Budget .223 Build!

[wk05]

Hi guys! I am looking to build up a .223 REM that I have in my inventory, into a better 300-500 yard steel/fun gun! Anyways, here is what I'm thinking, throw your suggestions out there.

What I have right now is a Remington 700 26" Varmint 1 in 12" Twist .223 with an SWFA SS 10X42 MIL/MIL

Here is what I am thinking - Choate Tactical (What color should I duracoat or have hydropdipped?), Timney 517 Trigger, EGW 20 MOA Base, KRG Bolt Lift.

I am currently reloading and am trying to get my hands on some Hornady 53gr V-MAX .224" Bullets. If you could help me out there as well, I would appreciate it.

I would definitely consider a McMillan / Manners; however, would the difference in accuracy even be noticeable on the rig that I'm building? Especially considering it's not for competition? If you have a used SA McMillan/Manners, shoot me a PM anyways!
Do you think cutting down the barrel to 18" would cause much of a difference in accuracy and drop out at 300-500 yards?

Any help would be great, as would your suggestions!

Thanks!

 

[rrflyer]

Could probably just swap the trigger and start shooting the 52smk and be done.

That looks like an ADL so you'd need bottom metal if you swapped stocks

 

[wk05]

I actually just loaded 100 rounds of 52gr SMKs behind 26.9gr of H335 (Accuracy Load in my Manual). The Timney is definitely going in first and for sure as the stock trigger is garbage! The plus side of the Choate Tactical (MCM A5 Replica) is that I can get it in an ADL/BDL/M5BDM inlet, and the stocky's deal on the M5 for .223 is VERY tempting! May go ahead and pick one up.

 

[lash]

I have an extra Rem BDL Bottom metal if you need for a budget build. Just PM me if interested.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

If you're going 300 and beyond, the 52/53gr bullets may not be an optimal choice, but the varmint twist or 1:14" or 1:12" will limit bullet weights to probably under 60gr. The Sierra GameKing 55gr FMJBT is actually a pretty respectable/slickery bullet and may buy you some accuracy in the 300-500yd regime. I like it with Varget and suggest something around 25gr., and maybe a tad more as a load. Charge weight variances can be more demanding with smaller case capacities, like the .223; but I also believe that a properly developed load allows more leeway in this respect.

If the trigger is 6lb, I would try adjusting it lower first. If that's doesn't provide adequate relief, a replacement trigger is called for. If the rifle is to be used in the field, I would not suggest going to a lighter than 3lb pull weight. An accomplished marksman can shoot the gun to its potential with such a trigger.

Before replacing the stock, I'd bed it, and possibly also experiment with barrel channel pads out at the forward end of the channel. My Rem 700 VLS .223 responded poorly when I removed the factory designed pad, and only picked back up shooting tight after I re-established it, despite extensive load testing.

Every barrel experiences some slow, progressive crown degradation from gas cutting. It would pay to have a rifle's crown professionally checked and addressed about once every 1000rd.

Optics in the 10X range are clearly adequate for 300-500yd. Mirage is an issue, and lower powers can minimize its effect. My LR guns (.260/.280) all use 6-24x42 scopes. They can be dialed up/down to accommodate mirage, and I find that the higher powers are actually more useful as the distances become smaller, since mirage has less effect closer to the shooter. There is nothing wrong with more magnification, it helps the POA be better refined, as long and as much as the mirage allows.

Barrel mirage is a significant issue when performing sustained strings of fire. Look into the subjects of mirage bands and/or mirage tubes. Also, manage barrel heat consciously and conservatively, there's more than accuracy at stake here, there's also barrel life involved. Know when to slow down and when to stop. I have found generally that once I cannot lay the back of my hand against the barrel for an indefinite time, my accuracy is degrading; and when I can smell the barrel's heat, my bore's life is being significantly threatened. Sometimes there's no alternative, but be prepared to take a loss and conserve your equipment unless it's life and death necessary. There will be other comps. You may even find some relief from load development, it is possible to find more than one accuracy node for a given bullet and barrel, and unless there are truly compelling reasons otherwise, the lower the node, the better.

Take some care to optimize your LOP and cheek rest/cheekweld height, it makes a significant and positive difference when it's ideal because it minimizes fatigue. Fatigue is the silent foe of the precision shooter.

Greg

 

[lash]

Greg, as is usual, your input is good advice and appreciated. I also recently completed a budget .223 build using the exact same platform as the OP. Difference is that I need to get a better scope on mine. That SWFA 10x42 mil/mil looks just right to me.

I did end up replacing my factory stock, as I could not get any consistency from it (even when considering my personal lack of ability). I do need to adjust the trigger that's on there, as the factory setting is a bit heavy, but I've found I do not need mine to be super light for what I use mine for, just a bit lighter. I'm trying to avoid putting too much into this for now.

wk05, sorry for the minor thread jack, but thought that you might appreciate my similar experience. FWIW, when I did change the stock with a used one I picked up on here, it came with BDL BM. I had to modify the existing magazine box a little to fit in the stock, but it feeds great now. I did not hesitate to modify the mag box since they are readily available online for about $15 if another is ever needed.

My biggest issue now is that it looks like I'm going to have to get into reloading in order to feed this what it needs, an expense I hadn't planned on.

 

[wk05]

Thanks for the help Greg, spot on info! What stock did you place yours with and how's it shooting now lash?

 

[lash]

Thanks for the help Greg, spot on info! What stock did you place yours with and how's it shooting now lash?

I have no idea who made this one, as I bought it used from one of the great guys here on the Hide. Since I was building it for my wife as primarily a bench rifle, the laminate was a nice touch that she likes. Heres a pic:

I haven't figured out how to make them large yet, but you can click on it to make it bigger.

It shoots much better now, but I need to find some ammo with smaller sized bullets, like 40-55 gr, for this 1-12 twist from what I'm told here. The only thing I had was cheap Rem UMC green box stuff, so it seemed I could only get 3-4 in an inch at 100 before I got a flyer. Of course, the jerk at the trigger might have been a part of the problem. Plus, as mentioned, I need to adjust that trigger. It's a bit stiff right now.

I believe that once I try out a few loads and find something it really likes, that it should be a fun little tack driver.

 

[wk05]

The laminate looks good! Trigger and scope base in the mail today! I need to figure out this stock soon!

 

[Big Z]

I'd probly try a full bed + trigger first. Bettin it shines just fine as a 3-500yd plinker without much work, and could easily see losing some barrel.

 

[wk05]

Is a stock like the tuperware SPS even able to be bedded?

 

[Hosted]

I am doing something similar with a Savage (Stevens). I swapped the original stock for a Choate that I found for $100 and am not planning on upgrading it again until I feel it's holding me back. I was able to adjust my crappy trigger down to close to 2 lbs and will probably replace it this summer, but I can live with it for now. For that range, you won't need a 20 moa base. I'd just leave the scope as it is for now and see how it works out. I haven't shot the 53gr Vmax yet but I think you are right and it would be the perfect combo for your 1-12 twist. When they come back in stock I'm definately going to buy a box of them to see how they compare to the 68's I've been shooting at 300 yards. They look very good on paper for their weight.

 

[Tonmarchelli]

Good read.

 

[wk05]

UPDATE: Ordered the Timney 517, Midway Shooting Mat, and a few boxes of various weight Nosler BT Varmegeddon rounds. I went out and shot yesterday with the rifle to see how it did at 100. The rifle was sub-MOA at 100 yards, backpack for a front rest, no rear rest, factory everything else. It was with my 52gr Sierra BT-HP. I could definitely tell that the rifle wouldn't like anything much over 55gr, as the cheap FMJ ammo I loaded wasn't near the accuracy of the 52gr SMK - I was about 1.25-1.5MOA with the cheap ammo, so should be adequate for practice ammo! I also have sourced a pretty good deal on a MCM A5 stock, and may just have to grab it! Out at 400 yards, will I be able to tell a huge/limiting difference in drop/accuracy/stability by cutting the barrel back to 18-20"?

Thanks for all the help so far, this forum is a wealth of information!

 

[korykhunter]

If your looking for a 300-500 yard fun gun go ahead and start shootin. IMO the rifle your starting with is capable of ringing steel out to 500 yards easily even with 40gr bullets. Have fun shootin!!!!!!

 

[wk05]

I'm anxious to get the new trigger to see if it helps my accuracy! I need to shoot at 300 yards to see how I do! The only issue is the lack of a spotting scope!

 

[Big Z]

It's tough to beat an A5 for a dedicated paper/steel gun. But if you wanna experiment with a bed on the factory stock, drill small holes all over the bedding area and proceed.

 

[wk05]

May have to give it a try. Is it possible to do some I letting work with a Dremel to make an M5 DBM with 10 round magazine for the factory stock? I may do that before buying a $500+ stock.

 

[JB02]

May have to give it a try. Is it possible to do some I letting work with a Dremel to make an M5 DBM with 10 round magazine for the factory stock? I may do that before buying a $500+ stock.

It's tricky. How handy are you? A mill is a better tool than a dremel. The better option would be to pay someone to professionally inlet it; lots of gunsmiths do this work.

 

[wk05]

No mill, do have a drill press though.

 

[WheelinShooter]

Put your trigger in it and shoot the piss out of it. When you burn the tube down, worry about a barrel. For now shoot her and have fun!

 

[wk05]

Will do! Hope the trigger gets here before the weekend. More pictures and a range report will be available ASAP. I tried searching but found nothing, is there a thread/article on inletting for/installing a DBM (more specifically the M5, doesn't have to be though)?