Accuracy International update!
Well, I learned that with a modern AI, one doesn’t have to tighten the barrel on past hand tight.
Start here and read for about a page or so.
www.snipershide.com
Basically, the manual gives no guidance and I had assumed a bit tighter is better, hence my use of a 10” Cresent wrench.
People on the AI thread politely objected, so I called AINA and they said, yeah, hand tight is good. They did add that my technique isn’t hurting anything as I’m not going over 50 ft/lbs. they did say 100 ft/lbs might mess up the quick lock system, however.
I think I’ll just continue my wrench thing, only for consistency. I’ll just snap it tight without the “ugga bugga” bit lol. I guess the flats on an AI are mainly on there to help remove the barrel.
However, I am getting wrench flats cut on a new barrel for my Tikka, so obv that’ll be different, effort-wise.
Well, I learned that with a modern AI, one doesn’t have to tighten the barrel on past hand tight.
Start here and read for about a page or so.
Accuracy International Picture Thread
Who do yall recommend for cerakote work? Shortbus has closed his books from what I last saw. Pic of previously spray painted atx that will be getting coated. Send it to Win Tactical and let them refurbish and Cerakote it.
www.snipershide.com
Basically, the manual gives no guidance and I had assumed a bit tighter is better, hence my use of a 10” Cresent wrench.
People on the AI thread politely objected, so I called AINA and they said, yeah, hand tight is good. They did add that my technique isn’t hurting anything as I’m not going over 50 ft/lbs. they did say 100 ft/lbs might mess up the quick lock system, however.
I think I’ll just continue my wrench thing, only for consistency. I’ll just snap it tight without the “ugga bugga” bit lol. I guess the flats on an AI are mainly on there to help remove the barrel.
However, I am getting wrench flats cut on a new barrel for my Tikka, so obv that’ll be different, effort-wise.
