Inline Fabrication also makes a quick change top plate for the Viper which makes it really easy to use if you are already set up to use the system on your press or other accessories.
Gunsmithing Barrel Vise
- Thread starter Jigstick
- Start date
Years ago when Benchmark barrels was getting started, I used to visit their shop for some projects they did for me. I asked them this same question, about how to protect barrel finish - they used closely fitted steel bushings, with the bare steel in direct contact with the barrel. They explained it provided the most grip, and didn't mar the finish since it didn't slip. I didn't believe them at first, but they proved it with a couple of VERY stuck Ruger #1 barrels that the owner wanted to re-use; after removal I couldn't tell where the barrel vise had contacted at all.
So I've gone to using that same method, and always had good results. Easy enough to make a new bushing set in the mill when necessary, and occasionally if I'm concerned about slipping I'll put some powdered rosin in the joint but that's it.
I will confess though to being stubborn and deciding that wood blocks (like the Wheeler set), paper, or other devices like the lead shims Midway used to sell HAD to be better at protecting the barrel. Ultimately all of those methods have proved inferior with less grip strength, and the only barrels I've marked have been with some sort of "protecting" layer in between the barrel and bushings. When the barrel slips, it almost doesn't matter what the material is, it's under a lot of pressure and can either mar the barrel directly, or it contains/carries abrasives that mar the barrel. Most paper, for example, contains abrasives. BTW aluminum bushings were some of the worst - lacking the high friction of direct steel on steel, but capable of severely marring a nice blued finish.
YMMV of course, but if one of the premier barrel makers in the country does it with steel on steel (and I've seen their successful results), that's good enough for me.
So I've gone to using that same method, and always had good results. Easy enough to make a new bushing set in the mill when necessary, and occasionally if I'm concerned about slipping I'll put some powdered rosin in the joint but that's it.
I will confess though to being stubborn and deciding that wood blocks (like the Wheeler set), paper, or other devices like the lead shims Midway used to sell HAD to be better at protecting the barrel. Ultimately all of those methods have proved inferior with less grip strength, and the only barrels I've marked have been with some sort of "protecting" layer in between the barrel and bushings. When the barrel slips, it almost doesn't matter what the material is, it's under a lot of pressure and can either mar the barrel directly, or it contains/carries abrasives that mar the barrel. Most paper, for example, contains abrasives. BTW aluminum bushings were some of the worst - lacking the high friction of direct steel on steel, but capable of severely marring a nice blued finish.
YMMV of course, but if one of the premier barrel makers in the country does it with steel on steel (and I've seen their successful results), that's good enough for me.
I have the SAC Modular vise on an Inline Precision quick change plate.
Works very well. I use drywall tape to protect the barrel per SAC recommendation.
The Inline Precision plate was custom and they did a great job getting it right. I don’t use it frequently so it’s nice to pop my off my bench so it’s out of the way when not in use.
Works very well. I use drywall tape to protect the barrel per SAC recommendation.
The Inline Precision plate was custom and they did a great job getting it right. I don’t use it frequently so it’s nice to pop my off my bench so it’s out of the way when not in use.
