I've searched and read. I've tried other websites and I don't believe I've found a definitive answer. The first question is does Break Free (new formulation) have Teflon as an ingredient? The second question is whether use in the barrel as a corrosion inhibitor harms accuracy? I have used both the old and new formulas in barrels and it's yielded good protection. I hadn't noted any accuracy deterioration but my standard was an inch. Now that I've been dragged into the depths of SH my standard is half that. I haven't used BF for several years but would like to this year when most of the rifles will be down for the winter. Your guidance will be appreciated, I think.
- Thread starter Quarter Horse
- Start date
These are the things I simply do not worry about. If "teflon" worries you so much (and I am clueless as to why it would), scrub the bore with brake cleaner before you leave home.
Proneshooter,
I've read posts that state AMU doesn't use it because it degrades accuracy, if you use it you'll have to spend a half hour with JB bore compound to get rid of it. The other side says just run a patch with #9 and a couple of clean patches and you're GTG. Some say it is guaranteed to produce cold bore fliers. I can't even find out if it actually has teflon in the new formulation.
I've read posts that state AMU doesn't use it because it degrades accuracy, if you use it you'll have to spend a half hour with JB bore compound to get rid of it. The other side says just run a patch with #9 and a couple of clean patches and you're GTG. Some say it is guaranteed to produce cold bore fliers. I can't even find out if it actually has teflon in the new formulation.
I use Kroils because it's a creeping penetrating oil. At.the range I pass a patch with a jag down the barrel after so many round and when storing. It gets deep in the metal if you have a ruff barrel and cleans like a dream in a smooth barrel. If anything, your accuracy will improve.
If you have copper and carbon build up [which actually can smooth out a ruff barrel] and you want to strip the barrel every blue moon, get some Warhog 1134. This stuff works the best on anything in your barrel, muzzle break and Krink suppressor. Make sure you use Kroils after you use Warhog 1134 and don't leave it in your barrel more than 15 minutes.
Not a fan of JB because you are wearing the barrel and definitely not in a smooth custom barrel. No9 won't hurt the barrel but Kroil oil is my preference.
Peace
If you have copper and carbon build up [which actually can smooth out a ruff barrel] and you want to strip the barrel every blue moon, get some Warhog 1134. This stuff works the best on anything in your barrel, muzzle break and Krink suppressor. Make sure you use Kroils after you use Warhog 1134 and don't leave it in your barrel more than 15 minutes.
Not a fan of JB because you are wearing the barrel and definitely not in a smooth custom barrel. No9 won't hurt the barrel but Kroil oil is my preference.
Peace
1. Every rifle is different so I don't see why what AMU uses matters. Gun oil is like after shave, pick what you like, they all perform (to a degree) the same.
2. Damned near every rifle produces a "cold bore shot", and again, something to be factored in, not something to chase around in circles trying to solve (the proverbial holy grail of gunsmithing; consistently producing a rifle that has zero shift on cold bore shots).
3. In a bolt gun; who cares if it has teflon? Semi/full autos? I could see the concern. I just can not in a bolt action rifle.
In my experience gun oils with teflon will give you a flier on the first few shots. I do a lot of coyote hunting and the first shot has to count. Got away from the teflon and have not missed since. LOL.
Regards, Paul
Regards, Paul
Perhaps it would be worth it to you to email BAE Systems and ask them? They own Safariland, which owns Break-Free, and they are certainly the ones who could tell you. I've asked them in the past, and they've answered me. I don't know how long ago the reformulation you allude to is supposed to have taken place, so what they've told me before will not be useful here.
It was awhile ago (the new formula), and I think we sold off Safariland a few months ago, last fall actually (pretty sure it's its own entity now, or owned by another conglomerate).
No more corporate discounts.
(j/k)
Kind of like when we sold off H&K (still kicking myself for not jumping on that employee discount!)
BTW, I am pretty sure both versions had PTFE, just not absolutely certain. I'm still working my way through a gallon jug of the original formula...
No more corporate discounts.
(j/k)Kind of like when we sold off H&K (still kicking myself for not jumping on that employee discount!)
BTW, I am pretty sure both versions had PTFE, just not absolutely certain. I'm still working my way through a gallon jug of the original formula...
Last edited:
The teflon won't bond to the bore. It requires very high heat in order to bond.
It was in the original breakfree and WILL bond to the BCG and interior of the receiver in an AR because it IS subjected to very high heat.
If there is a white sediment in the bottom of the bottle, that is your teflon.
A path wet with ammonia free windcleaner followed by a couple of dry patches will clean out the bore nicely.
It was in the original breakfree and WILL bond to the BCG and interior of the receiver in an AR because it IS subjected to very high heat.
If there is a white sediment in the bottom of the bottle, that is your teflon.
A path wet with ammonia free windcleaner followed by a couple of dry patches will clean out the bore nicely.
Without disputing what you say about where PTFE bonds, I'm a little fuzzy as to how there's _more_ heat in the BCG and receiver than the bbl just forward of the chamber. ?
I don't think he's saying there's more heat in the BCG than just forward of the chamber, just that there is high heat there (due to the hot gas coming back into the BCG via the gas tube...).
I should have been a bit more specific.
They were speaking of running a patch through the bore BEFORE shooting (you should never fire a weapon with oil/lube in the bore) and were concerned the PTFE would bond to the bore from nothing more than application. The PTFE won't bond unless there is an application of high heat.
I'm with Paul, I use ballistol though. Then use an alcohol patch to wipe the oil and a clean patch to dry the alcohol so it doesn't leave any streaks or puddles to evaporate off, and possibly promoting rust. This method has worked very well for me.
Xdeano
Xdeano
tag
Thanks for the clarification.
The last time I picked up a can it still had PTFE listed as an Ingredient. PTFE= Teflon.
How about forgetting about Break Free and using something else? This is too minor an issue to get worked up about.
What about this? When it's time to clean, do it and then shoot a couple and store it dirty. How corrosive is powder and copper?
Copper and steel have different galvanic potentials. Add some moisture and now you have a galvanic cell, which ends up eating away the metal that is higher on the galvanic series.
In the case of steel and copper, steel is higher in the galvanic series so it will waste away due to galvanic corrosion while copper remains unaffected.
Damn you valence electrons! Damn you all to hell!
This is the best info I got from some top world class shooters back in 1997.
After you super clean your bore with something that will remove all copper and other crud use a water soluble car polish like NuFinish car polish.
Sounds crazy...I know, but it works to reduce wear as well as dynamic resistance and prevents burnt powder from laying in wait to scratch the bore with the carbon deposits.
After you super clean your bore with something that will remove all copper and other crud use a water soluble car polish like NuFinish car polish.
Sounds crazy...I know, but it works to reduce wear as well as dynamic resistance and prevents burnt powder from laying in wait to scratch the bore with the carbon deposits.
