls don't grip the case as well during firing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Khan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks, mnshort. I'll ponder that one for a while. </div></div>
My best WAG...
He may be thinking that if the bore is oily, then the chamber would also likely be oily.
Something like oil in the chamber can create excess bolt thrust as the chamber walls don't grip the case as well during firing.
Re: Bare steel?
Oil in the bore can form a hydraulic ring which can cause pressure problems. In extreme cases, can even bulge the barrel. Oil in the chamber will also have negative effects. The bore should have a dry patch run thru it before firing. This will remove any excess oil and any other obstructions.. The alcohol performs the same function because it will evaporate almost instantly.
Oil in the bore can form a hydraulic ring which can cause pressure problems. In extreme cases, can even bulge the barrel. Oil in the chamber will also have negative effects. The bore should have a dry patch run thru it before firing. This will remove any excess oil and any other obstructions.. The alcohol performs the same function because it will evaporate almost instantly.
Re: Bare steel?
Only heavy or excess oil is a problem. To get a sterile barrel I use acetone or alcohol. My only objection is, being I own and use my Hawkeye bore scope all the time here on the coast in Oregon, I see rust start in as little as 30 minutes. Overnight or carried on a hunt in October for 2 days will turn even a stainless rifle bore orange in surface rust. Just don't chemically strip the oil out of it and you are good to go. A wet patch of Rem Oil or even WD40 followed by a couple dry ones with prevent that. This keeps my first shot right in the group even at 500 yards.
Only heavy or excess oil is a problem. To get a sterile barrel I use acetone or alcohol. My only objection is, being I own and use my Hawkeye bore scope all the time here on the coast in Oregon, I see rust start in as little as 30 minutes. Overnight or carried on a hunt in October for 2 days will turn even a stainless rifle bore orange in surface rust. Just don't chemically strip the oil out of it and you are good to go. A wet patch of Rem Oil or even WD40 followed by a couple dry ones with prevent that. This keeps my first shot right in the group even at 500 yards.
Re: Bare steel?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Brutas</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Oil in the bore can form a hydraulic ring which can cause pressure problems. In extreme cases, can even bulge the barrel. Oil in the chamber will also have negative effects. The bore should have a dry patch run thru it before firing. This will remove any excess oil and any other obstructions.. The alcohol performs the same function because it will evaporate almost instantly. </div></div>
Brutas knows what he's talking about.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Brutas</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Oil in the bore can form a hydraulic ring which can cause pressure problems. In extreme cases, can even bulge the barrel. Oil in the chamber will also have negative effects. The bore should have a dry patch run thru it before firing. This will remove any excess oil and any other obstructions.. The alcohol performs the same function because it will evaporate almost instantly. </div></div>
Brutas knows what he's talking about.
Re: Bare steel?
Hoppe's Number Nine will help...run a little through the bore and then a dry patch. It leaves a very tiny amount of rust preventive in the bore that doesn't affect CB. At least in my experience.
Hoppe's Number Nine will help...run a little through the bore and then a dry patch. It leaves a very tiny amount of rust preventive in the bore that doesn't affect CB. At least in my experience.
Re: Bare steel?
I would go as far as leaving some #9 in the bore. This actually complies with label instructions. I'd dry patch it before I departed for the range.
Greg
I would go as far as leaving some #9 in the bore. This actually complies with label instructions. I'd dry patch it before I departed for the range.
Greg
Re: Bare steel?
Very useful information, thanks guys! Is there any risk of damaging the bore from firing completely dry and free of fouling...metal on metal? Is it necessary to have something between the surface of the bore and the jacket of the bullet?
Very useful information, thanks guys! Is there any risk of damaging the bore from firing completely dry and free of fouling...metal on metal? Is it necessary to have something between the surface of the bore and the jacket of the bullet?
Re: Bare steel?
Damage? Unlikely. But running a copper jacket down a dry bore seems to me to be an open invitation to accelerated copper fouling. My approach is to leave a very light oil residue before firing the first round.
This is not about accuracy, it's about fouling, and probably isn't the best approach to getting a CCB shot that's in or near the main group.
I did some brief testing with bore prep using graphite and alcohol, and it seemed to help a bit. Graphite is my best guess for a very close approximation of carbon fouling.
Greg
Damage? Unlikely. But running a copper jacket down a dry bore seems to me to be an open invitation to accelerated copper fouling. My approach is to leave a very light oil residue before firing the first round.
This is not about accuracy, it's about fouling, and probably isn't the best approach to getting a CCB shot that's in or near the main group.
I did some brief testing with bore prep using graphite and alcohol, and it seemed to help a bit. Graphite is my best guess for a very close approximation of carbon fouling.
Greg
Re: Bare steel?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Khan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Very useful information, thanks guys! Is there any risk of damaging the bore from firing completely dry and free of fouling...metal on metal? Is it necessary to have something between the surface of the bore and the jacket of the bullet? </div></div> No danger at all. Copper vs steel= steel wins every time. Shoot until your accuracy starts degrading, then clean and shoot dry again. That's what most of us do here.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Khan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Very useful information, thanks guys! Is there any risk of damaging the bore from firing completely dry and free of fouling...metal on metal? Is it necessary to have something between the surface of the bore and the jacket of the bullet? </div></div> No danger at all. Copper vs steel= steel wins every time. Shoot until your accuracy starts degrading, then clean and shoot dry again. That's what most of us do here.
