I don't have enough experience using high end optics to know the answer to this. On a multi caliber platform like the dta, ai or blaser r93 tac2 where you have the ability to change calibers while using one scope for every caliber, you have the ability to zero the rifle with each caliber and simply adjust the zeros for any caliber you choose to put on. Obviously having a scope with very easy to use very stop like the March scopes is highly desirable in a situation like this. I've also heard premiers system is very quick and easy. My question is, out of all the too glass makers, which ones have the easiest(tool less) and quickest to use zero stops. Specifically I'm looking at s&b 5-25, march 3-24, premier 5-25, kahles 6-24, luepold mark 8, and nightforce atacr and beast. Thanks
Rifle Scopes Best zero stop?
- Thread starter generalzip
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Nobody???...
Nightforce, IMO.
THe new Leupold ZS on my MK8 6.5-20 SUCKS. THere is this collar that you tighten down once your zero is adjusted, then the cap slides down over the turret and collar into one of the notches in the collar, so you can't set it exactly where you want. In addition, if you bring the turret back down too hard the collar loosens and it becomes AFU.
S&B's ZS is ok on the 5-25x56 just gotta remember to not take the turret cap off when setting it... lol
I sent one of mk Leupold Mk4s in to have the turrets changed to M2 from M1 and it came back with what I think is Leupold's ZS solution for the older mk4s; just a tab on the cap and a fixed tab on the turret. Can't make more than one rotation on the elevation knob. sucks.
I think every scope requires tools to set the their respective ZSs; The NXS requires two allen wrenches to set but it is still the best IMO.
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I've never used a March scope so no SA on those, you say they're easy to set so maybe they' re the way to go?
If you're trying to use a single scope for many calibers, instead of leaving one minute or .3 mil under your zero I would just leave a little more, possibly 1.5 MOA or .5 mil available under your actual zero to account for the different calibers. Just my two cents, then again I'm not sure how big of a shift going from 308 to 300WM or 338 would present; I've never owned a multi-cal gun so not sure. .5 mils might not be enough, which would force you to bust out the allen wrenches again.
Maybe someone who has one of those high-speed barrel changer rifles can chime in of the zero POI shift of different calibers on the same platform.
Of course, you don't HAVE to use the zero stop if you don't want. Maybe a G2/HXX reticle equipped scope would be best on this setup so you don't have to worry about dialing so much?
I'm kinda going off on a tangent but hey
THe new Leupold ZS on my MK8 6.5-20 SUCKS. THere is this collar that you tighten down once your zero is adjusted, then the cap slides down over the turret and collar into one of the notches in the collar, so you can't set it exactly where you want. In addition, if you bring the turret back down too hard the collar loosens and it becomes AFU.
S&B's ZS is ok on the 5-25x56 just gotta remember to not take the turret cap off when setting it... lol
I sent one of mk Leupold Mk4s in to have the turrets changed to M2 from M1 and it came back with what I think is Leupold's ZS solution for the older mk4s; just a tab on the cap and a fixed tab on the turret. Can't make more than one rotation on the elevation knob. sucks.
I think every scope requires tools to set the their respective ZSs; The NXS requires two allen wrenches to set but it is still the best IMO.
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I've never used a March scope so no SA on those, you say they're easy to set so maybe they' re the way to go?
If you're trying to use a single scope for many calibers, instead of leaving one minute or .3 mil under your zero I would just leave a little more, possibly 1.5 MOA or .5 mil available under your actual zero to account for the different calibers. Just my two cents, then again I'm not sure how big of a shift going from 308 to 300WM or 338 would present; I've never owned a multi-cal gun so not sure. .5 mils might not be enough, which would force you to bust out the allen wrenches again.
Maybe someone who has one of those high-speed barrel changer rifles can chime in of the zero POI shift of different calibers on the same platform.
Of course, you don't HAVE to use the zero stop if you don't want. Maybe a G2/HXX reticle equipped scope would be best on this setup so you don't have to worry about dialing so much?
I'm kinda going off on a tangent but hey
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Did you mean the new mark 4 luepold 6.5-20? The mark 8 is 3.5-25 I believe
Yes, the new mark 4, not the 8. sorry about that
For easy adjustment I think Premier is best. It's tool less.
I hear March is stupid easy as well but I've never seen one.
I believe after these two, all scopes need tools to change the zero stop. (I could be wrong)
While Nightforce has a really solid zero stop, it isn't something thats easy to change and maintain a precise zero. Plainly, it's not a scope to move from rifle to rifle... or barrel to barrel, but give that I can almost get two Nightforces for the price of an S&B, that's ok, just get two Nightforces.
Of course this does not help you since this is about 1 rifle with multiple calibers. Then again maybe it does... you could run a good QD mount with two scopes and just switch out scopes with you switch out barrels?
My S&B zero stop with locking turrets is pretty easy to set as well. Same with my Steiner.
I hear March is stupid easy as well but I've never seen one.
I believe after these two, all scopes need tools to change the zero stop. (I could be wrong)
While Nightforce has a really solid zero stop, it isn't something thats easy to change and maintain a precise zero. Plainly, it's not a scope to move from rifle to rifle... or barrel to barrel, but give that I can almost get two Nightforces for the price of an S&B, that's ok, just get two Nightforces.
Of course this does not help you since this is about 1 rifle with multiple calibers. Then again maybe it does... you could run a good QD mount with two scopes and just switch out scopes with you switch out barrels?My S&B zero stop with locking turrets is pretty easy to set as well. Same with my Steiner.
+1 absolutely brillant zero stop and turret adjustments on the Premier Tacticals. Fast, easy, highly repeatable and totally idiot-proof. My only wish is that the zero stop was a full mil down, not 0.5. Why? Urban prone (90* cant) requires about 1.0 mil of down adjustment to correct to the 90* cant.
From personal experience SuB and Steiner are built into the turret cap. The zero stop is always a few clicks below zero in the first revolution.
If I understand the OP, he's looking at scopes that would allow him to set the ZS to any location, above or below zero, rather than re-zeroing the scope when it is moved from rig to rig. The SuB and Steiner style ZS would not work in this application.
The March ZS is soooo easy, and all you need is a quarter dollar to adjust it. I guess technically that's a tool but they're easier to find lying around than a 2.5 mm hex key or a blade screwdriver... If the scope was zeroed for one rifle, it could be removed from that rifle, the ZS backed off, the scope sighted in, and the ZS set to the elevation, regardless of the position of the turret cap. Moving it back to the first rig would require un setting the ZS, dialing the elevation back to 0 (in the correct revolution, keep good notes) and setting the ZS again.
The Bushnell ZS on the ERS/XRS can be set to any location but they can be a bitch to get set.
Get the March.
You'll love the scope, too.
Joe
If I understand the OP, he's looking at scopes that would allow him to set the ZS to any location, above or below zero, rather than re-zeroing the scope when it is moved from rig to rig. The SuB and Steiner style ZS would not work in this application.
The March ZS is soooo easy, and all you need is a quarter dollar to adjust it. I guess technically that's a tool but they're easier to find lying around than a 2.5 mm hex key or a blade screwdriver... If the scope was zeroed for one rifle, it could be removed from that rifle, the ZS backed off, the scope sighted in, and the ZS set to the elevation, regardless of the position of the turret cap. Moving it back to the first rig would require un setting the ZS, dialing the elevation back to 0 (in the correct revolution, keep good notes) and setting the ZS again.
The Bushnell ZS on the ERS/XRS can be set to any location but they can be a bitch to get set.
Get the March.
You'll love the scope, too.
Joe
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I agree the march and premier have the best zero stops. How would you compare the march to the premier as far as a combat optic? Small eyebox is a pet peeve of mine. Not to mention the lower light transmission at higher mag. Of course the size and weight of it very well might outweigh it's negatives. March is also a good bit cheaper even with the illumination.
I don't find the March 3-24x42 FFP eyebox to be fussy until 18x or so, about where it starts to get dark in less than bright sunlight.
The glass at lower mag (3-12x or so) is just fantastic... bright, clear, neutral, better then the SuB 5-25 I owned and the Steiner 5-25 I now own (but they're sure not bad, either) but that's to my eye, I'm no expert.
Premiers have proven themselves in the field. March scopes have not served in the military and I personally can't speak to the beating they'll take.
Joe
The glass at lower mag (3-12x or so) is just fantastic... bright, clear, neutral, better then the SuB 5-25 I owned and the Steiner 5-25 I now own (but they're sure not bad, either
) but that's to my eye, I'm no expert.Premiers have proven themselves in the field. March scopes have not served in the military and I personally can't speak to the beating they'll take.
Joe
Premiers are built tough. If you ever hold one in you hands, you know it is a quality piece. It is beastly on construction and feels over engineered. Kind of like they expect you to beat people with it and then still work.
The eye box on Premiers are extremely forgiving. I've heard the exact opposite with March.
But the weight difference is substantial.
The MK6 zero stop does require an allen wrench for a single set screw, very easy to set however, it is a solid design. The ability to set the zero stop below the zero mark on the turret works great for me, POI difference between suppressed and not. Steel targets at 200,300,400,500 meters.
MK6 Zero Stop POI change reference - YouTube
The Premier ZS is truly tool free, great turrets and great ZS as well.
MK6 Zero Stop POI change reference - YouTube
The Premier ZS is truly tool free, great turrets and great ZS as well.
You truly can't beat the March not only for stupid simple zero stop, but also for a quality, rugged scope that can handle multicaliber abuse with 28 mil elevation and 2/3rds the size of their competitors!
Phreak what supressor were you using? I'm curious because I just ordered both a mark 6 and a thunder beast 30ba.
I would just adjust me zero stop for the lowest setting required for the different calibers.
But I wonder how much difference there would be with a 100 yard zero. I was talking to a friend and running .308, .300 WinMag, and .338 Lapua through JBM< and was interested to see that the 200 yard come up was only a couple of tenths of a mil.
But I wonder how much difference there would be with a 100 yard zero. I was talking to a friend and running .308, .300 WinMag, and .338 Lapua through JBM< and was interested to see that the 200 yard come up was only a couple of tenths of a mil.
I don't know which one is "best", it depends on what you want. Some zero stops are at zero or a couple clicks below zero, like S&B's, and non-adjustable. Others allow you to adjust the stop below zero for shots closer than your zero range. For example, the NF zero stop allows you to choose where the stop is set and you can adjust it to your needs. If you don't dial and shoot closer than your zero range you may be able to use a fixed zero stop like S&B's.
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