Budget Setup For Beginner (Need Advice)

[Kwfranklin88]

You're not shooting yet?

Stock rifles shoot flawlessly, it's not until people start upgrading them do they have issues.

Rem700 will have the most upgrade options. Find one with a threaded barrel and sky's the limit.

I’ve been shooting for 20 years. I’ve never done any long range shooting. I’ve only used duplex reticle optics. I want to learn holdovers and wind adjustments. So I can make first round hits at longer distances.

 

[Kwfranklin88]

I don't know anything about the Ruger Predator.

On Savage, I know that barrel swaps are easy and that is probably the biggest accuracy upgrade you can do on a working rifle, the Accu-trigger is pretty nice so you probably won't be tempted to do more than a spring swap or a bit of shimming.

The biggest complaint I see with Savage rifles is heavy bolt lift. Some people try to fix it with a time and tune job from a good Savage gunsmith or a lift kit or an extended bolt handle. The thing is, it's a budget gun. While a heavy bolt lift might move your rifle off of your aim while you are cycling it and that will slow you down in a match, it's only a problem in a match or maybe trying to get a follow-up shot when hunting and that problem is only costing a second or two.

A Remington 700 isn't a better platform in my opinion, it just has more stuff that you can put on it, it winds up being more expensive and a little bit smoother.

A full custom rifle is a better platform and then using the Remington 700 footprint makes sense so that you can get an improved action with all of the accessories compatible (hopefully).

Also, I think a budget minded full custom is usually going to turn out nicer and cheaper than a cheap Remington 700 with a catalog thrown at it and a blueprint.

A lot of people are happy with a 12FV in a Boyds stock with a decent scope.

In 6.5 Creedmoor, with good ammo, that is usually enough to group at 1,000 yards and it's hard to argue with that.

There might be options that do better for less but so far I haven't seen any that have such an easy and obvious upgrade path.

I have a Savage (not a 12FV) that has a fluted bolt body (for looks), a Glades bolt handle, about $10 of shims and springs in the Accu-trigger, a nice recoil lug and a Pre-fit barrel. It's in a cheap chassis with a folding stock and a $700 scope but the whole budget is around $2,000. If you deduct the scope and the folding stock it's about $1,000 but it has a barrel that's better than what they put in an RPR. That's my version of throwing a catalog at a Savage. I'm going to use it for entry level, low budget ELR. I could have gone cheaper but I got the chassis for detachable magazines and the folding stock so it will fit in a normal sized case.

Ok thanks! I’m going to get a good hunting rifle and use it to try out the long range stuff. If I like it I will build a long range gun. If I don’t then I’ll have a good hunting rifle. I really appreciate the info!

 

[Freddyack]

Good friend of mine has a Ruger Predator in 6mm Creedmoor. Out of the box he consistently hit small steel targets out to 800 yards. The key to his success is superior shooting technique and experience.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

I suggest the Ruger American Rifle Predator 6.5 Grendel.

Unlike most of the other Ruger American offerings, it uses the AR-15 style magazine rather than a proprietary rotary magazine, and these are also available configured for the 6.5 Grendel. That's both a cost savings, and a simple solution to having a bunch of 10rd magazines, with 5rd versions also available for Hunting.

This rifle is on my wish list right up at the top. The Grendel is an improvement on the 223, and has some additional capability as a hunter.

There are several choices for factory ammo.

I handload for a pair of 6.5 Grendel AR's (20" and 24"), and I believe it's probably a great chambering to start handloading with. For AR's I consider it to be one the most efficient chamberings optimized for the AR-15 action.

I am also a big fan of Savages, but for now, this suggestion will do.

The Savage/Cabellas/Bass Pro 12FV has the 26" barrel in .223, .22-250, .308, and 6.5CM. It is also limited with a 4+1rd Blind Magazine.

My understanding is that the Choate Tactical Stock will work with the Savage 10, 11, and 12 actions, but will also need a Savage plastic bottom "metal" and magazines to complete the conversion. This is a guess and it worked well for my 11FV; but that came with the Savage DM. The advertised 3/4" butt extension never arrived with mine, but I did manage to get them from Choate, and used three of them to accommodate my 16.5" personal LOP requirement.

The Savage Varmint Barrel Contour is all I've ever used for comps including 1000yd F Open Class.

I also use BDC compensated reticles.

For the 6.5 Grendel, I'm experimenting with the 308 BDC reticle. On paper, it's within 1" of the 308's drop at 300yd, and 2-3in at 500yd.

I just started this. So far I have only zeroed them at 100yd, and can only test out to 300yd, but the 308 is right bang on for my 308's at 100yd, 200yd, and 300yd. Same thing with the 223 reticle and my 223 rifles. This will simplify LR targeting solutions out to 500yd, and maybe 600yd; and it only requires a LRF to get the aim points.

So far I have six of these scopes on my 223, 6.5G, and 308 rifles.

Three of them are AR's. These days, I prefer AR's; they are much easier to build, and I have three of them with 24" barrels, and two with 20". A barrel change (actually an Upper change) takes only two manual pins and a handful off minutes at most.

I use PSA and AR Stoner components and they are very affordable. Guns and accuracy is like cars and speed. How fast do you want to go? How accurately do you want to shoot?

Greg

 

[hollowoutadime]

If you are shooting a bolt action (where every shot matters), a single stage press is fine. I can load 300-400 rounds in an evening with mine. It's the precision powder measuring that can take time, so multiple dispensers that run simultaneously, speeds it along. If you want good groups, it's not a race to reload.

Also, this sport isn't cheap. If you want good repeatable/predictable results, expect to spend.

 

[Harman117]

Take a look at the Ruger American Hunter rifle. It's called "Hunter" because it utilizes the Magpul Hunter stock, which is a common upgrade path for the Ruger American rifles.

It also has the thickest barrel out of all the Ruger American rifles; with the ability to adjust length of pull and cheek height adjustment via inserts.

It's 2020, ergonomics are very important, you should AT LEAST be trying to look for options that have adjustable L.O.P. / cheek pad height.

Ammo quickly becomes the most expensive component if you actually shoot. You can regularly find good "match" ammo for .308/6.5 Creedmoor around $150-$180 per 200 rounds. So for 2,000 rounds that's $1,500-$1,800 in just ammo.

Reloading is great, but it'll be a while before you see payback on the initial investment.

Optics should be your highest priority. Spend the most you can. Anyone that actually knows what they're doing would put more importance on the optic then the rifle for you intended "first round" hit desires.

Dry firing with a focus on fundamentals is the best "cheap" way to gain experience. Just be mindful not to develop bad habits.