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Suppressors Best bang for the buck

NewGuy308

Private
Minuteman
Sep 10, 2020
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3
Looking to purchase my first suppressor. Plan on putting it on a 308 win and a 6.5 Creedmoor, both are bolt guns. Is direct mount the way to go or should I go with something with a quick mount? What’s everyone recommendation?
 
Looking to purchase my first suppressor. Plan on putting it on a 308 win and a 6.5 Creedmoor, both are bolt guns. Is direct mount the way to go or should I go with something with a quick mount? What’s everyone recommendation?
You will get a lot of different answers. I'm partial to the HUB mount cans because it offers so many options. I love my yhm mounts and I've been using them for years on many cans. Direct mount is great if you never want to move the can to a different rifle AND your barrel isn't too long. Otherwise the hub mount (yhm, keymo, ect) are the best option imo
 
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Just to clear things up, confirm this is what your asking for:

- suppressor recommendations
- use for precision rifle 6.5 CM and .308
- best "value"? Are you looking for more affordable? Budget?
- mounting preferences
 
TBAC Dominus or Magnus (depends on your tolerance for length). CB or direct mount (it’s a bolt gun. No need for crazy retention systems. I like CB as it protects the muzzle a bit and the first baffle of the can too).
 
Just to clear things up, confirm this is what your asking for:

- suppressor recommendations
- use for precision rifle 6.5 CM and .308
- best "value"? Are you looking for more affordable? Budget?
- mounting preferences
One suppressor that I can use on two precision rifles chambered in 6.5 and 308 and if a quick mount or direct mount would be better. I’m not afraid on buy once, cry once. Probably around $1000 with the tax stamp when all said and done, but if it’s a couple hundred bucks more I won’t be upset.
 
TBAC Dominus or Magnus (depends on your tolerance for length). CB or direct mount (it’s a bolt gun. No need for crazy retention systems. I like CB as it protects the muzzle a bit and the first baffle of the can too).
So the barrels are 24” and 26” so nothing too long but they are slow bench guns, maybe a PRS match one day with the 24”
 
So the barrels are 24” and 26” so nothing too long but they are slow bench guns, maybe a PRS match one day with the 24”
For a mostly bench gun, it’s Magnus, for sure. The extra length won’t matter if you get around to shooting a PRS style match…you won’t lose points because of a long barrel at first (or really at all). In the mean time, it’s super quiet.
 
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My favorite of mine is my TBAC Ultra 9. Not saying the ultra 9 is the best but going with TBAC rarely leaves one disappointed
 
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I would definitely take a look at the Abel Suppressor Co. Theorem. Fit and finish is incredible. It’s quiet like a lot of other great cans out there but the recoil impulse is where it really shines. I’ve been shooting it a local matches and ditched the big brakes because it does so well and it’s much more pleasant to shoot suppressed.
 

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I think tbac is obviously great cans and likely the best out there, but not what I'd call best bang for the buck. I know this place absolutely loves Tbac and myself included, but that just isn't what the OP asked for.

I'd say something like the Energetic Armament cans, Otter Creek, Able cans, or good old Dead Air Nomad would be the cans that are great cans, but also easier on the wallet. Aka "best bang for the buck" I have several Nomads and love em.
 
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Here are my thoughts:

- Direct thread (DT) is fine for your application. Other muzzle devices shine when crossing over platforms (bolt guns to ar15/10's) or when secondary retention is required for FA/'hard use'.

- For your needs, I would either go TBAC (Thunderbeast Arms) or Abel Co. Both impressively well made cans designed for precision rifle use. I have an Abel Biscuit, and the machining/quality of that suppressor is quite impressive. Great recoil impulse. The Theorem will be better if you desire more sound suppression though. For TBAC, Magnus for ultimate suppression, or Dominus if length is a concern.
 
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One suppressor that I can use on two precision rifles chambered in 6.5 and 308 and if a quick mount or direct mount would be better. I’m not afraid on buy once, cry once. Probably around $1000 with the tax stamp when all said and done, but if it’s a couple hundred bucks more I won’t be upset.
Best bang for your buck, and an awesome can. Sounds really good on both .308 win and 6.5CM/.260 Rem. They are precision rifle cans, and will not adversely affect your accuracy. You should be right in at around $1,100 can, tax stamp, and trust.

 
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Best is going to be TBAC

best bang for the buck will be Dilligent Defense Enticer Ti. Probably the LTi for your use. You could get a 6.5 end cap to go with the 30 cal end cap it comes with. Matching the end caps to the caliber helps a little bit with suppression.

Id get a taper mount system like the Area 419, reardan etc for mounting.
 
Well, since the criteria is "best bang for buck" not best suppressor, I'm surprised no one has mentioned KGM R30. Specifically designed to either enhance (or at least not degrade) accuracy, well built, good suppression, and significantly reduces recoil. More importantly, you can currently pick a KGM30T up for $500 - https://www.bereli.com/kgm-r30t-rifle-suppressor-tan/.

I know OP said he was willing to spend $1,000, which is the price point of a lot of the suggestions, but again, if you're looking for bank for buck I think the KGM for $500 wins. Of course, that's just one very tight fisted man's opinion. YMMV.
 
For my bolt guns I prefer my direct thread. Doesn’t cost extra for every rifle I want to mount it to and doesn’t carbon lock like some QD mounts do. For my semis and some bolt guns I have ASR SilencerCo mounts
 
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One suppressor that I can use on two precision rifles chambered in 6.5 and 308 and if a quick mount or direct mount would be better. I’m not afraid on buy once, cry once. Probably around $1000 with the tax stamp when all said and done, but if it’s a couple hundred bucks more I won’t be upset.
My answer is direct thread 5/8x24. It isn't hard
to unscrew it and screw it back on. There is however quite a few threads about cans that are stuck on brakes. I use the same can on everything, the TBACs are great cans IF you can find one in stock. I use a Dead Air Nomad 30 and it has been very good. Weighs 14 oz and I have a Dead Air TI in jail that is under 9 oz. There are several very good cans and yes, buy once, cry once BUT you will probably not buy only once. I'm on #3 now.
 
 
Diligent Defense LTi. With Rearden Atlas and RPD brake or Xeno adapter and brake, if you don't want to do direct thread.
 
Not an expert but here are my thoughts on the matter. For the most part direct thread suppressors' are considered a best practice. Less chance for mis-alignment. However, can only be used for that specific thread size. With an adapter or muzzle device setup the suppressor can be used with different thread sizes, usually without incident. An example would be using a 30 cal can (5/8-24) on a 223 cal (1/2-28) gun. Switching between guns with different thread sizes is just a matter of fitting it with an adapter or muzzle device for the can. Another advantage of going this route is that some cans will guarantee always ending in the same orientation. This means that any POI shift installing the suppressor will always be the same. You won't have to guess on where the shot will go when shifting from no suppressor to suppressed.

Using this train of thought when I purchased my first suppressor I settled on a PTP Tactical Master Chief QD. Now they only manufacture flash suppressors and muzzle brakes with 5/8-24 and 1/2-28 threads but that pretty much covers everything from 30 cal to 223 and everything in between. I was even able to find an adapter with class 3a thread spec's so I could adapt a 30 cal brake to 9/16-24 threads. This saved me from having to buy a specific can for just one rifle.

Now if you're looking for ultimate quiet then a caliber specific can is usually considered the best route. An option is a can with replaceable front caps which will restrict the opening to an appropriate size. Something else to consider is cleaning. If you want to shoot lead bullets then you'll want one that can be disassembled for better cleaning. One piece cans normally recommend not shooting lead bullets, copper jacketed only, to avoid lead buildup inside.

Good luck on your search.
 
I'm not sure my opinion matters, I've yet to purchase a can. But I think I have 8 Surefire muzzle devices scattered across my rifles and 1 warden blast forward device. My thoughts were geared towards what's going to give me the longest service life.
 
I'm not sure my opinion matters, I've yet to purchase a can. But I think I have 8 Surefire muzzle devices scattered across my rifles and 1 warden blast forward device. My thoughts were geared towards what's going to give me the longest service life.
Well, the OCL Hydrogen cans are rated for up to .300 RUM/Norma Mag, and come with a lifetime no-BS warranty. They’re pretty nice guys, too. So, even if the damage was your fault and you admit your screwup to them, they’ll probably still take care of you. 👍🏼

To torture-test their cans, they test them on both a 4.5” full-auto 5.56 SBR, and a 12.5” .300 Win Mag SBR. There’s videos and posts about it on their Instagram. Pretty interesting to watch cans from big names get blown up, or see how well they hold up on that 4.5” 5.56 M4 with a 60rd drum and the giggle-switch engaged. 😂
 
Best bang for the buck? Dead Air Nomad - because its robust, has great sound, and stainless steel is cheaper than Ti. Of course the same could be said for other cans as well. The Abel suppressors look interesting and they have stainless options as well. Rex Selentium, SilencerCo, and others also have something for a great price. No matter the can I would definitely make sure you get the hub mount option.

Now if you want to go with best lightweight suppressor or quietest we will go down a different rabbit hole.
 
Keep in mind that it's pretty much a "forever " purchase. Definately do your own research of what fits your needs. So many more choices now than just a few years ago. My first is now an expensive paperweight. 2nd is a tbac. Think tbac would be the easy button and buy once cry once comes in to play.
 
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Otter creek labs seems to be the best deal going for quality/performance/materials/price.

The K6 cans were also a hell of a deal recently,and some are still floating around.
 
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Best bang for your buck is going to be Aero Precision in my opinion, and I've played with or been around most of the options today. They have great sound, great price, and the engineering team is working on different brake designs if recoil mitigation is important to you. I've seen the prototype at a match already. Stick to direct thread, it's simple and more cost effective in the long run.
 
Best bang for the buck? Dead Air Nomad - because its robust, has great sound, and stainless steel is cheaper than Ti. Of course the same could be said for other cans as well. The Abel suppressors look interesting and they have stainless options as well. Rex Selentium, SilencerCo, and others also have something for a great price. No matter the can I would definitely make sure you get the hub mount option.

Now if you want to go with best lightweight suppressor or quietest we will go down a different rabbit hole.
The dead air nomad 30L and 30Ti did catch my eye, but I need to do some more research on materials because that goes over my head. Like do I need inconel baffles for what I’m doing?
 
The dead air nomad 30L and 30Ti did catch my eye, but I need to do some more research on materials because that goes over my head. Like do I need inconel baffles for what I’m doing?

I wouldn't worry about baffle design, especially for precision rifle use. You're not going to wear out a suppressor for that use, unless you are running some really high round counts.
 
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DA Nomad TI is a really nice can, particularly if you want to go light. It's literally like a feather. And compared to my Sandman S, I would say the tone/suppression is better. TI should be fine on a bolt action rifle. You do have to watch your temps. with TI, but you're not going to be doing mag dumps with a bolt action rifle. And you're presumably not looking at barrel lengths of 10" and under. TI tends to heat up pretty quickly, but also to cool down faster than stainless steel. I use the Xeno mount, which I like, but you're adding a couple of ounces.
 
This is so interesting to see because I had the same question.
Sounds like .30 cal TBAC or Nomad are the ways to go for this application.
Would assume titanium for lighter weight hunting options.
Thanks for all the feedback gents
 
The dead air nomad 30L and 30Ti did catch my eye, but I need to do some more research on materials because that goes over my head. Like do I need inconel baffles for what I’m doing?
Similar to what @kthomas said, the materials are usually more about weight management more than anything except the blast baffle in certain applications. Inconel handles heat and abuse more than most materials but if you're not going to be shooting full auto or plasma fast rounds then it's biggest benefit is weight savings.
 
The dead air nomad 30L and 30Ti did catch my eye, but I need to do some more research on materials because that goes over my head. Like do I need inconel baffles for what I’m doing?
Inconel is for hard use - like mag dumps from an AR. The Nomad is great and the Ti versions weigh just over half of the stainless versions. Personally I prefer the Ti because they weight difference is so substantial and a suppressor is an investment of time as well as money. After waiting 8-9 months for the approval you most likely will wish you would have sprung for a Ti can as they are typically only a couple hundred bucks more.
 
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I wouldn’t think about "best bang for the buck", the difference between good and great is $300-$400. Not chump change, but once you get a can, you’re pretty much stuck with it, they’re hard to resell and you can’t just pop out and pick a new one up the next day.

Because people don’t often get the chance to listen to a selection side by side, they go for what a friend has, that sounds decent, or come to a forum for opinions and get a ton, as everybody thinks theirs sounds great. So, I'd say join Pewscience for a month and read their reviews- you’ll get an objective comparative measurement how various silencers perform against each other, both to you and to bystanders. It doesn’t cover every suppressor in every scenario, but it’s probably the best guide.

Cross reference that against the features that are important to YOU- weight/length/Hub compatibility etc, so you can make an informed choice .
 
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well it would brighten my early morning getting ready for range day routine not thinking many of the neighbors would like it , but to hell with em .
 
Also, keep in mind what is "best" really depends on your use and what is important to you. For me, actual decibel reduction is generally less important than other things. Whether you're shooting a 24" bolt gun or a 10.5" AR any center fire round that's going supersonic is not really going to be hearing safe in any event - so if you care about your hearing you really should be using some kind of ear pro.

As a lefty, back pressure is definitely an issue for me, particularly on semi-autos. You righties may care less about this. I also care about what impact attaching a suppressor has on accuracy (something that's I don't think is talked about enough). And if you're swapping suppressor between guns, you going to want your zero to remain the same and not have POI shift every time you remove and then re-attach your suppressor. The attachment system and ease of attachment is also an important consideration. And weight and length. And how it impacts/reduces recoil, which is important both on my AR's since it helps with faster follow up shots and bolt guns, since it helps me spot hits/misses and generally helps improve how accurately I can shoot the gun.

I don't have night vision and generally don't shoot at night. So flash suppression isn't a top priority. But for someone else, it may be key. A lot of different factors you need to take into account.

So I really wouldn't get hung up on 1-2 db difference between two cans.
 
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