Gunsmithing Barrel Install Anti Seize

[TSpork]

Hey Guys,

I have an impact action on the way, and have a shouldered PVA barrel ready to tighten on. What anti seize are you guys using for the barrel threads and the muzzle brake?

 

[Threadcutter308]

I'm using regular old NAPA copper based anti-seize. I don't think you need to buy the "un-obtanium" brand. Anytime you're mating stainless with stainless, a good quality anti-seize is in order. Are there "better quality" compounds beside NAPA copper based out there ? I suspect so (depending on how you look at it). I think the most important thing is to just get (and maintain) some lubricant on the threads. I've never had any problems with the NAPA goop.

 

[Bender830]

Yep, I got the first copper antisieze I crossed at the auto parts store and its been just fine. I went with copper because its easy to see on what would other wise be all gray metal looking.

Don't use it on the muzzle though, for that I use rocksett to ensure it doesn't back off.

 

[Quickshot]

Hey Guys,

I have an impact action on the way, and have a shouldered PVA barrel ready to tighten on. What anti seize are you guys using for the barrel threads and the muzzle brake?

I like nickel anti seize. A lifetime supply can be had for less than $10.
Permatex® Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant
Category: Specialty Lubricants - Anti-Seize
Protects metal parts from seizing and galling at temperatures up to 2400°F (1316°C). It is recommended where copper contamination must be avoided, under conditions of extreme pressure and temperature, and with stainless steel, titanium and nickel alloys.
Cheers,

 

[Threadcutter308]

Yep, I got the first copper antisieze I crossed at the auto parts store and its been just fine.

Don't use it on the muzzle though, for that I use rocksett to ensure it doesn't back off.

Clarification; I'm running direct thread on the muzzle.......

 

[blbennett1288]

Bighorn and Tikka I used off the shelf copper based anti-seize from the auto store

AI didn’t have anything on their barrel threads so I have moved away from using anti-seize on my AI

 

[E. Bryant]

For stainless steel, try to use the Loctite Nickel stuff (note that this is different from the aluminum/graphite Loctite Silver that is typically found at auto parts stores).

There is also a Loctite Heavy Duty formulation that is supposed to work well on stainless and titanium, but I've never used it (or put hands on it, for that matter).

Note that much of the difference in various formulations has to do with upper operating temperatures. Something is better than nothing, even if it means a dab of whatever you can find at the local NAPA.

 

[AIAW]

Bighorn and Tikka I used off the shelf copper based anti-seize from the auto store

AI didn’t have anything on their barrel threads so I have moved away from using anti-seize on my AI

That‘s why it can be a SOB to get some factory AW/AE/AX barrels off. I had to put about 500 ft/lbs. on an AWSM once - and that was after cutting reliefs in the shank! A little pucker-factor with that one. Copper anti-seize, good to go.

No need for any on the AXSA/AXMC’s (in fact it would probably just attract debris into the QuickLoc pinch threads).

 

[blbennett1288]

That‘s why it can be a SOB to get some factory AW/AE/AX barrels off. I had to put about 500 ft/lbs. on an AWSM once - and that was after cutting reliefs in the shank! A little pucker-factor with that one. Copper anti-seize, good to go.

No need for any on the AXSA/AXMC’s (in fact it would probably just attract debris into the QuickLoc pinch threads).

Yeah, I havnt used any on the AX nor AT. Just a little love bump with a wrench and it gets turning.

 

[TSpork]

It seems a lot are using copper anti seize. I thought I read it shouldn’t be used since it reacts with stainless? But it seems like that’s one of those things that be more theory than reality? Just don’t want to mess up by doing something bonehead

 

[E. Bryant]

It seems a lot are using copper anti seize. I thought I read it shouldn’t be used since it reacts with stainless? But it seems like that’s one of those things that be more theory than reality? Just don’t want to mess up by doing something bonehead

Straight from the Permatex Copper Anti-Seize datasheet:

"Permatex Copper Anti-Seize was designed specifically for use on stainless steel or similar alloys."

There is supposedly potential for galvanic corrosion when combining elemental copper and certain grades of stainless steel; it seems to be the sort of thing that architects fret about when selecting exterior materials. I've never witnessed it in person.

 

[DIBBS]

So along the same lines, lube for suppressors and muzzle brake threads- same products? The reason I ask is because with a suppressor, I never have a terrible time removing it, but with muzzle brakes, sometime it is simply a BEOTCH. Perhaps I am using too little, maybe more than a little dab is needed?

 

[Rprecision]

It seems a lot are using copper anti seize. I thought I read it shouldn’t be used since it reacts with stainless? But it seems like that’s one of those things that be more theory than reality? Just don’t want to mess up by doing something bonehead

Probably should stop shooting copper bullets through your stainless barrel then too.......

I have used copper based and graphite based without any problems. I would bet most grease formulations would prevent galling as well. Keep the amount reasonable, clean off the excess and by the time you think of it again it will be time for a new barrel.

 

[Edds]

If I was assembling stainless steel parts, I would use Molykote P37.

 

[gnochi]

I just have a tube of permatex nickel anti-seize that I use for everything gunsmithing.

• Copper can accelerate cracking in stainless steel under specific conditions. It also can cause corrosion issues in contact with bare aluminum (like you get in threads; anodizing doesn’t handle corners well)
• Graphite can cause corrosion issues if it gets contacts bare aluminum
• Aluminum doesn’t tend to prevent seizing of stainless steels
• Molybdenum sulfides break down in high-temperature components when in contact with nickel (which is in almost all stainless alloys) and can cause corrosion.

If you’re only using a bit every once in a while, the cost difference for nickel is negligible, and nickel is the most commonly available anti-seize that plays nicely with all common firearms materials in all temperatures and conditions.

 

[Sig Marine]

Whatever you use for the barrel will work for the muzzle brake as well. I remove my brakes every time I clean my rifle to rid the crown of carbon so easy removal is a plus. For all my rifles, except the BIG boomers, hand tight has been sufficient to avoid loosing.

 

[FCrifles]

Metal-free anti seize works great, minus the mess of copper, Nickel, moly or whatever, that shit gets everywhere.

Loctite LB8036 or LB8014 is your friend.

 

[Walt K]

Metal-free anti seize works great, minus the mess of copper, Nickel, moly or whatever, that shit gets everywhere.

Loctite LB8036 or LB8014 is your friend.

Thanks for the tip. You're definitely correct. You get that stuff on you and your grandkids will have it too.

 

[KAIFS]

I Use it on everything including barrels, never had an issue with it one can lasts forever and thats not an overstatement... less is more here just as locktite

 

[Rprecision]

I like nickel anti seize. A lifetime supply can be had for less than $10.
Permatex® Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant
Category: Specialty Lubricants - Anti-Seize
Protects metal parts from seizing and galling at temperatures up to 2400°F (1316°C). It is recommended where copper contamination must be avoided, under conditions of extreme pressure and temperature, and with stainless steel, titanium and nickel alloys.
Cheers,

I think I'm going to pick some of this stuff up. Looks like the nickel has some functions that I may have taken for granted.

 

[gchellin]

I use ARP bolt lube. Works great and I have a big container.

 

[TSpork]

Thanks guys. So I ended up ordering some Permatex Nickel Anti Seize