Gunsmithing Bore sight question?

HornDog87

Oh lord he be treadin!
Full Member
Minuteman
Supporter
Jul 9, 2018
551
151
Narnia
I recently sold a schmidt&bender pm2 and acquired a leupold mark 5, due to being relatively knew to long range precision shooting the Schmidt h27 reticle and turret is just too much shit to take in.
My point is I wasted way too many rounds trying to get my zero and was wondering if anyone knew of any solid bore sighting lazers out there. That way I'm not emptying my bank account for Hornady black or fgmm. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Semper fi
Horner
 
At What distance were you bore sighting? I typically get on at 25 or 50 then move outward. Should only take 5-7 rounds.

haven’t seen a laser that’s day light visible so can’t help there. I tried a few different cheap ones so take that with a grain of salt.
 
nn8734

Ive usually gone straight for 100yrd as I can normally get on paper in the first three. Didn't seem to be the case with that schmidt pm2, I've used the cheaper cartridge style bore sight.
However I noticed when I'd adjust the turrets to sight the reticle on the lazer, I could see the lazer move so I couldn't get a solid idea where to sight.
I'll give the 25-50 zero a try then move from there ?

Semper fi
Horner
 
nn8734

Ive usually gone straight for 100yrd as I can normally get on paper in the first three. Didn't seem to be the case with that schmidt pm2, I've used the cheaper cartridge style bore sight.
However I noticed when I'd adjust the turrets to sight the reticle on the lazer, I could see the lazer move so I couldn't get a solid idea where to sight.
I'll give the 25-50 zero a try then move from there ?

Semper fi
Horner

Sounds good, brother.
O/T but you get your SR25 issues sorted out?
 
What rifle are you shooting? I've used the Wheeler Bore Sighter but have found this to be much easier and quicker. Remove the bolt (assuming a bolt action) and look down the bore at your target, adjust the rifle until you are looking at the center of the target. Then adjust your scope so that the cross hairs are also on the target center. That should put you on paper and from there just do the math to fine tune your zero. Good luck!
 
With a bolt gun where one can simply sight down the bore I find lasers useless. I do have an old Leupold collimator that I use to get the turrets close, then boresight at 25.

I, too, used to go to 100 and sometimes had quick success, but problems over time just led me to go short and then stretch it out.
 
95% of the time I can get on an 8.5x11 piece of paper at 100 yards on the first shot simply by looking down the bore and moving the cross hair to the spot where the bore is pointing. It baffles me how there is a market for such a wide selection of bore sighting tools when this method is so simple and works so well.
 
nn8734
Yeah brother man, it seems as though the sr25 mag was the culprit. I bought some magpul m118 mags and I believe the spring tension was just to much and drug the round across the feed lips. She's running like a top end now. ?

Semper fi
Horner
 
Powerspc

I just purchased a lmt mws from Jared91 on the forum and Im going to be using the mark 5 on that bad chicken. It's just a pain in the ass to me to disassemble and balance the rifle and guesstimate if Im close after adjusting.

Semper fi
Horner
 
Wanna shoot it, mordamer, 2abaca I'm going to give the 25 yrd sight in a go then move to 100yrd. Much appreciated on the input and suggestions gents! Be good be safe!

Semper fi
Horner
 
nn8734
Yeah brother man, it seems as though the sr25 mag was the culprit. I bought some magpul m118 mags and I believe the spring tension was just to much and drug the round across the feed lips. She's running like a top end now. ?

Semper fi
Horner

Fuck yea, man - glad to hear. I know id be pissed if mine started mis-behaving.
??
 
  • Like
Reactions: HornDog87
I have a Site Lite SL-500. It has a daylight visible green laser. It works fine for bore sighting.
I’ve used it several times for changing scopes. That’s where it really shines. Note where the dot is in the reticle. Swap scope. Move dot to same place in new reticle. Usually off by 1-2 clicks in either direction.
 
Oh hot damn $219 for a bore slighter is pretty steep! Never thought they would get up in price that much. However Dustin I appreciate the recommendation, might be something my buddy would be willing to buy as he has multiple scopes.

Semper fi
Horner
 
It’s the only one I could find that was usable in the daylight. Also, I had a cabelas gift card that I couldn’t figure out what to waste it on. A $200 laser bore sighter seemed like as good of a waste as anything. It’s super bright and seems like it’ll last me forever. Plus I mount a lot of scopes for customers with it.
 
I have a cheap trick that makes the old bore sighting method MUCH more precise. I've done it on 12 rifles now and it has gotten me extremely close every time at 100yds!

1) Remove the firing pin assembly from your bolt so you can look through the firing pin hole.

2) Insert bolt in the receiver but leave it all the way open.

3) Put a piece of brass with no primer in the chamber

It is much more precise using the FP hole and flash hole than just looking down the bore and can be done on AR platforms if you make sure not to push the bolt forwards.

****(on an AR, if you have the pin holding carrier into the carrier with no firing pin, it can lock itself up if you push the carrier all the way forwards)*******
 
If I've got a spotter available (sometimes I'll snag an RSO) I first prefer to just pick out a piece of shit on the berm behind the targets (or put a clay pigeon out there...
Long as it's dry out the splash is easy to spot, takes only one or two shots to get walked onto the spot, then right onto the paper.
 
Wannashootit unfortunately the range I frequent is a self type and I go so early, there is no one to spot me. Hence the need for solid bore sighting methods.
 
On a bolt or AR, when you look through the bore, you see two rings, actually three, the chamber, beginning of the bore and the end of the bore, you simply "place" in ascending order the rings to have a good indicator of center.

Although he couldn't do the above
Watched a guy last week sling 60 rounds down range at 100 with a 30-30, kept telling him-go to the 25 first. His cheap rings loosened at the end, so back to Walmart--

Same day, another with a 300WM, 40 rounds
 
as mentioned, bore sighting is the easiest way to get CLOSE on paper. depending on what you shoot, you can get a real close circle which will correspond to a 200-250yrds mark. Example: I shoot mostly 6.5x55. I boresight at 32yrds and then put in usually 2-3 rounds at that 32yrds target while adjusting my scope (windage/elevation based on a 200yrds scope gradation (lets say its a DOA scope)). So, after my 32yrds target is dead center nuts with scopes 200yrds mark - I move target to 100 and my center cross hair is within 2 inches usually of a bullseye. At which point - you place few more shots to get it dead on at 100.
That is how I do it. If you get a boresighter - get a a GREEN one - as red one will suck depending on your backing... I have a private range so I can do whatever... one way or another, if it took you more than 10shots to start cloverleafing at 100 and dead nuts center - you are doing something wrong.
and then you have to consider max magnification depending if you are FFP or SFP - so, if scope will have to be set at MAX magnification and you have a 60x scope - well, crap I written above will NOT work as you will be paying hell to boresight (without a vise) 60x scope at 32yrds, if you will even be able to focus at all that close at max...