Re: Best carry .45
Oh yes ... comforting and comfortable ...
Oh yes ... comforting and comfortable ...
Suppressors Best carry .45
Re: Best carry .45
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shumba</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I spoke with the range master at my department. He said I could qualify with any ammo that is less than 1200 fps. Will hopefully find some factory 10mm ammo that is spec less than 1200 fps and then I can carry my 10mm as a back-up CCW gun. G20SF all the way!!!!
Tim </div></div>
Shouldn't be a problem. Factory 10mm ammo is just like .40 from what I understand.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shumba</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I spoke with the range master at my department. He said I could qualify with any ammo that is less than 1200 fps. Will hopefully find some factory 10mm ammo that is spec less than 1200 fps and then I can carry my 10mm as a back-up CCW gun. G20SF all the way!!!!
Tim </div></div>
Shouldn't be a problem. Factory 10mm ammo is just like .40 from what I understand.
Re: Best carry .45
1911's are finicky, to carry one is to accept this. Take 10 new glocks and put them next to 10 new 1911s from anyone, through a 1500 round no cleaning HP test and on average the glocks will win every time. That's not to say a 1911 can't be 100% for CCW, it just takes more work in many cases. The advantage is they conceal great because they are thin, they shoot very well, and you can't argue with a 230gr slug. I'll take weight over speed any day for stopping power.
A tight slide does little or nothing for accuracy, most guns these days should have looser slide fit, not tighter, but customers are stupid. Slide too tight is the first thing that locks a 1911 up when it gets dirty, accuracy comes from the bushing and barrel fit.
A 3-3.5lb single action trigger with no take up and no creep is too light. A crisp no creep ~5 lbs is much more realistic. Again customers are stupid and they are the same guys that want a 8oz trigger on their hunting rifle.
Having owned wilson, nighthawk, ed brown, etc. I will say that I think they are all great guns, and each does something better than the others, with different options, and at a different price point. You can easily buy a low end springfield etc. and send it to a good smith and have a reliability package put on it, a trigger job etc. and for probably half the money you will come out with a reliable solid gun for CCW.
Take my new nighthawk talon II bobtail, great gun, their permakote finish is about as durable as krylon, but it's a working gun so I don't care.
Complete tear down, put JB bore bright (finer red compound) on the frame/slide rails, bushing, barrel. Work slide 250 times, tear down, clean, repeat. Polish and adjust internal parts. At this point everything is sprayed clean, lubed, reassembled.
This is probably what 1000-2000 rounds would smooth out, but I still feel polishing in the beginning is good. Certainly polishing before hand is not identical to mating the parts through firing, so there is still polishing/mating that goes on as the gun is fired. Doing the polishing before hand greatly increases the chance the gun runs 100% to start with at the range test and wastes less ammo. I'd be willing to bet that magazine issues, polishing and extractor adjustment fixes 95%+ of 1911 problems. It also makes sure there are no burrs that if left and fired for 1000 rounds could chew up parts.
Range results, fired 750 rounds of FMJ and 250 rounds of HP ammo, without cleaning, no failures. I had a couple weak hand shots where brass wizzed by my head...operator error. This is my standard carry gun test, if it won't pass it 100% I won't carry it.
A good 1911 mag test is to take a FMJ round put it in the mag, slowly let the slide forward till it contacts the rear of the round, then let it go. The slide should strip the round, and go into battery with no issues. Then repeat for your HP carry ammo. If it won't pass, try new mags. Do this with full mags as well because round pressure and height will vary slightly on where it is in the mag. Feeding empty casings is another test, but it's been hit or miss for me. I've had guns that passed this test that didn't run 100% at the range.
The real question with guns like the NH, wilson, EB etc. is at that price point $3000 or so, should the owner have to polish up parts and do such adjustments. I personally don't think so. Now if you have problems all those companies have great customer service and you can send things back. However, it goes back to price. For $3000 things like the chamber and feed ramps should be mirror polished, trigger pull should be perfect, the mags should run 100% with the gun, coatings should be durable etc. There's no way that for that kind of $ the customer should be able to do a better polish job with a dremel than the factory did and end up with a noticeable smoother gun in 30 minutes. If it's a $600 springfield GI, sure that's expected but at $3000 it shouldn't happen. The more I see of these high end guns the more I'm convinced you are better off buying a cheap "donor" gun, replacing some parts and having a smith work on it.
1911's are finicky, to carry one is to accept this. Take 10 new glocks and put them next to 10 new 1911s from anyone, through a 1500 round no cleaning HP test and on average the glocks will win every time. That's not to say a 1911 can't be 100% for CCW, it just takes more work in many cases. The advantage is they conceal great because they are thin, they shoot very well, and you can't argue with a 230gr slug. I'll take weight over speed any day for stopping power.
A tight slide does little or nothing for accuracy, most guns these days should have looser slide fit, not tighter, but customers are stupid. Slide too tight is the first thing that locks a 1911 up when it gets dirty, accuracy comes from the bushing and barrel fit.
A 3-3.5lb single action trigger with no take up and no creep is too light. A crisp no creep ~5 lbs is much more realistic. Again customers are stupid and they are the same guys that want a 8oz trigger on their hunting rifle.
Having owned wilson, nighthawk, ed brown, etc. I will say that I think they are all great guns, and each does something better than the others, with different options, and at a different price point. You can easily buy a low end springfield etc. and send it to a good smith and have a reliability package put on it, a trigger job etc. and for probably half the money you will come out with a reliable solid gun for CCW.
Take my new nighthawk talon II bobtail, great gun, their permakote finish is about as durable as krylon, but it's a working gun so I don't care.
Complete tear down, put JB bore bright (finer red compound) on the frame/slide rails, bushing, barrel. Work slide 250 times, tear down, clean, repeat. Polish and adjust internal parts. At this point everything is sprayed clean, lubed, reassembled.
This is probably what 1000-2000 rounds would smooth out, but I still feel polishing in the beginning is good. Certainly polishing before hand is not identical to mating the parts through firing, so there is still polishing/mating that goes on as the gun is fired. Doing the polishing before hand greatly increases the chance the gun runs 100% to start with at the range test and wastes less ammo. I'd be willing to bet that magazine issues, polishing and extractor adjustment fixes 95%+ of 1911 problems. It also makes sure there are no burrs that if left and fired for 1000 rounds could chew up parts.
Range results, fired 750 rounds of FMJ and 250 rounds of HP ammo, without cleaning, no failures. I had a couple weak hand shots where brass wizzed by my head...operator error. This is my standard carry gun test, if it won't pass it 100% I won't carry it.
A good 1911 mag test is to take a FMJ round put it in the mag, slowly let the slide forward till it contacts the rear of the round, then let it go. The slide should strip the round, and go into battery with no issues. Then repeat for your HP carry ammo. If it won't pass, try new mags. Do this with full mags as well because round pressure and height will vary slightly on where it is in the mag. Feeding empty casings is another test, but it's been hit or miss for me. I've had guns that passed this test that didn't run 100% at the range.
The real question with guns like the NH, wilson, EB etc. is at that price point $3000 or so, should the owner have to polish up parts and do such adjustments. I personally don't think so. Now if you have problems all those companies have great customer service and you can send things back. However, it goes back to price. For $3000 things like the chamber and feed ramps should be mirror polished, trigger pull should be perfect, the mags should run 100% with the gun, coatings should be durable etc. There's no way that for that kind of $ the customer should be able to do a better polish job with a dremel than the factory did and end up with a noticeable smoother gun in 30 minutes. If it's a $600 springfield GI, sure that's expected but at $3000 it shouldn't happen. The more I see of these high end guns the more I'm convinced you are better off buying a cheap "donor" gun, replacing some parts and having a smith work on it.
Re: Best carry .45
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The real question with guns like the NH, wilson, EB etc. is at that price point $3000 or so, should the owner have to polish up parts and do such adjustments.</div></div>
Guess I'm just lucky. Only brands I've had trouble with are the mid-range priced (Colt and Kimber).
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The real question with guns like the NH, wilson, EB etc. is at that price point $3000 or so, should the owner have to polish up parts and do such adjustments.</div></div>
Guess I'm just lucky. Only brands I've had trouble with are the mid-range priced (Colt and Kimber).
Re: Best carry .45
Wilson CQB
Wilson CQB
Re: Best carry .45
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ToddM</div><div class="ubbcode-body">1911's are finicky, to carry one is to accept this. Take 10 new glocks and put them next to 10 new 1911s from anyone, through a 1500 round no cleaning HP test and on average the glocks will win every time. That's not to say a 1911 can't be 100% for CCW, it just takes more work in many cases. The advantage is they conceal great because they are thin, they shoot very well, and you can't argue with a 230gr slug. I'll take weight over speed any day for stopping power.</div></div>
I don't know why this has been repeated so many times on the internet that it's just assumed. Yes, Glocks have big, sloppy chambers, and thus are usually pretty reliable. But the modern day 1911 with a decent recoil spring, a properly cut feed ramp, a decent magazine, a lowered and flared ejection port, and a properly tensioned extractor is no less reliable than anything else on the market. You may say that's a long list of features, and sure, it is. But they are basically standard on any decent 1911, even the Taurus.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A tight slide does little or nothing for accuracy, most guns these days should have looser slide fit, not tighter, but customers are stupid. Slide too tight is the first thing that locks a 1911 up when it gets dirty, accuracy comes from the bushing and barrel fit. </div></div>
I would be willing to bet that it's a tight lockup that'd stop a 1911 before anything else. And a shitty slide to frame fit is the sign of a sloppily manufactured pistol. I totally disagree with you--the modern consumer is not asking too much to have a decent slide to frame fit on his mass-produced 1911. A $1000 1911 CAN have decent fit and finish. There's no reason to accept anything less. I do agree that it has very little to do with accuracy, however.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
A 3-3.5lb single action trigger with no take up and no creep is too light. A crisp no creep ~5 lbs is much more realistic. Again customers are stupid and they are the same guys that want a 8oz trigger on their hunting rifle.</div></div>
Neither of my 1911s has a 5 lb trigger. Although I don't have a scale, I would put them in the 3.5-4 lb range. I would not call 2.5-3 pounds too light, either. As long as your trigger is safe, 3 pounds is perfectly fine.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Having owned wilson, nighthawk, ed brown, etc. I will say that I think they are all great guns, and each does something better than the others, with different options, and at a different price point. You can easily buy a low end springfield etc. and send it to a good smith and have a reliability package put on it, a trigger job etc. and for probably half the money you will come out with a reliable solid gun for CCW. </div></div>
There's no reason in the year 2009 to be sending a factory new gun for a "reliability package." All of that money will be wasted.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Take my new nighthawk talon II bobtail, great gun, their permakote finish is about as durable as krylon, but it's a working gun so I don't care. </div></div>
So send it to get hard chromed and be done with it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Range results, fired 750 rounds of FMJ and 250 rounds of HP ammo, without cleaning, no failures. I had a couple weak hand shots where brass wizzed by my head...operator error. This is my standard carry gun test, if it won't pass it 100% I won't carry it. </div></div>
I don't really think that's necessary, but I'm not going to fault you for wanting your gun to work. I'd rather see you shoot a match with it on the clock and train YOURSELF to make sure you can shove mags in it at speed and blaze away on the trigger without it stopping, but if popping paper at the range convinces you that you have a reliable gun, so be it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The real question with guns like the NH, wilson, EB etc. is at that price point $3000 or so, should the owner have to polish up parts and do such adjustments. I personally don't think so. Now if you have problems all those companies have great customer service and you can send things back. However, it goes back to price. For $3000 things like the chamber and feed ramps should be mirror polished, trigger pull should be perfect, the mags should run 100% with the gun, coatings should be durable etc. There's no way that for that kind of $ the customer should be able to do a better polish job with a dremel than the factory did and end up with a noticeable smoother gun in 30 minutes. If it's a $600 springfield GI, sure that's expected but at $3000 it shouldn't happen. The more I see of these high end guns the more I'm convinced you are better off buying a cheap "donor" gun, replacing some parts and having a smith work on it.</div></div>
I've never owned a $3000 1911, nor had anyone else work on one of my guns. I have handled all kinds and I just cannot see why it'd be worth the money. I shot a Wilson about 4 years ago and it was no nicer than my Kimbers when it came to shooting.
I agree with you that for 3 grand, a gun better be perfect and exactly the way I ordered it.
I really think all this talk about equipment is unnecessary. Put 10,000+ rounds through your 1911 in a year or two and you can say you're comfortable with it. I've put over 2,000 downrange in various matches with my 1911 just this summer (and I haven't had the time to practice at all).
I think people are stupid and wrong for not trusting their 1911s. I've shot enough matches to know that everything acts up eventually, no matter how reliable it is, and that operator-caused malfunctions are much more common than equipment-caused ones. My suggestion? Get your ass off the internet, get your gear and hit the range. Everything acts up eventually, so you might as well learn how to fix it when all that's on the line is your match score and not your life.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ToddM</div><div class="ubbcode-body">1911's are finicky, to carry one is to accept this. Take 10 new glocks and put them next to 10 new 1911s from anyone, through a 1500 round no cleaning HP test and on average the glocks will win every time. That's not to say a 1911 can't be 100% for CCW, it just takes more work in many cases. The advantage is they conceal great because they are thin, they shoot very well, and you can't argue with a 230gr slug. I'll take weight over speed any day for stopping power.</div></div>
I don't know why this has been repeated so many times on the internet that it's just assumed. Yes, Glocks have big, sloppy chambers, and thus are usually pretty reliable. But the modern day 1911 with a decent recoil spring, a properly cut feed ramp, a decent magazine, a lowered and flared ejection port, and a properly tensioned extractor is no less reliable than anything else on the market. You may say that's a long list of features, and sure, it is. But they are basically standard on any decent 1911, even the Taurus.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A tight slide does little or nothing for accuracy, most guns these days should have looser slide fit, not tighter, but customers are stupid. Slide too tight is the first thing that locks a 1911 up when it gets dirty, accuracy comes from the bushing and barrel fit. </div></div>
I would be willing to bet that it's a tight lockup that'd stop a 1911 before anything else. And a shitty slide to frame fit is the sign of a sloppily manufactured pistol. I totally disagree with you--the modern consumer is not asking too much to have a decent slide to frame fit on his mass-produced 1911. A $1000 1911 CAN have decent fit and finish. There's no reason to accept anything less. I do agree that it has very little to do with accuracy, however.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
A 3-3.5lb single action trigger with no take up and no creep is too light. A crisp no creep ~5 lbs is much more realistic. Again customers are stupid and they are the same guys that want a 8oz trigger on their hunting rifle.</div></div>
Neither of my 1911s has a 5 lb trigger. Although I don't have a scale, I would put them in the 3.5-4 lb range. I would not call 2.5-3 pounds too light, either. As long as your trigger is safe, 3 pounds is perfectly fine.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Having owned wilson, nighthawk, ed brown, etc. I will say that I think they are all great guns, and each does something better than the others, with different options, and at a different price point. You can easily buy a low end springfield etc. and send it to a good smith and have a reliability package put on it, a trigger job etc. and for probably half the money you will come out with a reliable solid gun for CCW. </div></div>
There's no reason in the year 2009 to be sending a factory new gun for a "reliability package." All of that money will be wasted.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Take my new nighthawk talon II bobtail, great gun, their permakote finish is about as durable as krylon, but it's a working gun so I don't care. </div></div>
So send it to get hard chromed and be done with it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Range results, fired 750 rounds of FMJ and 250 rounds of HP ammo, without cleaning, no failures. I had a couple weak hand shots where brass wizzed by my head...operator error. This is my standard carry gun test, if it won't pass it 100% I won't carry it. </div></div>
I don't really think that's necessary, but I'm not going to fault you for wanting your gun to work. I'd rather see you shoot a match with it on the clock and train YOURSELF to make sure you can shove mags in it at speed and blaze away on the trigger without it stopping, but if popping paper at the range convinces you that you have a reliable gun, so be it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The real question with guns like the NH, wilson, EB etc. is at that price point $3000 or so, should the owner have to polish up parts and do such adjustments. I personally don't think so. Now if you have problems all those companies have great customer service and you can send things back. However, it goes back to price. For $3000 things like the chamber and feed ramps should be mirror polished, trigger pull should be perfect, the mags should run 100% with the gun, coatings should be durable etc. There's no way that for that kind of $ the customer should be able to do a better polish job with a dremel than the factory did and end up with a noticeable smoother gun in 30 minutes. If it's a $600 springfield GI, sure that's expected but at $3000 it shouldn't happen. The more I see of these high end guns the more I'm convinced you are better off buying a cheap "donor" gun, replacing some parts and having a smith work on it.</div></div>
I've never owned a $3000 1911, nor had anyone else work on one of my guns. I have handled all kinds and I just cannot see why it'd be worth the money. I shot a Wilson about 4 years ago and it was no nicer than my Kimbers when it came to shooting.
I agree with you that for 3 grand, a gun better be perfect and exactly the way I ordered it.
I really think all this talk about equipment is unnecessary. Put 10,000+ rounds through your 1911 in a year or two and you can say you're comfortable with it. I've put over 2,000 downrange in various matches with my 1911 just this summer (and I haven't had the time to practice at all).
I think people are stupid and wrong for not trusting their 1911s. I've shot enough matches to know that everything acts up eventually, no matter how reliable it is, and that operator-caused malfunctions are much more common than equipment-caused ones. My suggestion? Get your ass off the internet, get your gear and hit the range. Everything acts up eventually, so you might as well learn how to fix it when all that's on the line is your match score and not your life.
Re: Best carry .45
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Downzero</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
But the modern day 1911 with a decent recoil spring, a properly cut feed ramp, a decent magazine, a lowered and flared ejection port, and a properly tensioned extractor is no less reliable than anything else on the market. </div></div>
I'd agree to that, problem is most of them don't come out of the box with the parts correctly polished/finished or a properly fit or tensioned extractor/ejector. I've been to more than a dozen combat handgun courses, shot many matches and if you remove the obvious low end junk, the 1911's go down and have more issues at any price level than the glocks and similar. Yes everything breaks, but 1911's are like a fine tuned race car.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Downzero</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Neither of my 1911s has a 5 lb trigger. Although I don't have a scale, I would put them in the 3.5-4 lb range. I would not call 2.5-3 pounds too light, either. As long as your trigger is safe, 3 pounds is perfectly fine. </div></div>
That's your opinion I don't agree, unless you face life threatening situations on a regular basis, the average person has NO fine motor skills when SHTF, most couldn't write their name, trying to manipulate a 3lb trigger with skill in that situation is slim to none for most. If you've shot that many matches you've not doubt seen guys that are presenting to the target and their first round goes off too early, and that's just under match pressure, nothing near the adrenaline and tunnel vision etc. of a real life threatening situation.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Downzero</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
There's no reason in the year 2009 to be sending a factory new gun for a "reliability package." All of that money will be wasted.
</div></div>
I agree but that's just not reality of 1911's all the major manufacturers have a significant amount of issues with their reliability. The internet certainly magnifies the issues, but log onto any 1911 forum for any manufacturer and there are significant amounts of people having issues. Usually extractor related, or poorly reamed/polished chambers.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Downzero</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I don't really think that's necessary, but I'm not going to fault you for wanting your gun to work. I'd rather see you shoot a match with it on the clock and train YOURSELF to make sure you can shove mags in it at speed and blaze away on the trigger without it stopping, but if popping paper at the range convinces you that you have a reliable gun, so be it.</div></div>
Don't pretend to know how I train, that's just an initial test for me. I shoot combat courses and matches on a regular basis, probalby 10K+ a year, but if the gun can't pass that first test, there's no point in carrying it or taking it to a course.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Downzero</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> My suggestion? Get your ass off the internet, get your gear and hit the range. Everything acts up eventually, so you might as well learn how to fix it when all that's on the line is your match score and not your life. </div></div>
If you're only shooting 2K rounds a year, it's not me that needs to get their ass to the range, that's a couple of afternoons or a single combat course.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Downzero</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
But the modern day 1911 with a decent recoil spring, a properly cut feed ramp, a decent magazine, a lowered and flared ejection port, and a properly tensioned extractor is no less reliable than anything else on the market. </div></div>
I'd agree to that, problem is most of them don't come out of the box with the parts correctly polished/finished or a properly fit or tensioned extractor/ejector. I've been to more than a dozen combat handgun courses, shot many matches and if you remove the obvious low end junk, the 1911's go down and have more issues at any price level than the glocks and similar. Yes everything breaks, but 1911's are like a fine tuned race car.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Downzero</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Neither of my 1911s has a 5 lb trigger. Although I don't have a scale, I would put them in the 3.5-4 lb range. I would not call 2.5-3 pounds too light, either. As long as your trigger is safe, 3 pounds is perfectly fine. </div></div>
That's your opinion I don't agree, unless you face life threatening situations on a regular basis, the average person has NO fine motor skills when SHTF, most couldn't write their name, trying to manipulate a 3lb trigger with skill in that situation is slim to none for most. If you've shot that many matches you've not doubt seen guys that are presenting to the target and their first round goes off too early, and that's just under match pressure, nothing near the adrenaline and tunnel vision etc. of a real life threatening situation.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Downzero</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
There's no reason in the year 2009 to be sending a factory new gun for a "reliability package." All of that money will be wasted.
</div></div>
I agree but that's just not reality of 1911's all the major manufacturers have a significant amount of issues with their reliability. The internet certainly magnifies the issues, but log onto any 1911 forum for any manufacturer and there are significant amounts of people having issues. Usually extractor related, or poorly reamed/polished chambers.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Downzero</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I don't really think that's necessary, but I'm not going to fault you for wanting your gun to work. I'd rather see you shoot a match with it on the clock and train YOURSELF to make sure you can shove mags in it at speed and blaze away on the trigger without it stopping, but if popping paper at the range convinces you that you have a reliable gun, so be it.</div></div>
Don't pretend to know how I train, that's just an initial test for me. I shoot combat courses and matches on a regular basis, probalby 10K+ a year, but if the gun can't pass that first test, there's no point in carrying it or taking it to a course.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Downzero</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> My suggestion? Get your ass off the internet, get your gear and hit the range. Everything acts up eventually, so you might as well learn how to fix it when all that's on the line is your match score and not your life. </div></div>
If you're only shooting 2K rounds a year, it's not me that needs to get their ass to the range, that's a couple of afternoons or a single combat course.
Re: Best carry .45
idk if its been mentioned (didnt read all the pages) but the H.K.
HK 45 is very nice and its what I carry, that or a springer GI 1911 that has been totally reliable with everything I have put through it except for some very long oal hand loads which I dont carry anyways. HK makes a HK45 compact. They are a little pricey, but very very VERY good shooters.
idk if its been mentioned (didnt read all the pages) but the H.K.
HK 45 is very nice and its what I carry, that or a springer GI 1911 that has been totally reliable with everything I have put through it except for some very long oal hand loads which I dont carry anyways. HK makes a HK45 compact. They are a little pricey, but very very VERY good shooters.
Re: Best carry .45
Sig 220 Carry! Shoots great for the most part out of the box (takes about 500 rds to get it to start breaking in i just put bullets in the mag and shot it though). I ccw with it everyday and love it.
Sig 220 Carry! Shoots great for the most part out of the box (takes about 500 rds to get it to start breaking in i just put bullets in the mag and shot it though). I ccw with it everyday and love it.
Re: Best carry .45
This is an extremely subjective topic, but I'll chime in.
For me it is a G21, for several reasons:
1. I'm tall and it's very easy to conceal regardless of the time of year.
2. It holds 14 rounds.
3. It is lighter than my 1911.
4. I don't get angry when I sweat on it or it gets scratched.
Having said all that, I'd much rather carry my 1911, but I'm too rough on my equipment.
As for accuracy, features, feel, and aesthetics the 1911 wins going away.
As for reliability, they're the same (with the right mags for the 1911).
Conclusion: the G21 is the right package for me for the reasons mentioned above.
This is an extremely subjective topic, but I'll chime in.
For me it is a G21, for several reasons:
1. I'm tall and it's very easy to conceal regardless of the time of year.
2. It holds 14 rounds.
3. It is lighter than my 1911.
4. I don't get angry when I sweat on it or it gets scratched.
Having said all that, I'd much rather carry my 1911, but I'm too rough on my equipment.
As for accuracy, features, feel, and aesthetics the 1911 wins going away.
As for reliability, they're the same (with the right mags for the 1911).
Conclusion: the G21 is the right package for me for the reasons mentioned above.
Re: Best carry .45
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ToddM</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
If you're only shooting 2K rounds a year, it's not me that needs to get their ass to the range, that's a couple of afternoons or a single combat course. </div></div>
I said 2k rounds <span style="font-style: italic">this summer alone</span>. And I'm not sure what a "combat course" is, but you're right, 2k rounds sounds like 3-4 days at the range if you're into that sort of things.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ToddM</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Don't pretend to know how I train, that's just an initial test for me. I shoot combat courses and matches on a regular basis, probalby 10K+ a year, but if the gun can't pass that first test, there's no point in carrying it or taking it to a course.
</div></div>
I never did. I wasn't writing to you.
Reading comprehension is key, sir.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ToddM</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
If you're only shooting 2K rounds a year, it's not me that needs to get their ass to the range, that's a couple of afternoons or a single combat course. </div></div>
I said 2k rounds <span style="font-style: italic">this summer alone</span>. And I'm not sure what a "combat course" is, but you're right, 2k rounds sounds like 3-4 days at the range if you're into that sort of things.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ToddM</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Don't pretend to know how I train, that's just an initial test for me. I shoot combat courses and matches on a regular basis, probalby 10K+ a year, but if the gun can't pass that first test, there's no point in carrying it or taking it to a course.
</div></div>
I never did. I wasn't writing to you.
Reading comprehension is key, sir.
Re: Best carry .45
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Having said all that, I'd much rather carry my 1911, but I'm too rough on my equipment.</div></div>
It's a tool, use it. If it wears out, buy another.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Having said all that, I'd much rather carry my 1911, but I'm too rough on my equipment.</div></div>
It's a tool, use it. If it wears out, buy another.
Re: Best carry .45
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EddieNFL</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Having said all that, I'd much rather carry my 1911, but I'm too rough on my equipment.</div></div>
It's a tool, use it. If it wears out, buy another.
</div></div>
I could do that, but I'd rather buy a $600 G21 than fork out $1.3k+ for a quality 1911.
To each his own...I guess.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EddieNFL</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Having said all that, I'd much rather carry my 1911, but I'm too rough on my equipment.</div></div>
It's a tool, use it. If it wears out, buy another.
</div></div>
I could do that, but I'd rather buy a $600 G21 than fork out $1.3k+ for a quality 1911.
To each his own...I guess.
Re: Best carry .45
I carry a stainles Springfield Champion that I picked up used for about $650. I replaced the stupid captured spring and guide rod with a standard one, and it works great.
I carry a stainles Springfield Champion that I picked up used for about $650. I replaced the stupid captured spring and guide rod with a standard one, and it works great.
Re: Best carry .45
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jmb1911</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EddieNFL</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Having said all that, I'd much rather carry my 1911, but I'm too rough on my equipment.</div></div>
It's a tool, use it. If it wears out, buy another.
</div></div>
I could do that, but I'd rather buy a $600 G21 than fork out $1.3k+ for a quality 1911.
To each his own...I guess. </div></div>
I'd rather carry whatever works best for me...regardless of cost.
Some years ago, Florida repealed the motorcycle helmet law. I was discussing this with a friend and he said, "I always thought you should spend as much for a helmet as your brain was worth."
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jmb1911</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EddieNFL</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Having said all that, I'd much rather carry my 1911, but I'm too rough on my equipment.</div></div>
It's a tool, use it. If it wears out, buy another.
</div></div>
I could do that, but I'd rather buy a $600 G21 than fork out $1.3k+ for a quality 1911.
To each his own...I guess. </div></div>
I'd rather carry whatever works best for me...regardless of cost.
Some years ago, Florida repealed the motorcycle helmet law. I was discussing this with a friend and he said, "I always thought you should spend as much for a helmet as your brain was worth."
Re: Best carry .45
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AZ EMS Pilot</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I carry a stainles Springfield Champion that I picked up used for about $650. I replaced the stupid captured spring and guide rod with a standard one, and it works great. </div></div>
Yea, verily. The Kimber Pro Carry HD that I posted above was already worked over by a smith and bobbed. Bought used for $800. Runs like a champ.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AZ EMS Pilot</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I carry a stainles Springfield Champion that I picked up used for about $650. I replaced the stupid captured spring and guide rod with a standard one, and it works great. </div></div>
Yea, verily. The Kimber Pro Carry HD that I posted above was already worked over by a smith and bobbed. Bought used for $800. Runs like a champ.
Re: Best carry .45
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EddieNFL</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jmb1911</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EddieNFL</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Having said all that, I'd much rather carry my 1911, but I'm too rough on my equipment.</div></div>
It's a tool, use it. If it wears out, buy another.
</div></div>
I could do that, but I'd rather buy a $600 G21 than fork out $1.3k+ for a quality 1911.
To each his own...I guess. </div></div>
I'd rather carry whatever works best for me...regardless of cost.
Some years ago, Florida repealed the motorcycle helmet law. I was discussing this with a friend and he said, "I always thought you should spend as much for a helmet as your brain was worth." </div></div>
I see it as a Toyota v. Ferrari argument.
You're welcome to think and practice otherwise. You're absolutely not wrong. I just don't share your opinion.
Best-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EddieNFL</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jmb1911</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EddieNFL</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Having said all that, I'd much rather carry my 1911, but I'm too rough on my equipment.</div></div>
It's a tool, use it. If it wears out, buy another.
</div></div>
I could do that, but I'd rather buy a $600 G21 than fork out $1.3k+ for a quality 1911.
To each his own...I guess. </div></div>
I'd rather carry whatever works best for me...regardless of cost.
Some years ago, Florida repealed the motorcycle helmet law. I was discussing this with a friend and he said, "I always thought you should spend as much for a helmet as your brain was worth." </div></div>
I see it as a Toyota v. Ferrari argument.
You're welcome to think and practice otherwise. You're absolutely not wrong. I just don't share your opinion.
Best-
Re: Best carry .45
SIG 220
double action first pull, like a revolver, no safety to fumble with or stick in your side, can carry "mexican style" if needed, mine has been 100% reliable, 4000+ rds, original gun, zero modifications, still shoots coconut groups at 25 yards, can keep under pillow without fear of accidently discharging, a zillion holsters, magazines, available.
Mine is the older model, no light rail. its high spped, low drag at its finest imo...
SIG 220
double action first pull, like a revolver, no safety to fumble with or stick in your side, can carry "mexican style" if needed, mine has been 100% reliable, 4000+ rds, original gun, zero modifications, still shoots coconut groups at 25 yards, can keep under pillow without fear of accidently discharging, a zillion holsters, magazines, available.
Mine is the older model, no light rail. its high spped, low drag at its finest imo...
Re: Best carry .45
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jmb1911</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I see it as a Toyota v. Ferrari argument.
You're welcome to think and practice otherwise. You're absolutely not wrong. I just don't share your opinion.
Best- </div></div>
I think you missed my point. IMO a person should carry whatever is available that works best for him, regardless of brand or price. Not carrying the best choice for fear of damage is, IMO a mistake. If multiple firearms fit you well, you're fortunate, but I believe the old adage, "Fear the man that owns one gun."
I drive a Toyota. I believe they're more reliable than Ferraris, but I would have one if I hit the Lotto.
Regards,
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jmb1911</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I see it as a Toyota v. Ferrari argument.
You're welcome to think and practice otherwise. You're absolutely not wrong. I just don't share your opinion.
Best- </div></div>
I think you missed my point. IMO a person should carry whatever is available that works best for him, regardless of brand or price. Not carrying the best choice for fear of damage is, IMO a mistake. If multiple firearms fit you well, you're fortunate, but I believe the old adage, "Fear the man that owns one gun."
I drive a Toyota. I believe they're more reliable than Ferraris, but I would have one if I hit the Lotto.
Regards,
Re: Best carry .45
A carry gun is tool, period. It's no different than a carpenter spending big $ on a saw, or a geologist spending $400 on a transit (overgrown compass). If you won't use/carry it because you are worried about scratching it etc. it's worthless for it's intended purpose. If it's a safe queen then it's perfect. Most people won't use expensive guns. All you have to do is look at the for sale boards to find tons of custom rifles, handguns etc. that are not even broke in yet much less used. On that note the whole BS about having to put 500 rounds through a gun to break it in is just that. If it's properly fit and finished it will run out of the box, if it needs 500 rounds to smooth the parts out, it was just built piss poor.
However, you don't have to spend that much, as long as it runs 100% and you train with it you are good to go. Spending a lot of money does not ensure that, but it probably increases the chances. You can easily spend $600 on a 1911 and take it to the range and it may run 100%, or it may go to a shop 3x.
If you can take it out of the box, down to the range, and run 750 rounds of FMJ through it and 250 rounds of hollow points without a single failure of ANY kind it's ready for more demanding training. If it won't then you change mags, find a smith to adjust it, etc. and go to the range with 1000 rounds again, till it does. If it's costs $250 or $3500 I don't care but if I'm going to carry it, it will past that test at a bare minimum before I will start to train with it.
Money should not be the main consideration. Spending a lot does not ensure quality or reliability, only field testing and rounds down range will do that. It's nice to think that the higher end guns are put together with more attention and better quality parts reducing the possibility of a failure, be it part breakage or poor fitting. It's like helmets, they all pass the snell/dot test, but you can bet that among them there are differences in their impact performance, and one would hope the higher dollar helmets do fare better. It's just easier to test guns to make sure!
A carry gun is tool, period. It's no different than a carpenter spending big $ on a saw, or a geologist spending $400 on a transit (overgrown compass). If you won't use/carry it because you are worried about scratching it etc. it's worthless for it's intended purpose. If it's a safe queen then it's perfect. Most people won't use expensive guns. All you have to do is look at the for sale boards to find tons of custom rifles, handguns etc. that are not even broke in yet much less used. On that note the whole BS about having to put 500 rounds through a gun to break it in is just that. If it's properly fit and finished it will run out of the box, if it needs 500 rounds to smooth the parts out, it was just built piss poor.
However, you don't have to spend that much, as long as it runs 100% and you train with it you are good to go. Spending a lot of money does not ensure that, but it probably increases the chances. You can easily spend $600 on a 1911 and take it to the range and it may run 100%, or it may go to a shop 3x.
If you can take it out of the box, down to the range, and run 750 rounds of FMJ through it and 250 rounds of hollow points without a single failure of ANY kind it's ready for more demanding training. If it won't then you change mags, find a smith to adjust it, etc. and go to the range with 1000 rounds again, till it does. If it's costs $250 or $3500 I don't care but if I'm going to carry it, it will past that test at a bare minimum before I will start to train with it.
Money should not be the main consideration. Spending a lot does not ensure quality or reliability, only field testing and rounds down range will do that. It's nice to think that the higher end guns are put together with more attention and better quality parts reducing the possibility of a failure, be it part breakage or poor fitting. It's like helmets, they all pass the snell/dot test, but you can bet that among them there are differences in their impact performance, and one would hope the higher dollar helmets do fare better. It's just easier to test guns to make sure!
Re: Best carry .45
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: iron prowler</div><div class="ubbcode-body">SIG 220
double action first pull, like a revolver, no safety to fumble with or stick in your side, can carry "mexican style" if needed, mine has been 100% reliable, 4000+ rds, original gun, zero modifications, still shoots coconut groups at 25 yards, can keep under pillow without fear of accidently discharging, a zillion holsters, magazines, available.
Mine is the older model, no light rail. its high spped, low drag at its finest imo... </div></div>
Gotta agree with all of this. The P220 is an AWESOME pistol. I had the stainless steel version with the 8-round mag and useless rail. It was a tad heavy, but it would flat-out shoot! I regret ever having to sell it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: iron prowler</div><div class="ubbcode-body">SIG 220
double action first pull, like a revolver, no safety to fumble with or stick in your side, can carry "mexican style" if needed, mine has been 100% reliable, 4000+ rds, original gun, zero modifications, still shoots coconut groups at 25 yards, can keep under pillow without fear of accidently discharging, a zillion holsters, magazines, available.
Mine is the older model, no light rail. its high spped, low drag at its finest imo... </div></div>
Gotta agree with all of this. The P220 is an AWESOME pistol. I had the stainless steel version with the 8-round mag and useless rail. It was a tad heavy, but it would flat-out shoot! I regret ever having to sell it.
Re: Best carry .45
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's like helmets, they all pass the snell/dot test, but you can bet that among them there are differences in their impact performance, and one would hope the higher dollar helmets do fare better. It's just easier to test guns to make sure!
</div></div>
Crash test dummies help. I see 'em everyday. Most are testing the impact resistance of their skulls.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's like helmets, they all pass the snell/dot test, but you can bet that among them there are differences in their impact performance, and one would hope the higher dollar helmets do fare better. It's just easier to test guns to make sure!
</div></div>
Crash test dummies help. I see 'em everyday. Most are testing the impact resistance of their skulls.
Re: Best carry .45
I like the SIG Revolution Carry. Commander length top end with Officer size frame. Mine has been stone reliable with over 600 rds of various types of ammo. Zero failures to go bang, accurate too.
I like the SIG Revolution Carry. Commander length top end with Officer size frame. Mine has been stone reliable with over 600 rds of various types of ammo. Zero failures to go bang, accurate too.
Re: Best carry .45
Somebody's signature here says "a .22 in your pocket is better than a .45 in your safe", and I have to concur. Whatever you decide, make certain that along with good leather it makes for a comfortable CCW package, and it is a pistol you shoot often and accurately. I like the Sig 229 in .40 as well as any 1911 fullsize or commander. The Ed Brown bobtail is a nice feature that can be added to most for not too much $.
Somebody's signature here says "a .22 in your pocket is better than a .45 in your safe", and I have to concur. Whatever you decide, make certain that along with good leather it makes for a comfortable CCW package, and it is a pistol you shoot often and accurately. I like the Sig 229 in .40 as well as any 1911 fullsize or commander. The Ed Brown bobtail is a nice feature that can be added to most for not too much $.
Re: Best carry .45
You will NOT be disappointed with a Sig! I fell in love with them after the first round out of the barrel! GSR or P220 I love them both! I buy a sig when I want a semi and dont look back.
You will NOT be disappointed with a Sig! I fell in love with them after the first round out of the barrel! GSR or P220 I love them both! I buy a sig when I want a semi and dont look back.
Re: Best carry .45
Use an XD45c for daily carry that had a grip reduction done by Boresight Solutions. Thing functions 100% and has a 10 round mag capacity.
Use an XD45c for daily carry that had a grip reduction done by Boresight Solutions. Thing functions 100% and has a 10 round mag capacity.
Re: Best carry .45
After seeing a DL Sports AR rifle I would look into his .45.
After seeing a DL Sports AR rifle I would look into his .45.
Re: Best carry .45
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EddieNFL</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This discussion will never end. There is no one "best." </div></div>
Yes their is one "best" its the one that you feel the MOST comfortable and have the most faith in/with.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EddieNFL</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This discussion will never end. There is no one "best." </div></div>
Yes their is one "best" its the one that you feel the MOST comfortable and have the most faith in/with.
Re: Best carry .45
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ubet</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EddieNFL</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This discussion will never end. There is no one "best." </div></div>
Yes their is one "best" its the one that you feel the MOST comfortable and have the most faith in/with. </div></div>
As I stated earlier in the conversation. Answering the original question, there is no "best."
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ubet</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EddieNFL</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This discussion will never end. There is no one "best." </div></div>
Yes their is one "best" its the one that you feel the MOST comfortable and have the most faith in/with. </div></div>
As I stated earlier in the conversation. Answering the original question, there is no "best."
Re: Best carry .45
I carry a kimber TLE/RL II it did have a FTF problem until I polished the feed ramp. 2000+/- round scene no issues. I like the full-size 1911s, just get good leather. I use a Matt Del Fatti IWB and his belt. FWIW best leather I have ever used.
I carry a kimber TLE/RL II it did have a FTF problem until I polished the feed ramp. 2000+/- round scene no issues. I like the full-size 1911s, just get good leather. I use a Matt Del Fatti IWB and his belt. FWIW best leather I have ever used.
Re: Best carry .45
One that goes bang every time and shoots where you aim it!
One that goes bang every time and shoots where you aim it!
Re: Best carry .45
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Adam Pini</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Im a huge fan of Springfield's champion 1911 <span style="font-weight: bold">its just like a commander</span> </div></div>
No it's not. It's shorter and has a bull barrel (deviations from Browning's design).
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Adam Pini</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Im a huge fan of Springfield's champion 1911 <span style="font-weight: bold">its just like a commander</span> </div></div>
No it's not. It's shorter and has a bull barrel (deviations from Browning's design).
Re: Best carry .45
A Nighthawk Custom would work nicely!
A Nighthawk Custom would work nicely!
Re: Best carry .45
H&k P9s unfortunately they dont make them any more even when they did it was impossible to find mags. So Sig P220 is a good choice. I'v had Glock 30 not as accurate. I ve had several 1911 guns mostly Colts some very nice with a lot of work on them and my current 1911 a Kimber SIS Govt which is built like a series 70 so its not a pain to take apart to clean.
H&k P9s unfortunately they dont make them any more even when they did it was impossible to find mags. So Sig P220 is a good choice. I'v had Glock 30 not as accurate. I ve had several 1911 guns mostly Colts some very nice with a lot of work on them and my current 1911 a Kimber SIS Govt which is built like a series 70 so its not a pain to take apart to clean.
Re: Best carry .45
Some Advice please. I carry a Colt combat elite and hardly notice it on my side. I use a Strong side holster which is strait up and down and would like to change for something angled that will allow me to access it quicker. Any suggestions?
Goyo
Some Advice please. I carry a Colt combat elite and hardly notice it on my side. I use a Strong side holster which is strait up and down and would like to change for something angled that will allow me to access it quicker. Any suggestions?
Goyo
Re: Best carry .45
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Goyo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Some Advice please. I carry a Colt combat elite and hardly notice it on my side. I use a Strong side holster which is strait up and down and would like to change for something angled that will allow me to access it quicker. Any suggestions?
Goyo </div></div>
You might try the smoething like the Nighthawk Companion, or any other makers that offers similar versions. I carry a full-size as well, using an IWB. I know it's there, but I don't find it uncomfortable, even after 14-16 hours. IMO, the IWB is the most concealable on-the-belt option.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Goyo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Some Advice please. I carry a Colt combat elite and hardly notice it on my side. I use a Strong side holster which is strait up and down and would like to change for something angled that will allow me to access it quicker. Any suggestions?
Goyo </div></div>
You might try the smoething like the Nighthawk Companion, or any other makers that offers similar versions. I carry a full-size as well, using an IWB. I know it's there, but I don't find it uncomfortable, even after 14-16 hours. IMO, the IWB is the most concealable on-the-belt option.
Re: Best carry .45
Para ordanance P-12.....Plenty of extra rounds if your not the best shot.
Para ordanance P-12.....Plenty of extra rounds if your not the best shot.
Re: Best carry .45
Todd,
Great post. I too feel that when you spend this kind of money for a quality gun it should function straight out of the box.
I've had high end production 1911's with a slide to frame fit so tight that it wouldn't even return to battery upon firing. "break in" period was required!
Thanks for the tips.
Respectfully,
Bill
Todd,
Great post. I too feel that when you spend this kind of money for a quality gun it should function straight out of the box.
I've had high end production 1911's with a slide to frame fit so tight that it wouldn't even return to battery upon firing. "break in" period was required!
Thanks for the tips.
Respectfully,
Bill
Re: Best carry .45
Taurus pt 145 pro
Taurus pt 145 pro
Re: Best carry .45
Milt Sparks seems to make some good holsters and I believe Brownells keeps an inside the pants model in stock.
Milt Sparks seems to make some good holsters and I believe Brownells keeps an inside the pants model in stock.
Re: Best carry .45
heres mine!
heres mine!
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