Brake question for my 6.5CM

[bornhunter04]

I've been thinking about getting a badger mini FTE brake for my 6.5cm but am not sure on which size to get. Would the brake already opened up for .30 suffice or would it be too open for my 6.5mm bullets? Or should i get the .22 brake and have it opened up to fit the 6.5 bullets better?

The barrel is already threaded with a thread protector, since someday, i plan on putting a can on it but they'll be awhile yet. So I'm looking at brakes that are removable.

My google FU is failing me this morning.....

 

[shoot4fun]

One of my 6.5CM is braked with an APA LFB and the other has no brake. I can't give you a fair recoil comparison because the no brake rifle is also lighter by quite a bit. I will say the LFB is very efficient but extremely loud. Since you want to be able to remove it easily you might should look at the MRAD brake:


MRAD Muzzle Brake | R&D Precision

 

[majohnson2]

There are brakes that are also used with cans. Talk with the guys at Mile High, I look at them when I pick up my AI, but can't remember the mfg name.

Like the other post I use a APA LFB on my 6.5CM, that combined with the weight has reduced the recoil to almost nothing.

 

[soter1]

I've been thinking about getting a badger mini FTE brake for my 6.5cm but am not sure on which size to get. Would the brake already opened up for .30 suffice or would it be too open for my 6.5mm bullets? Or should i get the .22 brake and have it opened up to fit the 6.5 bullets better?

The barrel is already threaded with a thread protector, since someday, i plan on putting a can on it but they'll be awhile yet. So I'm looking at brakes that are removable.

My google FU is failing me this morning.....

Go with a 30 cal break. It's a no-brainer if you want to upgrade to a can in the future.

 

[Barney88PDC]

Order a 6.5mm one of these. They come with a shim kit for timing and they work GREAT. Go look at the thread from the PRS equipment. There is a reason why this brake is used most.

Recoil Reduction / Muzzle Brakes

 

[EricM40]

We have built rifles with both the APA and Badger brake. The APA is very effective and looks good to. The badger doesn't even come close

 

[Alpine Gunworks]

I would stay away from top ported brakes. The ports should stay symmetrical (in my opinion) unless you want to subject your barrel to un-balanced forces that could cause creep and fatique issues, which might shorten your barrel life.

 

[coach4christ]

I'm getting one of the sure fires for mine. When I get my suppressor in, it works with the brake.

 

[Barney88PDC]

I would stay away from top ported brakes. The ports should stay symmetrical (in my opinion) unless you want to subject your barrel to un-balanced forces that could cause creep and fatique issues, which might shorten your barrel life.

Not trying to start a flame war but could you expound on this. Always willing to learn something new.

 

[Cascade_Sherpa]

I have a Defensive Edge 3 port brake on my 6.5 creedmoor and have been very pleased with the way it shoots, looks, and sounds. Its also very easy to clean, I was skeptical at first because its essentially a hunting rifle and the creedmoor is a light recoil round, but I would definitely go with another on a build.

 

[Bubb]

Best 65$ you can spend muzzlebrakesandmore.com

 

[bkw1911]

back to the original question about the mini fte, its an amazing brake. I use the 30cal on my 6.5 creed. You might benefit a little from boring one up but it works pretty well as a 30. You do have to have you barrel cut for this brake though or it wont fit flush. Its a very easy brake to take on and off and time yourself especially if you will switch between a brake and a can.

 

[bornhunter04]

back to the original question about the mini fte, its an amazing brake. I use the 30cal on my 6.5 creed. You might benefit a little from boring one up but it works pretty well as a 30. You do have to have you barrel cut for this brake though or it wont fit flush. Its a very easy brake to take on and off and time yourself especially if you will switch between a brake and a can.

Thanks, that's the answer i was looking for.

 

[Alpine Gunworks]

Not trying to start a flame war but could you expound on this. Always willing to learn something new.

Yeah no worries its interesting stuff and I enjoy discussing it. Not saying this is going to affect accuracy or shorten barrel life, because I have seen Holland breaks and muscle breaks shoot very well on my rifles, but I have seen parts fail in my career that an engineer had studied and calculated the stresses on where the material never did yield but due creep and fatique the part ultimately failed. With thermal and pressure loads it gets into complicated non-linear stuff that personally I would not like to experiment with on my dime. I can see my hits just fine with a symmetrical brake so unless I'm using a short barrel specialty handgun or something I'll just stick to symmetrical brakes. Here is a video that shows slow motion deformations in a barrel with a asymmetrical brake. The other thing to keep in mind is your action is being clamped to your chassis or stock with about 3000 pounds of clamping force by the action screws and most rifles center of gravity is right where the barrel comes out of the action (if the rifle is balanced well). This translates to the bending moment starting right in your throat area.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UOJzcLxGKc&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Fatigue (material) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Creep (deformation) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[Deadshot2]

I would stay away from top ported brakes. The ports should stay symmetrical (in my opinion) unless you want to subject your barrel to un-balanced forces that could cause creep and fatique issues, which might shorten your barrel life.

Yeah no worries its interesting stuff and I enjoy discussing it. Not saying this is going to affect accuracy or shorten barrel life, because I have seen Holland breaks and muscle breaks shoot very well on my rifles, but I have seen parts fail in my career that an engineer had studied and calculated the stresses on where the material never did yield but due creep and fatique the part ultimately failed. With thermal and pressure loads it gets into complicated non-linear stuff that personally I would not like to experiment with on my dime. I can see my hits just fine with a symmetrical brake so unless I'm using a short barrel specialty handgun or something I'll just stick to symmetrical brakes. Here is a video that shows slow motion deformations in a barrel with a asymmetrical brake. The other thing to keep in mind is your action is being clamped to your chassis or stock with about 3000 pounds of clamping force by the action screws and most rifles center of gravity is right where the barrel comes out of the action (if the rifle is balanced well). This translates to the bending moment starting right in your throat area.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UOJzcLxGKc&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Fatigue (material) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Creep (deformation) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

"Engineering" has it's flaws. If they were always right then there would be no way that a bumblebee would fly. It's very shape defies all that's holy among aeronautical engineers.

Yes, barrels flex. Now that we have that out of the way, just how far do they have to flex to exceed the modulus of elasticity for the barrel metal?

I have a "top ported brake" and I'm not sure how much force you think that 20 little .070" holes will be actually imparting on the barrel? In reality it's just enough to keep the muzzle from jumping enough to let the target leave the scope field of view.

I'd be more worried that the barrel will fail from repeated firings and the radial expansion that occurs. Even that however is insufficient to cause the issues you stated a concern over.

One think I found with the muzzle brake I added, that extra weight on the front, and perhaps the down forces from the top ports, has had the same effect as a barrel tuner. I no longer have narrow accuracy nodes with my load workups, they are in many cases as much as a "full grain" wide.

 

[E. Bryant]

... and that's too much pseudo-engineering for me to even bother entering the discussion.

 

[axeltow]

I also have a mini fte on my gap barreled, crescent customs bedded 65c. I can watch hits at 100. Good enough for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[HuntnPack]

take a look at a 3 port slabbed Muscle brake. Closest port set at 90deg,keeping blast away from shooter, then next 2 ports angle rearward.the gases from these get caught up in the wash of the first port. Kind of a larger profile brake with long slots giving good surface area for gases to push against to aid in recoil reduction. Gonna try one on my 6.5x284.

 

[Alpine Gunworks]

I have a muscle break and really like it. I'm not saying that its bad for barrel life or what not, but I'll just stick to symmetrical brakes from now on. There was another video that did this test and slowed down the frames per second, then added reference lines showing the centerline of the bore. Can't find that video and can't quite recall where I saw it. Granted it was a sporter barrel but the deflections were larger than I suspected and it was surprising.