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Without seeing the stock and stud, it appears you have pulled the threads out of your stock. I think that you can fix it it you rough the inside of the hole, then put a light (very light) coat of grease or mold release on the stud threads, fill the hole with a two-part epoxy and insert the stud. Let the epoxy dry, and you should have a good repair. The mold release is to allow for the removal of the stud in the future.
some will probably reject my idea but.... If that were mine i would take a small drill bit and drill in the hole at an angle about 4-6 times around the inside of it. then epoxy the stud back in. The small holes in the hole will give the epoxy a little more to bite to.
get a backer.....from the inside of the barrel channel counter sink a hole large enough for a drywall backer with teeth that will engage the threads of the stud.......epoxy the backer.
lucky you got a stock that will not float because of the high density construction ...something like a foam filled stock would not take the above lash-up......just sayin
Remove the barreled action from the stock. Install the front stud and see if you have enough room to install a nut on the back side of the bedded nut. I just looked at my A4 and there is enough.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body">get a backer.....from the inside of the barrel channel counter sink a hole large enough for a drywall backer with teeth that will engage the threads of the stud.......epoxy the backer.
lucky you got a stock that will not float because of the high density construction ...something like a foam filled stock would not take the above lash-up......just sayin </div></div> B&C stocks hold up just fine when sling studs and flush cups are installed with this method.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: fastbs</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body">get a backer.....from the inside of the barrel channel counter sink a hole large enough for a drywall backer with teeth that will engage the threads of the stud.......epoxy the backer.
lucky you got a stock that will not float because of the high density construction ...something like a foam filled stock would not take the above lash-up......just sayin </div></div> B&C stocks hold up just fine when sling studs and flush cups are installed with this method.
the backer nut is also a great idea.</div></div>
no...i shall not throw the bullshit flag, cause.....one would have to employ a metric shit-ton of epoxy.......guess some need a cause celeb to whittle away the day....
Hey...wait! I saw Bolt and 427 above. I know those two guys. They're studs. Can I be a bi-pod stud too?
In large mammal physiology I learned about bi-pedal locomotion. Being from the country I'd never heard of that before.
Except I don't want no part of them slings. I've heard about that stuff before. That's too kinky for me. We don't do that stuff over here. Y'all go ahead though. I'll just be a bi-pod stud without the sling thing. Okay?
p.s. No butt spikes either. And a backer nut and a T-nut? Keep that to yourselves.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 427Cobra</div><div class="ubbcode-body">From what i see some idiot put a wood screw sling in, what you need is a T-nut installed to hold the correct machine screw sling stud for the bipod.
I believe I've got T-nuts and studs at home. If you haven't ordered the ones linked above I'd be happy to send you a few for free (had to buy 100 or so from the supplier I used
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: monteboy84</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I believe I've got T-nuts and studs at home. If you haven't ordered the ones linked above I'd be happy to send you a few for free (had to buy 100 or so from the supplier I used