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Gunsmithing Bedding Savage Model 10 in B&C A2 medalist

okangshooter

Private
Minuteman
Apr 27, 2011
59
0
58
I have a question about the small piece of stainless steel that is directly behind the magazine.
CIMG2849.jpg


The action rides directly onto this piece when assembled. There are wear marks on the reciever from it. Is it ok to glass over this as it will become permanent.

I plan only to bed back from the recoil lug to just even with the rear action screw and have the tang floated.
 
Re: Bedding Savage Model 10 in B&C A2 medalist

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: okangshooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a question about the small piece of stainless steel that is directly behind the magazine.
CIMG2849.jpg


The action rides directly onto this piece when assembled. There are wear marks on the reciever from it. Is it ok to glass over this as it will become permanent.

I plan only to bed back from the recoil lug to just even with the rear action screw and have the tang floated. </div></div>
If there is a close fit between the action and this metal piece any glass will be squeezed out upon torquing the action in place.Not bedding your tang?
 
Re: Bedding Savage Model 10 in B&C A2 medalist

Everything I have read says that Savages like the tang floated. I was wondering if I should relieve the bedding blocks on either side to allow more glass under the reciever there?
 
Re: Bedding Savage Model 10 in B&C A2 medalist

lets say the steel is just there. the action just happens to ride on it. look at the line of your ejection port and the stock. is it level? when i bedded my hs for my savage i heard alot of talk about making that even or level. in doing that i raised my action and that left enough gap to fill in and provide a complete uniform bed. if that was a pillar instead of a metal tab, then you would have the contact marks we all see and epoxy everywhere else. i floated my tang too. setthe action where you want, locate with tape on barrel, test fit, dry fit, refit and let the epoxy fill what it fills. you may never see that bit of steel again.

also, when i raised my action, even just that little bit, i had failures to feed in my factory DBM/mag system. i could have inletted deeper to compensate, but i went CDI DBM and alpha mags

from that picture it looks like a tab to hold something like the box mag? if thats the case then the aluminum block thats milled to be a mirror of the action isnt getting full contact because that tab is there. am i seein that correctly? i would have to have it in hand to tell
 
Re: Bedding Savage Model 10 in B&C A2 medalist

I'm going to put some clay on the rear block and put the action in to see what is making contact. The stainless piece does hold the magazine box in.
 
Re: Bedding Savage Model 10 in B&C A2 medalist

when i took my action out, i saw a line where the tang was digging into the stock. flipping the action over i saw there was a burr along the bottom edge. i took a file to that and then moved on to test fitting. like i said, once you get the action set where you want it, the bedding will fill in any void, space or cavity and that tab may then be glassed over. dont tighten down the action to that point, if it settles to there or ends up there its one thing. but none of the bedding posts say tighten, clamp or mash it down in there til the action meets the steel of the block. you may have contact, but dont force it. not that i think you will, just saying
 
Re: Bedding Savage Model 10 in B&C A2 medalist

Love to see a pic of the final result!
T
 
Re: Bedding Savage Model 10 in B&C A2 medalist

All that metal tang does is hold down the back of the magazine box. Take out the magazine and tab, bed the action using clay to fill in the magazine box area. When you have the bedding completely hard, you can use a dremel and remove the bedding material underneath where the metal tab will ride. When you have it finally assembled, the action will ride on the bedding material around the action, not on the metal tab like it does from the factory, although it will still be touching.
 
Re: Bedding Savage Model 10 in B&C A2 medalist

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rover31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Love to see a pic of the final result!
T </div></div>


here are a few. read the bedding threads til all of your questions are gone. it all sinks in eventually with the info in the three threads

5118397711_916a421d57_b.jpg


all that trimming around the magwell was done as it set up from below with the action in with an xacto

5043974742_6355be21d1_b.jpg


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the blade fit perfect

5043756198_42bc77349c_b.jpg


i even had a spot where the dam clay dam shifted, lol

5043965288_aabec6a3a7_b.jpg


i cut it out, you see the divots i drilled in the aluminum bedding block and into the stock (not shown) for the epoxy to bite. i used a qtip stick to push it into the holes

5043340491_75459ced1f_b.jpg


mixed a bit more and decided i had enough support to try this. i let the JBWeld set up thick

5043340687_aed735cda6_b.jpg


came out pretty good for the first time ever

5118398075_79e39d3208_b.jpg


this be the burr

5040988162_99d56b425b_b.jpg


this be evidence of a non floating tang

5040364037_9eb85627d5_b.jpg
 
Re: Bedding Savage Model 10 in B&C A2 medalist

Bed it in accordance with the sticky at the top. Leave the tang alone and let it float. When you bed the gun, you don't torque it down, so no worries about squeezing out the bedding compound there and when you bed the entire action it will all be lifted up some anyhow. I did mine, following the sticky thread, and it worked out perfectly. This was my first real bedding job. Yes I did a half ass job another rifle, 22lr beater gun, for practice first. I think if you follow the instructions posted you will be fine and it will eliminate any problems that may be existing from this. Good luck, Jason
 
Re: Bedding Savage Model 10 in B&C A2 medalist

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 6.5man</div><div class="ubbcode-body">All that metal tang does is hold down the back of the magazine box. Take out the magazine and tab, bed the action using clay to fill in the magazine box area. When you have the bedding completely hard, you can use a dremel and remove the bedding material underneath where the metal tab will ride. When you have it finally assembled, the action will ride on the bedding material around the action, not on the metal tab like it does from the factory, although it will still be touching.</div></div>

How is that tab removed? I tried to pry it out lightly but I met resistance so I stopped. Thank you all for the help!
 
Re: Bedding Savage Model 10 in B&C A2 medalist

The tab is connected to the magazine box so you'll have to pull out the whole box. The box is stuffed in there pretty tight, it's not really meant to pop in and out at will, so you'll have to tug on it pretty good. I think if i remember correctly i used needle nose pliers to get it out the first time.
 
Re: Bedding Savage Model 10 in B&C A2 medalist

Thanks guys! I'm going to bed it tomorrow when I get off of work per the sticky thread up top.
 
Re: Bedding Savage Model 10 in B&C A2 medalist

All went great. Shooting it tomorrow. Bedded over the spring tab. Magazine doesnt seem to "lock in" but stays in the bottom of the mag well.
 
Re: Bedding Savage Model 10 in B&C A2 medalist

Well the jury is still out on the improvement. I shot the rest of my M852 which it likes best. Not any worse but not the bug holes I expected. Had some odd fliers. Shot the rest of my Federal 165 gr game kings. Not any better with them either. The M118 which I had the most of perplexed me. It historically hasn't shot very well in this gun. Today it would damn near put three in the same hole then throw one an inch an a half out. Going to try some Hornady next. Have a hog hunt to go to on Friday. Not much time left.

On a different note... it seemed that my can got LOUD. I have the AAC cyclone. I had had ear plugs in as others were shooting near me. When I took them out after they left, my rifle seemed extra loud. The insides of the can look fine. It was difficult to unscrew though.