Gunsmithing Bedding/Pillar Question with Savage MkII and Boyds AT-One stock

[Gustav7]

Just got my AT-One stock in the other day, and it appears they took way too much material out of the bottom of the stock. The factory "pillars" that the action screws go into sit about 0.40" above the bottom of the stock material. So when I went to tighten the action screws, it's obviously starting to bend/push in the laminate material. It's quite thin where the bottom of the stock is.

Just curious what you all might do to help reinforce this. I thought about trying to get some brass pillars and cutting them to roughly 0.40" to try and just take up the space, and epoxy them to the action pillars. I could also just put a small layer of epoxy on the bottom of the stock area to help reinforce the laminate area on the stock.

Not sure exactly what direction I should proceed as it doesn't look like I can do a standard bedding job. Currently searching to see if you can just get longer action pillars from savage, as that would be easier lol.

Any experience or good ideas?

 

[Millron]

Those savage rimfires are tough. I had the same issue with a factory savage laminate stock. Once I figured out the bedding it shoots lights out. I ended up putting new pillars/epoxy. You may also want to look into the upgraded DIP bottom metal, its thicker than the stock parts and won't flex when you tighten the bottom screws against the pillars.

 

[Gustav7]

Those savage rimfires are tough. I had the same issue with a factory savage laminate stock. Once I figured out the bedding it shoots lights out. I ended up putting new pillars/epoxy. You may also want to look into the upgraded DIP bottom metal, its thicker than the stock parts and won't flex when you tighten the bottom screws against the pillars.

Ya as soon as I dove into this, I saw how tough it could be. I'm definitely not skilled enough to actually bed this thing, as theres nowhere to really bed it to, at least not traditionally.

I did see the DIP products, but I already purchased the trigger guard/bottom metal from Boyds, and didn't realize the difference in the bottom metal thickness. So what I did was bedded the actual bottom metal and trigger guard (on the front), where the holes for the action screws are. This hopefully will at least give it a base to apply pressure and strengthen the wood. I also took some Starbond wood glue I had, I have their thinnest formula that can seep in the small cracks in the laminate, so I put some of that around the action screw area to help give strength.

For the pillars, I just took some small Stainless washers I had that were the perfect size, and stacked them on the two pillars used them as a makeshift pillar. It allowed me to adjust length easily, and they were honestly the exact size of the action pillar already there. These washers are going to get JB welded into place once the rest of the JB Weld sets. I'll include some pictures when it dries.

It seemed a little chincy when I first started doing it, but I don't see any other way that doesn't involve a lot more work, and honestly I don't want to screw with it. This seems rock solid right now, and its a .22...sooooo ya

 

[Millron]

Once you get it back together, use a torque wrench to set the bottom action screws, or the stock will crack. Ask me how I know. Sounds like your on the right path. If you've bedding the bottom metal into the stock you shouldn't need the thicker DIP parts. The epoxy should take up the gap and keep the thinner parts from "flexing" once tightened down.

The way savage builds these things, they are obviously not meant to be taken apart much. resist the urge to disassemble very regularly and the stock fix should last a good long time.

 

[Gustav7]

Once you get it back together, use a torque wrench to set the bottom action screws, or the stock will crack. Ask me how I know. Sounds like your on the right path. If you've bedding the bottom metal into the stock you shouldn't need the thicker DIP parts. The epoxy should take up the gap and keep the thinner parts from "flexing" once tightened down.

The way savage builds these things, they are obviously not meant to be taken apart much. resist the urge to disassemble very regularly and the stock fix should last a good long time.

I do, I use a Wheeler Fat wrench which is how I knew it needed help in the first place. Couldn't even get 20in/lbs originally, then I took the bottom metal and trigger guard off and saw the action pillars were a solid 1/4" away from contacting the actual stock, and the stock material present at the bolt location was only 1/8" thick at the smallest, and just a little thicker at the most. Definitely no bueno.

Other than that I love the stock lol.

 

[Gustav7]

Ok so heres what I did. The only issue is when I bedded the bottom metal, the JB Weld actually came up and around the bottom metal and locked it into place. The good news is, who cares. Don't really need to take the bottom metal out, and it makes a much sturdier platform to torque the action screws into.

I did also bed the trigger guard near the front screw to put some more material there for help with torqueing. The pictures on the right, I put drops of Starbond on the lip and let it dry to help strengthen the little 1/8" chunk of stock material.

I then used stainless washers to stack up, taking up the room between the action pillars and the bottom of the stock. These actually worked really well.

After that, the rifle sets in just a tad higher than it did before, but I think its actually in there correctly. I torqued to 20in/lbs easily and nothing seemed to move, and it all seems pretty secure. It actually created a little more clearance under the barrel, giving it a tad more room on the freefloat side.

 

[Millron]

I think that should work well. My sits a little "higher" as well, partialy by design, but I don't think thats a bad thing.

 

[TC_Override]

Thanks, just found this thread after searching for pillar options. Purchasing an AT-One soon for my Mark II and needed this info. Some pillar options I saw on rimfire forum. standoffs | McMaster-Carr How long do the pillar have to be?
I'm ordering the plate and trigger guard from DPI and see the screws are #20 Torx. What outside diameter, inside diameter and length do the pillars have to be? Nice work and photos Gustav7
FYI: The crappy stock that the Mark II came with has a crack where the bolt handle sets.

 

[Gustav7]

Thanks, just found this thread after searching for pillar options. Purchasing an AT-One soon for my Mark II and needed this info. Some pillar options I saw on rimfire forum. standoffs | McMaster-Carr How long do the pillar have to be?
I'm ordering the plate and trigger guard from DPI and see the screws are #20 Torx. What outside diameter, inside diameter and length do the pillars have to be? Nice work and photos Gustav7
FYI: The crappy stock that the Mark II came with has a crack where the bolt handle sets.

I'm not sure honestly. I'd have to take apart my rifle. I know you'll be happy with that DPI trigger guard, they seemed built like a tank.

The pillars were different heights for me and different widths of washers.

 

[Robert Spevock]

Would like to no the height of your front and rear pillars,I've got same stock and I also pillar bedded mine,just curious. P.S. hobby lobby stores have pieces of factory lamp rod at different I D.and O.D,I was able to get 1/4 pieces and I didn't have to hog out very me much being Savage didn't leave much to take,I feel they set up a person purposely.