Brake help please!!!

[Legba]

Replacing the pads on my 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I ran into a problem. Got the driver side done with no problem. Doing the passenger side is where I ran into problem. I got the inside pad in but when I try to do the outside pad it sticks out to far and hits the rotor. Here is the problem. Sorry about the crap photos! This pic is the driver side. It measures 3/4 inch.

Here is the passenger side it measures 1 inch.

Here is the caliper. Where the rubber boot is where I took the measurements. I need the upper bracket to slide closer to the pistons. Don't know why I had this problem now when it went together fine on the driver side.

 

[152]

Re: Break help please!!!

brake .

 

[152]

Re: Break help please!!!

And that looks like my eye sight before cataract surgery Wed.

 

[152]

Re: Break help please!!!

Pm sent .

 

[noahmercy]

Re: Break help please!!!

I sure don't want to offend you, but it looks like the caliper piston on one side is compressed and the other side isn't. Make sure the pistons are compressed fully prior to installing pads and putting the calipers back on. Loosening the cap on the brake fluid reservoir is advisable prior to compressing, but make sure to tighten it back up immediately after compressing to prevent contamination...brake fluid is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture from the air) and doesn't work well with water in it.

Also, make sure you clean and lube the surfaces of the caliper that slide against one another...any old brake dust and pitting can cause brakes to drag, wearing out pads prematurely or even warping the rotors. It also hurts fuel economy and in extreme cases can cause vapor lock of the brakes (dat's a berry berry bad t'ing, mon).

 

[Bradu]

Re: Break help please!!!

It's kind of hard to tell by the pics but I'm guessing that the caliper pins are siezed up. Was one pas wore quite a bit more than the other? Take the two bolts out, use emery cloth to clean them up, then use soe brake caliper grease to prevent this from happening. If you did not take the bolts out on the other side and grease them, then I would suggest doing so.

 

[Legba]

Re: Break help please!!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Noah Mercy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I sure don't want to offend you, but it looks like the caliper piston on one side is compressed and the other side isn't. Make sure the pistons are compressed fully prior to installing pads and putting the calipers back on. Loosening the cap on the brake fluid reservoir is advisable prior to compressing, but make sure to tighten it back up immediately after compressing to prevent contamination...brake fluid is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture from the air) and doesn't work well with water in it

Also, make sure you clean and lube the surfaces of the caliper that slide against one another...any old brake dust and pitting can cause brakes to drag, wearing out pads prematurely or even warping the rotors. It also hurts fuel economy and in extreme cases can cause vapor lock of the brakes (dat's a berry berry bad t'ing, mon). </div></div>

No offense taken.
The inside pad is pressed far enough back that it doesn't touch the rotor when you put it on. Where the outside pad rides is the problem. The bracket connected to the piston housing by the two bolts with the rubber boots on them is to close to the rotor and wont allow the pad to clear the rotor. I can compress it with a 6" C clamp but I have to wait for a ride so I can get another clamp to do the other side. Probably have to wait till tomorrow. Should of took an hour to do!!!! Thanks for the info.

 

[Legba]

Re: Break help please!!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bradu</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's kind of hard to tell by the pics but I'm guessing that the caliper pins are siezed up. Was one pas wore quite a bit more than the other? Take the two bolts out, use emery cloth to clean them up, then use soe brake caliper grease to prevent this from happening. If you did not take the bolts out on the other side and grease them, then I would suggest doing so.

</div></div>

Yeah one pad was wore more than the other. I tried taking the bolts out but stopped due to them being really tight and the small space where I'm working in. Just might give that a go though. Thanks!

 

[Bradu]

Re: Break help please!!!

That definitely sounds like the problem, pull the rubber boot back and spray some penetrating oil on them and let them soak a few minutes. Then work the bolt back and forth until it frees up and clean them as mentioned earlier.

 

[lazy21]

Re: Break help please!!!

the way I normally do it is. Before I take the caliper off, I compress the piston back. I stick a pry bar in front of the old pad and pull towards you. Makes it alot easier and I Always pull the cap form the reservoir so it can release the pressure.

 

[The Mechanic]

Re: Break help please!!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bradu</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's kind of hard to tell by the pics but I'm guessing that the caliper pins are siezed up. Was one pas wore quite a bit more than the other? Take the two bolts out, use emery cloth to clean them up, then use soe brake caliper grease to prevent this from happening. If you did not take the bolts out on the other side and grease them, then I would suggest doing so.

</div></div>
^^^ This.
Common. You can see the rust on the caliper. If it is to bad to fix just head down to the local parts store and get yourself some "Loaded Calipers". You have to be careful doing this because you will need to bleed the brakes and that model should have ABS. This needs a simple but very specific bleeding procedure to make sure you get no air in the ABS unit or set an internal loss of pressure protection valve from "setting".

 

[Hink]

Re: Break help please!!!

The way I normally do it is to remove the caliper from the rotor as shown, then use a caliper piston compresson tool to push the piston back into the caliper bore.

Less risk of damage to the caliper and no risk of turning the piston in the bore. The tool is cheap -- do it right.

Listen to Mechanic - brakes are not something to look at doing half-assed.

 

[Legba]

Re: Break help please!!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bradu</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That definitely sounds like the problem, pull the rubber boot back and spray some penetrating oil on them and let them soak a few minutes. Then work the bolt back and forth until it frees up and clean them as mentioned earlier. </div></div>

You and Mechanic were dead on. Did what you said and found one of the guide pin bolts was bad. Took a little to get it out. Waiting on the new set to arrive at the auto parts store. Suppose to be in around 3pm. These new car repair manuals should come with a suicide hotline on the first page. Never had a brake job go this way. Thanks everybody for the help!

 

[The Mechanic]

Re: Break help please!!!

I have always used ACDelco Silicone Brake Lubricant Part number 10-4019. I use it on just about anything as it is a clear very thick lube that won't stain or get to thin a run when hot. You can not use to much on those pins. Use white lithium on the pads of the shoes on the backing plate for drum brakes.

Don't get any on the rotors. If you do a little carb or brake clean will get it off. Make sure you don't use it on anything that could gas out near any intake system. It will ruin O2 sensors. Don't use any silicone sealers on intakes or anything that could get into the air of the intake system.

One of the keys to manual bleeding brakes is just don't go all the way to the floor when bleeding. Here is a little help if you don't have $30,000 worth of scan tools like me. You can bleed an ABS unit (don't tell anyone I make 1 hour flag rate for this) If the basic brake system is bled well, all you do is drive in a SAFE area and go about 25 to 30 miles an hour and slam on the brake fast and hard. Let the system go into a four wheel skid. Do this 2 times and you have bled the ABS. Recheck fluid level and enjoy a nice, high, firm brake pedal.

 

[Bradu]

Re: Break help please!!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Legba</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bradu</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That definitely sounds like the problem, pull the rubber boot back and spray some penetrating oil on them and let them soak a few minutes. Then work the bolt back and forth until it frees up and clean them as mentioned earlier. </div></div>

You and Mechanic were dead on. Did what you said and found one of the guide pin bolts was bad. Took a little to get it out. Waiting on the new set to arrive at the auto parts store. Suppose to be in around 3pm. These new car repair manuals should come with a suicide hotline on the first page. Never had a brake job go this way. Thanks everybody for the help! </div></div>

If that's the worst brake job you have done then consider yourself lucky. After trying everything I could think of and about four hours of being pissed off, I had to use a plasma cutter to get rear drums off a dodge caravan.

 

[Legba]

Re: Break help please!!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bradu</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Legba</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bradu</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That definitely sounds like the problem, pull the rubber boot back and spray some penetrating oil on them and let them soak a few minutes. Then work the bolt back and forth until it frees up and clean them as mentioned earlier. </div></div>

You and Mechanic were dead on. Did what you said and found one of the guide pin bolts was bad. Took a little to get it out. Waiting on the new set to arrive at the auto parts store. Suppose to be in around 3pm. These new car repair manuals should come with a suicide hotline on the first page. Never had a brake job go this way. Thanks everybody for the help! </div></div>

If that's the worst brake job you have done then consider yourself lucky. After trying everything I could think of and about four hours of being pissed off, I had to use a plasma cutter to get rear drums off a dodge caravan. </div></div>
Had to buy a 3lbs sledge to get the rotors off. I beat the hell out of them with a regular hammer before I went and got the big hammer. Used a lot of the spray and let it soak awhile. Did the test drive and everything is good so far.

 

[Legba]

Re: Break help please!!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The Mechanic</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have always used ACDelco Silicone Brake Lubricant Part number 10-4019. I use it on just about anything as it is a clear very thick lube that won't stain or get to thin a run when hot. You can not use to much on those pins. Use white lithium on the pads of the shoes on the backing plate for drum brakes.

Don't get any on the rotors. If you do a little carb or brake clean will get it off. Make sure you don't use it on anything that could gas out near any intake system. It will ruin O2 sensors. Don't use any silicone sealers on intakes or anything that could get into the air of the intake system.

One of the keys to manual bleeding brakes is just don't go all the way to the floor when bleeding. Here is a little help if you don't have $30,000 worth of scan tools like me. You can bleed an ABS unit (don't tell anyone I make 1 hour flag rate for this) If the basic brake system is bled well, all you do is drive in a SAFE area and go about 25 to 30 miles an hour and slam on the brake fast and hard. Let the system go into a four wheel skid. Do this 2 times and you have bled the ABS. Recheck fluid level and enjoy a nice, high, firm brake pedal. </div></div>

I coated the pins. Went in a hell of a lot easier than taking them out. Did a regular bleed and everything is good. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Sean the Nailer]

Re: Break help please!!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The Mechanic</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
One of the keys to manual bleeding brakes is just don't go all the way to the floor when bleeding. Here is a little help if you don't have $30,000 worth of scan tools like me. You can bleed an ABS unit (don't tell anyone I make 1 hour flag rate for this) If the basic brake system is bled well, all you do is drive in a SAFE area and go about 25 to 30 miles an hour and slam on the brake fast and hard. Let the system go into a four wheel skid. Do this 2 times and you have bled the ABS. Recheck fluid level and enjoy a nice, high, firm brake pedal.</div></div>
Hey Mechanic,
Does this work on all ABS systems, or just the Jeep one in question here? Not derailing here, but that is one heck of a tip.

 

[The Mechanic]

Re: Break help please!!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sean the Nailer</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The Mechanic</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
One of the keys to manual bleeding brakes is just don't go all the way to the floor when bleeding. Here is a little help if you don't have $30,000 worth of scan tools like me. You can bleed an ABS unit (don't tell anyone I make 1 hour flag rate for this) If the basic brake system is bled well, all you do is drive in a SAFE area and go about 25 to 30 miles an hour and slam on the brake fast and hard. Let the system go into a four wheel skid. Do this 2 times and you have bled the ABS. Recheck fluid level and enjoy a nice, high, firm brake pedal.</div></div>
Hey Mechanic,
Does this work on all ABS systems, or just the Jeep one in question here? Not derailing here, but that is one heck of a tip. </div></div>
Works on all of them. Best way is to do this on a slippery surface like sand or dirt. Some vehicles can tell if you are on rough roads but you will know when you get a real good activation from the sound of the pump and feedback from the brake pedel.