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Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

T

Tayous1

Private
Minuteman
Mar 9, 2010
15
0
44
North/South Dakota
Well first let me just tell a little about me and what I’m doing here. I’m a Fed police officer who was told that I’m going to be going to a police sniper school at the end of this summer. I was picked because of my rifle score and military training. My military training is three tours in Iraq from 2003-2005 I was a Marine machine gunner with 1 batt 5th Marines. Never would have thought I would be picked as a sniper in the Marines I was not the best shot but it looks like age has made be a better shooter then I was 10 years ago. I know nothing about being a sniper nothing about scopes! So I’m looking for advice

Rifle that I’m being issued is a Savage bolt gun in 338 lapua not sure the model but I’m guessing it’s one of the models made to be a sniper rifle. The rifle is new and I remember reading a long time ago about breaking in a barrel. Now because of what this weapon’s job is I want to break in this barrel the right way! Not just take it out pop some round off and clean it and say it’s good to go. NO! This is a precision tool and I feel it should be treated as such. I’m so anal about this I’d spend my own money to make sure it’s done right!

So I’d like to know what the best way to break in a barrel is. How many rounds are needed? What do you use to clean the bore? What is the best way to clean the bore? Any advice please I’d like to hear it. The rifles have not come yet but I want to be ready for when they do show up. Thanks!
I’m going to be asking a lot more stuff later on so this is just the start!
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

The best way to break it in, is to shoot it.

A .338LM is a very specialized tool. It should not be relied upon as a primary sniper rifle. It's a supporting tool to be selected for specific missions.

Depending on your level of proficiency you may have some issues attempting to learn to shoot a precision rifle on that system.

For cleaning, get a dewey rod, nylon brush, parker hale jag and some Hoppes #9. There are as many cleaning methods as there are shooters.

First off I would talk to the bosses and tell them you need a .308 as a primary rifle.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

Welcome to the Hide you came to the right place to learn.I agree with LoneWolf as I pretty much allways do lol. A .338 is alot of gun for a primary,and not all your shots will be at a long distance. I would see about going with a .308 in the same platform for a primary. On this topic there are tons of various threads and opinions reference this topic. I would advise calling Savage and asking them if its not in the owners manual. DPMS is one that actually states that you should do so, and gives you the round count / clean instructions in thier manuals. On a .308, for me, not the whole shooting world or the Hide, I buy 100 rnds. I shoot and swab ever round for the first 25 then every 10 rnds. until I hit 50 then every 25 rnds. till 100.Then I clean the gun thoughly but I dont use brass brushes or copper remover as that defeats the whole purpose. I use one patch soaked in rem oil then a dry patch I usually have one of my good friends go with me so that makes it go by quicker also we can switch out.We start at sun up with the gun in a bench so that I am not tired and can zero the rifle after. Now being it a .338 I am not sure since I dont own one yet nor do I have any experience with that caliber.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LoneWolfUSMC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The best way to break it in, is to shoot it. </div></div>

This is what I've found works best for me too.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LoneWolfUSMC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The best way to break it in, is to shoot it.

A .338LM is a very specialized tool. It should not be relied upon as a primary sniper rifle. It's a supporting tool to be selected for specific missions.

Depending on your level of proficiency you may have some issues attempting to learn to shoot a precision rifle on that system.

For cleaning, get a dewey rod, nylon brush, parker hale jag and some Hoppes #9. There are as many cleaning methods as there are shooters.

First off I would talk to the bosses and tell them you need a .308 as a primary rifle. </div></div>
Its funny sounds like you have done this before, lol
To the OP take his advice for it is worth more than you could ever know. We are all waiting to hear you reinsure us that you do indeed have a .308 you have been working with? If not I wouldn't even waste a round through the .338 until the .308 has been embedded into your framework. You do have a mil-dot master right? Data Books?
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

Learning on a .338 Lapua is quite a feat. Zebra's suggestion on cleaning mirrors mine but I use butches bore shine or shooters choice. it takes a lot of money to feed that beast and would definately look into a .308 for training purposes atleast. I think you would be better served having it as your primary as well.

congrats
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

I will chime in and say that I have pretty extensive experience in bbl break in/not breaking in as I worked for a gunsmith and performed many experiments with bbl break in. Fact is....you can't take ONE particular bbl and break it in AND just shoot it with NO break in (one or the other) and ever be able to know if there was a difference in accuracy or not. The only "break in" that has proven to benefit a FACTORY BBL is when you fire-lap a bbl. You shoot coated bullets which Lap/smooth the inside of the bbl which will help reduce copper fouling. NO PROOF it shot any more accurately. If you have it in your mind that doing some kind of "break in" is the only way to go, then by all means do it.

Remember one thing...when shooting a 338 Lapua, bbl life is not very good, so shooting too many rounds to "break in" a bbl will most likely hurt the bbl from throat erosion more than you will benefit.

Best of Luck!
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

Just got my new GAP. Shot 40 rounds through it, got excellent groups. Will clean it later. I'm an engineer, I find the whole cleaning thing laughable. The steel barrel is not going to somehow be "seasoned" by such cleaning. Ridiculous.

Also, when I bought a muzzeloader I was told time and time again that I needed to "season" the barrel using this crap called "bore butter". What a joke, at least for the STAINLESS barrel on my .50 muzzleloader from TC. I ignored all my buddies who said to use it. I used normal water-based cleaning supplies (for black powder), and I washed gun in sink too, ran water down barrel. I've won the muzzleloader shoot at my club 2 years in a row with that rifle, no "seasoning" no "break-in", and I was it with water and dry it and put away till next year.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

From what I read up, custom barrels do not need any break in as rhey are lapped by the manufacturer and are good to go. I did read that many factory barrels need to be broken in. When I shot my Remington 5R for the first time, i was carefully checking for copper fouling. I was planning to break it in, however I never noticed any copper fouling at all. So all I did was shoot it the first day to sight my scope in. While trying for some groups, the rifle shot sub moa with some 175 PPU .308 loads I bought in bulk. I new that the gun can shoot better, I just needed A LOT more practice. When I got home I just cleaned the carbon out with some Mpro7 and that was it. Until i see copper fouling in the barrel, i don't ever plan to clean further than a few patches for just the carbon.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

I would have picked a 308 win but the guy who set up for me and him to go to the sniper school picked the 338. He was in the army during Iraq and was somewhat of a sniper. I thought overkill but when he told me the rifles had been ordered!

I thought it was a DM school so I had my LT looking around to see if we could get Gov M-14 strip them down rebarrel them. Yet even if I did know I would have still said 308 win. Ammo cost fuc# just saw $53 for 20 FMJ!!
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

The absolute best way to brake in your barrel is to strictly follow these guidelines.

Step 1-Run one wet patch thru gun to clean bore.
Step 2-Run one Dry patch thru gun to clean bore.
Step 3-Shoot at least 50 rounds.
Step 4-Shoot at least 50 more rounds.
Step 5-Shoot at least 50 more rounds.
ETC


Disclaimer-Round count can vary!!!
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LittleViktor</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just got my new GAP. Shot 40 rounds through it, got excellent groups. Will clean it later. I'm an engineer, I find the whole cleaning thing laughable. The steel barrel is not going to somehow be "seasoned" by such cleaning. Ridiculous.

</div></div>

Ive got a new build that should be done in the next 3-4 weeks and this is the approach Im taking. I cant see how todays modern hand lapped barrels benefit from the process.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tayous1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would have picked a 308 win but the guy who set up for me and him to go to the sniper school picked the 338. He was in the army during Iraq and was somewhat of a sniper. I thought overkill but when he told me the rifles had been ordered!

I thought it was a DM school so I had my LT looking around to see if we could get Gov M-14 strip them down rebarrel them. Yet even if I did know I would have still said 308 win. Ammo cost fuc# just saw $53 for 20 FMJ!! </div></div>

Considering the average law enforcement sniper style shot is taken from around 100 yards......it would seem a .338 is a bit overboard.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

I would venture to say the average shot is closer to 50 yards and IMHO I think the program at your dept. should be led by a more qualified person.

Most departments use 20" or shorter barreled tactical set ups for reasons too numerous to begin to discuss here. What is the reasoning behind the choice of .338 lapua and such a big rifle?
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hi Speed</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would venture to say the average shot is closer to 50 yards and IMHO I think the program at your dept. should be led by a more qualified person.

Most departments use 20" or shorter barreled tactical set ups for reasons too numerous to begin to discuss here. What is the reasoning behind the choice of .338 lapua and such a big rifle? </div></div>

Really I don't know! Asked him and he said "It's better to have it and not need it then to not have it and need it."
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

Seems like a primary in .308 and a secondary in .300WM would make more sense in a police sniper type roll. The 338 is a big boy and is really best for the long shots, not taking out a BG who has a hostage in an urban setting at 50-100yds.

That is just my 0.02.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

The concept of police snipers using a 338LM fascinates me. Talk about overpenetration!
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

It's not like the OP picked the rifle, and I doubt he'll be able to enact change before the class he's worried about.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

Oh, break-in...

Shoot one, clean/inspect for copper.
Little/none? Done!
Quite a bit? Start over.
Continue until you've fired a max of 20. If it's still coppering up, hust shoit it. It'll stop at some point.

My Savage 308 was accurate from the beginning, but didn't stop coppering until 500-750 rounds.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

I have a Larue obr that Ive cleaned twice (boresnake) and an AIAX in .260 that I followed the shooy once clean once until the bluing on the patch was non-existant. Both shoot crazy good. I dont see myself breaking anything in again until otherwise educated differently then what I currently understand combined with todays amazing barrels.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

Chamber a round, fire. Repeat as long or as much as you want to
smile.gif
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

tayous1,


don't worry much about break in on that Savage... Savage machine laps their barrels, they're not as good as a top of the line barrel, but they don't suck either... clean the rifle when it comes in, lube it, and shoot it every chance you get.

as for the 338LM mag choice, I understand it wasn't your choice, but I personally couldn't be in a program ran by someone that retarded. YMMV
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

Just a few days ago I had asked Savage about barrel lapping.

A gun store employee (Can always be trusted!) said that I should lap the barrel in my new Savage.

Being curious, I called Savage and asked them directly. "Do you lap your barrels, and should I as instructed?"

The man told me that NO, Savage does -not- lap their barrels. And added that if I lap mine, it will break warranty.

Edited to add: He also said to follow the barrel break-in instructions posted directly on their website.

To recap: No, Savage does not lap their barrels. And yes, you should (According to Savage!) Follow their break in procedure. I did not.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

Just a little off topic here:

If you are as you state and your department is seriously buying two .338 LM rifles as primary rifles, I would tell them no thanks.

The gold standard .308 with a 168 grain match bullet at 2650 fps is somewhat overpowered for most LE engagements. It is an excellent, accurate round but over penetration is an issue with this round.
Now, imagine a 250 grain bullet at 2800 fps. It is nothing more than a lawsuit waiting to happen.

Also consider cost, the average 1 week police sniper class is 400 rounds, that will seriously eat into your barrel life and will be very hard to qualify with at the end of the week after you have developed a flinch.

For some reason, your department has decided to listen to a wanna be.

I foresee bad things here.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

I would be more worried about lawsuits than the condition of your barrel. I would opt out of this ASAP.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tayous1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Really I don't know! Asked him and he said "It's better to have it and not need it then to not have it and need it." </div></div>

If you want to send me a PM with your contact information I would be happy to explain to you or anyone else in your chain of command why they are about to screw you over in a big way.

I am current LE, former Military Sniper and a certified LE Precision Rifle Instructor. I have a bit of training and expereince with many different Sniper Weapon Systems.

This is an instance where it is most certainly not better to "have it and not need it".

There IS a role for a .338LM in LE Sniping....as a primary rifle is not it.

 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

Thanks for the help everyone! LoneWolfUSMC sent you a PM. If anyone else cans send me reports or anything that could help me show my brass that this caliber would not be a wise buy please send it to me!

Also can anyone tell me what would be a good rifle to get in 308win? Been looking at the Savage 10 FP-SR 22" also been looking at a few of the FN SPR A1 also Remington 700. This might end up being an out of pocket rifle sure I can talk them into letting me bring it to the school when I show them the cost of 1,000 rds of 338 vs 308. Also it would be nice to have my own rifle and maybe one day build one. Thanks again guys
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hi Speed</div><div class="ubbcode-body">All of the rifles you mentioned are used by many dept's. </div></div>

So there is not one that is better then the other?
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JoeW</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just a few days ago I had asked Savage about barrel lapping.

A gun store employee (Can always be trusted!) said that I should lap the barrel in my new Savage.

Being curious, I called Savage and asked them directly. "Do you lap your barrels, and should I as instructed?"

The man told me that NO, Savage does -not- lap their barrels. And added that if I lap mine, it will break warranty.

Edited to add: He also said to follow the barrel break-in instructions posted directly on their website.

To recap: No, Savage does not lap their barrels. And yes, you should (According to Savage!) Follow their break in procedure. I did not.</div></div>

so the machine that does it doesn't exist?... yeah, go by what some moron on the phone said
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tayous1</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hi Speed</div><div class="ubbcode-body">All of the rifles you mentioned are used by many dept's. </div></div>

So there is not one that is better then the other? </div></div>

That is a ridiculously loaded question. Remington enthusiasts will tell you Remingtons are the best, Savage guys will say Savages are best etc etc etc.

Fact of the matter is any of them will fill the role just fine
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hi Speed</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ford or Chevy? Dept's typically opt for the lowest bidder. </div></div>

So there all about the same! Thanks I'm guessing this rifle will be out of my pocket so what I can get the best deal on will be top!
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

I was in an NRA "precision rifle" class recently with 18 LEO's and 18 had .308's two .223's. Is the 338 standard in your neck of the woods?

I remember reading an article by Obermeyer rifle barrels that was pretty arduous. Here's what I "think" I remember.

Shoot 1 and clean, repeat 5 times. (use copper and powder solvent separately)

Shoot 3 and clean, repeat till round count is 20 or so.

After that there's little to be gained by further conditioning.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tayous1</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hi Speed</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ford or Chevy? Dept's typically opt for the lowest bidder. </div></div>

So there all about the same! Thanks I'm guessing this rifle will be out of my pocket so what I can get the best deal on will be top! </div></div>

There are a lot of good rifles out there. A couple of key considerations:

Do you want or need a threaded barrel, so you can add a suppressor?

Barrel length? For your purposes, an 18-22" barrel is probably ideal, I would think.

Stock? It's cheaper to buy a new rifle that comes with a quality McMillan stock than to buy a rifle and add the stock later.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

I had a long visit with Mark Chanlynn* (he is making me 2 barrels) about his recommended break-in procedure. He suggests:

1) Run a patch with Hoppes #9 prior to the shot.
2) Run a dry patch to clean out Hoppes #9
3) Fire 1 shot
4) Swab with Sweets on a nylon brush and let it sit for 30 min.
5) Clean out the Sweets with a dry patch...look for blue.
loop back to step 1) until step 5) is no longer blue

Done

This is different than my normal procedure and I questioned him about the potential problems of pitting with Sweets and letting it sit that long. He said he has let it sit for days with no problems...other than don't mix it with Shooters Choice...that can cause a reaction.

* if you don't know who he is, find out before you blindly comment...
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tayous1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks for the help everyone! LoneWolfUSMC sent you a PM. If anyone else cans send me reports or anything that could help me show my brass that this caliber would not be a wise buy please send it to me!

Also can anyone tell me what would be a good rifle to get in 308win? Been looking at the Savage 10 FP-SR 22" also been looking at a few of the FN SPR A1 also Remington 700. This might end up being an out of pocket rifle sure I can talk them into letting me bring it to the school when I show them the cost of 1,000 rds of 338 vs 308. Also it would be nice to have my own rifle and maybe one day build one. Thanks again guys </div></div>

I have never run into this issue before, so I don't have anything pre-printed. I am working on a memo that you can send up your chain.

For recommendations, I suggest the Remington 700P or 700LTR in .308. This is a proven rifle that has been used in just about every level of government service. Optics are going to be based on your budget and your specific role. As a basic scope to get you started, take a look at the Bushnell Elite Tactical 3-12x44 with illuminated Mildot (ET3124F). Mount it up with a Seekins Precision or Badger Ordnance 20 MOA rail and 30mm rings. Add a Harris BRM-S bipod and a Tactical Intervention or TAB sling and you will have a professional level package that will support your skill level throughout your Sniper School and be durable enough to survive the life working rifles lead.

If you can spend up to $2K on optics I can give you much better recommendations, but I think the Bushnell is about as inexpensive as I would go and still be able to rely on it to take a shot.

I do not have anything against Savage or FN Rifles. I have seen some failures on Savage LE Rifles in some really bad training conditions. None of the Remingtons present (including my personal rifle) had any issues. I just don't have enough experience with the FN Rifles to say anything one way or another.

Link to the Bushnell (ET3124F) Scope:
http://swfa.com/Bushnell-3-12x44-Elite-Tactical-30mm-Rifle-Scope-P48268.aspx

Be careful here. There is a lot of great advice to be had from knowledgeable people. However there are also a lot of guys who just do not grasp the difference between range rifles and working rifles. What you need for competitions is not necessarily the best choice for the job. None of them will ever be called to testify after a bad shot on the range. You will have to be able to justify your equipment selection not only to your bosses, but to a court of law.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

Here is my .02. Barrel break in will not fix defects in a bbl from a factory. Barrel break in will not make a bad bbl miraculaously shoot better. A bbl should shoot well initially until it becomes copper fouled. At that point the copper needs to be removed. After the copper is removed the bbl should shoot good again. The desired result from your rifle is to make consistant cold bore shots. If you shoot the rifle and it shoots well, leave it alone until it doesn't shoot well. I think bbl break in is trying to fix something that isn't broken or can't be fixed anyways.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

It seem to me that a Law Enforcement or Military Sniper's rifle should not only be accurate but must be accurate on the first shot. That's the only one you get in most LE situations and many Military situations. The reason I bring this up is because I've personally only owned 2 rifles out of the many I've owned that will put the first shot exactly where I aimed it... Every time. For some reason most rifles I've come across need to be a little fouled or warmed up before they perform their best. I know... Many will say its just that I need to be warmed up... Not the rifle. But I've had occasion to be shooting one rifle until I see improvement and then take out another cold rifle and have it not group well right away. Conversely, I've taken a rifle out of the case cold and had my very first shot be dead center. That was one of the 2 I spoke of.
I think you need to pick your rifle carefully and maybe even try a few out to see which one you are most comfortable with making that FIRST shot with. My $0.02...FWIW.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: oneshot onekill</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For some reason most rifles I've come across need to be a little fouled or warmed up before they perform their best.</div></div>

MOST rifles will need to be fouled to print their cold bore with their followup.

This is why many professional Snipers have now gone to the practice of storing their rifle fouled.

Even my Accuracy International AE MkII will have a different cold/clean bore impact versus cold/fouled bore.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LoneWolfUSMC</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tayous1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks for the help everyone! LoneWolfUSMC sent you a PM. If anyone else cans send me reports or anything that could help me show my brass that this caliber would not be a wise buy please send it to me!

Also can anyone tell me what would be a good rifle to get in 308win? Been looking at the Savage 10 FP-SR 22" also been looking at a few of the FN SPR A1 also Remington 700. This might end up being an out of pocket rifle sure I can talk them into letting me bring it to the school when I show them the cost of 1,000 rds of 338 vs 308. Also it would be nice to have my own rifle and maybe one day build one. Thanks again guys </div></div>

I have never run into this issue before, so I don't have anything pre-printed. I am working on a memo that you can send up your chain.

For recommendations, I suggest the Remington 700P or 700LTR in .308. This is a proven rifle that has been used in just about every level of government service. Optics are going to be based on your budget and your specific role. As a basic scope to get you started, take a look at the Bushnell Elite Tactical 3-12x44 with illuminated Mildot (ET3124F). Mount it up with a Seekins Precision or Badger Ordnance 20 MOA rail and 30mm rings. Add a Harris BRM-S bipod and a Tactical Intervention or TAB sling and you will have a professional level package that will support your skill level throughout your Sniper School and be durable enough to survive the life working rifles lead.

If you can spend up to $2K on optics I can give you much better recommendations, but I think the Bushnell is about as inexpensive as I would go and still be able to rely on it to take a shot.

I do not have anything against Savage or FN Rifles. I have seen some failures on Savage LE Rifles in some really bad training conditions. None of the Remingtons present (including my personal rifle) had any issues. I just don't have enough experience with the FN Rifles to say anything one way or another.

Link to the Bushnell (ET3124F) Scope:
http://swfa.com/Bushnell-3-12x44-Elite-Tactical-30mm-Rifle-Scope-P48268.aspx

Be careful here. There is a lot of great advice to be had from knowledgeable people. However there are also a lot of guys who just do not grasp the difference between range rifles and working rifles. What you need for competitions is not necessarily the best choice for the job. None of them will ever be called to testify after a bad shot on the range. You will have to be able to justify your equipment selection not only to your bosses, but to a court of law. </div></div>

Thanks as long as I can place it as a Memo it's all good! I'm going to talk to the guy who sent in the order and see what his idea was in buying this rifle and caliber. Don't want to lose the only Non-native friend I have on the department.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

I believe breaking in a barrel is a waste of time. Through the years of having rifles built and rebarreled i really have to say i see no advantage in accuracy. I will clean a barrel out good when i first get it and trying different loads. I will say that out of the different manufactors barrels i have used the rule of thumb i have seen is after 1 to 3 shots after a clean cold bore they seem to settle down group better. I do not shoot or comepete in very long range shooting so it may make a difference to some who do. I would think out to several hundred yards i don't see it an issue. The end result is to do what you feel is right.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

I think it would be pretty interesting to have 10 identical brand new factory (non-custom) rifles and perform a test with them using identical ammo. On five of the rifles, you break in the barrels the "by the book" way, i.e. one shot, swab, repeat x?, 5 shots, swab, 10 shots, swab, etc. for say, 100 rounds. With the other five rifles shoot 50 rounds, clean, shoot 50 more, clean, etc. Then, after each rifle group has say, 300 or so rounds through them all, put them on a solid rest and see which one group throws better groups. The "broken in" group, or the "bought and shot" group?

This has probably already been done, as I'm a noob for sure, and if so I'd love to see it. That would be a pretty good bit of propaganda for whichever side of the barrel break in fence you're on. As for me, I'm more or less inclined to the "buy and shoot" group, but I'm a little obsessed with cleaning when I do. haha
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lofty</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tayous1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would have picked a 308 win but the guy who set up for me and him to go to the sniper school picked the 338. He was in the army during Iraq and was somewhat of a sniper. I thought overkill but when he told me the rifles had been ordered!

I thought it was a DM school so I had my LT looking around to see if we could get Gov M-14 strip them down rebarrel them. Yet even if I did know I would have still said 308 win. Ammo cost fuc# just saw $53 for 20 FMJ!! </div></div>

Considering the average law enforcement sniper style shot is taken from around 100 yards......it would seem a .338 is a bit overboard. </div></div>


This is true, however, when I was in Law Enf. down south, there were situations (albeit rare) where there was open land and the need for something more than a 308. Penetration & Flat trajectory were needed.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kywndg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think it would be pretty interesting to have 10 identical brand new factory (non-custom) rifles and perform a test with them using identical ammo. On five of the rifles, you break in the barrels the "by the book" way, i.e. one shot, swab, repeat x?, 5 shots, swab, 10 shots, swab, etc. for say, 100 rounds. With the other five rifles shoot 50 rounds, clean, shoot 50 more, clean, etc. Then, after each rifle group has say, 300 or so rounds through them all, put them on a solid rest and see which one group throws better groups. The "broken in" group, or the "bought and shot" group?

This has probably already been done, as I'm a noob for sure, and if so I'd love to see it. That would be a pretty good bit of propaganda for whichever side of the barrel break in fence you're on. As for me, I'm more or less inclined to the "buy and shoot" group, but I'm a little obsessed with cleaning when I do. haha </div></div>

I have performed similar testing when working for a gunsmith and no 2 factory bbls are exactly the same so it is 100% impossible to prove whether "bbl break in" improves/decreases accuracy. It MAY help with copper fouling in a low buck Factory bbl, but a High end bbl should be lapped pretty darn smooth, so copper fouling shouldn't be much of an issue.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: chrisj</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lofty</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tayous1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would have picked a 308 win but the guy who set up for me and him to go to the sniper school picked the 338. He was in the army during Iraq and was somewhat of a sniper. I thought overkill but when he told me the rifles had been ordered!

I thought it was a DM school so I had my LT looking around to see if we could get Gov M-14 strip them down rebarrel them. Yet even if I did know I would have still said 308 win. Ammo cost fuc# just saw $53 for 20 FMJ!! </div></div>

Considering the average law enforcement sniper style shot is taken from around 100 yards......it would seem a .338 is a bit overboard. </div></div>


This is true, however, when I was in Law Enf. down south, there were situations (albeit rare) where there was open land and the need for something more than a 308. Penetration & Flat trajectory were needed. </div></div>
Then it is time for a specialty rifle.
The OP's department is preparing to issue .338 LM as a primary rifle
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

For cleaning, Hoppe's #9 works well, but I like Strike-Hold CLP. It seems to get a bit more fouling out.
 
Re: Breaking in a new barrel. Help me do it right!

I'm with you guys on this, shooting shots just to foul the barrel and then to turn around and clean it seems to me like a waste of money and time.
 
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