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Budget switch barrel

Z

Z-Loc

Private
Minuteman
Feb 16, 2019
29
1
26
Georgia
#1
Hey, I'm getting ready to start putting together my first bolt rifle build. The issue is I like new things. I like trying as many different calibers, reloading for them all, and seeing how diverse I can get. Unfortunately that's not easy when you're a college student trying to pay rent tuition and a car payment. I'm trying to put together a switch barrel rifle that gives flexibility to grow but let's the cost grow slowly too. At some point I would like to compete, but I currently just don't have the time or the money, and right now I have more use for a rifle that can be used for the range and for hunting. So with weight, budget and goal in mind this is my plan.
Action: Bighorn Origin with 223 and 308 bolt heads
Stock: AG Composites Alpine Hunter
Optic: something in the 2-10 range
Calibers: 6mmbr and 223 for now
Does this seem like a solid plan?Is there anything specific I need to make this an easily swappable rifles? Does anyone know about the return to zero with an ARC barloc system? And what other suggestions do you guys have? Also, since I am not competing now, and I would rather make due with a lighter rifle when a heavy one helps than a heavy rifle when a light one helps, I am trying to stay away from making a 12-14 pound rifle. Ideally below 9-10 pounds with the optic.
 
#3
jsimonh said:
If it was me I'd do just the 6br if you really want a BR. You can load light 6mm bullets for varmint hunting, or heavier ones for deer. I dont see what the 223 gets you other than more expense for the head and barrel.
Click to expand...

This is what I would do.

My perfect one rifle do it all setup would be a barrel in 6BR and a barrel in a 6.5 or 7mm short magnum.

And once I get my 7 SAUM barrel I’ll probably get a 6BR barrel for my Nucleus and just put my 260 barrel on my old savage as a bring along loaner rifle.
 
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#4
jsimonh said:
If it was me I'd do just the 6br if you really want a BR. You can load light 6mm bullets for varmint hunting, or heavier ones for deer. I dont see what the 223 gets you other than more expense for the head and barrel.
Click to expand...
I'm attempting to convert pull off Remington barrels to a barrel nut system. And if that works the barrel will be really cheap. My understanding is that as long as the shoulder is long enough the threading just needs to be extended a little bit. The 223 would just be for more trigger time and a caliber that doesn't require reloading.
 
#5
The Origin takes Savage Small Shank ba
Z-Loc said:
I'm attempting to convert pull off Remington barrels to a barrel nut system. And if that works the barrel will be really cheap. My understanding is that as long as the shoulder is long enough the threading just needs to be extended a little bit. The 223 would just be for more trigger time and a caliber that doesn't require reloading.
Click to expand...

The Origin takes Savage Small Shank thread pattern, not Rem 700, they are Not compatible nor interchangeable. Sorry ?

But if you have a lathe, maybe there is enough material to turn???
 
#7
I recently finished a build kind of like this. I started with an origin action in a MPA comp folder with MPA one piece scope mount and Razor 4.5x27. I had my gunsmith do a 6.5cm and .223 rem barrels from Bartlein. I wanted to try something a bit different. I just him set up the tolerances do I could hand tighten the barrels.
I first saw this done by a shooter I saw on YouTube shooting the Milk Jug Challenge from a mile. The gunsmith for that guys build was Justin Sipp. I originally contacted Justin about my build, but wasn't able to get the project done with him. He was in Utah. Anyway I landed on using a semi local guy that knocked it out of the park. I am so impressed with the outcome. It shoots little groups, and has an impact shift of about an inch between changing out between calibers.
My next project is getting the whole setup to fit in a backpack. It's as much for my own personal desire to see if it works as anything. I do have a nice hard case from MPA that is great, but to me, it's going to be cool to have it all in a pack.
 

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#8
Heyitsclint said:
I recently finished a build kind of like this. I started with an origin action in a MPA comp folder with MPA one piece scope mount and Razor 4.5x27. I had my gunsmith do a 6.5cm and .223 rem barrels from Bartlein. I wanted to try something a bit different. I just him set up the tolerances do I could hand tighten the barrels.
I first saw this done by a shooter I saw on YouTube shooting the Milk Jug Challenge from a mile. The gunsmith for that guys build was Justin Sipp. I originally contacted Justin about my build, but wasn't able to get the project done with him. He was in Utah. Anyway I landed on using a semi local guy that knocked it out of the park. I am so impressed with the outcome. It shoots little groups, and has an impact shift of about an inch between changing out between calibers.
My next project is getting the whole setup to fit in a backpack. It's as much for my own personal desire to see if it works as anything. I do have a nice hard case from MPA that is great, but to me, it's going to be cool to have it all in a pack.
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#10
That's a pretty sweet setup!! And I totally didn't even think of that. For some reason my mind went straight to remage when I was thinking of the r700 footprint. A real Shame considering I was able to pick up a 6br to try out for $40
 
#11
I thought about that for a while but the issue with it was the bolts, I want to be able to run more than one bolt head and I couldn't find any custom bolts. I kinda feel like there would be a huge market for someone to make a Tikka bolt with a removable bolt head. If they did then from what I know you could do everything from a 338 Lapua to a 223 in the same action right?
 
#13
Savage prefits are even easier than buying a factory 700 barrel and converting it to remage. Buy the origin and rock it. Tons of factory savage barrels on Ebay and from northland shooter supply. I'd get the .223 if you're on a budget. I've always found good deals on the bullets and the powder seems to last forever.

Also, I have 2 origins and love them both. Let me know if you have any questions.
 
#15
reubenski said:
I got to ask. Why 6x45?
Click to expand...

Gotta agree. Why?

Once you have the money that "because" is the only reason you need; go for it, but if you're on a tight budget now why chase oddballs?

Z-Loc said:
Does anyone have suggestions for the optic? I have a PST II 5-25 but I'll probably sell it to afford the action.
Click to expand...

Personally, I would recommend keeping the PST unless the magnification range just doesn't work for your hunting needs. With brand new PST's on sale for $700 brand new at certain vendors, the used resale value just isn't there.

IMO: You're better off going with a cheaper action, Savage comes to mind for your intentions, rather than going too cheap on the scope if the budget is that tight.
 
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#16
reubenski said:
@garandman this is an interesting topic. What are your thoughts?
Click to expand...


I'm a little weird on this one.

I can't even stand multipe different AR uppers all going on one lower. I gotta have a lower for every upper. :) But that's just me....

My other concern about switch barrel guns is accuracy. Necessarily, when you change barrels, yer gonna have tolerances that require re-sighting the rifle. I like "grab and go" rifles sighted and ready for service right away. No, I'll never be in combat and likely never use a gun in self defense... especially not a rifle from the gunsafe. Still....

I've seen claims by certain makers that say that's not true. When you change barrels, that optic will still be sighted in. OK... but... well... I can't see it. I certainly am not gonna drop $4K to find out. At least the optic is mated to and sighted in for the upper, in the AR platform.

These are largely my personal preferences. I like the concept of switch barrel.... just the execution seems questionable, to me.

I would suggest to the OP.... buy a rifle that does one thing very, very well. But if he must, Desert Tech is one option.

https://deserttech.com/index.php
 
#17
goosed said:
Personally, I would recommend keeping the PST unless the magnification range just doesn't work for your hunting needs. With brand new PST's on sale for $700 brand new at certain vendors, the used resale value just isn't there.

IMO: You're better off going with a cheaper action, Savage comes to mind for your intentions, rather than going too cheap on the scope if the budget is that tight.
Click to expand...
This.
 
#18
I've had a Savage and just really didn't enjoy the action. The rifle I had was HEAVY, it has their heavy barrel and was in an oryx chassis and even with all that a bipod and a scope the bolt lift was so heavy it moved the reticle a good bit. I'm not sure if that's normal but that's my only experience with savages. And for me it's just too big of an optic. What I'd really love is to do a trade it for a 2-10, but I don't see that happening with my ODT and I can't post on here yet to try. Also I started reloading when I was 17, because someone showed me some wildcat that caught my interest. Since then I've wanted to try one and 6x45 fits the bill. I already reload 223 so I've got plenty of brass, it's not super complex of a wildcat, and it is still an improvement. My favorite factory cartridge is also 243 so there's the commonality of that too. I realize that the cost of barrels and reloading equipment adds up real fast. When I first started reloading I had this misconceived notion of saving money and that is long gone. But I'm looking at this as a long term option. If I were to put it together right now it would probably be a 223 for cost. But then I would like to slowly add on in the coming years.
 
#19
Almost forgot, I've read some reports of ARC's system actually returning to zero well. But I'm skeptical myself. And I had a KRG bravo and liked the design, but didn't like how wobbly the cheek piece was.
 
#25
Lunchbox27 said:
If it returns to zero at 100, why would it be off at distance?
Click to expand...


Uhhh... bcuz tiny deviations matter more at distance (1000 yds) than up close (100 yds) . EVERY machined system in the world absolutely *WILL* have tolerance variations. Every single one. (I already said this above. Didn't think I needed to repeat this in every single post in this thread....but cuz I'm a heckuva guy.... I'm repeating it again here. :) ) Where I said "maybe???" .... think "return to zero-ish" or " return maybe close to an exact zero" or "more or less" or "maybe sometmes but not all the time."

Like I said... I'm willing to be shown a switch barrel system that can consistently return to an exact 1000yd zero every time.

I'm not willing to spend my own money to be the crash test dummy.
 
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#29
reubenski said:
My switch barrel returns to zero better than you can shoot. I know that sounds extremely arrogant but you've already seen it.
Click to expand...


Golf clap. :) If that sounds extremely unimpressed.... then you got exactly my intent. :)


Remember.... You asked my opinion. So I really don't care if you don't like what you asked for.

And yes.... I have already seen your extreme arrogance. Yer nice via IM but an internet tuff guy publicly to impress your homeboys, here. Its very juvenile.
 
#30
garandman said:
Uhhh... bcuz tiny deviations matter more at distance (1000 yds) than up close (100 yds) . EVERY machined system in the world absolutely *WILL* have tolerance variations. Every single one. (I already said this above. Didn't think I needed to repeat this in every single post in this thread....but cuz I'm a heckuva guy.... I'm repeating it again here. :) ) Where I said "maybe???" .... think "return to zero-ish" or " return maybe close to an exact zero" or "more or less" or "maybe sometmes but not all the time."

Like I said... I'm willing to be shown a switch barrel system that can consistently return to an exact 1000yd zero every time.

I'm not willing to spend my own money to be the crash test dummy.
Click to expand...

For years, many have been switching barrels at the range. Yes, a zero check should always be performed, but if you re-zero using the same ammo, your dope will line up every single time.

You don’t have to believe me... but hold onto your thong

 
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#31
Lunchbox27 said:
Yes, a zero check should always be performed, but if you re-zero using the same ammo, your dope will line up every single time.
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I already said. A re-check zero will be necessary. I don't care to do that. Personal preference, like I said. I explained in detail how I want all my guns to be ready to go at all times. I'll spend the money to have two complete guns, and if I can't afford that, I'll have one single gun that is very very good in its single caliber.

And I never ever said your load would cease to function, in that gun.

If you would take the time to read more carefully, we could improve things here alot.
 
#34
I switch barrels on one of my rifles all the time, zero shift is 0.10 mils are less - essentially "grab and go" without checking zeros. They are shouldered barrels mind you.

If your 100 yard zero is not good at 500-1000 yards, well then, you are doing it wrong...
 
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#35
Lunchbox27 said:
For years, many have been switching barrels at the range. Yes, a zero check should always be performed, but if you re-zero using the same ammo, your dope will line up every single time.

You don’t have to believe me... but hold onto your thong

Click to expand...


800 yards? Hardly tacticool. Elmer can't get it up unless it's 1K.
 
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#36
I specifically said TWICE Im willing to be shown a capable switch barrel. Thats NOT acting like any sort of expert

If yer not even gonna bother reading what I repeatedly said... whats the point ?
 
#38
reubenski said:
Here's a 5 Rd group of 6 Creedmoor at 300yds after switching to that barrel from 223.



And here's the photo you posted of your 100yd groups. Tell me I'm wrong and these things I say aren't facts.

Click to expand...


Thats a seating depth test. Not a 5 x 5.

The upper right shows the single seating depth chosen.
 
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#39
reubenski said:
I'm not trying to be a dick, but you literally don't know what you're talking about. Yet you are all over this forum speaking with authority. Do you have a field capable switch barrel?
Click to expand...

All he probably has is a pink daisy red Ryder if anything, judging by how most every picture he has is so grainy/blurry it looks like it’s been lifted from Google images
 
#41
reubenski said:
I'm not trying to be a dick, but you literally don't know what you're talking about. Yet you are all over this forum speaking with authority. Do you have a field capable switch barrel?
Click to expand...
What are the different ways of doing a switch barrel and what do you use? Is it as simple as using a barrel nut? Or are there more things out there that make it easier without unscrewing the action?
 
#42
Z-Loc said:
What are the different ways of doing a switch barrel and what do you use? Is it as simple as using a barrel nut? Or are there more things out there that make it easier without unscrewing the action?
Click to expand...

A shouldered barrel is the least complicated.
You need a barrel vise, an action wrench and the gun and barrels.
No need to remove the scope or anything else. You do need a pinned recoil lug though.

A pinned or tack welded barrel nut is second and the third is the standard barrel nut.
Although, you can save time with a witness mark on the nut and barrel.
 
#44
garandman said:
You are so busy disagreeing with me you're not even listening to what I'm saying.

Switch barrels 10 times. Then see how your group's move in relation to the 10 ring on the target.

Re zeroing is necessary every single time . Maybe not much at a 100 yd but I bet it'll make a significant difference at a 1000 yd. If you want to convince me otherwise, do what I said. Switch barrels 10 times WITHOUT re zeroing and tell me how your group's move in relation to the 10 ring on the target.


Your groups will be the same size, but they will move in relation to the 10 ring on the target.

I would love to see a switch barrel set up that will put the group size in exactly the same position on the target with regard to the 10 ring 10 times in a row, w/ o re zeroing.

Same size groups? Absolutely


Same point on the target in relation to the 10 ring? Show it to me.
Click to expand...

My rifle will do it. So will others.

And you still appear to be confused on the 100 yard and 1000 yard shooting.

We zero at 100 yards and rifles shoot fine at 1000 yards. If they didn't, then we wouldn't zero at 100 yards.
 
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